DIARY 

IN 

TURKISH AND GREEK 
WATERS. 



London : 
and G. A. Spottiswoode, 
New-street- Square. 



Ceo rep W>lf®** MWhlcK 



DIARY 



IN 



TURKISH AND GREEK 



WATERS. 



BY 



THE EIGHT HONOURABLE 

THE EARL OF CARLISLE, 



FIFTH EDITION. 



LONDON: 

LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS. 

1855. 



I'SSS 



Mi' 



PREFACE. 



It will be perceived that I have resolved the doubt, 
expressed in the opening sentences of this Diary, in 
favour of publication. I have most assuredly not 
been led to this decision by any presumption that 
the hurried entries which it contains, written almost 
without exception on the days to which they refer, 
can be supposed to include sufficient matter worthy 
of being directly addressed either to the r scholar, the 
antiquary, the artist, the politician, or the divine; 
but I have thought it possible, considering the places 
which I have visited, and the periods of my visit, 
that they might awaken or recall associations, among 
each of these classes, which they will have derived 
from less shallow sources. 

It will, I think, be apparent that, even amidst such 
scenes, and at so stirring an era, nothing whatever 

A 3 



yi PREFACE. 

will be found here bordering upon party politics ; I 
feel indeed that the circumstance of these pages 
having been written without any special view, and 
being directed to no particular end, is the only 
possible one that can attach the smallest value to any 
inferences which they may suggest. 

It will be seen that I was frequently thrown in 
the way of persons entrusted with important func- 
tions, and highly responsible duties. I trust sincerely 
that I shall not be found to have abused any oppor- 
tunities of confidence which I thus enjoyed. 

"When I published a Lecture on my travels in the 
United States of America, I prefixed the following 
observation, w T hich seems to hold as good in its 
spirit for the East as the West, and is therefore here 
repeated. 

" I came in contact with several of the public 
men, the historical men they will be, of the American 
republic. I shall think myself at liberty occasionally 
to depart in their instance from the rule of strict 
abstinence which I have otherwise prescribed to 
myself, and to treat them as public property, so long 
as I say nothing to their disadvantage. On the 



PEEFACE. Vll 

other hand, the public men of the United States are 
not created faultless beings, any more than the 
public men of other countries ; it must not, therefore, 
be considered, when I mention with pleasure anything 
which redounds to their credit, that I am intending 
to present you with their full and complete por- 
traits." 

These pages issue from the press during the very 
crash of conflict, and the first shouts of victory. All 
speculations concerning arrangements for the future, 
the limits of empires, and the destinies of races, must 
remain suspended on the events, which, beneath the 
Supreme arbitrament, lie far beyond the reach of our 
discernment. May they be so directed as to ensure 
the progress of civilisation and commerce, the per- 
manence of peace, and the extension of Christianity 
in its widest senses, and most pervading influences ! 

Oct. 1854. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

Cologne -.-----3 

The Rhine 5 
Dresden - -- -- -- 8 

The Elbe ------- 11 

Prague - - - « - -12 

Vienna -------13 

The Danube. Testh - - - - 23 

Galatz - 30 

SULINA - - - - - 34 

Varna - - - - - - -35 

Constantinople - - - - - - 37 

Therapia - - - - - - -40 

Broussa - ----- 47 

The Hellespont ' - - - - - 67 

Besika Bay - » - - - - -68 

Tchigri -------73 

Eren-keuy - * 76 



X 



CONTENTS. 



Troy 








Page 
79 


BlTYUKDERE - 








- 100 


The Bosphorus 








- Ill 


Smyrna 








- 124 


Rhodes 








- 128 


Calimno 








- 146 


Scio - 








- 147 


MlTYLENE 








- 154 


The Dardanelles - 








- 163 


Sea op Marmora - 








- 167 


Syra 








- 184 


Cyclades 








- 185 


The Piraeus 








- 186 


Athens 








- 186 


Eleusis 








- 198 


Marathon - 


m 






- 200 


Phylze 






* 


- 203 


Adalia 




• * 


** 


- 213 


Alexandretta 




"■ ■ 




- 216 


Syria 


• 


** ■ 


- 


- 218 


Tripoli 








- 219 


Beyrout 








- 220 


The Lebanon 








- 222 


The Nile - 








- 223 


Alexandria 








- 225 



CONTENTS. xi 

Page 

Malta - - - 236 

Corfu - 258 

Chaonia - - - - - - - 275 

Saronic Gulf - 294 

The Argolid - - - - - - 296 

Sunium - 304 

Gulf of Yolo ------ 308 

Mount Pelion - - - - - -311 

Kavarna Bat - 318 

Corinth - - - - - - - 337 

Patras - - - - - - - 338 

Venice ------- 347 

Verona ------- 348 

Milan ------- 350 

Co mo ------- 351 

St. Gothard - - - - - - 352 

Switzerland - - - - - * 353 



TURKISH 



DIARY 

IN 

AND GREEK WATERS. 



Haying written an account of my visit to the 
Western World, I propose to myself the like task 
during my projected travels in the East. It shall 
again assume the form of a Diary, because my expe- 
rience of the writings of others convinces me that 
it is by far more entertaining than any other; it 
secures the freshness of first impressions for what- 
ever may be recorded ; and although it undoubtedly 
has the drawback of a tendency to include many 
details deficient in the importance and dignity due 
to more professed authorship, it has the countervail- 
ing merit of producing a more intimate sense of 
companionship between the author and reader, than 
can otherwise be obtained. I will also, in like 
manner, form no prepense determination beforehand, 
respecting the future destiny of the pages that are to 

B 



2 



SUBJECT. 



follow, whether they shall only be shown to friends, 
published to the world, communicated to their full 
extent, abridged, condensed into one or more 
Lectures, or kept entirely to myself. They shall 
reflect the feeling of the moment faithfully and 
freely ; all besides shall be reserved for after-consi- 
deration. 

I have but one point to premise, which I will do 
most succinctly, though it may appear to demand 
infinite explanation and reference : I only advert to 
it at all for the present, that I may be enabled, if I 
so think fit, to confront it with the results of subse- 
quent impressions. I go towards the venerable and 
mysterious East, with a fixed conviction upon my 
mind, that it is about, very shortly, to become the 
theatre of completed Scripture Prophecy, and of 
a commencing new dispensation of events. The cir- 
cumstances now in immediate operation upon that 
swelling scene, have an undoubted tendency to con- 
firm this anticipation, but it was formed long before 
they had assumed any such active development. I 
may at the same time assure any reader that I may 
hereafter have, that nothing is farther from my 
intention than to perk this topic in his face during 
my future progress. I believe the whole material of 
Prophecy to be so little within the search of " private 



COLOGNE. 



3 



interpretation," that the only safe and satisfactory- 
mode of dealing with it is, to leave its illustrations 
to events, without any attempt to twist events into 
conformity with preconceived ideas; and it will 
involve no departure from my present purpose, if the 
subject should never be again mentioned in these 
pages. 

I left London by the mail train, on the evening of 
the 3rd of June, 1853; crossed from Dover to Calais 
rapidly, but not quite smoothly or undisturbedly; 
left Calais at half-past two; stopped for rather a 
chilly hour, from five to six, at Lille, but took a 
glimpse of its handsome and quaint large square; 
went on by the Belgian lines, admired the forest 
slopes and clear streams of the Ardennes between 
Liege and Aix-la-Chapelle, and arrived at Cologne at 
half-past six. I stopped at the Cathedral ; it is most 
imposing — full of grandeur, beauty, and completeness 
of idea; and the endeavour now in progress to finish it 
is a stupendous work even in contemplation. I saw 
all the gilding and jewellery of relics and shrines, 
about which I do not care. I went on to the Hotel 
Bellevue, a charming house and large establishment, 
though, perhaps, with some want of our English 
nicety of finish. I am in an apartment evidently 
accustomed to receive travelling royalty. 



COLOGNE. 



June 5th. — Went to the cathedral at ten, and 
attended High Mass, which was celebrated with 
every adjunct 

" To swell the pomp of dreadful sacrifice." 

The music to-day was Mozart's Fourth Mass, 
and sounded very beautiful to my unskilled ears. 
I hope that I estimate this gorgeous ritual as I 
ought ; I recognise the undoubted hold which the 
combination of picturesque spectacle, glorious archi- 
tecture, and delicious harmony must have on the 
imagination of many; I still more appreciate the 
ever open door, the mixture of classes, and the 
fervent prayers offered up from obscure recesses and 
before solitary shrines; but the incessant genu- 
flections, the parrot chaunting of the legions of 
priests, and, above all, the foreign tongue, persuade 
me there must often be much that is hollow in 
the service, as well as false in the doctrine. I 
heard, afterwards, that I might have found a small 
assemblage of worshippers in our own service ; but 
for my single Sunday in Cologne, I cannot repent of 
having resorted to its cathedral. I dined at my first 
German table d'hote at half-past one ; and extremely 
well. It is, perhaps, not a more copious or better 
meal than in the best American hotels, but infinitely 



THE RHINE. 



5 



more deliberate. A military band plays pleasantly 
in the alley before tlie hotels on Sunday afternoons : 
but we want beat for such enjoyments as yet. 

June 6th. — Started at six, to ascend the Rhine. 
I will not invade the province of poets, tourists, 
and handbooks, by any detail of its well-known 
scenery. I had felt some curiosity to compare it 
with the Hudson. Even apart from all association 
with history, legend, and song, every building on the 
Rhine, from castle to granary, is essentially pic- 
turesque ; while every building in the United States, 
whatever its other more important characteristics 
may be, is essentially the reverse. Then the vineyards 
on the Rhine, though not strictly a beautiful feature, 
give an air, or at least an idea, of genial animation 
to the steep slopes and narrow clefts in which they 
are imbedded : so much on the side of the Rhine. I 
am inclined to think that the natural sites and out- 
lines of the Hudson are finer, but the great point of 
superiority is the look of movement on the river 
itself ; every one of its varied reaches is sure of 
being at all times spangled with white sails ; whereas 
I felt quite astonished at the small appearance of 
traffic on the Rhine. I had always looked upon 
it as the great highway of all the German nations, 
for the tolls of which free cities and powerful 

B 3 



6 



FRANKFORT. 



leagues had competed, and states and empires 
protocolled and fought; but one of the large 
timber-rafts, and a few steamers of very narrow 
girth, were all that I saw to-day, to compete with all 
the life and business that swarm on the Hudson, the 
Thames, or the Clyde. This is no doubt very much 
owing to the swiftness of the current, but still it 
detracts sensibly from the animation of the landscape. 
I ought in fairness to add, that it was a very undeco- 
rative day. I landed at Biberich, and walked in the 
gardens of the Grand Duke of Nassau, which are 
rather pretty, with great bloom of flowers, but on a 
dead level, and with much dirty-coloured water : in a 
pavilion I saw a very pretty statue of the first wife, 
a daughter of the Grand Duke Michael of Russia. 
I slept at Frankfort at the Hotel de Russie. 

June 7 th. — Started at eight, so I had but little 
time to look at this stately city. The continental 
towns usually appear to me as far ahead in exterior 
aspect of our provincial towns in England, as the 
general surface of the country, and the whole detail 
of agricultural economy, appear to me below our 
English level. The rapid transit of a railway in- 
creases the risk of superficial conclusions, but rural 
life seemed to me almost to stagnate as much com- 
paratively as the river traffic of yesterday. Does not 



GERMANY. 



7 



the universal and eternal smoking assist this tendency ? 
We know enough of Germans to see that it does not 
interfere with intellectual energy; but where husband- 
men as well as princes go about with pipes in their 
mouths, it cannot surely be favourable to continuous 
physical effort.* Perhaps the current of my thoughts 
was assisted to this direction by the company of two 
Americans, true sons of the United States, who 
evidently thought every thing in Europe was verging 
to a state of hopeless decrepitude, and pronounced 
the Rhine to be a small creek. One thing, how- 
ever, may be said on the other side : the portly build, 
and bluff' rosy faces of the old Teutonic stock, carry 
it hollow, both in weight and hue, over the spare 
forms and sallow cheeks of their Transatlantic pro- 
geny ; and though my friends referred, with some 
degree of complacency, to the contrast which the 
domestic duties of their women present to the female 
field labour of Germany, yet never mind, German 
women ! you are all free women. Men and women 
seem to be drinking all day under piazzas and trees, 
but you never see a drunken person. We had a 
reigning duke part of the way, and the military fuss 

h * I do not think I should have been equally struck with the 
prevalence of German smoking in my way back from Turkey. 

B 4 



8 



DKESDEN. 



he produced recalled Thackeray's inimitable account 
of the Court of Pumpel-Nickel. Marburg has a 
very striking outline, and the banks of the Lahn and 
Fulda are not without attraction. Got at ten to 
Weimar, for the literary glories of which I have 
more respect than for its inns. 

June 8th. — Off at half-past eight. After passing 
the pleasant valley of the Saale, we stopped for near 
two hours at Halle ; I walked to the principal church, 
a rather picturesque building, with a very pleasing 
and impressive altar-piece of the modern German 
school : the Sermon on the Mount by Hubner. The 
transfer from one railway to another is made amidst 
much hurry at Leipsic ; we then had a little stoppage, 
from the effects of what the Germans called a cloud- 
burst, which is rather a significant term for our water- 
spout, and got to Dresden at seven. The approach is 
through pretty and cheerful country, and it appeared 
to me a very comely town ; and, with the epithet, 
is fairly enough called the " German Florence." In 
my evening stroll, I found the terrace on the old site 
of Count Bruhl's gardens ; the view from it' of the 
broad Elbe and handsome bridge is very pleasing, 
and people were carousing mildly under the trees to 
the sound of music. 

June 9th. — I spent four hours in the gallery, — 



DRESDEN". 



9 



little enough, indeed, for its magnificent collection, 
but still a good deal for one haul. The arrangement 
appears to me very complete, but a vast number of 
pictures are in a very bad light, and one grudges 
several of the best being under glass; still more, 
when a large scaffold for copyists is before them. ' Of 
course I must speak first of the Madonna di San 
Sisto : it went beyond my expectation, and I ex- 
pected to see the finest picture in the world. In the 
Infant Saviour, and his deep, still, but yet not un- 
childish gaze, there is to me the actual look of Deity. 
The Night of Correggio I naturally admired exces- 
sively. The collection is very rich in his works; 
and thinking him almost unapproachable in delicacy 
of grace and tenderness, I yet could not look at the 
whole of them without feeling that even the tender- 
ness of his Virgins now and then borders upon 
affectation, and the grace of his cherubs approaches 
to quaintness. The small Magdalen is lovely. I 
thought Titian's Christo della Moneta super- 
excellent. There is a most copious glow of Rubens 
and Rembrandt upon these walls : Ruysdael and 
Yan der Werff in great perfection: a most beau- 
tiful Palma Vecchio, and two very striking pictures 
by artists of little comparative general notoriety , — 
a large one of most high and simple dignity by 



10 



DRESDEN. 



Bagnacavallo, and a small one of great loveliness by 
Gemignano. 

My great enjoyment of this gallery was farther 
heightened by meeting Count Nicholas Pahlen, with 
whom I have long had many pleasant associations of 
Italian galleries. 

I dined pleasantly with our minister, Mr. Forbes : 
till one is quite steeped in continental life, one feels 
rather to resent having done with all the hospitality 
by seven o'clock. The talk of some of the guests 
rolled sonorously upon grand dukes and duchesses. I 
have some doubt whether this habit can be entirely 
referred to the spirit of courtiership in the human 
breast, and whether it is not, at least in part, derived 
from a far more universal tendency, that of taking an 
interest in the minute details of all interior family 
life. Subjects talk of the domestic concerns and 
habits of their rulers, just as country neighbours do 
of the proceedings at the castle or the great manor- 
house, not only because they are great people, but 
because such details are more easily discoverable. It 
is precisely the same source of interest which attaches 
such charm to the unequalled dissection of character 
and development of minutiae in Miss Austin's 
novels : when we can really learn all about them, we 
are as much engrossed with the households of the 



THE ELBE. 



11 



Bennetts and Woodhouses as if they were Hapsburgs 
or Romanoffs. 

June 9th. — Off at seven. I find every thing go 
easily with my excellent courier, a German by 
birth; but it requires to be ready near two hours 
before starting to ensure the luggage being stowed in 
time. The first part of the railway w T as through 
Saxon Switzerland, with which I was much pleased. 
I rather believe that the Elbe is more cheerful than 
the Rhine. There is a particularly picturesque spot 
where the train is stopped on the Austrian or Bohe- 
mian frontier at Tetschen, opposite the large country- 
house of Count Thun. I find no difficulty from the 
Austrian officials, but one perceives that the general 
scrutiny of passports is severe. The scenery along 
the Elbe continues to be pretty, but the transition 
from Saxony to Bohemia, with regard to the aspect 
of the people, of their dwellings, and of their agricul- 
ture, rather resembles the change from English to 
Irish landscape ; not that Saxony is so well dressed 
as England, or Bohemia so ill dressed as Ireland. 
How are we to distribute the causes of this difference, 
— what to Government ? what to Creed ? I think 
I may take credit to myself for wishing to look at all 
things with an unbigoted eye ; but true it seems to 
be, that as soon as you come to the crucifix on the 



12 



PRAGUE. 



high knolls and in the little groves, often most pic- 
turesque in effect, the appearance of comfort and 
well-being among the people is on the wane. I 
reached Prague in time to take a long drive about 
the town ; and what a town it is ! That I may con- 
dense as much as possible my description of the more 
beaten parts of my track, it is enough to say that it 
has palaces like Rome, cupolas like Moscow, sites 
like Edinburgh. Then it is so very full of history, 
down to the latest moment ; and one gets a little con- 
fused between the marks of cannon-balls in the Thirty 
Years 5 War, in the Seven Years' War, and in 1848. 
The particular idiosyncrasy of the Bohemian history 
seems to have been a passion for throwing people 
from windows and bridges; among other memorials 
of past violence, they point out the window where 
poor Princess Windischgratz was shot in 1848; I 
believe the aim Avas intended for her husband. I 
saw the old synagogue of the Jews, the exterior of 
Wallenstein's palace, and many others; the unfinished 
cathedral, of which the choir absolutely blazes with 
gold, silver, and jewels ; and the magnificent view 
over the town from a balcony of the Hraschin, a vast 
palace of the Bohemian kings. In the evening I went 
to tjie opera, — a large theatre, with a good orchestra. 
They gave Martha, by Flotow. 



VIENNA. 



13 



June 10th. — Started at half-past five. Moravia 
seemed to me a richer and more comfortable-looking 
country than Bohemia. After a short halt at its ca- 
pital, Brunn, under the ill-reputed fortress of Spiegel, 
we arrived at Vienna about eight. I thought the 
approach over the Danube, and my first sight of that 
historic stream, quite exciting. I went to the good 
hotel of the Archduke Charles. Heard from Julian 
Fane that the Emperor of Russia gives the Porte 
eight days to accept Menchikoff 's last note ; if not, 
he enters the northern principalities. Austria will 
advise Turkey not to treat this as a measure of war : 
it is a tolerably strong one nevertheless. 

June 12th. — Went to the house of our minister for 
morning service. Saw the Westmorlands, who show 
the kindest promptitude of hospitality. Saw Lady 
William Russell, who is staying at my hotel. Went 
to St. Stephen's during vespers ; it is a very beau- 
tiful church : the exterior tower, or rather spire, ex- 
tremely fine, and within there is a degree of imposing 
gloom, relieved by occasional streaks of gorgeousness 
which I have hardly seen equalled : I think, how- 
ever, that Roberts's admirable picture rather exag- 
gerates the effect of the low arch on entering. Few 
people there. Dined with the Westmorlands ; met 
Sir J ohn Potter, whom I had last seen knighted by 



14 



VIENNA. 



the Queen at Manchester. He encourages me about 
Turkey and Egypt. Lady Westmorland took me 
to the gardens at Schonbrunn, which quite fulfil the 
idea of an imperial pleasaunce, with their green alleys, 
white statues, and fountains. There was as much of 
the fashion as is still left in Vienna walking about, 
and a fair display of beauty. The road side is plea- 
sant, filled with people sitting and quaffing. Later 
in the evening the Westmorlands again took me to 
a reception at Count BuoPs, the secretary for foreign 
affairs: I was received very civilly. I was intro- 
duced to the Russian minister, M. Mayendorff, who 
seems a very accomplished person. M. de Bour- 
queney, the French minister, whom I saw at Schon- 
brunn, rather expects war. Prince Metternich told 
him that his instinct predicted peace, though his 
reason pointed to war : also, that he feared the ques- 
tion might have to be resolved, not at Petersburg, 
but at Moscow (that is, by the high Russo-Greek 
Church party). 

June \%th. — Went to the picture gallery at the 
Belvedere Palace, the last residence of Prince 
Eugene. It is a very fine collection, though of 
course not equal to that of Dresden; it has three 
Raphaels, one of them very beautiful, some Cor- 
reggios, and is very rich in Titians and the Venetian 



VIENNA. 



15 



masters ; and great spaces are gloriously covered by 
Rubens. It was not a day of public admission, and 
no one else was there but M. MayendorfF, who has 
great zest and knowledge about pictures. I thought 
he looked a little hesitating, when I mentioned to 
him my Danubian project; asked whether I should 
find the road by Trieste much longer ; but he ended 
with promising to give me a letter to show to any 
one in case of difficulty. I dined with the Westmor- 
lands ; M. de Bourqueney was there, still very 
ominous of war. I drank tea afterwards, upstairs, 
with Lady William Russell : her conversation is most 
agreeable, and she gave a very graphic account of the 
whole revolution here, which she witnessed from the 
same apartment. I hear from other quarters a sad 
account of the Austrian finances, and especially of 
the capriciousness with which they are levied. They 
tell me that the inhabitants of Vienna, except the 
highest classes, are very licentious. The court, in- 
cluding the present Emperor, I believe to be irre- 
proachable in morals. They give me a very bad 
account of the old class of priests, in point both of im- 
morality and ignorance. The demarcations of society 
are more rigidly observed than in any other country : 
no artist is ever admitted to the high society. Prince 
Schwartzenburg invited this year a few of the great 



16 



VIENNA. 



bankers' wives to a ball, at which the Emperor was 
present^ and it created the wildest dismay. Some 
one expressed regret at this system to a great 
lady here ; she rejoined, " Mais vous voyez, les 
salons de Vienne seraient trop petits." It is not their 
palaces that stand in need of the requisite enlarge- 
ment. 

June 13th. — Secured my place in the Danube 
steam-boat to Constantinople. Went with Lady 
Westmorland to Count Edmund Zichy's ; he 
showed us a marvellous collection, principally of old 
swords, of every age and clime, and of his own 
splendidly jewelled Hungarian dresses. We went 
on with him to the Imperial treasury, where we 
saw very fine crown jewels, and various interesting 
relics both of German and Austrian Empires, begin- 
ning with the crown of Charlemagne. Then to the 
Imperial carriages, dating not quite so far back, but 
there was one which belonged to Charles V. : also to 
the Manege, which is of very august dimensions ; here 
lately had been held a splendid carousel, or tourna- 
ment, of which they spoke with great admiration : 
then to the library, which I imagine must be the 
finest room north of the Alps ; it has priceless 
manuscripts. I then went over Prince Lichtenstein's 
Palace, which I had heard compared to Stafford 



VIENNA. 



17 



House : it lias nothing like its staircase, and nothing 
like its pictures (the Prince's are elsewhere): the 
ball-room is more brilliant than any room at Stafford 
House, and there is more lightness, and perhaps not 
less richness, in the gilding and decoration, I dined 
at my hotel, which is renowned for its cookery. I 
drove afterwards with Lady William in the Prater ; 
it is very pretty with its green alleys, and park-like 
glades, and fair visitors ; but I think it must 
generally be very damp. I admire Vienna on the 
whole extremely: in the town itself, the narrow 
streets, tall houses, and frequent palaces, remind me 
occasionally of Genoa ; while the cheerful faubourg, 
the broad glacis, with its alleys of chestnut and 
acacia in fullest blossom, and the fine outlines 
of hill beyond, make it a very attractive city. 
I suppose that in the beauty of its environs it sur- 
passes any other capital, — again I say, north of the 
Alps. We then had ices in the Graben. I went 
on with Lady William for one act of a German play, 
in the Burg Theatre, of which I was hardly worthy 
from my ignorance of German, one of the many 
mistakes of my life. I went with Odo Russell to 
the Volksgarten, where citizens and soldiers were 
sitting under trees, listening to the alternate bands 
of Strauss and a Bohemian regiment : this seems the 

c 



18 



VIENNA. 



rfSost attractive point of Vienna life, enjoyment of 
open air and music. I went still on for one act of the 
opera Stradella, and finished a full day with listening 
to some animated details of Austrian history and 
character. It was rather a bold feat of Schwartzen- 
burg to propose to one reigning emperor, and to his 
next heir and brother, that both should resign 
empire. The Emperor Ferdinand was almost a 
positive idiot ; the Archduke had only a very negative 
understanding, and was delighted to escape trouble : 
there were the two wives ; they were the two agents 
employed, they both went to church together, prayed 
for grace and strength to effect their purpose, and 
then persuaded their husbands, I believe, without 
any difficulty. The present young Emperor showed 
great modesty and diffidence ; he is an excellent son, 
and very much attached to his mother, the Arch- 
duchess Sophia. What I collect about his character 
is this : I believe he is spotless in morals, very con- 
scientious in the performance of duty, determined to 
do all himself, very simple, and without any turn for 
display; this is all on the promising side: — on the 
other, he as yet seems almost exclusively devoted to 
his army ; it is natural indeed for him to feel that he 
and the monarchy owe every thing to them. Those 
who surround him are thought to be narrow and 



VIENNA. 



19 



harsh, and there have been some symptoms of hard- 
ness in his own character. On the whole, hitherto 
the good appears to me to predominate. 

June 15th. — W ent with R. Dundas and Odo Russell 
to a great parade of the garrison of Vienna for the 
King of Bavaria. About 18,000 men on the ground: 
the sight was very gay and sparkling, with the long 
lines of white uniform, and the brilliant colours 
among the large staff. It was uncommonly pretty to 
see the Emperor, who is a very accomplished horse- 
man, ride at the head of his troops, give the salute 
to the King, and then gallop round to join him. The 
procedure was just the same, bating numbers, as at 
the parade before the Horse Guards on the Queen's 
birth-day. At two, the following party, Lord and 
Lady Westmorland, Lady Rose Fane and the ac- 
complished Julian, Lady William and Odo Russell, 
and some others, went by rail to Baden : we walked 
about the town and looked at one of the public baths, 
where the arrangement struck most of us as not a 
little extraordinary ; men and women go into it at 
the same time, and the custom is for the ladies to 
remain seated in the water, and the men to go about 
talking to them. W e also saw a swimming bath ; but 
here the sexes are separated : the smell of sulphur is 
extremely strong. They never drink the water here, 

C 2 



20 



VIENNA 



only bathe. We had a very good impromptu dinner 
at a restaurateur's, and agreed that we are compara- 
tively backward in such matters in England, except 
indeed at Greenwich or Blackwall. Afterwards we 
drove up the valley to the coffee-house of Carniola, 
and drank coffee under the trees. I was extremely 
pleased with the scenery, — wood-clad hills as at Tay- 
mouth, with a profusion of acacias and limes, in the 
fullest bloom and odour. The residence here is not 
so much in fashion as formerly, but people go more 
to Ischl. After a very enjoyable day, we railed back 
to Vienna beneath the flickering of summer light- 
nings. 

June 16th. — Took a Russian bath for the first time 
in my life ; the main part of the process consists in 
sudden and frequent alternations from very great heat 
to great cold. Called on Princess Sarah Esterhazy. 
All talk of her character as angelic* Went to see the 
monument by Canova to the Archduchess Christina 
at the church of the Augustines ; it is very beauti- 
ful, perhaps his best work ; also looked through a 
hole at a number of jars, in which the hearts of the 
imperial family are preserved. Walked round the 

* I am glad to have written thus, before I knew how soon 
the praise could only serve as an epitaph for her early and 
lamented grave. 



THE DANUBE. 



21 



glacis. Dined with Prince Paul Esterhazy; there 

were Marshal Nugent, General Walmoden, both fine 

old soldiers; the Hanoverian Minister; Baron Ward, 

minister and ex-groom of the Duke of Lucca (his 

English savoured of this last capacity, but he must 

be a man of some ability and energy); and some of 

the English Legation. Took leave of the West- 
er o 

morlands at the Opera; of Lady William at tea. 
I should have liked to make rather a longer halt 
amidst the easy and cheerful life of Vienna ; but, in 
the present relations of Russia and Turkey, it is 
more prudent not to defer a voyage down the 
Danube. 

June Ylth. — At nine I embarked, at the end of 
the Prater, on the Szechenye steamboat, belonging 
to the Danube Steam Company. It is at present 
one of three of a superior class of vessels which have 
begun to run this year, and is in every respect of 
first-rate character. The accommodations are excel- 
lent: I have a most comfortable and airy cabin. The 
large room for company is upon the level of the deck, 
and there is a deck to walk upon above its poop after 
the manner of the American steamers. The fare 
seems uncommonly good, and it is not stinted, as 
will appear from the following arrangement : — break- 
fast, that is, coffee, tea, or chocolate, is to be had 

c 3 



22 



THE DANUBE. 



from six till eight ; at eleven a fresh breakfast, in 
fact; a dinner ; at half-past four, dinner ; and tea at 
eight. There are about eighteen cabin passengers : 
my only previous acquaintance was Sir Charles 
O'Donnell, whom I met at Lord Westmorland's ; he 
has seen much service in various parts of the world : 
— in 1828 with the Russians against the Turks ; he 
has now more of a mind to serve with the Turks 
against the Russians ; he is on his road to Persia ; 
I believe he has some Persian descent. There is 
Countess Sturza, going to see her estates in Molda- 
via ; and others from many regions — a Russian invalid 
grandee — singers for an Italian Opera at Odessa. 
Our captain (Lucovitz) appears to me quite a distin- 
guished person in looks, manners, and mind : he is a 
Dalmatian by birth. This navigation company seems 
to be really one of the most potent levers of improve- 
ment that could be applied to all the fair and back- 
ward territories watered by the Lower Danube ; it 
was largely indebted for its promotion and progress 
to the energy and public spirit of the unfortunate 
Count Szechenye, who has been out of his mind 
since the Hungarian Revolution. When the large 
operations of this Danube Company, and those of the 
Austrian Lloyd Company in the Euxine, Egean, 
Mediterranean, and Adriatic, are taken into consi- 



THE DANUBE. PESTH. 



23 



deration, it must be felt that Austria has entered 
upon a line of enterprise at once most expedient and 
creditable to her. One is tempted slightly to vary 
the old couplet : 

Bella gerant alii; tu, felix Austria, fuma, 
Nam quae Mars aliis, dat tibi regna vapor. 

To-day, after emerging from the long low lines of 
islands and brushwood which track the river below 
Vienna, we passed under that dismantled palace of 
Presburg, where the famous " Moriamur pro rege 
nostro, Maria Theresa ! " and the flashing of the Hun- 
garian swords, answered the appeal of the Queenly 
Beauty — then close along, rather than under, the 
casemated walls of the uncaptured Comorn — then 
as hills and vineyards began to swell above the banks, 
below Gran, the seat of the Primate of Hungary, 
who has been somewhat mulcted of late from his 
previous revenue of near 50,000/. a year : there is a 
stately modern church of Italian architecture ; then, 
as the evening closed in, after a day of rather fitful 
weather, we drew up to shore alongside the 
quays of Pesth. Sir C. O'Donnell and I took a 
caleche, and drove across the extremely handsome 
suspension bridge (built by Mr. Clark, of Hammer- 
smith Bridge antecedents,) up to the fortress terrace 

c 4 



24 



THE DANUBE. 



of Buda, which, four years ago, poured its hot fierce 
volleys of shell and grape on the town of Pesth, 
stretching out wide on the opposite bank below, but 
which now with its white lines of wide streets and 
squares, and the broad brimming river, and the 
wooded islands, and the far hills, and the steep rocks 
of the Blochsberg rising immediately over us, lay in 
the soft stillness of twilight beneath a fast filling moon. 
The situation is most imposing : neither of the towns 
has the picturesqueness or splendour of Prague, of 
which, however, one is much reminded, as well as of 
Edinburgh, especially in the contrast between the 
elder and more irregular Buda, and the straight lines 
and broader spaces of the younger Pesth. "We stayed 
for near two hours to take in coals; our gallant 
captain would have wished for a few hours more, as 
he had a wife here to whom he had been married 
only four months. At ten o'clock we puffed away 
again under the bright moonlight. 

June 18th. — On getting up soon after six I found 
we were off Mohacs, distinguished alike in former 
history as the point of advance and retreat for the 
Ottoman arms. During the previous night I under- 
stood that the surrounding country was flat, and so 
it continued ; little met the eye, except occasionally 
large herds of horses, sometimes apparently grazing 



• THE DANUBE. 



25 



on tufts of grass in the midst of the water : the very 
high level of the river, after the late copious rains, 
must have mainly contributed to this appearance. It 
is impossible not to feel frequently, when looking 
over the vast wastes of plain, that emigration might 
find ample room and verge enough among these 
barely cultivated breadths of Europe. In the after- 
noon, hills began again to rise, and the giant river to 
expand ; we passed by the ramparts of Peterwardein, 
and the vineyards of Carlowitz; we stopped for a 
short time at the frontier town of Semlin, and hailed 
our first minarets on the sloping hill of Belgrade. 
With Servia an our right, the appearance of cultiva- 
tion grew still scantier ; and the river, now aug- 
mented by its chief tributaries, the Drave, Theiss, and 
Save, and spread out wide on each side by recent 
inundations, looked like an inland sea. The evening 
clouded over ; and before we entered the moun- 
tainous region of the Danube, and the rapids on its 
stream, we lay to for five hours and a half. 

June I9tk. — I was on deck at half-past three, soon 
after our starting. Shortly, below Moldova, the 
river enters a defile of steep, rocky, wooded hills, 
flanked by a castle on one side and a tower opposite, 
after the Rhenish manner ; but I think that it soon 
surpasses its German brother-flood. They say that 



26 THE DANUBE, IRON GATES. 

the cliffs are as high as 2000 feet; and here the 
monarch of European streams, with its Drave, and 
Save, and Theiss, that we had seen the evening 
before spread out like an enormous lake, is so 
hemmed in as in one place to be only 145 yards 
across. We encountered very heavy driving rain in 
the heart of the gorge, but I stood out most of it on 
deck : there are vestiges in the perpendicular rock of 
sockets for the beams which supported a causeway 
made by Trajan during his Dacian campaigns ; and a 
slate of rock is pointed out, on which an inscription 
to commemorate them can still be decyphered. We 
drew up at Orsova, the frontier town on the left bank 
of the river between Austria and Wallachia, where 
our baggage was submitted to an examination upon 
the part of both states, but I must say in our case it 
was entirely nominal on either side. The town is 
prettily nestled in hills which have here begun to 
subside. Just below it we passed a Turkish fortress 
and island, which command the river, but do not 
seem capable of very stout defence ; we then arrived 
at the most critical rapid, which bears the imposing 
name of the Iron Gates. This portion of the Danube 
had till lately been thought impassable by steamboats ; 
but a bold captain in the company's service made the 
trial one day, and the others have followed. They 



THE DANUBE. 



27 



are obliged, however, when the water is low, to 
transport their cargoes either in small boats or by 
the shore. We made another halt at Sozoreny, the 
Roman Severinum, where the passports are submitted 
to a Wallachian officer, — a useless operation, our 
captain thinks, as the officer understands no language 
but Wallachian. Here I fell in with a countryman 
who has been seventeen years in the company's 
service as engineer or agent, Besides apparently 
having the energy and straightforwardness which, 
I trust, we may consider not uncommon attributes of 
his countrymen, he seemed to have a great aptitude 
for acquiring languages, which I do not think so 
common an one, and spoke fluently, and he said well, 
in French, German, Italian, and Wallachian. He 
says he has not found the natives dishonest, but most 
incurably lazy : it is quite impossible to make them 
work, except under the pressure of immediate hunger, 
and that is by no means a constant incentive in a 
country of immense natural fertility. Many were 
standing and lying about in their loose tunics, red 
sashes, high woollen caps, and most unwashed sheep 
skins (a common vesture, it seemed to me, of all the 
Danubian races) — models of picturesque filthiness. 
I do not know what is most to be wished for these 
populations. I am inclined to believe that they 



28 



THE DANUBE. 



have scarcely advanced a single step since the con- 
quests of Trajan ; and one gets to feel that almost 
any revolution which could rouse their torpor and 
stimulate their energies — which could hold out a 
motive to exertion and secure a return to industry — 
with whatever ingredients of confusion and strife it 
might be accompanied, must bring superior advan- 
tages in the end. As far as I can make out, there 
seems to be general distaste for the Russians. The 
hopes of human progress do not lie in that quarter. 
When I remark on the neglected and abused oppor- 
tunities which surround me on every side, I do not 
disguise from myself what may be retorted upon an 
Englishman with respect to Ireland; but even if 
there should be no people whom the Irish may not 
match in their occasional misery, there are, at all 
events, among them copious indications of energy 
and character in whatever direction they may be 
developed, while in these regions, blessed with a 
genial climate and generous soil, man, as yet, has 
only seemed to vegetate. 

J ust below the small village are the piers, on both 
banks, of the bridge built by Trajan over a breadth 
of 3900 English feet; the architect was Apollodorus 
of Damascus ; the figures of the Dacians on Trajan's 
pillar are said to resemble the modern Wallachians in 



THE DANUBE. 



29 



features, person, and costume. What a people the 
Romans were ! May not even England have some- 
thing to learn in the way of material improvements 
for India from what Rome did for Dacia ? 

We passed Widdin, which, with other subsequent 
Turkish towns, make a decent show from the river, 
with trees and minarets; but I hear they are sad 
squalid places within.* The shore of Bulgaria, 
which we had now reached, on the right side of the 
river, is more varied and elevated than the opposite 
Wallachia. The breadth of the overflow of water 
made our captain think it more prudent to cast 
anchor during the dark hours. When we had 
stopped, part of the Italian company, consisting of 
the family of Signor Ferlotti, with the assistance of 
our all-accomplished captain, sang beautiful Italian 
music from the current operas, and their strong and 
mellow voices rose delightfully from the still Danube. 

June 20th. — Between our two breakfasts, we 
halted at Giurgevo, which serves as a port to Bucha- 
rest. We saw it in splashing rain, which aggravated 

* If I could have anticipated the events of the coming year, 
I should have looked with interest at Kalafat, on the opposite 
side of the river; with deeper respect at Silistria, lower down 
on the right bank. Its recent heroic defence may go far to 
qualify some of the less favourable opinions subsequently 
expressed. 



30 



THE DANUBE. 



its indigenous look of discomfort and decrepitude. It 
had a garrison of 200 Wallachian soldiers : they had 
no news of the movements of Russia. With a little 
practice, I believe that one might soon make out the 
Wallachian language by the help of Latin. Here 
and in Moldavia they still call themselves Romans. 
Soon after we set out again we had a thunderstorm, 
through which Silistria loomed darkly : it is singular 
to have arrived in this latitude towards the end of 
June without having once wished to change my 
warmest winter clothing. This evening the river 
seemed to begin to shake off its shores. In one place 
Ave saw vines on the Bulgarian bank, but generally 
there appeared an extreme deficiency of cultivation. 
The more I see of these countries, seen, however, 
it must be remembered, only during the transit 
of a very rapid steamer going at a rate of sixteen 
miles with the current, I feel more strongly that 
any change which should disturb the stagnant mass 
would seem to give a chance of eliciting something 
better than the present state of fetid, mouldy putre- 
faction. After dark we touched at Ibraila, and then 
came on to Galatz, the term of our navigation in our 
present vessel. It is the main port of Moldavia. 

June 2\st. ■ — On getting up, I was rather concerned 
to learn that the steamboat which was to take us up 



THE DANUBE. GALATZ. 



31 



here for Constantinople had not yet arrived ; it is, 
however, expected in the course of the day. The 
English Consul, Mr. Cunningham, came on board to 
see us ; he has lived here for eighteen years, which, 
1 think, must be a sorry destiny. They expect to 
hear shortly of the Russian entrance: he says the 
poor Principalities have always to bear the expenses, 
though Russia professes to pay them. Another 
agreeable concomitant of the occupation is, that the 
Russian armies never fail to introduce the plague, or, 
at least, some bad fever which passes under that 
name. The quarantine seems to be the real plague 
of these districts : every one who crosses over from 
the opposite bank is subject to it ; and it even pre- 
vents their getting any supply of fish, as the boatmen 
are not allowed to pass to and fro. We asked 
what was the object of the line of pickets which had 
continued at regular intervals all down the Danube, 
and were now, for the most part, stationed in the 
midst of the water : we Avere told that their main 
object in the Principalities was to prevent the 
peasants from running away from their masters : as 
their place of refuge would be either Turkey or 
Russia, it did not give me an elevated idea of their 
present condition. The system of serfage is very 
complete; and as they are obliged to secure the 



32 



THE DANUBE. GALATZ. 



harvest of the Lord or Boyard before their own, in 
unfavourable seasons they sustain the worst extre- 
mities of hunger. The Austrian Lloyd's steamer, 
Persia, arrived in the middle of the day, and we 
learned that we were to set out at eight to-morrow 
morning. I took a walk in the town with Sir 
Charles : it was the first time I had felt the real heat 
of the South. We did not go to see the tomb of 
Mazeppa. I never saw a town of equal pretensions 
to population (about 25,000) so indescribably rude 
and topsy-turvy —such ravines of streets — such 
shreds of vehicles — such naked, tattered, picturesque 
varieties of costume. Yet, in contrast to all these 
aspects of barbarism, a very tolerable military band 
was playing opposite our vessel while we were taking 
our coffee on deck ; and after sunset we went to an 
opera in an extemporaneous wooden theatre, where 
the Somnambula was very decently performed by an 
Italian company. I am aware that some may pro- 
bably read these pages who inseparably connect the 
idea of evil with that of any theatre. It seems to 
me a great pity to establish any such Shibboleth. 
Theatres in large and luxurious capitals naturally 
derive some taint from the surrounding atmosphere ; 
and though it is quite possible to conceive scenic re- 
presentations put upon a footing wholly unexception- 



THE DANUBE. GALATZ. 



33 



able, and though, even with their present drawbacks, 
they are not seldom frequented by many as upright 
in conduct and as pure in heart as perhaps any of 
their censors, yet undoubtedly there is much in the 
prevailing arrangements of modern theatres, both on 
and off the stage, from which we cannot feel sur- 
prised that a sensitive conscience should shrink. In 
smaller societies, especially where the opera is given 
without the ballet, many of the prominent matters 
of scandal are sensibly diminished, if not wholly 
banished ; and, to say nothing of music being almost 
a necessity of life to the German and Italian races, I 
could not but feel that in a community such as 
Galatz, where all around, whether in nature or 
society, is rough, drear, and squalid, — where most 
of the inhabitants are still dressed in sheep-skins, 
and look as if they still were pretty much what Ovid 
had left them, 

" £Tec venit ad duros Musa vocata Getas," * 

the sternest moralist could hardly bring himself to 
complain, that an access had been made to their dull 
ears and vacant senses for a refined and humanising 
art. When we came out of the homely theatre, what 



* " Ko Muse here soothes the rugged Thracian's ear." 



34 



THE DANUBE. SULINA. 



a full moon was sailing through the light-blue heaven ! 
I felt it had been worth while to have come so far to 
see that moon. 

June 22nd. — At eight I left the Szechenj^e steam- 
boat, and its manly and accomplished captain. He 
is one of those from whom one cannot part without a 
wish of encountering again in some scene of shifting 
life. We transferred ourselves to the Persia, which 
^Ye found a good sea-boat, with copious but less- 
tempting fare, and the captain another Dalmatian, of 
whom it need only be said that he seemed to under- 
stand his business well. We set off with only six 
passengers in the upper cabin, though on different 
parts of the deck were a Turkish and a Jewish 
quarter, and a small Turkish booth, at which coffee 
is made. At stated hours we see the Turks and 
Jews saying their prayers, and bowing to the ground, 
with their faces turned respectively to Jerusalem or 
Mecca. We passed the mouth of the Pruth, the 
boundary (for the present) of Russian rule; then, 
the spot at which the Russians crossed the Danube 
during the last war ; then, a distant view of Ismail. 
The moment of quitting the Danube by the Sulina, 
or central mouth of the river, was very interesting. 
This channel was secured to Russia by the Treaty of 
Adrianople, on the condition that it should be open 



VARNA. 



35 



to the commerce of all nations, and that the Rus- 
sians should keep it in navigable order. They have 
brought a dredging-machine there, but it has scarcely 
ever been detected at work ; and the result might be 
inferred from the spectacle which at present met our 
eyes, of hundreds of vessels in the river within the 
mouth, and scores of them in the sea without, unable 
to pass the Bar. Our ship only drew seven feet and 
a half of water, and had purposely brought no mer- 
chandise. We winded triumphantly through a long 
double tier of vessels, but even we grazed the ground 
sensibly on passing the Bar : " Con tutta la forza," 
cried the captain to the man at the engine, and we 
were safe on the still surface of the Euxine. 

June 23rd. — About ten we stopped off Yarna to 
take in coals, which Turkish dilatoriness made a lono; 
operation. The passengers went on shore. We found 
large cargoes of ammunition in process of being 
landed at the pier. After we had walked about the 
town, which looked thoroughly Oriental and fragile, 
and had halted for a little at a fountain, I was sur- 
prised at being joined there by Mr. Stanley, son of 
Lord Stanley of Alderley, now attached to the 
embassy at Constantinople, and at present stationed 
here to fill the place of the resident consul, who has 
been despatched into the interior. He introduced us 

D 2 



36 



BLACK SEA. 



to a very good-humoured looking Pasha, and took us 
to see some of the fortifications, now being renewed 
after their destruction at the capture of the town 
by the Russians, in 1829. He is the most zealous 
conceivable partisan of Turkey, and is convinced 
that she would beat Russia in fair fight. I cannot 
share this anticipation ; every thing seems done in 
such a slip-shod manner. I think he said that they 
reckoned upon having 120,000 troops in Bulgaria, 
and the garrison of Constantinople is 80,000. When 
we returned to the vessel, we found ourselves re- 
inforced by the inmates of some Turkish hare ems, 
five ladies, I believe, belonging to two husbands, 
with an old nurse, and a quantity of children from 
all the parentage. They had a separate compart- 
ment on deck, but by no means confined themselves 
to it, as they came out freely among us, and went 
even into our cabins : they were rather pretty, with 
gentle gait, but sallow roseless cheeks ; their dress is 
that of nuns in loose dressing-gowns, with their veils 
fastened above the mouth ; these were of rather 
transparent texture. What pleases me least is the 
effect of the henna, a light red dye with which the 
nails are stained. 

June 24th. — After a smooth course, at about ten, 
we came to the guardian rocks of the Symplegades, 



CONSTANTINOPLE, 



37 



the light-houses, and the mouth of the Bosphorus, 
and then, between the guns of the alternating 
fortresses, the lines of the Turkish men-of-war, the 
villas of embassies, the palaces of Sultans, the ter- 
raced treillages, and the cypress groves, we ran 
rapidly down these famous straits of Europe and 
Asia. Perhaps, on the whole, there was less of shade 
and softness in the scenery of the banks than I had 
anticipated, and the immediate entrance from the 
Black Sea is decidedly disappointing. The Great 
City crowns the vista : the position is most beautiful 
and most imperial, capping the successive heights 
with domes and minarets, and lining with town and 
tower the splashing blue waters of each bay and 
inlet. Shortly after we had dropped anchor in the 
Golden Horn, there was a thundering salute and 
manning of yards among all the ships in the harbour, 
which betokened that the Sultan was proceeding in 
his state barge to one of the mosques, which happens 
on Fridays. On landing and walking up to Messiri's 
Hotel in Pera, I was struck far beyond my ex- 
pectation with the ruggedness, the narrowness, the 
steepness, and the squalidness of the streets ; an 
impression which the extension of my walk through 
Galata (the old Genoese quarter) and Constantinople 
Proper (Stamboul) materially aggravated. I could 

D 3 



38 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



not see tlie close dwellings and bazaars, the mangy 
dogs, and the no less so swarms of humankind, with- 
out wondering, not that the plague has ever got 
there, but that it has ever got out again. We saw 
a sort of promenade, or Corso, of Turkish ladies, in 
small painted carriages, upon a bit of ground about 
the size of Stable Yard, in London, covered with dust 
and guarded by a file of soldiers to keep mankind off; 
a duty, however, not rigorously exercised. We went 
into the outer court of a neighbouring mosque, in 
which a bazaar is held during the sacred month of 
Ramazan, which is now going on. I thought the 
caution of our guide on entering the sacred precincts 
rather characteristic of the influences of Moslem 
sanctity, — " Prenez garde, il y a beaucoup de voleurs." 
We saw numbers of the sacred pigeons, which pecu- 
liarly belong to this mosque. The hotel is a pleasant 
one ; the fare, on the whole, good. I dined at the 
table d'hote ; dinner at seven. I found a large party 
(about thirty) of shifting tourists — American, Bel- 
gian, but chiefly English. I walked in a sort of 
public alley afterwards, where people were drinking 
coffee, and an indifferent band playing. The whole 
was a shabby affair, very different from Dresden and 
Vienna. Some of the gentlemen at the hotel went to 
see a sort of Turkish Punch called Karagoos; but 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



39 



they had given me such an account of the abominable 
indecency of the exhibition, that I really felt it a point 
of conscience not to go. They found that it quite 
answered to its character. I was not prepared for 
the shocking details I hear of the state of morals ; I 
do not wish to dwell on such topics ; they are such 
as, if fully known, would, I imagine, tend much to 
arrest the somewhat profuse flow of English sym- 
pathy for the Ottoman race. 

June 25th. — Breakfast goes on from six to twelve. 
I took a Turkish bath at Galata, and liked the pro- 
cess, though in some respects it appears a strange 
one. There is an excellent account of them in Mr. 
Thackeray's most accurate and entertaining "Journey 
from Cornhill to Cairo." One lies upon a couch of 
burning marble (literally). If they are generally 
resorted to, which I believe to be the case, they 
must render essential sanitary service ; for, as far as 
the bath goes, all Christendom is clearly surpassed in 
cleanliness ; since, whereas we may justly flatter 
ourselves that we clean our skin, here they part 
with it. The time of recovery after the hot chambers 
and severe rubbings, when lemonade and coffee and 
pipes are brought in as one lies supine, is very 
agreeable. At four I put myself on board a steamer 
for Therapia. It was a Thames tug, and carried 

D 4 



40 



THEKAPIA. 



one for twopence. The company have now, how- 
ever, a Turkish competition to sustain, and it is 
thought they will have to give way. I find the 
Bosphorus gains immensely by acquaintance with 
its silver reaches, and mosque or tower-capped pro- 
montories. I disembarked near Le Palais d'Angle- 
terre, as the villas of the embassies, as well as their 
town houses, are somewhat ambitiously termed. The 
houses themselves are only of wood, but they have 
pretty gardens and terraces, and enchanting views. 
I walked for some time with Lord Stratford about 
his little domain, for which he seems to entertain 
much real affection. The place was a present from 
the Sultan to the British Government, on account of 
services rendered by Lord Stratford during a Persian 
negotiation. The precincts of the Palace of France, 
which march with the English, and are larger, date 
from the epoch of General Sebastiani and Admiral 
Duckworth. They had been the property of the 
Ipsilanti family. We dined at eight, which is a 
reproduction of London hours on the Bosphorus ; 
but I always think it the true hour of civilisation, 
when both the business and the light of the day are 
at an end. We had only the Mission, Mr. Bobert 
Hay, and Captain Drummond, of the Retribution 
war-steamer, which is moored opposite. His Ex- 



THEKAPIA. 



41 



cellency sat up talking with me till one ; of course I 
do not introduce here the matter of such a conver- 
sation at a time of a great political crisis. I thought 
all that fell from him showed the intelligence and 
high-mindedness one should wish to find in a high 
British functionary ; glad he seemed too, as so many 
of them are, to unbend from the engrossing gravities 
of the moment, among the lighter and more attractive 
recollections of literature. The position Lord Strat- 
ford at this moment holds must be one of almost 
painful responsibilities ; for, as far as I can gather 
from others, the rulers of the country appear to pay 
him a nearly implicit deference, and it has rarely 
happened to any one to be so much, to all human 
appearance, the arbiter of peace and war, and of 
much of the approaching destiny of the human race. 

June 26th. — I went with Mr. Hay on board the 
Retribution for church service. It was remark- 
ably well conducted in all respects; the crew not 
only very attentive, but giving the responses, singing 
the psalms, and even chaunting the hymns. I thought 
it striking, and affecting too, there on the blue waters 
of the far Bosphorus, catching now a bit of Asia, now 
a bit of Europe, through the open port-holes, with 
one's knees pressing against the burnished side of a 
powerful cannon, amidst the still and composed files 



42 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



of sailors and marines, to hear the melodies of our 
simple parish service, and the meek words of the 
Gospel of peace. We went over the ship afterwards, 
a very fine one of twenty-eight guns. I returned to 
the capital in a very luxurious caique, rowed by 
three boatmen, which makes the prettiest imaginable 
water equipage. I stopped to leave some orders 
with the captain of the Caradoc, Lieutenant Derri- 
man, whom it is impossible not thoroughly to like 
even at first sight, and I was then very nearly 
tempted to run down with him to the fleet at Besika 
Bay. Dined at the hotel. The departures and ad- 
ditions give variety and animation to the company. 
I think our young countrymen show well, and are, 
for the most part, manly, intelligent, and well-bred. 
I believe it to be tolerably obvious at present that 
there is no immediate prospect of war : the Turks 
will not consider the occupation of the Principalities 
a necessary, although a justifiable casus helli, and the 
other four Powers will attempt a mediation. It is 
thought that the Turks would really be well pleased 
to have war. 

June 27th. — At half-past five I sallied out with 
my laquais de place, Dimitri, crossed the water to 
Scutari, took horses, and rode up the high hill of 
Bulgurlu beyond it. The view is one of the best 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



43 



possible of this transcendent site : there were the blue 
windings of the Bosphorus, the white towers of the 
corresponding castles of Rumelia and Anatolia in 
Europe and Asia, the whole gleaming stretch and 
swell of the Great City, the point of the old Chal- 
cedon, and the soft smooth expanse of Marmora, 
dotted with islands, and lined with the ridges of re- 
ceding Asia : the snowy top of the Mysian Olympus 
was barely visible. Later in the day I went to the 
top of the Tower of Galata, of Genoese construction, 
which must be almost the best view of the immediate 
panorama. I learn that the population of the town, 
including the villages on the Bosphorus, is about 
750,000, and may be divided into about 240,000 
Turks, 300,000 Greeks, 200,000 Armenians, 10,000 
Jews and Franks. I had brought letters to Dr. 
Sandwith, who is a physician here, for the present 
a correspondent to the " Times," above all, a York- 
shireman. He very sensibly told me, that if even I 
did dine at any great repast given by some Turkish 
Pasha or minister, I should probably only find a 
reproduction of European customs, knives and forks, 
&c. ; so he undertook to show me a genuine Turkish 
house and dinner. "We went to-day ; our host was 
the chief physician of the Sultan. We arrived at his 
house in Scutari about half an hour before sunset ; 



44 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



and as we could not dine during the Eamazan till 
after it, neither food nor pipes being allowed between 
the rising and setting sun, we sat in the garden with 
our host, who, not in good keeping with his art, 
plied us with unripe fruits. A young Circassian 
girl, of about twelve, and so not of an age to prevent 
her appearing before Franks, was sent from the 
Seraglio, that the state of her health might be ex- 
amined. At last the cannon fired: — 

w Hark ! peal'd the thunder of the evening gun $ 
It told 'twas sunset, and we hlessd that sun." 

Corsair. 

There was quite a rush to the meal. The party 
amounted to nine : there was a Priest or Imaun in 
a violet robe; but the person who was the best 
dressed, and seemed to be made most of, was a per- 
fectly black gentleman from the Seraglio. Our host 
talked some French ; the rest nothing but Turkish, 
in which Dr. Sandwith is very fluent. All sat down 
on low cushions upon their legs : this I could not 
quite effect, but managed to stow mine under the 
small low round table. Upon this was placed a 
brass or copper salver, and upon this again the dishes 
of food in very quick and most copious succession : 
we all helped ourselves with our right hands, except 
that just for the soup we had wooden spoons: this is 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



45 



not quite so offensive as it sounds, since they hardly 
take more than one or two mouthfuls in each dish 
from the part immediately opposite them, so the 
hands do not mingle in the platter : it seems to me, 
however, that the first advance in Turkish civilisation 
to which we may look forward will be the use of 
spoons, and then, through succeeding epochs, to 
knives and folks,— 

The diapason ending full in plates, 

I must say that I thought the fare itself very good, 
consisting in large proportion of vegetables, pastry, 
and condiments, but exhibiting a degree of resource 
and variety not unworthy of study by the unadven- 
turous cookery of Britain. We drank sherbets and 
water. Some of the company had become so ravenous 
for their pipes after the long abstinence of the day, 
that they could not sit out the meal. We transferred 
ourselves to another room, where we all tucked up 
our legs on the divan, which, however, soon gave me 
the cramp ; but I was kindly encouraged to stretch 
out my feet. This portion of the evening was very 
long, as coffee and pipes were incessantly brought in : 
occasional relief was effected by the black gentleman 
condescending to sing, with rather a cracked voice, 
to a tambourine. I was given to understand that he 



46 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



was one of the Sultan's favourite musicians. Our 
host talked with regard of the Sultan, and seemed 
much pleased by his having assured him that he 
might treat him quite fearlessly, and not be afraid 
of the responsibility. Dr. Sandwith appeared to 
think this was not wholly a superfluous recommend- 
ation, as lately our friend had called him into a con- 
sultation upon the rather grave case of some Pasha, 
and upon Dr. S. advising some calomel or other effi- 
cient treatment, his Turkish colleague expostulated, 
66 Oh, but this is a very great man." All were ex- 
tremely courteous to me, and wished to impress upon 
me the great military ardour that now exists against 
the Russians, not at all relishing the opinion I ex- 
pressed that there would be no actual war at present ; 
upon which our host pertinently inquired, " Will the 
Russians, then, pay our expenses ? " Upon our 
return home, it was a very pleasant transition from 
the divan and pipes to the caique on the perfectly 
smooth Bosphorus, under the still sky, with all the 
minarets of the wide city around illuminated for the 
Ramazan, and a military band playing under one of 
the Sultan's kiosks or pavilions. 

June 28th. — At eight I set off with Sir Charles 
O'Donnell, Mr. Walsh, and Captain Evans (the two 
last young Englishmen whom I have met here, very 



BROUSSA. 



47 



good specimens of the race) on board a Turkish 
steamer, which took us in five hours and a half to 
Moodania, on the Sea of Marmora; here, after a 
sharp contention for us, we, with the addition of a 
French architect, who joined our party, were all 
mounted on horseback. I had a very pleasant pony, 
and felt the comfort of having brought my English 
saddle. The ride to Broussa, our destination, of five 
hours and a half, was one of the most beautiful I have 
ever known. It starts upon a most fertile neck of 
land, with charming views over the Sea of Marmora 
and its encircling hills ; then, on passing over a low 
ascent, Broussa opens upon you in the most striking 
manner, and every step of the approach grows more 
attractive : it rises from a plain covered with groves 
of plane and cypress, and terraces of vines, fig-trees, 
and mulberries, and by almost every tree, and from 
every tuft, springs up a white minaret; all this 
climbs up the angles of sharp rocks and jutting pre- 
cipices at the base of Mount Olympus, — not the 
Hellenic Olympus of the gods, but the Mysian or 
Bithynian hill of the same name. As we rode in 
under the most glowing sunset in the customary sky 
of Asia Minor, while the vivid green of the tiers of 
mulberry and the dark hue of the cypress were 
blending themselves under the radiant azure of the 



48 



BKOUSSA. 



sky, and the cliffs growing rosier every moment 
beneath the parting ray, the effect was very magical 
and thoroughly eastern. I stoop to mention that we 
found the hotel of Mount Olympus a good house, 
with a very fair cook, and an obliging Italian host. 
There was a late table d'hote, with three or four 
more Frenchmen, one of whom had found the warm 
sulphur baths here very serviceable to his health. 

June 29th. — Before breakfast, I took one of the 
said baths; they are uncommonly clean and well- 
served. Most of the process is the same as at Con- 
stantinople, but there are some specialties here: I 
sat for ten minutes in a sulphur-chamber at a tem- 
perature of 118° Fahrenheit ; it, in fact, bears the 
local name of the Gehenna or Hell. Afterwards 
there is a delightful large basin of natural fresh warm 
water. Broussa is not without its historical dignities ; 
here, probably, Hannibal awaited the waking of the 
Bithynian king; whether it derives its name from 
Prusias, or whether that was an individual or a 
dynastic name, I do not venture to pronounce : here 
Pliny noted the early progress of Christianity : here 
Abd-el-Kader has now his assigned abode. Our 
consul, Mr. Sanderson, after introducing us to his 
own handsome family, took us to the house of the 
Arab Emir ; it is a very unpretending one : he gave 



BROUSSA. 



49 



us a very prompt reception. He is said to be about 
forty-six, and certainly does not appear to be more ; 
is not positively handsome, but looks eminently well- 
conditioned; and his manners have much graceful 
dignity and self-possession. He spoke with much 
esteem — highly natural and just on his part — of 
Lord Londonderry. I thought he showed great in- 
terest in his inquiries concerning the present position 
of the Turkish question. I am told that he considers 
himself under engagement only not to fight against 
the French. Altogether, his manner to us was very 
civil, even cordial ; he sent for the sword which the 
Emperor Napoleon had given him, which I left to 
our military companion Sir Charles O'Donnell to 
unsheath; but what we were told ought quite to 
turn our heads is, that we were served with pipes, 
coffee, and sherbet, notwithstanding the Eamazan. 
The mosques here are said to be even more numerous 
than at Constantinople ; we went to two or three of 
the most conspicuous, taking off our shoes on enter- 
ing. They were in great part built by the pre-Con- 
stantinopolitan sultans, and are thought to exhibit 
specimens of much purer Oriental architecture than 
those of the capital; they have, on the whole, an 
imposing simplicity: there is a fine tomb of Ma- 
homet I. ; another of Orchan, the son of Othman, 

E 



50 



BROUSSA. 



and chief organiser of tiie victorious Ottoman armies. 
We shopped a little in the bazaars, and bought some 
Broussa linen, which is of very soft and absorbent 
quality, for towels, &c. Their manufacture of silk 
is very extensive. After our dinner we mounted our 
horses for our return journey by twilight, and for 
some time our eyes reverted to Broussa, with its 
minarets gleaming for their Ramazan illumination 
on its steep hill-side. We had all much enjoyed our 
expedition : our ride back, under the silent stars, 
was, of course, comparatively cool ; some places 
appeared steeper than they had done in the blaze of 
day; but our cavalry carried us very safely, and a 
late half-moon lit us into Moodania shortly before 
three. Here we laid ourselves down for an hour in 
a very rough and crowded reception-room at the 
small coffee-house. 

June 30th. — But not so crowded as the return- 
steamer, which took us up at four : the deck was 
entirely covered with Turkish troops, either recruits, 
or belonging to the redif, or reserve, consisting of 
those who have already served, whom the State calls 
out upon any emergency. I found myself treading 
on a recumbent Turkish colonel, who, however, was 
either very sleepy or very acquiescent. We took 
refuge for the six hours of voyage in the cabin, which 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



51 



was nearly empty. Constantinople looked very im- 
posing as we turned the Seraglio Point into the 
Golden Horn. I find it grows enormously upon me, 
which is always the case where real beauty is con- 
cerned : at first I own to having thought that the 
successive tiers of brown wooden houses, especially 
in Pera, had a dingy effect ; however, when the eye 
has learned to acquiesce in the drawbacks of a spot, 
it thenceforth allows itself to feed undistracted on its 
glories. I was not disposed to do much after our 
night-march, and I found a post from England. 
Lords Carnarvon and Sandon had arrived at the 
hotel from a Syrian expedition. 

July 1st. — I went with them in a caique to see the 
Sultan make his usual Friday embarkation to visit 
one of the mosques. It is a very pretty water- 
pageant, formed of four large and three smaller 
richly gilded barges. The Sultan sits under a rich 
canopy : I think there are twenty-two oars in his 
boat. All the forts on the shore and the Turkish 
vessels give thundering salutes. Very few people 
came out to see it : how different it would be on the 
Thames if Queen Victoria took to boating in state ! 
I shopped at the bazaars, but it was not a judicious 
day for it, as few of the Turks open their shops on 
Friday. Went to look at the commencement of the 

E 2 



52 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



maps which Captain Glasscock is executing for the 
mixed commission, to define the boundaries between 
Persia and Turkey in Asia. They have all the 
nicety of execution of our Ordnance Survey. After 
dinner went with Dr. Sandwith to another garden, 
where there is music, and ices under trees ; but it is 
a murky spot compared with the Volksgarten at 
Vienna, — how murky compared with the Plaza di 
Armas at the Havana ! 

July 2nd. — This was the day for which I had 
procured a Firman to see the chief public buildings. 
As the whole process, with fees and presents, amounts 
to about ten pounds, it is usual to collect a large 
party to divide the costs. We were tolerably nume- 
rous, and I had invited the officers of the Retribution 
and the Niger, who came in good force. Just as we 
were starting, a Russian gentleman sent up a request 
to be allowed to join us: I thought this slightly 
perplexing, as the Turks might not have approved at 
this moment of such a foot in their most sacred 
places ; but I thought that the proper law of courtesy 
between all fellow-travellers was on his side. For 
details on this, as on all other such occasions, I refer 
to previous describers and handbooks, and only 
concern myself with prominent impressions. We 
first went over the Seraglio : it has some large rooms 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



53 



with pretty and gay decorations, superior in them- 
selves to the Brighton Pavilion in its royal days, and 
with its own unparalleled view. The arm-chair of 
the Sultan, when he comes here, which is seldom, 
commands both the Bosphorus and Sea of Marmora. 
There is one very enjoyable apartment, called, they 
told us, the cool-room, on a low level, entirely of 
marble, with fountains in the midst. The terraces 
and gardens might be lovely with English keeping. 
They gave me a nosegay of pinks and geraniums. 
We saw the old Throne of State, and the orating; 
through which alone the ambassadors were for- 
merly allowed to communicate Avith the Sultan in 
the big days of Turkey ; the armoury also, ancient 
and modern, the first very inferior to Count Zichy's 
collection at Vienna : they show what they say was 
the mace of Mahomet II., the Feti or Conqueror. 
The present Sultan has not lived here ; indeed, there 
is a sort of rule that no sultan should inhabit this 
palace unless he has made an addition to the national 
territory by conquests. We then went to St. Sophia. 
This is the real sight of Constantinople, — the point 
round which so much of history, so much of regret, 
so much of anticipation, ever centre. Within that 
precinct Constantine, Theodosius, Justinian wor- 
shipped, and Chrysostom preached, and, most affect- 

E 3 



54 



CONSTANTINOPLE. ST. SOPHIA. 



ing reminiscence of all, the last Constantine received 
the Christian sacrament upon the night that pre- 
ceded his own heroic death, the capture of the im- 
perial city, and the conquest of the Crescent over 
the Cross. Apart even from all associated interest, 
I was profoundly struck with the general appearance 
and effect of the building itself, — the bold simplicity 
of plan — the noble span of the w^icle low cupola, 
measuring, in its diameter, 115 feet — the gilded 
roofs — the mines of marble which encrust the walls, 
— that porphyry was from the Temple of the Sun at 
Baalbec, — that verde-antique was from the Temple 
of Diana at Ej)hesus. How many different strains 
have they not echoed ? The hymn to the Latoidae ! 
The chaunt to the Virgin ! The Muezzin's call from 
the minaret ! Yes ; and Iioav long shall that call 
continue ? Are the lines marked along the pavement, 
and seats, and pulpits, always to retain their distorted 
position, because they must not front the original 
place of the Christian high-altar to the East, but 
must be turned in the exact direction of Mecca? 
Must we always dimly trace in the overlaying fret- 
work of gold the obliterated features of the Re- 
deemer ? This is all assuredly forbidden by 
copious and cogent, even if by conflicting causes, — 
by old Greek memories — by young Greek aspir- 



CONSTANTINOPLE. ST. SOPHIA. 55 

ations — by the ambition of states and sovereigns — 
by the sympathy of Christendom — by the sure word 
of prophecy. One reflection presents itself to retard, 
if not to damp, the impatience which it is impossible 
not to feel within these august and storied walls. If 
politicians find that the great objection to the disso- 
lution of the Turkish empire is the difficulty of find- 
ing its substitute, does not something of the same 
difficulty present itself to the ardour of Christian 
zeal ? Amidst all the imposture, the fanaticism, the 
sensuality of the Mahommedan faith, still, as far as 
its ordinary outward forms of worship meet the eye, 
it wears a striking appearance of simplicity : you 
see in their mosques many worshippers engaged in 
solitary prayer ; you see attentive circles sitting 
round the teacher or Imaun, who is engaged in read- 
ing or expounding the Koran ; but there is an almost 
entire absence of what we have heard termed the 
histrionic methods of worship. Now, it is difficult 
to take one's stand under the massive cupola of St. 
Sophia, without, in fancy, seeing the great portals 
thrown open, and the long procession of priests 
advance, with mitre, and banner, and crucifix, and 
clouds of incense, and blaze of torches, and bursts of 
harmony, and lustral sprinklings, and low prostra- 
tions. It may not, however, be unattainable in the 

E 4 



56 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



righteous providence of God, that when Christianity 
re-establishes her own domain here, it shall be with 
the blessed accompaniments of a purer ritual and 
more spiritual worship. 

We also saw the mosques of Sultan A cl ime d, 
which has six beautiful minarets, and is, I believe, 
the only mosque in the Ottoman Empire which has 
so many ; and of Solyman the Magnificent, called 
the Suleimanye, which has noble dimensions, and 
four enormous red columns. Then there were two 
mausoleums of Solyman and the late Sultan 
Mahmoud, in the pattern of which last I recognised 
a great likeness to our own at Castle Howard. Be- 
sides this, we stood in the famous Hippodrome, the 
repeated scene of Byzantine faction and frivolity, and 
looked at its Egyptian obelisk and brazen pillar. The 
day's work is a somewhat fatiguing one, chiefly from 
the atrocious pavement in the streets : and I should 
recommend any ladies who undertake it to be con- 
tent with the Seraglio, St. Sophia, Sultan Achmed, 
and the Hippodrome. Some of us sought refreshment 
afterwards in the large Turkish bath of Stamboul 
Proper, which has itself a very sightly show of 
marble. I dined on board the Niger steamer with 
Captain Heath, where I met two French and one 
Dutch captain. As Captain H. gave the Queen's 
health after dinner, I thought it right to propose 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



57 



" aux drapeaux unis de la civilisation Europeenne." 
It turned out that we were most happily placed on 
this occasion : it was the night which announces the 
near approach of the Bairam, the great festival at the 
termination of the Ramazan, and a large illumination 
takes place on the waters of the Golden Horn. The 
Sultan comes down in his state barges : there is a 
refulgent display of red and blue light on ships 
and shores, and the effect in such a locality is most 
brilliant. It only occurs to one that the repeated 
discharges of artillery are not very well timed, while 
the Treasury is extremely ill able to cope with the 
current expenses for the national defence. I thought 
it was a very obvious road from the landing-place at 
Tophane to the hotel; but I missed it: and as I 
have not acquired any knowledge of Turkish, and 
one is liable to arrest if found in the streets at night 
without a light, I was very glad when I at last 
arrived. 

July 3rd. — I went with Lord Sandon to church, 
which is held in a small room at the Embassy. 
Our Government has not yet supplied any funds 
for the erection of a regular church, which would 
certainly be a becoming adjunct to the Ambassador's 
dwelling-house, on which such an enormous sum has 
been laid out. The service was well performed by 



58 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



the chaplain, Mr. Blakiston. We stayed for the 
Sacrament : one feels additional value for the rite 
in a far land. Lord Carnarvon has been laid up 
from the effects of an approach to coup-de-soleil. 
To-day was extremely warm, and I barely went 
out ; chiefly wrote this journal. The conversation 
at our hotel dinner-table is frequently full of good 
information : we have engineers of railways, workers 
of collieries, agents of steam companies ; some very 
intelligent men, from our North country. All agree 
respecting the resources of this empire being alike 
immense and undeveloped: they consider them to 
have both these attributes in the highest decree in 
Bosnia. The Bosnians formed the latest accession to 
the Mahommedan faith, and they are now its most 
bigoted adherents. Their country was also the last 
hold of feudalism; and Omer Pasha distinguished 
himself in the war which the Porte waged to sup- 
press it. 

July 4th. — I was ready very soon after four this 
morning to ride with Dr. Sandwith. On first leaving 
the gates of the town, wide, brown, unenclosed hills 
and hollows present themselves ; scattered amongst 
them are low stone pillars, which indicate the reach 
of the late Sultan Mahmoud's spear; his successor 
does not indulge in such athletic exercises. We 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



59 



went on to the Sweet Waters of Europe, rather a 
pretty dell in the hills above the Golden Horn, but 
of which we might find many in our own counties : 
in the early spring, when the grass is green, — a sight 
I have of course not seen in Turkey, — and the ladies 
of the capital make it their carriage drive, I have 
no doubt that the scene must be gay. At one of the 
city gates we took a cup of coffee amid a train of 
camels, the first I had seen, and poor-looking animals 
they were. We then rode along the length of the 
old triple walls, which are very picturesque with 
their occasional rents and many inserted trees. This 
is the quarter of the market gardens, which are 
cultivated by Greeks. Every day one sees more that 
the industry of the empire is mainly in Christian 
hands; much, however, of the interior agriculture 
is carried on by the Turks. We re-entered the town 
by the Seven Towers, no longer formidable, or Prince 
Menchikoff might have been their tenant. Later 
in the day I acquired some good photographs of the 
buildings here, by Mr. Robertson, who holds an 
office in the Imperial mint. Several officers from 
the Niger were at our dinner. 

July 5th. — I gave most of my day to the eleventh 
volume of Grote's admirable " History of Greece," 
and read on the spot of the siege of Byzantium by 



60 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



Philip of Maceclon. Lords Carnarvon and Sandon 
went away : they are very favourable types of 
English aristocracy. In my walk I came to rather 
an interesting spot, the burial-place of the Franks. 
It has no enclosure, but that is common to most 
Turkish cemeteries. Most of the English tombs are 
those of engineers, who have probably come out with 
steam-boats. 

July 6th. — Breakfasted with Dr. Sandwith ; the 
chief object was to meet a Wallachian of great intel- 
ligence and distinguished birth : he was of too liberal 
tendencies to please the Russians, so they induced 
the Turks to forbid him to remain at home. There 
was also our vice-consul, Mr. Skene, son of Sir 
Walter Scott's friend, evidently a very intelligent 
and well-informed man. The conversation gave me 
much instruction respecting the characters and 
feelings of the different populations. The Walla- 
chian was excessively anti-Russian and anti-Greek ; 
the Greeks he considers far worse and more hateful 
to the other races than the Turks themselves. He 
conceives that the Emperor of Russia's feelings, and 
those of the now dominant party in Russia, which 
override at this moment even his, point mainly to a 
Panslavonic fusion. He himself would naturally 
like a larg^, Roman or Latin fusion, comprising 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



61 



TVallachia, Moldavia, Bessarabia, and possibly more. 
In the meanwhile, he does not give a flattering 
portrait of society in those parts. The Bohemians 
or gypsies are actually slaves, but their condition 
is, on the whole, preferable to that of the predial 
inhabitants, who cannot be parted from the soil, and 
from whom only a certain number of days' labour is 
legally due ; but this is grossly infringed upon. On 
the whole, the more I learn, the more difficult I find 
it not merely to foresee, but to shape even in wish, 
the future. Later Dr. S. took me to a Maltese artist, 
Preciosa, who takes admirable views of the place 
and people. Dined on board the steamer Caradoc, 
with Lieut. Derriman, and met Lord Edward 
Russell, Lord Arthur Lennox, Captain Carter, all of 
whom he had brought up from the fleet. To-night 
the Kamazan ended : 

" To-night set Ramazani's sun, 
To-night the Bairam's feast 's begun." 

Giaoxii . 

July 7th. — At about half-past two a.m. there 
were thundering salutes to announce the festival of 
the Bairam, which lasts for three days upon the ex- 
piration of the month of fasting. At half-past three 
a large party set off from the hotel ; we were rowed 
by the boats of the Niger over the Golden Horn 



62 



CONSTANTINOPLE. BAIRAM. 



blushing under the opening dawn, and with the 
earliest ray of the sun we were in the large court of 
the Seraglio to see the procession of the Sultan to the 
mosque of Sultan Achmed. We were placed in a 
house commanding the gateway from very conve- 
nient windows: the sight was very pretty; there 
were a number of led horses w T ith rich caparisons ; 
then a long succession of officers of state. Pashas, 
and the Ministers, all mounted ; then the pages on 
foot immediately preceding the Sultan, wearing 
gorgeous feathers of white ostrich, with a stiff green 
cone, which I am told are relics of the Byzantine 
imperial wardrobe ; then the Sultan himself on 
horseback, in his plume, fez, and diamond agraffe, 
and long blue cloak, just as he is painted in Sir David 
Wilkie's picture in the corridor at Windsor. He 
looks pale, old for his age (about thirty-one, I believe), 
and he has lately grown corpulent : the impression 
his aspect conveys is of a man, gentle, unassuming, 
feeble, unstrung, doomed ; no energy of purpose 
gleamed in that passive glance ; no augury of victory 
sat on that still brow. How different from the mien 
of the Emperor of Austria as he rode at the head of 
his cohorts, though that may not have had any 
special moral significance. The Sultan looked like 
Richard II. riding past ; Bolingbroke, however, has 



CONSTANTINOPLE. BAIRAM. 



63 



not yet arrived. The French ambassador, M. De 
la Cour, and several ladies, arrived too late for the 
exit of the procession, bnt saw its return : Lord 
Stratford did not come 3 but we had his interpreter, 
and an imposing array of four cavasses, a sort of 
armed policemen. We were then transferred to the 
interior court. Here the Sultan takes his place on a 
gold or gilded couch; the Sheik Islam, or head of 
the Church, and a descendant of the prophet from 
Mecca, offer up a short prayer, and then in 
succession the whole Ottoman array of dignitaries 
and officers file before him: the first few of the 
highest grade kiss his foot while he stands ; he then 
sits down, and the great bulk of military and civil 
employes only kiss the tassel of the couch; the 
cadis (judges), ulemas (professors of law), and muftis 
(much the same) kiss the hem of his garment. The 
Sultan's band played marches and airs all the time, 
chiefly from the Semiramide, and extremely well. 
The sight was extremely picturesque, somewhat 
barbaric, highly suggestive; — picturesque, from the 
variety and brilliancy of costume, the gleaming of 
uniforms, the clash of music under the dark rich 
green of the cypresses, and the quaintness of the 
surrounding architecture ; barbaric, from the idol- 
atrous forms of prostration; suggestive, from the 



64 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



thought that always follows me here, from minaret 
to minaret, from one silver sea to another, €£ How 
long ? " We got back at eight A. M., rather feeling as 
if we had gone through a long day. In the afternoon 
I went up the Bosphorus in a caique with Sir 
Charles O'Donnell to dine with the ambassador : we 
had the Belgian minister, M. Blondel, and the 
English staff. In the garden afterwards we found 
the Armenian Secretary of Rescind Pasha, who 
possesses all his confidence : he was precisely one's 
idea of le Pere Joseph with Cardinal Richelieu. 
Lord S. has advanced his dinner hour to four. We 
had a delicious evening for our return down the 
Bosphorus, but were both very sleepy. 

July 8th. — I left the hotel at Pera, satisfied with 
the time I had spent there, but clearly with a 
feeling of deliverance at escaping further ascents of 
the long hill from the landing-place at Tophane. 
Owing to the Bairam, I could not get a caique, and 
the steamers would have been too late for Lord 
Stratford's dinner hour; so I got horses, and rode 
with my good laquais de place, Dimitri. As soon as 
you are well out of the city, the country is precisely 
like what the neighbourhood of Brighton would be, 
if every vestige of green was completely burned up ; 
but then you come out upon the height before 



THERAPIA. 



65 



descending to Therapia, and you see the azure belt 
of the Bosphorus, interlacing village, and promontory, 
and gleaming fortress, and gay kiosk, and then 
opening upon the wide expanse of the Euxine. On 
my arrival I found no dearth of events. A Tatar 
courier had arrived the day before, in three days 
from the Danube (a good journey of 500 miles for 
one man on horseback), with the intelligence that the 
Russians had entered Moldavia with 80,000 men. 
Bolingbroke seems on his road. On the same after- 
noon, the Sultan had turned out his ministers. It 
came on them entirely by surprise, and they had no 
idea of it when we saw them engaged in kissing 
their master's feet. The kick they have received was 
not a physical one, but it is oddly timed at this 
moment of crisis. As far as I can collect, no one has 
any idea of the causes — whether they proceed from 
Russian intrigue, or merely from a drunken caprice, 
for such things are supposed to have happened 
before. I imagine that Reschid Pasha is a man not 
easily to be replaced just now, though no model of 
incorruptibility in money affairs. We had several of 
the officers now here from the fleet at dinneiv 
Lord Stratford's band played afterwards very 
prettily: it comes twice a week, and has the best 

F 



68 



THE GOLDEN HORN. 



effect amid the summer garden and twilight waters. 
I slept at the ambassador's. 

July 9 th. — I walked to Buyukdere, and returned 
in a caique. I should not think it so pleasant a 
residence as Therapia, as, being in a bay, it has not 
so much of the freshness or clearness of the full 
current. Lord Stratford returned from an interview 
with the Sultan, and reported the recall of the 
Turkish ministers, except the Grand Vizier. After 
dinner, I was rowed down with some naval captains 
in the boat of the Retribution to the Caradoc 
steamer, which was to take us to the fleet. There 
was a scene of great confusion in the Golden Horn, 
not indeed without some peril to us. A drunken 
engineer of a steam-tug (I am sorry to say an 
Englishman) ran the vessel it had in tow, which had 
just been laden with gunpowder, foul of us ; we were 
getting our steam up, and there were the sparks 
flying from both steamers all about this powder 
vessel, which, as it was a Turkish one, might be 
presumed not to be very carefully secured. The 
ambassador's despatches did not arrive on board till 
four in the morning, when we set off. 

July 10th. — I was on deck at five ; both shores of 
the Propontis in sight. Lieutenant Derriman read 
the service on deck. He has one of those frank 



THE HELLESPONT. 



67 



genial natures which secure good will and regard at 
once. 

After passing the island of Marmora, we drew 
near to the Hellespont. This has not the beauty of 
its kindred strait, the Bosphorus, but still it has 
beauty, and even yet more of both classical and 
historical interest. We passed Lampsacus, which 
nearly retains its old name (now Lamsaki) 3 the city 
assigned by the Great King to furnish wine for 
Themistocles ; the mouth of the JEgospotamos, the 
grave of Athenian supremacy ; the Apresus, the 
Practius, and the Selle, which all sent their comple- 
ments to the armies of Troy ; the narrowing channel 
from Sestos to Abydos, swum over by Leander and 
Lord Byron, and probably bridged over by Xerxes, 
and crossed by Alexander and the first Turkish 
invaders of Europe; the modern castles, with the 
embrasures for the big cannon; the reputed tomb 
of Hecuba near the ancient Madytus, and all that 
history and song have blended together. Who, in- 
deed, shall define their precise respective claims to 
those conical green mounds which now began to ap - 
pear, and which of course often set me repeating, 

" Believing every hillock green 

Contains no fabled heroes' ashes, 

F 2 



68 



BESIKA BAY. 



And that around th' undoubted scene, 

Thine own 4 broad Hellespont ' still dashes." 

Bride of Abydos. 

Upon leaving the Straits, the iEgean opens very 
finely : there is the fine craggy outline of Imbros, 
the yet more towering peaks of Samothrace, upon the 
right ; in front, the more modest mound of Tenedos ; 
to the left, the low Trojan strand; and on turning a 
point we discovered in their pride of place the com- 
bined fleets of England and France. We went 
round the extreme point of the French squadron, 
eight sail of the line, drawn up in double row ; then 
down the half of the English, which is in a single 
line of seven sail ; the steamers of each squadron, of 
which ours are the more numerous, lie behind the 
large ships. We stopped opposite the Britannia, the 
flag-ship of Admiral Dundas, by whom I was received 
on board with more than cordiality and hospitality. 

July 11 1 h. — We heard this morning that Admiral 
de la Susse, who commands the French squadron, is 
about to be immediately superseded by Admiral 
Hamelin. As he is past sixty-five, he has turned 
the limit of age now allowed in the French navy. 
Our Admiral has seen much of him, and likes him. 
Several of our captains came on board, and the 
animation of the large fleet amused me much, though 



BESIKA BAY. 



69 



those who compose it complain of great monotony 
in Besika Bay. They have now been here a month. 
I went twice on shore, before and after dinner, to 
the watering places : one of these is at the mouth of 
what they tell me is the Scamander.* I was glad to 
find the water extremely clear, that first attribute 
of the beauty of rivers, to say nothing of its being 
desirable for the supply of the ships : the breadth 
of the immortal stream is about five feet, and one 
can easily understand how its waters were insufficient 
for the army of Xerxes, and also how the Hellespont 
came to be called broad. A sort of extempore town 
has sprung up, with shops for potations, pipes, Per- 
sian carpets, and what Achilles would certainly not 
have found on the Scamander, pates of foie gras. 
We had some captains of steamers at dinner, fine 
intelligent men. The Admiral's turtle and Berkshire 
mutton made, one may feel sure, a more sumptuous 
meal than ever was served in the tent of the King of 
Men. Admiral Hamelin arrived this evening. 

July 12th. — Our Admiral paid him a visit, which 
he immediately returned. We hear from others that 
the real reason of his predecessor being recalled was 
his allowing our fleet to arrive here from Malta 

* I will reserve all inquiry into the right to the appellation, 
till I have to deal with the whole site of Troy. 

J? 3 



70 



BESIKA BAY. 



before the French fleet from Salamis. The orders, 
I believe, left Paris and London at the same time, 
on the evening of the 2nd of June. The Caradoc 
received them at Marseilles, delivered them at Malta, 
and came on with a despatch for Lord Stratford, 
which reached him on the 11th. The fleet, mainly 
by the use of its steamers, anchored in Besika Bay 
on the 13th; Admiral de la Susse, who had not 
made the same use of steam, arrived on the 14th. 
It is also said that he waited a day longer at Athens 
to receive the Order of the Saviour from the King of 
Greece. I went over our own ship ; it is very 
gratifying to see so fine and cheerful-looking a crew, 
and all possible provision seems made for their well- 
being, — air, good food, books, instruction, a band of 
music. I have set myself a book of the Iliad to read 
every day, and am glad to find, after such long 
disuse, how well I get on without dictionary, note, 
or translation. We had a large party at dinner, 
including no fewer than four French admirals, which 
is reckoned at least as rare an assemblage as the 
three kings with the Black Prince. They were, 
Admirals de la Susse, Hamelin, Jacquenot, Eomain 
des Fosses ; the last very like Lord Hardinge. 

July \Wu — No event in the morning; there is 
enough breeze to make visiting from one ship to 



THE HELLESPONT. 



71 



another unpleasant. We dined with Captain Graham 
on board the Rodney ; we had the five admirals, a 
very pleasing Vicomte de Chabannes, who commands 
the screw-ship Charlemagne, and others of both 
services. There was no lack of the equal feast, and 
especially of every variety of beverage. Nothing 
can exceed the appearance of harmony between the 
services. The half-moon lit the sea very prettily 
for our return. 

July Will. — At half-past eight started with the 
Admiral and almost all the captains in his fleet on 
board the Caradoc, to take a reconnoitring cruise 
through the Dardanelles. We turned round at Galli- 
poli, and on our return stopped at the castle in the 
small town of the Dardanelles, on the Asiatic side, 
where we were very courteously received by the 
military governor, who gave us the usual pipes, 
coffee, and sherbet. He had a good appearance and 
countenance, but Ave were not very favourably im- 
pressed with his court or army. We looked at the 
great guns, one of which knocked about Admiral 
Duckworth's ship. One of them bears two or three 
marks of the English cannon at the same period ; 
there are seven altogether, with their piles of large 
marble or granite balls ; the bore of the largest is 
thirty-two inches. They are not considered nearly 

F 4 



72 



BESIKA BAY. 



so efficient as those of the usual size, from the diffi- 
culty of pointing and reloading them. We then had 
our picnic repast on board, and the tide of merriment 
flowed almost faster than the current of the Helles- 
pont. There had been one momentary squall in the 
course of the day, and we just saw Helle's tide 

" Roll darkly heaving to the main." 

We got back, however, by a very fine sunset, in 
which the outline of Mount Athos became distinctly 
visible, at a distance of about eighty miles off. At 
night we heard a great number of shots on shore ; 
the flag-lieutenant of our ship went to inquire about 
it. A Greek had been killed ; but whether by 
robbers, or by some of his brother dealers, did not 
seem clear. 

July 15th. — At six I went on board the Albion, 
Captain Lushington's ship ; and, after breakfasting, 
went ashore with him and young Mr. Calvert, the 
consul's brother. We mounted, I on a very pleasant 
pony of the consul's : we rode over about twenty 
miles of the Troad, covered for the most part with 
brushwood, here and there with glades of rather 
small oaks, and with occasional patches of cultivation, 
amidst which we saw some implements, and a thresh- 
ing machine in which the two oxen turn round a 



\ 



TCHIGRI. 73 

wooden frame with flint teeth, which makes the 
straw fly about, all looking as if they might have 
been used in the days of Homer. The cart of the 
country is of wicker, with wooden wheels ; the axle 
turns with them, and creaks horribly. We passed 
three small villages ; near the last of these w^e saw 
seven extremely large granite pillars lying on the 
ground, quite formed, but probably left there owing 
to the difficulty of removal : some inscription had 
been found to show that it had been Roman work. 
It had occurred to us as possible that we might have 
fallen in with some of the robbers of the night before 
— Mount Ida is said to teem with them ; but nothing 
formidable presented itself. TV r e now ascended a 
very precipitous rocky hill. I was rather ashamed 
to find ourselves still on our horses nearly up to the 
top, where we came to a double circuit of fragments 
of very thick walls made of immense stones, enclos- 
ing a great space, evidently built over formerly, and 
spreading over two or three of the neighbouring 
summits : they call the ruins those of a Pelasgic 
town, and they now bear the name of Tchigri ; it is 
not far from what is marked in the maps as Palss 
Scepsis, the older or original Scepsis. It has been 
supposed that it might be the same as Kenkrece, 
which is mentioned by a Byzantine author as a 



74 



TCHIGRI. 



citadel in the neighbourhood of the Scamancler, 
which served as a place of refuge from the Turkish 
inroads before the capture of Constantinople. Is it 
just possible that it might have been Dardania, the 
precursor of Troy, placed among the lower heights 
of Ida, before Troy itself was founded on the com- 
parative plain below? The more recent town of 
Dardanus might have been another off-shoot. 

Kriaae Ss Aapdavn)v^ eirtl ovttu) "lXiog \prf 

'Ev TriS'iit) 7re~6\i<rrc>i 7t6Xlq fispoTrujv avPpwTnov, 

'AXX' t9' vTTOJpdag qiKtov iroXwrnCctKov "ldrjg. 

Y. 216.* 

But whether it rightly belonged to Pelasgians, Cy- 
clopeans, Greeks, Trojans, Phrygians, Mysians, or 
Dardans fighting close at hand, it would probably 
be quite vain to speculate. TTe found remains of 
walls and steps, and picked up some small bits of 
pottery. Mr. Calvert says, very few travellers have 
found their way up. Notwithstanding our recent 
experience, it is difficult to conceive how the in- 
habitants can have made any use of their horses ; they 
must have probably depended upon tanks for their 
supply of water. The view from the highest point 

* " Dardania' s walls he raised, for Ilion then 
(The city since of many-languaged men) 
Was not. The natives were content to till 
The shady feet of Ida's fountful hill." — PorE, 



BESIKA BAY, 



75 



was very imposing ; we looked upon the whole wide 
plain of Troy, to which the scattered trees give the 
deceptive look of considerable cultivation; this was 
closed in by Gargarus, the highest peak of Ida; 
before us was the sun-lighted blue of the JEgean, 
with Tenedos looking like a small mole-hill, and 
Samothrace, Imbros, Lemnos, and Lesbos, all fitting 
their places in the more distant outline. The tall 
masts of the fleet were in deep repose, but even as 
we looked, a French man-of-war, the Friedland, 
entered the bay, and we saw the smoke of its salute 
to both Admirals, and their replies. I took the 
liberty, on this spur of Ida, of imitating the example 
often recorded of Jupiter on its summit, by going to 
sleep. We scrambled down the hill on our feet, and 
were extremely glad, after our ride back, to reach 
the strand, and then the hospitality of the Albion, 
by sunset. Admiral de la Susse had gone away in 
the morning. The crews of both fleets had given 
him cheers. 

July 16th. — I paid visits to the SanspareiP, 
Albion f, Vengeance J, and Arethusa.§ I think I 
was most pleased with the last, as a ship. I was 
glad to remain quiet all day, after the expedition to 

* Captain Dacres. f Captain Lushington. 

% Lord Edward Russell. § Captain Symonds. 



76 



BESIKA BAY. 



Tchigri. There was a party of captains to dinner. 
I went to the wardroom of this ship afterwards, and 
found very pleasant company. 

July nth. — Service was very well performed; 
about 700 present. The admiral, very properly, 
dines quietly on Sunday, and the band does not play 
on board of his ship. After dinner I called on the 
three French admirals, who all received me very 
politely. I did not see the ships in detail ; but they 
seemed models of cleanliness and good order. The 
use of the white pine of Corsica for the flooring of 
the decks contributes to the look of excessive neat- 
ness. It is one of our criticisms, that they sacrifice 
too much of the time and ease of the men to the ex- 
cessive appearance of cleanliness and polish. 

July 18th. — Setoff again with Captain Lushington 
at six ; found our horses at the watering-place by 
the Scamander ; soon afterwards crossed the Simois, 
and rode twelve miles to a country house of our 
consul, Mr. Calvert. This was over the northern 
part of the Troad — through a much more cultivated 
and cheerful country than we had seen. We found 
the consul's house, — one formerly inhabited by a 
Turkish Aga, in the midst of the small village of 
Eren-keuy, — airy and spacious enough in itself, with 
a very wide and glorious view over the Hellespont, 



EREN-KEUY. 



77 



the -ZEgean, and the islands, — all the waters in intense 
blue. I was very greatly pleased with my host 
Besides this villa, he has two large farms, one in the 
Chersonese, on the European side, the other on the 
plain of Troy, — the last of 3000 acres. He holds 
them in the name of his wife, as the Turkish law 
does not allow males, not Mussulmen, to hold land. 
This example may possibly lead to a relaxation of 
this rule : the payment due to the State is a land- 
tax of about ten pounds a-year, and a tithe of the 
produce ; under the former proprietor, even the land- 
tax was in arrear, and the tithes nil; in the third 
year of his occupancy, Mr. C.'s tithes alone amounted 
to 1507. He represents the resources of the country, 
both in vegetable and mineral productions, as inex- 
haustible. He can get Turkish labourers for three 
pounds a-year w T ages, besides their keep ; but he 
finds it more profitable to employ Greeks at ten 
pounds a-year : there is the present history of the 
two races. He thinks, very decidedly, that it is the 
best thing for the Christian races themselves to pre- 
serve the existing state of things for the present, till 
their growth has secured its own result. A Turk 
himself had told him the other day that it was be- 
coming inevitable that gradually all the chief em- 
ployments, and the army itself, must be recruited 



78 



THE TROAD. 



from the Christian population ; and then, some day, 
the Ministers would tell the Sultan that he must 
become a Christian, and he would do so. Will it, 
then, be a convert or a conqueror, — a Constantine or 
a Ferdinand *, who will be first crowned in Saint 
Sophia ? 

We left the consul's pleasant abode at about mid- 
day, and very hot we found it at first ; our ride back 
was to carry us by Bounar Bachi, reputed to be the 
most plausible site assigned to ancient Troy. We 
crossed the valley and stream of the Thimbrek, or 
Thymbra, and, on a neighbouring height, some 
marble fragments of ruins, which may be the remains 
of the ancient town and temple of the Thymbrsean 
Apollo ; but neither were we able to converse with 
our guide, nor, if we had been, do I apprehend that 
we should have found him a competent archaeologist. 
We then passed over a portion of the consul's new 
large farm, on the very plain of Troy, where there 
were tokens of incipient operations ; and after again 
fording the Simois at a sylvan spot, we arrived at the 
foot of the gentle slope, on which stands the small 
Turkish village of Bounar Bachi, or, " Head of the 
Spring." As I here found myself upon/ not only 

* See the account of the purification of the Mosques, in Mr. 
Prescott's admirable " Reign of Ferdinand and Isabella." 



TROY. 



79 



the most classical, but also the most controverted site 
in the whole world, I shall be forgiven for dwelling 
upon it with some comparative minuteness.* It will 
be remembered, that the dispute in question, which, 
indeed, has been occasionally conducted with a heat 
and asperity worthy of the combatants in the actual 
siege of Troy, involves the widest conceivable ex- 
tremes ; the assertion on one side being, " This is 
Troy : here were the Sc^ean gates — here the beech 
— here the wild fig-tree : " on the other, " There 
never was any such city as Troy — there never was 
any Trojan war." Between these two points of 
minute identification and absolute scepticism, oscillate 
the pretensions of various other sites, — Novum Ilium, 
as it is now generally called, visited by Xerxes and 
Alexander as the real site of Troy, and received as 
such by probably the larger portion of uninquiring 
antiquity, and some moderns, — Pagus Iliensium, 
wherever it may have been, alleged doubtfully by 
Demetrius of Scepsis and Strabo, — Alexandria 
Troas, by Belon and Bryant, as far as the last will 
admit any site at all, — or relegated by Wood into the 
far defiles of Ida. As I entirely acquiesce in the 

* I have thought it best to comprise in this account the 
results of a second more leisurely inspection and some subse- 
quent consideration. 



80 



TROY. 



reasonings originally established by Chevalier, and 
subsequently defended with great ability by Morritt, 
in behalf of Bounar Bachi, I will first, for a moment, 
advert to the only points that, as far as I can see, 
may be plausibly urged against them : — 

1. The position is too far from the sea; and espe- 
cially so with a view to all that is alleged to have 
taken place in the movements of the two armies on 
the day of the death of Patroclus. I think this dis- 
tance of about seven miles from the sea, and ten or 
eleven from the probable station of the Greek fleet, 
must be admitted as a sound objection with reference 
to that single day ; but, however authentic we may 
consider the tale of Troy divine, w^e can hardly bind 
Homer to the precise accuracy of a Gazette. Greater 
difficulties would attach to almost every other site : 
Novum Ilium w^ould have been too near the fleet, 
between two and three miles, to admit of the opera- 
tions of almost any single day : Alexandria Troas 
would have been at an impossible distance from the 
Hellespont. 

2, When Jupiter sits on Gargarus, he looks down 
upon the city of Troy : 

"Idrjv d' 'Uavev TroXviridciKa, firjrspa Qrjpwv, 

Yapyapov, 'iv6a ds oi Tefxevoc, fSojfjtog re OvrjEig* 
* * * * . 



TROY. 



81 



Avrog d* tv KOpvpycn KaOe^ero Kvdt'i yaiwv, 
~Eiaop6ii)v Tpu)(ov re iroXiv ical vrjag 'A^aicJy.* 

e. 47. 

There can be no question, whatever Mr. Bryant, 
who had never been on the spot, may think, about 
Gargarus, the topmost height of Ida. It is as distinct 
as the summit of Snowdon or Skiddaw ; and it was 
the first thing I saw every morning from my cabin 
in the Britannia; but I could not see it from our 
supposed site of Troy. I, indeed, find it stated by 
Captain Francklin, who published his " Remarks on 
the Plain of Troy," that from the summit of Gar- 
garus he could see this site. I infer from Mr. 
Morritt, who was much interested to establish the 
point, that he did not. In any case, I think we 
should be justified in allowing some latitude to im- 
mortal vision. 

3. The principal argument in favour of Bounar 
Bachi is drawn from the neighbourhood of the 
sources of the Scamander : and can the insignificant, 
shallow, short-coursed rill we produce be the real 

* c: But when to Idas topmost height he came, 
(Fair nurse of fountains and of savage game,) 

* * * * 

Thence his broad eye the subject world surveys, 
The town, and tents, and navigable seas. 1 ' — Pope. 

Homer only mentions the town and ships : it is this limited 
particularity which constitutes the objection. 

G 



82 



TROY. 



Scamander, — decidedly inferior in volume of water, 
as well as length of course, to the Simois — not 
joining it, in express contradiction to Homer, but 
effecting a separate exit in Besika Bay ? To which, 
exclusively of the confirmatory circumstances, it may 
be replied, that there are perceptible traces of an 
old junction with the Simois, and of an artificial di- 
vergence, made probably for the sake of a supply to 
some mills, still existing, and still profiting by such 
supply : then, in Homer, the river below the conflu- 
ence manifestly appears to have been called the Sca- 
mander, for it is the Scamander which calls upon 
the Simois to hasten down with its streams to arrest 
the progress of Achilles, then fighting in the joint 
channel : if it had been above the confluence, the re- 
inforcement of water would have been unavailing. 

'A\\' Iwdfivvs TaxiGTciy tcai e/jl-LttXtjOl pseOpa 
"YdctTog ek 7T^y£tor, tcclvtclq d' cpoOvvov kvavXovg* 

<l>. 311. 

Mr. Bryant, indeed, pretends that, in all cases, the 
larger stream, above the confluence, gives its name 
to the united rivers. Mr. Morritt confutes him with 
an instance from the county to which he and I 

* u Call then thy subject streams, and bid them roar, 
From all thy fountains swell thy watery store." 

Pope. 



TROY. 



83 



belong, where the small Ouse gives its name to the 
larger streams of the Swale and Ure : he might have 
cited the largest confluence in our globe, which I 
have had the privilege to see, where the far more 
limited previous course of the Mississippi does not 
prevent it, after its junction with the giant Missouri, 
from imposing its own name on the mingled flood. 
With respect to the real insignificance of the most 
storied river, who that has seen the Ilissus can recoil 
from that objection ? It will also be recollected that, 
even at the moment when Homer represents it as 
swelling, furious, and supernaturally excited, he yet 
bridges it over by the fall of a single elm-tree. 

6 de 7TTE\er]v eXe x^P <T ' lV 

Evyvea, fjLsyaXrjv* rj d 3 sk pi^&v ipiwovaa 
KprjjjLvbv uTravra hwatV) 6 7T£<7%£ Se KaXa, phdpa 
"O'Coiviv TTVKivoiai* yecpvpioaev ds fiiv avroV, 
Ei(7w nac? Epnrovo\* — <£. 242. 

I will now, with the utmost succinctness I can 

* " On the border stood 

A spreading elm, that overhung the flood ; 
He seized a bending bough, his steps to stay ; 
The plant, uprooted, to his weight gave way, 
Heaving the land, and undermining all ; 
Loud flash the waters to the rushing fall 
Of the thick foliage. The large trunk displayed, 
Bridged the rough flood across." — Pope. 
g2 



84 



TROY. 



command, sum up the positive arguments in favour 
of this site. 

It satisfies all the many characteristics bestowed 
by Homer on the actual situation of the town : 

'Ev 7TsSt(p } on the plain* — 

£TT£L OU7TIO "iXlOQ Ip}) 

'Ev 7rt()i(p TrenoXiaro, 

The hill on which the modern village stands, I 
have already called a gentle slope ; on this side, and 
towards the assumed sources of the Scamander, the 
ground trends down into the wide plain of the 
Troad, which immediately here commences. Besides, 
I do not conceive that the expression " on the plain " 
need be taken quite absolutely : it is used, compara- 
tively, with reference to the still older town, which 
probably stood on some almost inaccessible crag, 
like so many in Greece and Asia : take Tchigri, the 
upper town in the island of Calimno, Trikheri at 
the entrance of the Gulf of Volo, From the village 
there is a long, very gradual rise, which lias almost 
the character of table-land, admirably adapted for the 
site of any town : behind this, the ground stiffens 
into a steep craggy ascent, from the other three sides 

* As Pope does not give the word in the passage already 
quoted (p. 74.), I give the passage here from Cowper : — 

" ere yet the sacred walls 

Of Ilium rose, the glory of this plain." 



TROY, 



85 



of which it descends in almost perpendicular pre- 
cipice immediately over the winding gorge of the 
Simois. Hence, by an apparent inconsistency, which 
attracted the animadversions of Mr. Bryant, who 
never was on the spot, but, as I think, by a most 
convincing speciality, the town, which is not unnatu- 
rally said to have been built in the plain, Homer 
also frequently calls 

ahrswriv, lofty ; 

rjvs/xosaaav, wind-swept, breezy. 
This must have been the place of the citadel, — 
the Pergamon, or Pergama, where Apollo kept his 
watch : 

, ecpe^eTO Uepyafxcp aicpyJ* 

E. 460. 

and the train of Trojan matrons went up to the fane 
of Minerva : 

. . vrjov 'Uavov 'AOrjvrjCj kv 7r6\ei atcpij. *j* 

Z. 297. 

and the royal palaces stood : 

'Eyyufli re Upiaixoio Kai "EicTOpog< iv ttoXei aKpy.\ 

Z. 317. 

* " But Phoebus now from Ilion's towering height." 

Pope. 

•J- " Soon as to Ilions topmost tower they come, 
And awful reach the high Palladian dome." — lb 

\ " Near Priam's court and Hector's palace stands 

The pompous structure, and the town commands." — lb. 

q 3 



86 TROY. 

At the extreme corner of the hill you come to a 
ledge of rock, probably near 400 feet in direct ascent 
from the ground beneath, which would have exactly 
served for the proposal to throw down the Wooden 
Horse : 

*H Kara Trerpawv fiakkuv sp&aavrctg kir atcpag.* 

9. 308. Odyss. 

The whole precinct of this upper town is, indeed, 
now completely overgrown with brushwood, as cor- 
rectly described by Lucan : 

" tota teguntur 

Pergama dumetis." 

Yet the well-known words that immediately follow 
are not wholly accurate : 

" * . . . etiam periere ruinse ;"f 

the ground seems to have been levelled purposely: 
most distinct lines of a large surrounding wall can be 
traced : in one spot we counted five tiers of very big 
stones still standing; there are great heaps of the 
same kind of stones on the slope immediately below, 

* " part sentence gave 

To plunge it headlong in the whelming wave." — Pope. 
■j* " All rude, all waste and desolate is laid, 

And e'en the ruin'd Ruins are decay'd." 

K-OWE. 



TROY. 



87 



where the wall appeared to have tumbled down: 
there are numerous lines of foundations within, which 
would have served for streets and houses ; and all 
over both the higher hill of the citadel and the 
lower hill of the city, there are innumerable stones 
which might have made parts of buildings, and which 
altogether cease with the probable limits of the 
town. 

'ILpiJScoXafca, most fertile* 
This epithet, of course, must belong to the district or 
plain, the Troad. As to many portions of it, the 
character is eminently true to this day, as, I trust, 
my friend Mr. Calvert will find the case on his 
farm, to his well-deserved profit. 

Such general epithets as evrsfysov, well-walled, 
ivKTifjLsvrjv, well-built, zvvaioiiivr)v, well-adapted for 
habitation, svpvdyviav, wide-^streeted, I certainly 
cannot exclusively claim, — content that they do not 
present one clashing attribute. I must, however, 
assert my hold upon 

'Eparewrjv, desirable, lovely* 
For strikingly, and to any one who has coasted the 
uniform shore of the Hellespont, and crossed the 
tame low plain of the Troad, unexpectedly lovely is 
this site of Troy, if Troy it was. I could give any 
Cumberland borderer the best notion of it, by telling 

G 4 



88 



TROY. 



him that it wonderfully resembles the view from the 
point of the hill just outside the Roman camp at 
Burdoswald : both have that series of steep conical 
hills, with rock enough for wildness, and verdure 
enough for softness ; both have that bright trail of a 
river creeping in and out with the most continuous 
indentations: the Simois has, in summer at least, 
more silvery shelves of sand; on the steep banks 
still graze the sheep of the breed of Ida, tended by 
shepherds perhaps not precisely in Phrygian caps, 
but with the most genuine crooks : above all, to 
quote again from the same passage in Lucan, 

" nullum est sine nomine saxum ; " * 

and the reputed tomb of Hector, placed where, from 
the account in the Iliad, it might have been expected, 
crowns the glorious summit. In the descent, it is 
very easy to assign the quarter for the ipivsb?, or hill 
of wild fig-trees : 

Aaov dk vrrjaov Trap* epiveov tv9a fiaXiara 
AfxtaroQ ecrri irokiQ) Kai i7ridpo[JLov errXeTO rel^og,^ 

* " Each rock, and every tree, recording tales adorn." 

Eowe. 

f " That quarter most the skilful Greeks annoy, 

Where yon wild fig-trees join the walls of Troy." 

Pope. 



TROY. 



89 



From this comparison of the epithets contained in 
the Iliad with the surviving appearances of the spot 
— from the proved fact of a very considerable city 
having existed here — from its commanding site, its 
breezy exposure, its neighbourhood to the plain, its 
lovely landscape., its distance from the requisite 
objects, — from all these essential conditions meeting 
and harmonising here, I should have been quite 
prepared to infer that it is the place which the 
writer or writers of the Homeric poems (I hope that 
I express myself guardedly enough) intended for 
Troy. Strong additional confirmation appears to me 
supplied by the relative position of the large barrow, 
which has been supposed to be the tomb of iEsietes, 
that midway post between the city and the ships from 
which Polites reconnoitred the Grecian armament. 

"Og Tpwwv GKOirog ttocujke'ujgl 7rs7roLC<l>c 9 
TvfA^cp tir aKpo7&T({j Aicrvfirao yspovrog, 
Aiyfitvog oTrirorE vavtpiv d^opfxrjQtiev 'A^atot.* 

B. 792. 

This mound, precisely where It ought to be, com- 
manding the whole shore, and exposing a person 

* " Who from iEsetes' tomb observed the foes, 

High on the mound ; from whence in prospect lay 
The fields, the tents, the navy, and the bay." 

Pope. 



90 



TROY. 



stationed there to no risk of being cut off from the 
town, still meets your eye, wherever you turn, 
throughout the whole extent of the plain. The 
other barrows on the long stretch of shore com- 
monly assigned to Antilochus, Achilles, Patroclus, 
and Ajax, though they might not have been good for 
much as insulated or unsupported testimony, yet in 
their adaptation to tradition, and in the continuity 
of the tradition, are not without their importance, 
especially in fixing the position of the Grecian fleet. 
The crowning proof, however, of this whole undying 
geography, is the position of the sources of the Sea- 
mander. What are the circumstances, as we know 
them from the poem ? Hector had made his stand 
at the Scsean gates, obviously the usual means of 
access to the city from the plain ; at the approach of 
Achilles, seized with sudden panic, he flies; the 
other pursues; they pass by the watch-tower, and 
hill of wild fig-trees, and, still under the wall, across 
the high-road, and then come to the springs of the 
Scamander, which are thus described : — 

Kpovvoj d' '{icavov KaWippooj^ tvOa Se 7Tt]yal 

Aotai avcuGaovffi ^KafxavSpov divrjsvrog* 

l H fikv yap 6' vSclti Xiapep peei, afi(j)l de Kanvoq 

Fiyverai k% avrrjg^ oxret irvpog aiOofxevoio* 

'H 8' ireprj Ospe'i irpopsti UKvIa 

*H ^idx'i tyvxpy, rj f| vdctTOQ KpvcTTaXKcp, 



TROY. 



91 



"Ev9a ($' iir civtolojv 7rXvvo\ evpseg eyyvg laai 
KaXoi, Xcdveoi, 061 elfiara aiyaXosvra 
HXvvsctkov Tpwuv aXo^ot, tcaXai re Gvyarptg, 
To irplv tipi'jvrjC) Trplv IXOelv vlag 'A^atwy.* 

X. 148. 

Now for the present reality. At the bottom of 
the slope, not far from the necessary position of the 
Scaean gates, the hill of wild fig trees, and the high 
road, amidst a tuft of verdure formed by willows, 
poplars, and the festoons of the wild vine, among 
some smooth layers of rock, and one or two slabs of 
marble, well out three or four springs of most trans- 
parent water, one of which is of warmer temperature 
than the others, and in winter emits the appearance 
of smoke or vapour. From this most embowered 
spot, between flowery banks, 

. . . XeifjLijjvL ^KajjLavdpicp av9en6svr. "j* B. 467. 

the narrow silver rivulet proceeds to the plain, and 

* " Next by Scamander's double source they bound, 

Where two famed fountains burst the parted ground ; 
This hot through scorching clefts is seen to rise, 
With exhalations steaming to the skies ; 
That the green banks in summer's heat o'erflows, 
Like crystal clear, and cold as winter snows. 
Each gushing fount a marble cistern fills, 
Whose polished bed receives the falling rills ; 
Where Trojan dames (ere yet alarm' d by Greece) 
Wash'd their fair garments in the days of peace." 

Pope. 

f Scamander's flowery side. 



92 



TROY. 



to the clear basins of its source the women of the 
modern village still descend to wash their linen. 

It does then, indeed, appear to me, that the whole 
case is irresistible for the hill of Bounar Bachi being 
the Ilion of the Iliad ; and I cannot help thinking 
that if Mr. Grote, always clear, cool, and logical, 
even when most sceptical, had visited these scenes 
himself, he would have hesitated to affirm that 
" there is every reason for presuming that the Ilium 
visited by Xerxes and Alexander was really the 
holy Ilium present to the mind of Homer." It has 
been no part of my present purpose to establish the 
further and distinct proposition that the Iliad is real 
history, — so roundly denied by Bryant — so candidly 
questioned by Grote ; but a circumstance has been 
brought to light, almost contemporaneously with my 
visit, which I do not allege as conveying any positive 
proof of an inference, to which I conceive, however, 
that it may plausibly point; but if that inference 
could be made good, it would establish, not merely 
the identity of the poetical site, but the authenticity 
of the actual history. Since Mr. Calvert has come 
into his recent possession of his Troad farm, he has 
opened a mound which he found upon it, and within 
which, at some depth below the surface, he has dis- 
covered a layer of calcined human bones, about six 



TKOY. 



93 



feet in depth and thirty feet in diameter, with one 
skeleton at the bottom, and below these a large 
quantity of ashes. The part where the bones are is 
surrounded by the remains of a wall of stones without 
cement. Might not these, possibly, have been the 
bones of the Trojans burned during the truce ob- 
tained by Priam in the seventh book of the Iliad ? 

ol da GiwTrfj 

'Nsicpovg TTVpKa'irjg kirevfivsov, ayyvpLtvoi Krjp, 
'Ev Ce TTvpi 7rpi](javreg t£av Trpori "l\iov ipi'jv* 

H. 427, 

The spot between two and three miles from Troy 
would be entirely suitable ; not within, or just in 
front of the walls, like Hector, the real Astyanax, 
or Lord of the City, more so than either his father 
or his son, with a lordly pile of stones above him ; 
but the crowd of dead had their tomb at a convenient 
distance, — the return to the town of the mourners 
being expressly mentioned; and the absence of 
cement in the inclosing wall might indicate a hurried 

* " With silent haste 

The bodies decent on their piles were placed ; 
With melting hearts the cold remains they btirn'd, 
And sadly slow to sacred Troy return'd." 

Pope, 



94 



BESIKA BAY. 



construction, such as was to be expected from men 
wlio had to fight on the morrow. 

Upon this, my first visit, I was far too much 
hurried for such a region, as I was engaged to meet 
the French admirals on board Lord George Paulet's 
ship, the Bellerophon. "We asked our guide how 
long it would take us to reach our point of embarka- 
tion ; three hours he said : this would have been very 
fatal to me, but we accomplished the distance in one 
hour ; and my belief is, that Hector himself never 
crossed the plain from the Scsean Gate to the Grecian 
ships at a more rapid rate. I was able to be punctual 
to my engagement, which proved a very luxurious 
and jovial one. 

July \§ih. — I was again very glad to remain quiet 
during the day. I dined with the officers of the 
ward-room, who make very pleasant society, and 
after sunset we went to some theatricals got up by 
the sailors themselves: they gave us no less than 
three farces, besides various Ethiopian and comic 
songs. The theatre was on the main-deck ; and as 
it was intensely crowded by the crew, not a little 
hot, I had three sailors sitting between my knees. 
Happily, a hatchway was open just over my head. 
Some of the actors showed considerable humour; 
and it was impossible to look round on the manly, 



BESIKA BAY. 



95 



jolly audience , without hoping that they are not 
reserved to be mowed down by Russian cannon. 

July 20th. — I called on the Vicomte de Cha- 
bannes, Captain of the Charlemagne, a fine screw 
ship. He married an Englishwoman, and seems 
himself to have some of the best qualities of both 
countries. I had intended to leave the ship to-day 
for the Consul's, but there was a mistake about the 
horses. In the evening I listened to the men singing 
on deck ; I heard much sentiment, a fair amount of 
humour, but no impropriety. At the end of a song 
the circle cried out, " Now, Mr. Shan, you have a 
right to a noble call ; " then Mr. Shan, a very suc- 
cessful humorist, called on Mr. Some-one, who 
began about " My Mary." We had some further 
harmony in the ward-room. 

July 22nd. — The Niger arrived ; it is rather 
exciting to see one of these steamers approach, sig- 
nalising, as they round Cape Sigeum, that they have 
despatches. Those brought to-day have rather a 
more pacific complexion. After a last dinner with 
the hospitable and warm-hearted admiral, and a 
cordial leave-taking with the officers of the ship, I 
was put on shore, and rode in the cool evening to the 
Consul's hill villa. Besides the family, they have a 
Wallachian gentleman, forced to leave his country 



96 



EREN-KEpY* 



by the Russians, after 1848, for the liberality of his 
opinions and proceedings, and now, like the Chevalier 
d'Azeglio, practising as an artist. 

July 23rd. — The morning was spent in very 
pleasant inaction. Mr. Calvert is beginning to form 
a museum, which will have much interest from the 
fragments he is gradually picking up; and as he 
proposes to drain extensively, the utilitarian and 
antiquarian operations may materially assist each 
other. There are already several small vases 
of the so-termed Etruscan appearance, which he 
assigns to about the time of Philip of Macedon. 
We dined at half-past three, and then took a 
delicious ride, only that the horses were slightly too 
skittish for deliberate enjoyment of the picturesque ; 
but the sunset aspect of the Hellespont, the Gulf of 
Saros, and the islands, especially Samothrace, which 
looks most majestic when you see it rise from its 
water base, was very beautiful. We passed a grace- 
ful, small grove, where the Greeks have still the 
custom of sacrificing an ox or bullock once a year, 
and then eating it, with song and dance afterwards. 
The only deficiency is generally that of well-grown 
trees. We saw some fine silver ash : the air is made 
fragrant by large thickets of Agnus Castus. The 
interior of this household is not less rich in attraction 



EREN-KEUY. 



97 



than all one has to see outside of it, and it is of a 
still higher kind. It has been of late much clouded 
by sorrow. Mrs. C.'s mother, Mrs. Abbott, retains a 
most remarkable degree of beauty, though she has 
had sixteen children. It does not fall within my 
purpose to dwell upon domestic details, among those 
whom I may meet or visit ; but it is impossible to 
have even had my short insight into Mr. Calvert's 
way of proceeding with the untutored races among 
whom his abode is fixed, — his gentle energy, his 
wise benevolence, his inventive utilitarianism, — with- 
out feeling that such a class of men would be more real 
regenerators of this bright, but still barbarous, region, 
than either fleets or protocols. He is gradually 
introducing the stock and implements of Europe 
upon his Chersonese and Troad farms, to which he 
is now meditating to add another, on the site of the 
ancient Dardanus. He dispenses advice and medi- 
cine among the villagers, and has even gone so far as 
to set a leg ; he has lent them money to pay off a 
debt for which they were paying interest at 20 per 
cent., and now they are in a fair way of repaying 
the whole to him. I ought to mention that these are 
all Greeks ; he has found, by damaging experience, 
that it is desperate to lend money to Turks. He has 
succeeded in rescuing two Christians who were 

H 



98 



DARDANELLES. 



alleged to have embraced Mahommedanism, and 
who,, until a recent mitigation of the law* obtained by 
the exertions of Lord Stratford, would have been 
subject to capital punishment. In short, if the Great 
Old Bard of his own Troad could have witnessed 
his daily life, he would have said of him too, as he 
did of one of his ex-neighbours, Axylus of Arisbe, 
who lived on the same thoroughfare — 

..... (piXog 8* r\v dvOpwiroKTi' 
Jldvrag yap (piXseaictV) Itzi oUia vaiuv* 

Z. 14. 

July 23rd. — Mr. Calvert rode down with me to 
his consular house, at the town of the Dardanelles ; 
whence I embarked on the Elleno, a small steamer 
of the Austrian Lloyd's, which plies between Salo- 
nica and Constantinople. I was the only guest in 
the state cabin : on board ther6 was a very ardent 
young Greek, who could not talk of the Turks con- 
tinuing in Europe with any patience. I was rather 
sorry to see that the book in the hands of this rege- 
nerator of his country was a volume of the Memoirs 

* " In fair Arisbe's walls (his native place) 
He held his seat, a friend to human race ; 
Fast by the road, his ever open door 
Obliged the wealthy, and relieved the poor.'* 

Pope. 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



99 



of Faublas. He seemed, however, to enjoy reading 
some Homer with me. 

July 24th. — We arrived in the Golden Horn at 
eight, on a morning beautiful like all the rest : the 
gradual expanding of the city, as we came up, has a 
grandeur which grows upon every experience. I 
attended one of Mr. Blakiston's pleasing services. 
Mr. Calvert had rather amused me, by his ac- 
counts of some of the travelling clergymen: one, 
of some renown in England, who had very much 
surprised him by his ardour for the Greek Church, 
of the real condition of which Mr. C. had a very 
accurate knowledge : another American missionary, 
a good man, but with no baggage whatever but a 
basket of melons. This evening, after dinner, a 
gentleman gave an interesting account of some coal 
mines he is working for the Turkish Government, 
near the site of the ancient Heraclea on the Euxine. 
Their quality is superexcellent, but the amazing 
amount of peculation, irregularity, and indolence 
among all the Turks concerned, makes him despair 
of any ultimate success. Their jealousy will not 
permit them to give a lease to any English company. 
His own handful of English workmen, some of whom 
are from my own Northumberland neighbourhood, 
work very contentedly. The native workmen 

H 2 



100 



BUYUKDERE. 



receive no pay whatever; consequently, it is the 
direst calamity for a neighbourhood to have any 
Government works established: and instances are 
known, of people enriching themselves by going 
round the country, pretending to indicate where 
minerals could be profitably worked, and then taking 
bribes (the eternal backshish) to purchase their 
silence. 

July 25th. — Had a Turkish bath, with more of the 
shampooing than before. Paid another visit to the 
artist Preciosa. Came down by the English tug 
steamer, fearfully overloaded, with Lord George 
Paulet, and landed at Buyukdere. Took up my 
quarters at the Hotel de PEmpire Ottoman, kept by 
M. Lapierre, a Sardinian by birth. I had intended 
to be at Therapia, but the hotel there had been 
engrossed, principally by Americans. This is more 
in retreat, about three quarters of a mile from the 
English embassy, and being in the furthest bend of 
the bay, the water has not the full transparency of 
the main current ; but it has the advantages of a very 
fair garden, and a bathing-house. I have a pleasant 
room, with an excellent view, and the largest bed I 
have seen since England. There were about ten at 
the table d'hote, very various in clime, three of them 
ladies. The dinner hour is half-past seven. 



BUYUKDERE. 



101 



July 26th. — I breakfasted under a vine in the 
garden. Poor Captain Woolrige, of the Inflexible, 
died here this morning, of fever, which I fear was 
brought on and aggravated by excitement at the 
prospect of undergoing a court-martial, for his ship 
having been run aground by its pilot. Lord George 
Paulet and I were called for by Captain Borlase, an 
English naval officer, who has been here for a year 
or two, instructing the Turkish fleet in gunnery, and 
taken by him on board the largest Turkish man-of- 
war, the Mahmoudieh, of 122 guns. She is very 
immense, and of unusual depth : she was built, like 
most, I believe, of their ships, by an American. 
Even after my residence with the fleet, I do not 
assume to be a naval critic, so I spare my reader all 
details. Lord George seemed on the whole very 
much satisfied with the arrangements ; the captain, 
who had been for some little time at Portsmouth, 
seemed a very intelligent man. I was particularly 
pleased with the care they appear to bestow on the sick 
in the ship's hospital, though there was an array of 
sweetmeats for them we should not have found in our 
vessels. The crew looked active and healthy ; not 
quite so clean as our men. We had of course pipes, 
sherbet, and coffee. We went to another ship of 
78 guns, where we found two Turkish admirals, 

H 3 



102 



BUYUKDERE. 



Achmed Pasha and Mustapha Pasha, the latter of 
whom served for some years in an English ship, and 
speaks English perfectly. Here we saw the crew 
work the guns ; and Lord George thought, as I had 
heard from others before, that no English crew 
whatever could have done it better. This is highly 
to the credit of Captain Borlase. We had pipes 
and coffee twice over, and were asked to dinner to- 
morrow. To-day we dined with Lord Stratford. 
His work has been very heavy of late ; he feels that 
the proposals which, have just been sent hence by the 
four concurrent embassies, embrace and exhaust the 
latest hopes of peace. 

July 25th. — At seven I attended the funeral of 
Captain Woolrige, at Therapia, in the Greek 
burial-ground, immediately overlooking the Bos- 
phorus. Our dinner took place on board the 
Turkish ship Meshudiah ; present, two Turkish 
Admirals, Admiral Slade, now acting in their 
service, Captain Borlase, Lord George Paulet, 
Captain Drummond, one French, one Dutch, one 
American captain. We were invited for an hour 
before sunset. We began with pipes, and then 
went to dinner. We had, as Dr. Sandwith had 
announced to me, all the appurtenances of Europe 
in the way of knives and forks, and the dishes were 



BUYUKDEKE. 



handed regularly rounds but in almost endless succes- 
sion, fish constantly recurring ; there was one very 
great composition from the breasts of chickens ; no 
stint of wine, of which our Moslem hosts partook. 
Conversation flowed very easily, and we were most 
cordially treated. I think the Turks pre-eminently 
well-bred, and this attribute seems to belong natu- 
rally to them, however elevated the position may be 
which they have attained, however mean or sordid 
that from which they have emerged. The sailor 
before the mast makes the most imposing of Admirals, 
the barber or pipe-bearer the most august of Pashas. 
We all parted, after a renewal of pipes and coffee, 
with many compliments. 

July 26th. — Though I am very well content with 
my hotel, I feel I have not sufficient power to 
choose or avoid all the society, and I shall find it 
more convenient to be nearer Therapia ; so after 
inspecting an apartment there in a small Greek 
house, of very modest pretensions, but which seems 
clean and healthy, with a charming view from the 
customary long couch under the window, I have 
nearly determined to move thither. In that case, I 
shall board at the Hotel d'Angleterre there. In 
walking back over the hills, I was arrested by a 
great novelty, a violent shower of rain : it was the 



104 



BUYUKDERE. 



first I had seen since Varna. The clouds soon pass 
off in these climes at this season, and the short 
wetting had given a great look of freshness to the 
fern on the hill-top, and the vines and Indian corn 
on the hill-side. 

July 27 th. — I breakfasted at Therapia with our 
vice-consul, Mr. Skene, a very able man, and singu- 
larly well-informed concerning Eastern events and 
races. His wife is a very agreeable Greek, and 
fights the battle for her countrymen with great 
intelligence and ardour. All seem to admit their 
zeal for education ; the peasants hire themselves for 
service in Athens without any wages, on the condi- 
tion that they may have a certain time for attending 
schools. May not such a race have an ampler 
future before them ? 

" Agnosco veteris vestigia flammae." * 

I settled definitely to take the Therapia lodging. In 
the afternoon I rode to the Forest of Belgrade : it 
is very charming sylvan scenery ; the trees seem 
mainly oak, chesnut, and beech, some of very fair 
size. There are three large reservoirs of water, 

* " I find the sparkles of the former flame." 

Dryden. 



THERAPIA. 



105 



conveyed hence by aqueducts to the capital, of which 
it forms nearly the only supply : I could have wished 
to see it of a clearer colour. The views in the 
returning descent upon the Bosphorus are very fine. 
For the last two days we have had an American 
lieutenant at our hotel, full of very racy talk. If 
ever there was a contrast in human character, it is 
between the go-ahead American and the shiftless 
Turk. He lamented excessively the bad effects 
which the abolition of corporal punishment is pro- 
ducing upon the discipline of their navy. 

July 30th. — I left the hotel at Buyukdere, not 
without some regret for the easy sea-bath, the 
pleasant garden, and the civil hosts. I walked some 
way by a cliff walk above the Bosphorus, till the view 
opens on the Black Sea ; there I seated myself on a 
stone, and read some of the noble novel of Ruth. I 
dined w^ith Lord Stratford. 

July SI st. — Went to the pleasing church service 
on board the Retribution. Found a place in a 
garden to read in ; but, from the absence of turf, and 
frequently of shade, this is a matter of some difficulty 
in Turkey. Dined for the first time at the Hotel 
d'Angleterre, which seems very comfortable, and the 
fare good. In the evening the Marseilles post 
arrived : there is some disquietude lest the proposi- 



106 



THERAFIA. 



tions made from hence and from the West to Russia 
should clash. 

August 1st — -I now habitually descend the steep 
bit of hill from my lodging at half-past five in the 
morning, to take a dip in the Bosphorus ; I get 
most transparent water, but the bathing-house it- 
self is rather rickety. I called on Admiral Slade 
on board his Turkish ship. He seems to me a 
person of great intelligence. He almost entirely 
adopts Turkish fashions. I found him reading a 
Turkish newspaper: he says it is a most difficult 
language for writing ; no vowels are used. I dined 
with Captain Drummond on board the Retribu- 
tion ; present, Admiral Slade, the American captain, 
Lord Pevensey, Mr. Capel the Queen's messenger, 
and some officers of the ship. All in excellent 
order and taste. 

August 2nd. — Crossed the Bosphorus in a caique ; 
landed in the Sultan's valley, where, amidst the most 
picturesque plane-trees, the crew of the Retribution 
plays at cricket, and the tents are now pitched for 
the expected Egyptian army. This has a very scenic 
appearance, like the scenes in the. last acts of Julius 
Csesar and Richard III. : being away from England 
this year, I cannot tell whether it is like Chobham. 



THERAPIA, 



I lost my way in an Asian valley, but at last 
emerged on the summit of the Giant's Mountain, 
called so from some supposed sepulchres there; espe- 
cially that of Joshua, who is alleged to have sat 
upon the summit, and dipped his feet in the water 
below. It is probably the finest panorama of the 
Bosphorus that can be commanded from any point; 
and its sapphire thread, with the gleaming sails and 
fortressed promontories, looked very lovely. Captain 
Drummond, whom I found on the top, gave me a 
very pleasant sail back. I met the American Lega- 
tion at dinner with our ambassador. Mr. Marsh, the 
minister, is one of the best conditioned and most 
fully-informed men it is possible to find anywhere. 
He would be the best successor to Mr. Everett they 
could send to London. 

August 3rd. — I called on Mr. and Mrs. Marsh: 
she is a most bright little person, and though unable 
to walk from an affection in the spine, or to read 
from one in the eyes, is full of zest and enterprise, 
and last year was carried up to the highest peak of 
Sinai. Mr. Marsh tells me that he thinks the pre- 
Columbian discovery of America by Northmen is 
fully established. I went to the garden of a country- 
house of the Sultan's here; it is rather rich in cy- 



108 



THERAPIA. 



presses and lemon-trees, and would have much capa- 
bility under good keeping. Drank tea with the 
Skenes — a most agreeable household. 

August 4th. — Read the new " Edinburgh" on the 
shaded couch in the Embassy garden. Walked to 
Buyukdere to call on Lady Emily Dundas, who had 
come up from Malta, and had been sent on here by 
the Admiral to see Constantinople and the Bosphorus. 
The laws of our service do not admit of her remain- 
ing with him. Our sea-officers may receive every- 
body else's wife but their own. 

August 5th. — Did little but read in the shade. 
Some curious old despatches from Pozzo di Borgo 
and Prince Lieven have been published at Paris, 
illustrative of the continuous aggressive views of 
Russia upon Turkey. Dinners at the hotel are very 
good and comfortable. 

August 6th. — I took a pretty walk in the vine- 
clad ravine behind Therapia. Dr. Sandwith dined 
with me at the hotel ; we drank tea with the Skenes 
afterwards. They have a very high opinion of the 
present Turkish ambassador in Persia. 

August 7th. — Church in the Retribution; plain 
excellent sermons for the sailor congregation by the 
chaplain, Mr. Salkeld, who has the additional merit 
of coming from Cumberland. Called on Lady Emily. 



THEE API A« 



109 



Some French naval officers at the hotel — gentleman- 
like people. 

August 8th. — To-day I gave a dinner or pic-nic 
to Lady Emily Dundas on the summit of the Giant's 
Mountain. It was extremely well arranged by the 
landlord of the hotel, Mr. Pettier, who transferred 
an excellent collation from Europe to Asia ; the 
provision waggon indeed broke down once, but no 
damage ensued. We were twenty-seven : Lady 
Emily, Lord Stratford, Mr. and Mrs. Skene, Ad- 
miral Slade, Lord Pevensey, Mr. Alison, Dr. Sand- 
with, Captain Drummond, and the rest were mainly 
officers of the Britannia and the Retribution. Our 
ascent was picturesque : the two ladies and two 
young midshipmen in a Turkish araba, a gaily 
painted waggon drawn by two dove-coloured oxen ; 
the Anglo-Turk, Admiral Slade, on horseback, with 
his three attendants on foot, carrying his pipe, &c. ; 
the rest of us walking. The ambassador very amiably 
left the peace and war of Europe for one afternoon, 
and came across in his well-manned caique. We all 
sat down on carpets round a large tablecloth ; here 
those accustomed to Turkish habits had rather the 
advantage ; but whatever were the merits of the 
meal, those of the view immediately beneath us 
would not admit of much competition from the rest 



110 



THEEAPIA. 



of the world. We had all the glittering reaches 
of the Bosphorus in its southern course, and, over 
and above its usual accompaniments, the fleets of 
Turkey and the tents of Egypt. The day was 
just what one would have commanded, having a 
due mixture of clouds, which are hailed here as 
sunlight is in England. In short, I had reason 
to flatter myself that all went off easily and plea- 
santly. As we returned over the Bosphorus, our 
clouds of the afternoon lit our way with distant 
lightnings. 

August 9th, — To enhance the good fortune of 
yesterday, this morning opened with pouring rain 
for several hours — a very rare experience here. It 
was a pleasant surprise to find that my crazy-looking 
timber roof did not let it in. After it was over, I 
walked in the valley behind the village, and the 
vines and Indian corn looked very bright in their 
fresh moisture. Dined at the Embassy with some of 
the naval officers. Despatches arrived from Vienna 
in the middle of the meal: there is much reason 
to fear a confusion among the competing projects for 
pacification. 

August 10th. — Steamed down to Constantinople; 
Mr. Skene was with me, and made an incomparable 
cicerone for the Bosphorus, telling me the tenants of 



THE BOSPHORUS. 



Ill 



the long line of palaces, and their histories : this was 
the house of Mehemet Ali of Egypt: this is the 
house of his chief rival, old Khosrew Pasha, now 
living there at ninety-six ; he has filled the office of 
Grand Vizier for fifty years altogether, with various 
breaks, and still retains many of the simple habits of 
his origin, as a Circassian shepherd. Here Darius 
Hystaspes crossed the Strait on his Scythian ex- 
pedition; here he sat on the rock to witness the 
passage ; the inscription on the stone to commemorate 
it, which was known formerly to exist, has not been 
discovered ; the ground on either side is now occupied 
by the tall round white towers of the forts, the Rumili 
and Anatoli Hissars ; the first, built by Mahomet 
the Second before the capture of the city, still goes 
universally by the name of the Conqueror. From that 
window, or rather slit in the wall, he used to examine 
the means of approaching the capital; under that 
low culvert, in the after destination of the place as a 
prison, the bodies were floated into the Bosphorus. 
The European fort is built on the most fantastic 
plan, to imitate the Arabic letters of the word 
Mahomet. On one side is Balta Liman, on the 
other Unkiar Skelessi, both famous in the annals 
of modern treaties. This rapid bit of current is the 
Sheitan Akindesi, or Devil's current, so said to be 



112 



THE BOSPHORUS. 



called because a Sultana had been angered by seeing 
a Christian congregation coming out of a church on 
Sunday, and had immediately given orders for the 
destruction of the church ; whereupon on her return 
her boat was upset, and all saved but herself. It 
was in that long spreading house in the bay that 
the sister of the present Sultan, the wife of Halil 
Pasha, kept long watch over her boy, to avoid the 
law which doomed all the male children of the 
sisters of Sultans to immediate death ; and when at 
last she found that the child had been strangled, she 
died herself from the shock very soon afterwards: 
this tragedy has happily put an end to the practice. * 
Into that dwelling the sister of the late Sultan, 
Ismeh Sultana, used to entice or force any handsome 
passer-by, and they were never heard of again. That 
very long fa£ade is the house of Fuad Effendi, whom 
Prince Menchikoff found the other day Prime 
Minister, and refuse to visit, f Radiant and lovely 
as is the whole scene, I fear that, through all the 
successive dynasties and races, a heavy consciousness 

* This story is positively contradicted in a recent number 
by a very well-informed writer in the " Quarterly Review." 
It certainly was currently believed in Constantinople. 

t See a very full and sparkling account of the shores of the 
Bosphorus, in the recent work of Anadol. 



THE BOSPHOKUS. 



113 



of crime ou^ht to brood over these sensual shores. 
The streets of Pera appeared very hot to-day after 
the breezy Therapia ; I went to some shops and 
studios, had luncheon with Dr. Sandwith, whose fine 
qualities grow upon all increasing acquaintance, and 
went with Mr. Skene to see the Sultan's new Palace 
of Dolma Bagtsheh : it is built by an Armenian 
architect ; the exterior has rather a glittering effect 
from a quantity of wdiite marble, which is a great 
step in advance, as all previous palaces were of wood, 
but it is too much frittered into minute ornaments, 
so as to look like one of Gunter's most ornate 
wedding-cakes ; the interior has some very fine 
spaces, especially the centre hall of audience, and a 
profusion of painted and gilded ceilings, which how- 
ever are indifferently conceived and executed. There 
is a remarkably pretty bath of oriental alabaster. It 
will be some time before it can be finished, and it is 
difficult to conceive where the money can be got for 
this, and for much besides, in this agony of the 
nation's fortunes. It is a great pity that each Sultan 
should run up so many new palaces, and not concen- 
trate their outlay upon the incomparable site of the 
old Seraglio. We returned by steam in time for the 
hotel dinner. 

August 11 tL — Saw Lord Stratford — matters seem 

i 



114 



THERAPIA. 



still much in suspense. Went to look at a cricket 
match between two elevens of the Retribution and 
the Triton steamers, on the little plain at Buyukdere 
near the beautiful planes. I resumed my old York- 
shire function of keeping the score. Dined at the 
Hotel du Grand Croissant at Buyukdere ; prefer ours 
at Therapia in all respects. 

August 12th. — I wonder who are shooting grouse 
to-day at Naworth Castle. I went out with the 
artist Preziosi to select a spot for a view of the 
Bosphorus ; I think we pitched upon a very judicious 
one, which, by comprising also the Turkish fleet and 
Egyptian camp, will fix the date as well as the 
scenery, I accompanied our invalid officer, Lieut. 
Greathed, to a Turkish bath in the village ; it was 
quite a clean one. I dined at the Embassy with 
rather a larger party than usual ; the repast was 
mainly given to the Spanish General Prim, Count of 
Peuss ; he is come here with rather a large train of 
his countrymen, to inspect the Turkish army. I sat 
by him at dinner and thought him pleasing ; he won 
the victory which gave him his title when he was 
twenty-seven. He will probably be rather late for 
his immediate object, as will also the first instalment 
of the Egyptian army which arrived yesterday, for 
the Caradoc has just arrived with intelligence of nine 



THERAPIA. 



115 



clays from London announcing peace. Fuad Effendi 
also dined ; he converses in French with much ease 
and intelligence. 

August 13th. — Walked to the village of Yeni- 
keuy, on the European side of the Bosphorus : the 
sort of towing-path walk is made less agreeable by its 
frequently running within the village frontage to the 
river. Drank tea with the Skenes. We hear that 
the Turks are much out of humour with us, as they 
think we have left them in the lurch, and, I believe, 
prevented their occupation of Moscow. 

August 14th. — Service in the Retribution ; took a 
sail in the pinnace of the spirited first-lieutenant, 
Willes. The Egyptian troops were in the act of 
landing ; they are fine-looking men, with very 
swarthy skins: the groups scattered among their 
piled arms had a picturesque effect. Had an early 
dinner on board the Retribution : Lady Emily 
Dundas and Lord Edward Russell were there ; and 
we walked afterwards about the noble plane group 
of Buyukdere. Tea with the Skenes and Dr. 
Sandwith. 

August 15 th. — It has really taken to rain rather 
frequently; however, it never lasts long; and in 
the clear fresh afternoon I went in a caique with 
Lieutenant Greathed to Buyukdere, called on Lady 

i 2 



116 



THERAPIA. 



Emily, and walked back. After dinner I went to a 
ball at the French Embassy , given in honour of the 
Emperor's birthday : there were many Pashas there 
— not quite enough ladies : the best looks were con- 
tributed by the Anglo-Levantine families of Sarrell 
and Sanderson. I collect that there are still diffi- 
culties in the reception of the last project of peace. 

August \6th. — I only paid some visits, and read on 
the Embassy garden divan ; I dined there ; there 
were two Eton masters, Birch and Johnson, which 
is, I should imagine, an unprecedented celerity of 
movement for the Election holidays : I was happy to 
think them very good specimens of their respected 
class. I hear on all sides that there is great exas- 
peration against England among the Turks ; and 
we are reproached with having encouraged them to 
resist Prince MenschikofPs original demand, and now, 
after they have made great efforts, and incurred large 
expenses, counselling them to adopt a declaration 
slightly varied in form, but almost identical in effect. 
I am inclined to think that we ought either not to 
have gone so far at first, which, I believe, would 
have been best, or to go further now. It is thought 
possible that the Turkish government may still decide 
on resistance. The Great Council is to meet this 
week, 



THERAPIA. 



117 



August 17th. — Steamed to Constantinople. Went 
with Captain Drummond to a copious shopping 
among the bazaars. Here you must lose sight of 
Europe. It is made a less fatiguing operation than 
it would otherwise be, by your being able to sit 
conveniently on all the shop-boards as you transact 
your bargain with the turbaned Turk or classic- 
featured Greek who occupies them. The imperial 
city rises in beauty on every visit; the more so, 
probably, from not residing among its discomforts. 
To-day how each swelling dome and taper minaret 
seemed to bathe itself in the azure expanse above ! 
I returned in the Caradoc. Tea with the Skenes : 
some of the pleasant Sarrell family were there. 

August 18th. — Went to see Lady Emily and 
Lord Edward at Buyukdere. Afterwards landed 
with Lieutenant Greathed at Beikos, said to have 
been the country of King Amycus, of the Argo- 
nautic period. I left my infirm companion in a 
Turkish coffee-house with his book and narghile, 
and walked to two very pretty villages in the valley 
behind : there are good hills, with large underwood 
of walnut and arbutus. We have had rather good 
dining company at the hotel : Lady Emily and Lord 
Edward have taken up their abode there. In the 
evening I went to Madame Baltazzi's, born Sarrell ; 

I 3 



118 



THERAPIA. 



pretty lady, pretty house, and pleasant family party. 
I played my first rubber of whist since I left 
England. 

August 19th.— Started at seven in a caique with 
Captain Drummond ; rowed down to Candili, where 
we were to breakfast at Mr. Hanson's ; he is the 
principal English banker at Constantinople. His 
house and garden have most delightful views up and 
down the Bosphorus ; I think it the gayest point of 
any I have seen. Good Mr. Blakiston read prayers 
before breakfast ; after that meal with a large comely 
family, we set off on horseback with three of the 
gentlemen belonging to it, and rode to the top of 
Allen-dagh, a high Asian hill, with a splendid view 
of both seas^ the connecting Bosphorus, and Con- 
stantinople ; we even saw the smoke and heard the 
echoes of the salute to the Sultan on his water pro- 
cession to a mosque. From the hill we descended to 
a very pretty wood, where we contrived not to find 
our way to a celebrated fountain ; but we got very 
good water from a stream to accompany our sylvan 
luncheon. We returned by the place of embarkation 
near the sweet waters of Asia, where the Turkish 
women in their arabas and bright colours make very 
pretty grouping. We were glad to stretch ourselves 
on the ground and eat delicious grapes. Their pro- 



THERAPIA. 



119 



fusion now is a great luxury. I got back in time to 
dine with Lord Stratford. In the evening he sent 
off a telegraphic despatch, which will produce its 
rebound in England. It announces that the Grand 
Council of Turkey cannot accept the last proposition 
recommended to them by the Powers without modi- 
fications, and that sooner than do so, they would be 
prepared for all eventualities. This is, at least, a 
spirited step on their part. 

August 20th. — I did not get further than the 
ambassador's garden. Dinner at the hotel ; tea with 
the Skenes, The Caradoc is to start as soon as she 
gets on board the ambassador's full despatch to 
elucidate the telegraph of yesterday. Lady Emily, 
Mrs. Skene, and Mrs. Sarrell as their interpreter, 
had been down the Bosphorus in Lord Stratford's 
state caique, and payed visits to three hareems. 
They were particularly struck with the splendour of 
one, belonging to the widowed daughter-in-law of 
Mehemet Ali of Egypt. They had a regular dinner, 
while beautifully attired dancing-girls performed 
before them : they drank coffee from cups studded 
with diamonds. This lady has 1000 slaves; she 
called those in her house her adopted daughters. Our 
ladies had to smoke pipes continually. 

August 2\st. — The Caradoc did not start till seven, 



120 



THERAPIA. 



which indicates that Lord Stratford and his attaches 
spent the whole night writing. Service on board 
the Retribution. I went over with Mr. Sarrell to 
see the Egyptian camp : we first went to the tent of 
Refik Bey, who acts as a sort of Turkish adminis- 
trator for it. He seemed a very practical and intel- 
ligent man., rather given to waggishness^ and dealing 
in much illustrative imagery, which seems the staple 
form of Turkish conversation. My companion was 
able to converse with him very fluently in Turkish. 
He complained that the whole world seemed in such 
dread of the Emperor of Russia : and his inquiries 
why we did not interfere to put a stop to the long 
warfare between the Russians and Circassians, as we 
had between the Turks and the Greeks, on the score 
of humanity, were somewhat difficult to satisfy. He 
considers that steamboats have done much harm in 
preventing faithful reports of the real condition of a 
country, as travellers now only stop at the principal 
hotels, and imbibe the opinions of the first stranger 
or dragoman they converse with. Few travellers 
were without prejudice ; and we feel towards them 
as towards portrait-painters, — delighted if they give 
us a favourable likeness — disgusted if it is an ugly 
one ; whereas we ought only to care for the truth. I 
told him that they ought to make him a Pasha ; he 



\ 



THEE APIA. 121 

said he should not be able to pass through the requi- 
site examination ; but this he must have said, like 
Marmion, in covert*£Corn, as his acquirements were 
evidently very superior to those of the common run 
of Pashas. The hospitality of the tent I found 
rather profuse, as I passed through three narghiles, 
three tchibouques, three cups of coffee, and one 
sherbet. I never had succeeded before in extracting 
the real contents of the tehibouque, and the result 
was that I felt a little sick and a little drunk. We 
were then mounted by our host on horses with 
Turkish saddles, and escorted by a colonel through 
the Egyptian camp, which is very picturesquely dis- 
posed in the Sultan's valley. There are, at present, 
10,000 men, and more are expected. They were 
going through their drill, and are, on the whole, fine 
swarthy looking men. They had been very closely 
packed during their long voyage at sea, and suffered 
on first landing from change of diet, and especially 
from the quantity of melons they got hold of : these 
have been since forbidden. We remember that it 
cannot have been unaccustomed food to them, as 
Israel pined after the cucumbers, the melons, and the 
leeks of Egypt. I dined at a large diplomatic dinner 
at the French Embassy. I think there is something 
very well-bred and pleasing about the Count of 



122 



THEE APIA. 



Xleuss ; lie starts for the camp at Sclmmla next 
week. Does he, perhaps, come on the part of 
France, where they may think that the inspection 
could be more plausibly conducted by a Spanish than 
a French general? The Prussian minister, M. de 
Wildenbrock, gave me a very encouraging account of 
Syrian and Egyptian travel ; he thinks Thebes the 
only place with which it is impossible to be dis- 
appointed. 

August 22nd. — Saw Lord Stratford; walked with 
Lady Emily and Lord Edward in the valley of 
Therapia. Dined with Admiral Slade ; only Captain 
Drummond besides, and the second captain of the 
ship, who only spoke Turkish. Our dishes were all 
Turkish, ending with the indispensable pilaw and 
yaourt, which is the same as sour Devonshire clotted 
cream. After two tchibouques we went to a small 
party at Mrs. Sarrell's. 

August 23rd. — The Caradoc returned, and brought 
orders for the Firebrand to proceed to some of the 
ports in the Archipelago, and permission for me to go 
with her. So this is the last day of my summer 
Bosphorus. It has been a smooth and pleasant time. 
I paid one or two visits ; dined at the Embassy ; 
drank my final tea with the Skenes and Dr. Sandwith. 

August 2^th. — A last dip in the sparkling, 



THEEAPIA. 



123 



dancings rushing, Bosphorus. My parting gaiety 
was a small breakfast given by Lord Stratford 
in his pretty conservatory to Lady Emily Dundas. 
Mr. Skene accompanied me in my caique to the 
Firebrand steamer in the Golden Horn, and Dr. 
Sandwith came on board to take leave of me ; 
and at five o'clock we left all the gleaming; shores 
and waters of Constantinople. Captain Parker * and 
his brother do everything for my comfort. 

August 25th. — At sunrise we entered the Hel- 
lespont, which has quite a familiar aspect for me ; 
we stopped for about two hours in Besika Bay, and 
I visited the kind admiral and pleasant friends in the 
Britannia. We see the comet well from the deck at 
night. 

August 26th. — At daylight we were passing the 

* I must pause upon the first mention of this honoured and 
lamented name, to pay a very brief and imperfect tribute to 
the distinguished officer who bore it. He attained his rank 
of Post Captain at almost an earlier period than any of his 
fellows, but he amply justified his elevation by his professional 
abilities, and the virtues of his character. It can be very 
seldom our lot to encounter a devotion to duty at once so 
modest, so resolute, so entire. His short and spirited career 
was closed by an heroic death at the Sulina mouth of the 
Danube, and it is best attested by the deep and affectionate 
regret of his officers and crew. May God grant that the thread 
of my journal be not broken by any similar interruptions ! 



124 



SMYRNA. 



Cape of Kara Bournou, and entering the Bay of 
Smyrna. This becomes very beautiful as you advance : 
the shapes of the hills are extremely fine, especially 
two twin peaks called the f( Brothers/' and there are 
large strips of cultivation and verdure : I hailed a 
solitary palm. The town closes the bay well; and 
there is a picturesque outline of a ruined fort above 
it. I rowed with Captain Parker ashore, and called 
at the Health Office, and on the consul, Mr. Brant. 
His Armenian dragoman, called familiarly Black 
J ohn, took great charge of me afterwards : we 
walked to the Bridge of Caravans, and then, at some 
expense of my fat companion's breath, to the top of 
the fortress hill. The view is most striking, and at 
the end of the fine bay there is a very rich vale or 
plain, covered with vine, olive, and cypress; still, 
however, a look of dryness and deadness is, as far as 
I have yet gone, the prevailing vice of Eastern land- 
scape, always excepting Broussa. But, however 
pleasant the environs of Smyrna may be, they are 
at present practically denied to the enjoyment of its 
inhabitants: a population of 150,000 is now cooped 
up within its walls by some six robbers, who occupy 
and command the country without. The brother of 
the Swedish Consul, not long ago, was walking with 
his children near his country house : they alarmed 



SMYRNA. 



125 



the children into silence by threatening to kill their 
father if they told what had happened, and carried 
him up into the hills, till the ransom they prescribed 
was paid. This has happened in other instances; 
still more recently, they presented themselves before 
some sportsmen, who had gone to shoot on an island 
in the bay ; they were dressed as Turkish Custom 
House officers, and, on the pretence of their not 
having brought their teskeres or passports, got hold of 
their guns, and then seized the shooters. One young 
man, I believe on this occasion, was killed in trying 
to escape. The chief of this band is Yani Katergi, 
or John the Postman, such having been his former 
pursuit : he is a Greek, and I fear some of his band 
are British Ionians. This state of siege, of a large 
commercial community, appears to me one of the 
most damning specimens I have yet heard of Turkish 
impotence ; nevertheless, I find the general Frank 
opinion here is strongly in behalf of war with 
Russia. I am not sure that we were reckoned in 
entire safety during our walk to the hill fort ; but 
the fat Armenian, and a very martial looking young 
cavass of the Consul's, had great confidence in their 
official safe-guard. The fort itself was quite a ruin, 
and I was told, when I inquired, that it was built by 
the Genoese; they did build a great deal in these 



126 



SMYRNA. 



regions, but I remark that every old wall and tower 
are fathered upon them. The streets of Smyrna 
are narrow, not worse paved than those of Constan- 
tinople, and, I think, have a still more oriental 
appearance. I saw the process of packing the figs ; 
the men and women employed had jars of water to 
wash their hands, and I did not think it seemed at 
all a dirtier operation than the ordinary culinary 
ones in any kitchen, so I think the descriptions that 
I have read in this, as in many other instances, much 
overcharged. There is a great dearth of merchant 
vessels to carry away the year's produce. The 
Greek population is as large as all the others, Turk, 
Armenian, Jew, and Frank, put together. They 
absorb the far greater part of the industrial pursuits 
of the country, including it seems that of robbing. 
There has been a considerable emigration here from 
the new kingdom of Greece ; none of that which 
was anticipated after the establishment of the 
kingdom, from these quarters to Greece. Returned 
to the ship to dine. 

August 27th. — Went on shore at eight; my friend, 
the Armenian, who seems to have long served as 
interpreter to various British fleets and authorities, 
accompanied me first in a caique and then in a kind 
of omnibus to the very pretty village of Bournabat, 



SMYRNA. 



127 



six miles off, where many of the European merchants 
have their villas ; we went into probably the best of 
these, Mr. Whittle's, a merchant of eminence here, 
with very distinguished manners; his garden w^as 
very w T ell kept, and there are some beautiful old 
cypresses, which I would have given a good deal to 
carry bodily away with me ; but even here he is 
obliged to keep four or five Turkish guards, whom 
one sees strutting about, their ample girdles bristling 
with w r eapons ; and he has received authentic intima- 
tions that the robbers entertain a design of carrying 
him or some of his grandchildren off, as they reckon 
that this would ensure an enormous ransom. On 
my return I called on Mrs. Van Lennep ; another 
very attractive daughter of the prolific house of 
Abbott. I took my coffee and narghile in a coffee- 
house near the pier, which a short time ago was the 
scene of a shocking murder of a young Austrian 
naval officer, by some refugees ; it happened in the 
wake of the Austrian and American quarrel about 
the Hungarian, Kosta, in which all parties seem to 
have acted wrong by turns. The spot commands a 
very lovely outline of bay and hill. Here I was un- 
expectedly joined by the two Eton masters and two 
officers whom I had met on the Bosphorus. I 
cannot say that I wished to stay longer at Smyrna, 



128 



RHODES. 



as there are no objects of interest, and no walks 
whatever near the town, even if there were no 
banditti ; but its fine circle of mountain and bright 
stretch of gulf will leave a pleasant picture on the 
memory. Among the attractions, however, of 
Smyrna, I ought not to omit the Kassaba melon, 
beyond competition the finest fruit that I have ever 
tasted : Kassaba is a village, about five miles inland. 
We weighed anchor shortly before sunset. To- 
night I played some rubbers of whist in the gun- 
room. 

August 28th. — When I went on deck this mornings 
^the coast of Chios, tc Scio's rocky isle/' was receding 
from us ; when our church service was finished, we 
were passing under the craggy Samos, which has 
fine forms, but all that meets the eye seems very 
uncultivated. The very deep blue of the ^Egean, 
in profound calm except in its sparkles of golden 
sunlight, makes a lustrous setting to the grey, sil- 
very Sporades. The more than mere classic Patmos 
has a very noticeable hill, with a convent on the top. 
The evening shades gathered round the heights 
of Cos. 

August 29th. — With daylight we anchored before 
Rhodes. Mr. Newton, our Vice-consul at Mitylene, 
but now acting for the Consul here, came off to us 



RHODES. 



129 



while we were at breakfast, and accompanied us to 
the shore. His appointment among these classic 
isles does great credit to Lord Granville, who made 
it on recommendations from the British Museum, 
with which he had long been honorably connected ; 
his is one of those well-furnished and tempered 
spirits, qualified to appreciate both the past and the 
present. As we rowed to the shore, the beauties of 
the outline of the city of Rhodes with its triple 
harbour, and white towers, above the still, sapphire 
waves, were fully expanded before us. We took a 
very extensive walk, passing first across the very 
wide moat and under the feudal arch-ways of the 
Palace of the Knights of St. J olm. The ruins are 
very stately ; and, I imagine, exhibit a greater 
mixture of ornament with military architecture than 
could be commonly found. I have not seen Malta, 
to which there would be naturally the greatest 
resemblance ; ^ Mr. Newton conceives that the style 
here is considerably purer. I wished ardently that" 
the ample knowledge and admirable taste of my 
friend, Mr. Salvin, could have been on the spot to 
derive and impart information. My reader must 
have discovered before this, that, when I speak on 
any of the high topics of art or architecture, it is 
without the slightest knowledge of detail ; I can only 

K 



130 



RHODES. 



record the general impression upon eyes not in- 
sensible to their beauties. The effect now suggested 
was that of bits of Kenilworth, seen under cloudless 
skies, and topped by occasional palm-trees. From 
the palace we descended to the principal street, 
where are the hotels or inns (auberges) of the 
different nations ; the armorial carvings upon the 
fronts of the houses are perfectly preserved, and still 
look most sharply-chiselled. Here is the cardinal's 
hat of Emery D'Amboise, Prior of the Order, and 
many other shields, which I conceive must have 
great interest for a herald. We came upon two 
representations of St. George and the Dragon, still 
surviving in fresco. The houses are all inhabited, 
but there is so little mid-day stir in Rhodes, that 
this street forcibly struck several of us as being like 
one in Pompeii. The town, as I hear is the case 
with its more modern derivative, Malta, is emi- 
nently clean, and the dwellings most substantial. 
Mr. Newton took me into the house of a Jew, which 
had a large carved wooden ceiling, like a manor- 
house of England. They served us with great 
courtesy to sweetmeats (<y\v/cv), coffee, and raki, the 
spirit of the island. We concluded our walk with the 
circuit of the ramparts, which is very extensive, and 
would move to envy the philanthropic soul of Mr. 



RHODES. 



131 



Slaney, as a public walk, but here we were obliged 
to take a cavass of the Pasha's to gain admittance. 
The views are very beautiful, of dazzling white 
building, and calm blue sea, and gardens glossy with 
fig, orange, and palm-trees, and the deep-grooved 
Carian and Lycian hills on the opposite coast. In one 
of the intervals of our long walk, the Captain of the 
ship, the Consul, and I, paid a visit to Ismael Pasha, 
who is at the head here of a very extensive pashalic, 
including a large proportion of the islands ; he is a 
grandson of Ali Pasha, of Yanina, and seems to be 
one of the best conditioned and enlightened of the 
body. He received us with very distinguished 
courtesy. He expressed himself much pleased at 
seeing that I wore a fez ; he bestowed great com- 
mendation on Mr. Newton, with whom he converses 
in Greek. Mr. Newton dined with us on board the 
ship. 

August 30th. — At five I started with a party of 
officers from the ship ; we assembled at Mr. Newton's 
house, and there were all mounted on mules : we 
were about fifteen, which, with a number of Greek 
running footmen, and one or two sumpter mules 
with provisions, made rather an imposing caval- 
cade. We rode first about eleven miles (but dis- 
tance gives no adequate measure of mule-pace) to 

K 2 



132 RHODES. 

a very picturesque fountain near the ruins of Villa 
Nuova, which had been a mediaeval fortress. It is 
the general halting-place of the muleteers. Here, 
under some very spreading plane-trees, our meal 
was prepared; the main article was a lamb, which 
was roasted whole, on a large spit; the process had 
a very Homeric look. While it was going on, some 
of the officers attempted shooting, but found nothing, 
and it was intensely hot. We sat down first to a 
pilau, and then to the lamb, which was spread out 
upon the branches of trees. A pretty part of the 
meal was, a large panier of grapes, pomegranates, 
figs, and water-melons, which had been procured in 
the neighbouring village, and were put to cool under 
the fall of the sparkling fountain. Some of the 
Greeks danced and sung to us; it was not very 
unlike the Highland reel. In our way home we 
made a diversion, and climbed to the top of a very 
steep hill, most of us on foot, but one or two mules 
conquered the ascent. On the summit was formerly 
seated lalyssus, one of the three Rhodian communities 
in the Trojan time, 

Aivdov, ^lifkvaaov rf, Kai apyivoevTa Kafieipov* B. 656. 

Very few vestiges of a town now remain, but there 
* " Jalissus, Lindus, and Camirus white." 

Poi\E. 



ERODES. 



133 



is a picturesque ruin of one of the castles of the 
knights, and a nearly subterranean chapel of the 
Virgin, with frescoes quite apparent. The view 
over seas and shores is very striking, closed on the 
side of the interior by Mount Atabyrius, sacred to 
Jove. 

Z Zsv 7rarep, vw* 
-roicriv ' ' Aratvpiov 
pedeuv.* — PlND. 01. 7. 

Our road passed through the village of Trianta, and 
I could not but be struck that, whereas on the 
Bosphorus the palaces of the Sultan, Pashas, and 
Ambassadors are all built of wood, here the dwellings 
of the poorest cultivators have stone walls of great 
thickness, and look like the peels, or towers of 
defence in the northern counties of England. We 
got back at eight ; and I must just put in here, that, 
though considerable portions of the day had been 
full of enjoyment, yet fifteen hours of unbroken 
pleasure-party would be too much even in Elysium, 
and we, most of us, returned in a state of immense 
physical fatigue. The ship's company w r ent on board 
to steam away immediately. I have made a change of 

* " O thou, who, high on Atabyrius throned, 
Seest from his summits all this happy isle." 

West. 

K 3 



134 



RHODES. 



plan, and as by keeping with the ship I should have 
only anticipated future visits to Beyrout and Alex- 
andria, and as the attraction of Mr. Newton's society, 
and the climate and beauty of this old island of the 
Sun-God, tempt me to enjoy more of them all, I shall 
remain here a few days. He kindly gives me a 
room in his house ; there are besides staying in it, 
his dragoman, Mr. Blunt, son of our consul at 
Salonique, and young Mr. Colnaghi, who is engaged 
in taking views with the Calotype. 

August 3\st. — If the expression could be used, 
the fatigue of yesterday has physically demoralised 
me, and I was good for nothing all day. My kind 
host is full of attention. 

September 1st — I had not improved, and I sent 
for the Italian quarantine doctor, Signor Marin ellh 
He attributes my ailment to a perspiration driven 
back on the stomach, which may be a good cause or 
not. He ordered a mustard bath for my feet, and 
sent me to bed, 

September 19th. — Here is indeed a long interval. I 
must have been thoroughly unwell when I made the 
last three entries, for on the next day, the 2nd, an 
eruption appeared on my breast, and I acquiesced in 



RHODES. 



135 



the version, that it was the reaction of the perspi- 
ration returning to the surface ; however, it turned 
out to be an attack of small-pox, mitigated, I presume, 
by my having received vaccination in my childhood, 
at no less illustrious hands, I believe, than those of 
Dr. Jenner, and once subsequently. I was not 
myself aware of the real nature of the disorder till it 
was subsiding : at first I suffered considerably from 
depression and restlessness; the nights seemed 
eternal. I have reason to think that I was treated 
on the whole with considerable skill and tact by the 
doctor, which he chiefly evinced by leaving as much 
to nature as possible : at one time, when I Avas 
confined to a diet of elder-flower tea and tamarind 
syrup, I had misgivings whether enough was done 
for my support. My kind host and my faithful 
servant naturally felt some uneasiness, which resulted 
in the appearance on the 12th of Dr. M f Craith, an 
Irish physician long settled at Smyrna, in high and 
just repute there ; and on the same afternoon of 
Dr. Rees, the excellent ship's doctor of the Britannia, 
whom the good Admiral had sent down directly he 
heard of my attack. The last, finding that my 
convalescence had begun, and that the Smyrna 
doctor was able to stay on ten clays with me, 
returned to his duties next day. Dr. M'Craith 

K 4 



136 



RHODES. 



gradually promoted me to more generous diet ; first 
tea, then soup, then partridge, then a glass of sherry, 
and so on, from which I imagine the scrupulous 
caution of my original Italian leech would have 
debarred me for some time longer. Dr. M'C. had 
considerable resources in conversation as well as 
in art, and at all events he made me feel that my 
illness had not been altogether unprofitable, as he 
did an infinite deal of good among the poor natives 
of the island, especially in couching them for 
cataracts, there being no surgical assistance what- 
ever in the island. But the zeal shown by my 
friends has not even ended yet; for this morning 
my own valued Dr. Sandwith has dropped in from 
Constantinople, and it is the first upon which I have 
felt any real consciousness of returning vigour. The 
ailment indeed has been a sorry check to my few 
allotted months of Eastern travel, but it has been 
tempered by very many special calls for gratitude : 
it found me not in some lone Turkish village, not in 
a confined steam-boat, not in a tent amid the desert, 
but in a well-built airy house, on an island reputed 
the healthiest of the Sporades, the windows of my 
own bed-room commanding the purple straight be- 
tween us and the indented mountains of Asia ; with 
a host to whom making exertions and sacrifices for 



RHODES. 



137 



others is the pleasurable exercise of his own bright 
nature, without any family to inspire fears of infec- 
tion, with judicious advice on the spot to watch the 
early symptoms, and with the best medical skill of 
the Levant scouring about in steamers to speed my 
recovery. Be the praise where it is due ! Be the 
impression what it should be ! 

September 22ncL — I shall not think of troubling 
the readers of this diary with the details of my con- 
valescence^ which goes on very smoothly. Dr. 
M'Craith returned to Smyrna by the steamer this 
morning: I take pleasure in again recording my 
gratitude for his efficient services. Dr. Sandwith 
and Mr. Blunt (Mr. Newton's dragoman — an ex- 
cellent youth) have been on a shooting expedition 
for two days in the hills : they saw many partridges, 
and looked for deer, but they have not abundantly 
replenished our larder. I am, however, well sup- 
plied with Rhodian partridges. The markets of the 
island are not very prolific. I believe the population 
is about 28,000,-20,000 Greeks, 6,800 Turks, 
1000 Jews, 200 Franks. There seems to be very 
little of real distress among them; scarcely any 
beggars, except a few lepers : their houses are, for 
the most part, well-built and clean ; the people are 
very temperate in food, and live much on their 



138 



KHODESa 



water-melons, grapes, and olives. But then, while 
such is the general run of their self-sufficing existence, 
there is scarcely any money among them ; so when 
sickness comes, they can ill meet the expense of the 
requisite remedies. Hence the value they have 
justly placed on the disinterested attention exhibited 
by Dr. M'Craith during his ten days' sojourn among 
them. I find that the Greek girls marry at as early 
an age as twelve, and the Turkish women are said 
to do so still sooner. There is the same account, 
here as everywhere, of the shiftlessness and increasing 
poverty of the Turk, the industry and energy of the 
Greek. No Turkish girl is ever put out to service, 
which is one contributing cause to these results. 
The Turkish lad or youth is liable to be drafted off 
to the army, from which he, perhaps, most frequently 
never returns. Much natural complaint hence arises 
among the Turks themselves, that the Rayahs, or 
non- Mussulman subjects of the Porte, are not made 
liable to service in the army or navy ; could they, 
however, be trusted ? This is one of the problems 
most pregnant with the future destinies of the 
Ottoman Empire. 

September 25 th. — Two Egyptian steamers passed 
by to-day, on their way to Beyrout to fetch more 
troops. This looks as if the complexion of affairs at 



RHODES. 



139 



Constantinople had become less pacific. It is now 
some time since we have received either papers or 
news from the Continent. If I did not feel that I 
was losing precious opportunity of seeing countries 
that I am not likely to revisit, I should not grudge 
these hours of insular convalescence. The climate is 
very perfect : there is the sensual pleasure of satis- 
fying the keenness of the recovering appetite : I 
have a sufficient command of books in old and modern 
languages ; and I have the friendly society of two 
accomplished and noble-minded men, one of whom, 
Mr. Newton, has treated an acquaintance of yester- 
day, attacked in his house with a contagious disorder 
from which most men might have shrunk, with the 
watchfulness of a nurse and the tenderness of a 
brother ; and the other, Dr. Sandwith, has, notwith- 
standing various and pressing avocations in the 
capital, made a long journey to this remote island, 
spontaneously and most disinterestedly, on the chance 
that his services might be useful, and even persevered 
in it after he learned, on his way, that any risk 
which there might have been was at an end. 

September 28th.- — My two friends have been for 
two nights in the interior on a partly sporting, partly 
exploring, expedition. Of game they did not see 
much, but Mr. Newton was rewarded by finding 



140 



KHODES. 



several pieces of Greek pottery, precisely of the 
kind which appears so long to have been erroneously 
appropriated to the Etruscans. There were two 
vases or cups of remarkably pretty form ; on one of 
them Xatps /cat irivz is inscribed. They slept at a 
Greek village, and are much impressed both with the 
gaiety and wellbeing of the inhabitants, though 
neither of them are by any means admirers of the 
Greek character in the higher ranges of society. 
The life of the peasantry here does appear, as I have 
already called it, a very self-sufficing one; besides 
raising their own food, they make their own clothing : 
they have not sufficient enterprise to manufacture oil 
out of their numerous olives. They appear to me to 
have very parallel dispositions to the French " Ha- 
bitans" of Canada; but our ascendancy is clearly a 
much better one than that of the Turks. My pro- 
gress goes on steadily in this most genial climate. I 
have had two walks, and two rides upon mules. Mr, 
Newton took me to the fountain of Symbole, a de- 
licious spring, with all its accessories framing it round 
most worthily : it is difficult in such spots not to feel 
a wish to worship the presiding Naiad. We stretched 
ourselves under some gigantic planes, their broad 
glossy leaves letting in the pure blue ether above, 
just on the brink of a romantic dell in which the 



RHODES. 



141 



varying green of the olive, the palm, and the plane 
mingled most harmoniously, and an old grey aque- 
duct spanned the ravine at just the proper place. 
Climb a bit of rocky bank just above, and you see a 
very perfect view of the city of Rhodes, with its old 
battlements and high Christian tower rising above 
the expanse of gardens in which they are quite 
islanded, the blue -ZEgean expanse beyond, with the 
bold fringe of the Carian and Lycian mountains, 

" Viridis Cragi, " * — Hon. 1. i. c. 21. 

to enclose the picture. 

October 2nd. — We have had three days of equi- 
noctial gale and tempest. It is well to have been 
so comfortably housed during such rough weather, 
instead of being bound 

" Across the desert or before the gale." 

Bride of Abydos. 

Dr. Sandwith left us this morning in the steamer for 
Constantinople. We shall miss him extremely, but 
are glad that he should not be detained longer from 
the duties of the capital. 

October 3rd. — This morning my old acquaintance 



* " Or Cragus' ever verdant glade." — Smart. 



142 



RHODES. 



the Firebrand arrived, which the Admiral had kindly- 
desired to call here again, during the progress of a 
second tour upon which it has been despatched 
among the islands, and to carry me with them up to 
the fleet. Besides the steamer, there arrived a series 
of no less than twenty Galignanis, rather a formid- 
able number for simultaneous digestion — an arrear of 
letters from home, which gave me very great delight 
— and, what is of most importance, intelligence from 
Constantinople, that upon the receipt of the Russian 
refusal to accept the Turkish modifications of the 
Vienna note, the Ottoman Council have resolved on 
immediate war. So to-morrow I shall really leave 
Rhodes. I walked in the evening with Mr. Newton, 
and saw a farewell sunset of its patron God, which 
happened to be the finest I have observed in the 
Levant, where I should say that on the whole they 
are wanting in brilliancy and variety of tint. But I 
am glad to leave the island in its restored beauty 
of climate. 

October 4th. — There could not accordingly have 
been a more perfect day. We did not start till the 
evening, and I closed my island residence as I had 
begun it, by an expedition on mules, with a large 
party of the same ship's company^ we did not, 
however, go further than the fountain of Symbole, 



RHODES. 



143 



and had there a much less elaborate repast. On 
our return we paid a second visit to the Pasha, who 
had been extremely attentive in his enquiries during 
my illness, and I wished to express my thanks in 
person. I am assured that he gave me a very flatter- 
ing reception, having a more than usual array of 
dragomen, cavasses, pipe-bearers. He believes in the 
certainty of war, and rather expects that it will be 
proclaimed to-day, which is the new year's day of 
the Turks. All he said concerning England was 
very civil, but I heard that yesterday he expressed 
himself with some mistrust. As soon as our pipes 
were over, we took , leave of his Excellency, who, 
however, immediately followed us to the Firebrand, 
where he was received with yards manned, a guard 
of honour, &c. Thus, we did our best to evince the 
unbroken amity of the two countries. Upon his 
departure we weighed anchor, and saw the shores of 
Rhodes fade from our sight, under the youngest 
crescent of the new moon. Mr. Newton comes with 
us as far as the island of Calimno, whither I believe 
he is bound rather more on antiquarian than on 
strictly consular business. It is a happy circum- 
stance, that our public servants should be able to 
employ any leisure from their official duties in 
pursuits which are likely not to be without direct 



144 



RHODES. 



benefit to the national stock of knowledge and taste. 
I trust, I do not leave this fair island and hospitable 
roof-tree, without fervent gratitude for all the 
mercies received there, of many of which my good 
friend has been empowered to be so active an 
instrument. 

In a lighter strain, I may remark, that it would 
have appeared somewhat ungrateful in this island to 
have given me a grave ; in proof of which I append 
two paraphrases, that I made very many years ago, 
of the beautiful legend of the birth of Rhodes in 
Pindar, 01. 7. 

" Cum fati imperio, prima sub origine mundi, 

Eligerent propriam Dique Deseque larem, 
Turn sibi Junonem dites cepere Mycenae, 

Cepit in umbrosis saltibus Ida Jovem ; 
Turn Venus est sortita Paphon, turn eelsa Cythera ; 

Turn juga Cecropii casta Minerva soli ; 
At Phcebo, rutili dextra dum frsena diei 

Tenderet, haud Phoebo contigit ulla domus ; 
Ille autem, liquidi mersam sub marmore ponti 

Vidit adhuc parvam delituisse Rhodon, 
Jamdudum e pelago crescentem, aurasque petentem 

Vidit, et in cano prata virere salo ; 
* Hanc, Pater, hanc concede domum, tuque insula,' clamat, 

4 Oeyus e vitreis exoriare vadis, 
Exoriare, potens armis, atque ubere felix, 

Magna parens ovium, magna futura virum ; 
Do tibi, tranquillo facilem parere colono, 

Do tibi, nativis imperitare fretis.' " 



RHODES. 



145 



" When at Creation's radiant dawn uncurled, 
Rolled the grey vapours from a new-made world, 
Each bright Immortal chose a home below, 
Which most his presence and his name should know. 
Then Jove first trod his Ida's forest bower, 
Then Juno reared Mycenae's royal tower ; 
Minerva sat on Sunium's rocky throne, 
And claimed the Attic olive for her own ; 
While Venus shed the lustre of her smile 
Round high Cythera, and her Paphian isle : 
No Deity but owned some honoured hill, 
Some solemn grove, or consecrated rill. 
Phoebus alone, as on th' ethereal way 
He sped the flaming coursers of the day, 
Amid the conclave of the clouds forgot, 
Upon the earth he gladdens found no lot : 
When lo ! far down beneath the glassy tide 
One hidden shore he viewed, then joyful cried : 
' Change not for me th' allotments of the sky, 
Nought can escape Apollo's piercing eye ; 
See, in the folds of Ocean's azure vest, 
A brighter, greener, bower than all the rest. 
Rise, lovely Island, from the crystal flood, 
Rise, clothed with harvest, vintage, lawn, and wood ; 
Rhodes be thy name ! With shoot elastic, rise, 
Spurn the salt depths, and bask beneath the skies ; 
From thy moist surface heave the silvery spray, 
Spread thy young bosom to my golden ray ; 
On thee through all the year shall breathe and gleam 
My balmiest zephyr, and my brightest beam ; 
Cities and harbours shall adorn thy coast, 
War, commerce, art, shall be alike thy boast, 
Thy maids all beautiful, thy sons all brave, 
And thou, the mistress of thy natal wave.' " 

October 5 th. — Sunrise found us in the bay of 
L 



146 



CALIMNO. 



Calimno. It makes rather a complete picture in 
itself ; a small smooth recess, among grey rocky 
hills ; a small white town, or Marina, on the shore ; 
a mile or two above, another white town, which has 
been comparatively deserted for the superior conve- 
nience of the beach; and, close impending over the 
last, the ruins of a fortified wall and still older town, 
perched on its crag or eyrie, which I must not call 
inaccessible, as some of the officers scaled it, but 
which at all events looks as if it must have been 
completely impregnable by all old modes of warfare. 
This series of towns is according to a scale described 
by Plato, and shows the progressive wants of society, 
— defence on the summit, comparative facility of 
access on the slope, commerce and navigation on the 
shore. The great field of Calimniot commerce is the 
acquisition of sponges, in which these islanders are 
said to exhibit great activity and enterprise ; in the 
summer almost the whole male population leaves the 
island mainly on this quest. We walked as far as 
the middle town, where Mr. Newton was speedily sur- 
rounded by numbers of the Greek natives, bringing 
coins for sale. We passed the ruins of two old 
temples. There is but one single Turk in the island, 
who acts as Mudir or deputy-governor. We were 
told that the Greek population care very little for 



SCIO. 



147 



peace or war, or any political question, provided only 
that no one interferes with their quietly getting 
sponges. They are lightly taxed and industrious, 
and accordingly care little 

44 Quid bellicosus Scythes cogitet." * 

I am bound to say, that, with the exception of 
occasional outrages and collisions, when the passions 
have been roused, and of some instances of extor- 
tion, where men in authority are remote from ob- 
servation and from check, the condition of the 
Christian subjects of the Porte is one of great prac- 
tical freedom and ease. We left Mr. Newton alone 
among them, and sped our way onward ; the sun 
sunk nearly behind the swelling mound of Patmos. 
I shall become well acquainted with the outlines of 
the Sporades. 

October 6th. — There was great beauty in the 
sunrise gilding the long extent of the town of Scio, 
as we steamed in front of it this morning. We 
landed, and walked about with our Vice-consul, 
Signor Vedova, a very hearty and intelligent Italian. 
The long line and successive terraces of town even 

* " Cease to inquire what Scythian bands devise." 

Smart. 

l 2 



148 



SCIO. 



yet exhibit an immense proportion of ruins, to attest 
the massacres perpetrated by the Turks during the 
Greek Revolution in 1822 and 1826 ; almost the 
most complete and deplorable that ever occurred. 
Here, indeed, was one of the exceptional cases to 
which I have referred; but it cannot be denied, 
on the other hand, that the circumstances and 
provocations were also exceptional. The number 
slaughtered has been computed at from 24,000 
to 30,000, which exceeds the present population 
of the island: a large portion of the women and 
children were sold into slavery; almost every 
house burned ; all the gardens, which had been the 
especial pride of Scio, destroyed. By a species of 
reaction, the children of many that escaped have 
been educated in Europe, and now constitute the 
most enterprising of the Greek houses in London, 
Manchester, and the Levant. The doomed island 
sustained a further loss a few winters ago, when the 
unusual cold entirely destroyed the orange, lemon, 
and mastic trees, which supplied a material share of 
its commerce. There now seems a considerable show 
of activity both in the town and harbour : the Greek 
population is about 18,000 to 800 Turks. There 
was considerable disappointment at first among the 
Greeks at not being assigned to the new kingdom of 



SMYRNA. 



149 



Greece when it was originally constituted ; but it is 
said now, that there is no tendency to excitement 
among them. They are very industrious, but are 
reckoned extremely sharp in their dealings: this 
seems, indeed, the common attribute of the Greek 
character, and it is supposed to give them no little 
advantage over our English competition. We set off 
for Smyrna before noon, and carried thither the wife 
and daughter of the Vice-consul. Madame Vedova 
has lived twenty-three years at Scio, and complains 
wofully of its blank and unredeemed solitude. We 
did not arrive at Smyrna till an hour after sunset, 
when we made an ineffectual attempt to induce the 
quarantine authorities to allow the ladies to land : it 
required some ingenuity to accommodate them for the 
night. As a sort of compensation to them, the ship's 
company got up an impromptu dance, with a solitary 
but very efficient fiddle ; and any friends who may 
be anxious about my health would have been re- 
assured, if they could have seen me leading off Sir 
Roger de Coverley, with the Vice-consul's lady. 

September 7 th. — Several visitors came on board 
during breakfast: my doctor, M'Craith, whom I 
was cordially glad to see again; his colleague, 
Dr. Wood; Mr. Turrell, the principal of a new 
school or college here ; young Mr. Abbott. We find 

L 3 



150 



SMYRNA, 



war actually proclaimed by Turkey,, and many 
accompanying reports of all complexions. They 
have not yet taken their robber here, Yani Katergi, 
but there have been no very recent displays of his 
activity. Some one mentioned a trivial symptom of 
the manner in which the Greeks edge the Turks out 
of every species of industry ; but it is characteristic 
of the universal procedure. Packing up figs in boxes 
is known to be the staple business of the place : the 
Turk formerly derived a large profit by packing the 
figs in round boxes ; it occurred to some one that 
it would economise space to pack them in square 
boxes ; the Greeks accordingly immediately took to 
the manufacture of the square; the Turks go on 
with the round. Some one asked why. " Oh," they 
said, " they had always made them round, and should 
go on doing so." The Greeks have accordingly got 
all the employment, and this is the epitome of the re- 
lations of the two races. Soon after breakfast I went 
on shore with young Mr. Blunt, and called on the 
Consul, on Mr. Hanson, one of our most prominent 
merchants, Dr. M'Craith, and at Mr. TurrelPs school. 
There are about fifty scholars, of all sizes, climes, 
and races, except the Mussulman. They were for 
the most part fine-looking youths ; and Mr. Turrell 
seems full of zeal, good sense, and good nature. 



SMYRNA. 



151 



The institution, however, is not self-supporting, and 
has hitherto had partly to rely on the public spirit 
of a few of the English inhabitants. It would 
really appear that the object of training a number 
of well-taught and w T ell-principled young men to fill 
the office of dragoman at the different diplomatic 
and consular stations, now often fearfully abused by 
the Greeks, Armenians, and other races who chiefly 
hold these posts, might justify some moderate na- 
tional outlay. While I speak censoriously of other 
nations, I must not conceal the regret I have felt in 
perceiving that the English name, as connected with 
commercial and consular proceedings, does not uni- 
versally hold the high place which it once did, and 
which one wishes for it. Of course there are very 
bright exceptions. A generous English education 
would go far to redress this degenerating tendency. 
Great responsibility attaches to the proper selection 
of consuls ; and I hope the time is past when failure 
and insolvency in trade will be considered as the 
main qualification for a class of appointments which, 
in remote regions and among anomalous populations, 
assumes a high degree of influence and importance, 
Mr. Turrell told me, that, since he had been here, 
he had begun to put faith in the prospect of Greek 
regeneration. Their quickness and aptitude in 



152 



SMYRNA. 



learning is beyond question ; moral principle, and 
some love of truth, very generally remain to be 
acquired, I made one Greek youth read some 
Homer, to show me their pronunciation. By the 
afternoon steamer I went to Bournabat once more, 
on this occasion to spend the night at Dr. Wood's. 
He has a good house and pleasant little garden, 
with some of the beautiful cypresses that are the 
glory of the village. Mrs. Wood is sister of 
Mrs. Abbott, whom I had met with the Calverts : 
she is pleasant, and very accomplished. It is the 
fashion of the place for the neighbouring families to 
sit for an hour after sunset before their respective 
gates, and receive visits. This is very luxurious in 
the cooled glow of the eastern-autumn-eventide. At 
eight we had a very substantial the-soupatoire, the 
more acceptable to me as I had not dined ; and 
.afterwards some of the previous visitors of the gate 
came in again : the circle comprised some pretty 
ladies and good musicians. Such is the easy life of 
the Levant. 

October 8 th. — At seven I started with some of 
the gentlemen, mercantile and medical, who go into 
Smyrna every morning for their respective duties. 
The gulf looked very lovely in still water, before the 
surface was rippled by the " Imbat" or gale which 



SMYRNA. 



153 



blows in shore, almost without fail, every day of the 
year, and refreshes the town. There is a good deal 
that recals Naples in the outline of both bay and 
hill. At eleven I went to the Pasha, having heard 
that he had expressed a wish to see me. Ismael 
Pasha was a Greek of the Morea by birth, early 
sold into slavery with the rest of his family. I am 
told that one of his brothers is doing well in 
America, another holds a good place in the Turkish 
army or navy, and he himself is here Pasha of 
Smyrna. He has been minister of commerce, has 
been in France and England, and talked very fluently 
to me in French. He seemed very anxious for the 
intervention of France and England. He g;ave me a 
very distinguished reception ; each of my two pipes 
had two diamond rings round them (I mention this, 
as Mr. Blunt tells me that Levantine merchants have 
been known to bribe the Pasha's officers to give 
them a finer pipe than their colleagues). Pie came 
into the outer room with me, and when I got down 
stairs I found a white horse, with a resplendent 
saddle-cloth, on which, escorted by numerous atten- 
dants, I rode back through the streets and bazaars. 
I partook between twelve and one of Dr. M'Craith's 
very comfortable morning meal, which was, in fact, 
a dinner. He took me afterwards to see a very 



154 



MITYLENE. 



spacious and rather handsome church in the process 
of building by the Armenians; a part of the ways 
and means was furnished by robbing a passing 
Armenian merchant of 50007. Some of the modern 
Armenian and Greek houses look very luxurious, 
with vestibules full of orange trees and occasional 
fountains. We left Smyrna about eight o'clock; a 
large party of the officers had made a very dashing 
cavalry excursion, under the guidance of young 
Blunt, who is most justly an universal favourite, and 
had much enjoyed their evolutions, notwithstanding 
sundry falls. 

October 9th. — We anchored early off the town of 
Mitylene. The neighbourhood, covered with olive 
groves, had a very luxuriant look, as seen from the 
ship. After service, which is most creditably per- 
formed by the young chaplain, Mr. Rogers, we 
landed, mounted on mules, and rode over a steep 
ridge of the island, through a continuous grove of 
olive, mixed with oleander and poplar, and broken 
by views of the sapphire sea and pale blue moun- 
tains of Asia, to Port Oliviero, or lero, a beautiful 
inland basin, where navies may anchor, and even 
manoeuvre, and which is one of the possible destina- 
tions of our fleet this winter. There is one point, 
with a double view of sea on each side, which is 



BESIKA BAY. 



155 



most transcendent. I have not generally been very 
enthusiastic about the beauty of the ^Egean islands, 
there is such a sad deficiency of verdure, and of 
relief to the grey barren crag ; but this old Lesbos 
is clearly the first in beauty of those which I have as 
yet seen. We halted at the house of a proprieter in 
a Greek village ; he was a very courteous old man, 
who told us that he should be very happy, but was 
in fact made miserable by having six daughters, as, 
when they married, he was obliged to give each of 
them a dower of 4000 dollars, a town house, and a 
country house. Some of our officers thought they 
could not do better than to propose on the spot. 
An impromptu luncheon was served to us with great 
nicety and cleanliness. I give its components : — 
poached eggs, an excellent salad of sage and anchovy, 
olives, pomegranates, melons, water-melons, with of 
course coffee and sweetmeats. We thought there 
was a good deal of beauty among the islanders ; 
extant specimens of Sapphos and Phaons. We left 
our friend Blunt on the shore, to assume the duties 
of vice-consul in Mr. Newton's absence. Every one 
was very sorry to part with him. 

October 10th. — One more night's steaming brought 
us, on the brightest of mornings, to the fleet at 
Besika Bay. The sight derived additional animation 



156 



BESIKA BAY. 



from some two hundred merchantmen, with all their 
sails up, reflected on the motionless water, to catch 
the faintest indications of the breeze that might 
come. I left the Firebrand, which has given me 
such pleasant conveyance, and transferred myself to 
my old hospitable quarters in the Britannia ; where, 
I need hardly add, I had the most cordial reception 
from the kind Admiral and his officers. All are 
waiting with the greatest anxiety for the next direc- 
tions from England, or summons from Constanti- 
nople. They had to-day been just four months in 
Besika Bay, which they have thought far more than 
sufficient. There has been a good deal of fever in 
some ships ; not many deaths. Mr. Blunt, the 
Master in Chancery, uncle to our young friend, 
Lord Edward Russell, and Lord John Hay, dined 
with us. 

October Wth. — We all felt considerable excite- 
ment this morning, as letters from Constantinople 
made us think it possible that the fleets might be 
ordered up there immediately ; it w^ould have been 
almost too good fortune to have arrived just in time 
for such an epoch and such a spectacle. However, 
the more probable opinion is, that the summons will 
not arrive at soonest before the answer comes from 
the Russian head-quarters to the Turkish demand 



BESIKA BAY. 



157 



for the evacuation of the Principalities within fifteen 
clays. The young Prince of Leiningen, nephew to 
the Queen, who is serving on board this ship as a 
midshipman, dined with the Admiral to-day. He is 
very highly spoken of, as entirely unassuming, and 
most attentive to his duties. 

October 12th. — It is the most perfect weather, 
— cloudless days and moonlights, which makes us 
grudge all the more not going up to the Golden 
Horn. The French Admiral, Barbiere de Tinan, 
and a large party dined here; he has distinguished 
manners. There was also an abbe from the French 
flag-ship, of whom all our officers are fond. Our 
Admiral's table is abundantly served ; to-day we had 
turtle from Alexandria, venison from Tunis, par- 
tridges from Imbros, grapes from Lesbos. 

October ISth. — The Inflexible steamer came from 
Constantinople. It appears that the fleets are hardly 
likely to be summoned thither till there is overt war 
between Russia and Turkey. The Sultan, however, 
has decidedly applied for their presence. We had 
another large banquet to-day, including the other 
two French admirals, and, what is a greater rarity 
in the squadron, a woman, the Vicomtesse de Cha- 
bannes, wife of the captain of the Charlemagne. 
She is English by birth, and a very cheerful lady. 



158 



EKEN-KEUY. 



October 14£A. — Admirals Dundas and Hamelin 
had a conference this morning, about their respective 
places of anchorage, if they proceed upwards. It 
seems to be provisionally settled that the English 
squadron will be at the town of the Dardanelles, 
and the French off Gallipoli or Lampsacus. I am 
afraid we shall lose the sight of the combined fleet 
entering the Golden Horn together, which would 
have been a very signal exhibition. We dined on 
board the Charlemagne, where the reception was 
very kind, and the fare very good. I like the 
captain, M. de Chabannes, extremely. After dinner, 
the abbe of the ship went out to say some short 
prayers to the crew. One should like much to copy 
this practice. 

October 15 th. — After breakfast I left the ship 
with Mr. Calvert, and rode with him to his village 
dwelling of Eren-keuy. We took a road I had not 
seen, leaving on our left the mounds that bear the 
names of Peneleus, Antilochus, Achilles, and Pa- 
troclus ; and we went up to the tomb of Ajax, 
which has received a more decided confirmation 
from a temple having been built there, called the 
Aianteion. The mound itself has been opened at 
some period; there are some remains apparently of 
Roman architecture on the spot. This ride of four- 



TROY. 



159 



teen miles made me feel sufficiently stiff after my 
recent weakening ; but I got a walk after an early 
dinner. For an eastern evening it was rather over- 
cast^ but the conical form of Mount Athos was most 
distinct at a distance of ninety miles. 

October 16th. — -A most peaceable Sunday. Mr. 
Calvert read the service : he told me they had prayed 
for me during my illness ; so to-day I begged him 
to return thanks for my recovery. Many sick 
persons come to him for advice, and even for the 
simpler surgical operations. We took a pretty walk 
with the ladies after dinner, through lanes and vine- 
yards, which at spring-time must be very attractive 
in their fresh green. 

October 17th. — At seven we mounted; rode 
first to Mr. Calvert's Asiatic farm. Some new 
machinery was putting up, and it seemed singular 
to- find implements from Croskill of Beverley and 
Garrett of Saxmundham on the plain of Troy. I 
went to see the mound which has been lately opened, 
and which contains the layer of calcined human 
bones, assumed to be the remains of the Trojans 
buried during the truce, of which I have already 
spoken. The neighbouring ground to a large extent 
has been used as a burying-place, but for a far later 
generation ; any number of large earthenware jars 



160 



BESIKA BAY 



or coffins may be dug up, in which bones are found, 
and one or more very small earthenware jars, or 
achrymatories. I carried away one of these, which 
was dug up during an excavation Mr. Calvert had 
ordered while we were there ; the fabric is supposed 
to be of about the time of Philip or Alexander. 
After an acceptable luncheon on the farm premises, 
crowned by some Kaimak, an excellent kind of 
clotted cream procured from the Turcoman shep- 
herds, we rode on to Bounar-bachi, and the summit of 
Troy. I found that I had seen this glorious site very 
superficially during my former hurried visit. We 
drank from those beautiful springs of the Scamander 
which gush up amidst its soft cradle of verdure, — 
the gem of the wide bare plain, and a fit home 
for every Naiad. On turning the mound of 
CEsietes in our way back, we came upon the 
view of the combined fleets, still quietly riding 
on their anchors, and unsummoned to more busy 
waters. I reached the Admiral's ship just in time 
for his dinner at sunset, and I find that, though it 
had been a longer ride than the last, either practice 
or the classic breezes had prevented me from feeling 
it so much. In the evening, the French steamer 
Chaptal arrived with orders from the Ambassadors 
at Constantinople to the Admirals, to send two ships 



BESIKA BAY. 



161 



of the line, and four or five steamers, to the Bos- 
phorus as soon as the Sultan's firmans for their 
passage should arrive. 

October 1 8 th. — The Admirals had a long con- 
ference to arrange their respective stations in the 
Dardanelles. I had pleasant letters from home, 
showing that the anxiety about my illness had been 
mercifully lightened. I dined with Captain Graham 
on board his fine ship, the Rodney. 

October 19th. — It blew almost a gale from the 
south-west, which is the most critical quarter for 
this station, .but one hardly perceives it on board 
this large ship. One of the lieutenants, Mr. Glynn, 
a very fine fellow, has just taken advantage of a few 
days' leave to go up to Varna and Schumla. He 
gives an interesting account of the camp : on the 
whole, he found the aspect of things there much 
better than he had expected; all immediately at 
head-quarters about Omer Pasha in very good order, 
especially the artillery and Albanian cavalry. On 
the road and in the outlying parts he saw some very 
wild and irregular bodies, — Kurds, actually armed 
with bows and arrows, and no fire-arms. Some 
Captains dined with the Admiral. The gale subsided 
into beautiful moonlight. 

October 20th. — I never knew a finer day ; summer 
M 



162 



BESIKA BAY. 



lieat relieved by the freshness of the recent gale. 
The summons from Constantinople tarries. I dined 
with Captain Greville on board his immense ship, 
the Trafalgar : there were three French and three 
English Captains, who keep excellent fellowship. As 
I rowed there, just after the unclouded sunset, there 
was every hue on the confines of sea and sky, and 
Mount Athos, eighty-four miles off, looked less than 
ten. 

October 2\st. — In the afternoon, Captain Drum- 
mond arrived from the Bosphorus in the Retribution 
steamer, having brought the Turkish officers with 
the Sultan's firman for the passage of the Dar- 
danelles. The order of progress was then finally 
arranged. The small squadron detached to the 
Bosphorus consists of the English ships Albion, 
Captain Lushington, towed by the Sampson, Cap- 
tain Jones; and the Vengeance, Lord Edward 
Russell, towed by the Retribution, Captain Drum- 
mond ; of the French ships, — the J upiter, towed 
by the Gomer, carrying Rear- Admiral Barbiere de 
Tinan ; and the Henri Quatre, towed by the Sane : 
the remainder of the fleets will wait in the Darda- 
nelles. The Admiral and I dined in the ward-room of 
the Britannia ; not a small party, as it amounted to 
twenty-eight ; it is a most well-conditioned mess in 



DARDANELLES. 



163 



all respects and senses.* After dinner, I went on 
board the Vengeance, to 

" Pursue the triumph and partake the gale " 

of the first entry into Constantinople. Lord Edward 
lodges me very comfortably. 

October 22nd. — -As yet it is only the gale I have 
to partake. I got up to see the start of the detached 
squadron at two in the morning, which was a pretty 
sight, with the waning moon and the lights of the 
vessels on the perfectly still waters. When I got up 
again between six and seven, we had entered the 
Dardanelles, but a smart breeze from the north was 
springing up. This made our course very leisurely ; 
we were nearly abreast of the French ship Jupiter, 
when the magnificent screw-steamer Napoleon, 
towing the Ville de Paris, the flag-ship of Admiral 
Hamelin, rapidly and proudly passed between us. 
We rather rail at our government for not sending 
one of the fine new screws for the English squadron 
here ; it being the country of all others where out- 

* As a proof of even our scrupulous good neighbourhood, 
I may mention that, on this anniversary of the battle of Tra- 
falgar in the flag-ship of a British fleet, no allusive toast was 
allowed to be given. 

M 2 



164 



DARDANELLES. 



ward appearances tell most. At noon all but the 
Ville de Paris, and another French ship, the Jena, 
which had passed on to their stations, were brought 
to their anchors under the adverse influences of the 
Hellespontic breeze and current. We are about two 
miles below the town of the Dardanelles, and its 
river the Rhodius, which is broader than either 
Scamander or Simois. I landed in the afternoon, 
walked up there, found Mr. Calvert at his town 
house, and rode back with him to our boat. Captain 
Drummond dined with us on board the Vengeance, 
There is but one voice respecting the admirable tact 
and discretion with which he has discharged the 
duties of his quasi-diplomatic station in the Bos- 
phorus, during nearly the whole summer. 

October 23rd. — The gale is still fresher, and there 
is no speedy prospect of our moving. Altogether it 
rather shakes one's idea of the omnipotence of steam, 
at least in its paddle-box application. I suppose the 
days are not distant, when every ship will be a 
screw. Lord Edward read the church-service, there 
being no chaplain on board at present. The singing 
was pleasingly done by the crew. 

October 24^. — The gale still fresh. Lord 
Edward and Captain Drummond try shooting on 
shore, but with very scant success. 



DARDANELLES. 



165 



October 25th. — No change. We dined on board 
the Retribution. All there is singularly well- 
ordered. 

October 26th. — A much finer day, but the wind 
still obstinate. I walked to the town, and saw T the 
Consul. In my way back, I threaded a very pretty 
dell with fine pines, worthy of growing among the 
distant spurs of Ida. My rendezvous on the shore 
with the shooters was at sunset, and as they were 
not quite punctual, I got up a foot-race of the boat's 
crew for a small prize. 

October 21th. — Weather the same. Lord Edward 
and I dined in the ward-room. I am always struck 
with the good fellowship and good manners that 
prevail among all classes of our naval officers. Some 
impart their griefs to me about the tardiness of pro- 
motion. They tell me that they are not a long-lived 
class, and that the sailors are very apt to die off at 
about the age of forty-five. I believe that on the 
whole their comforts in these days are very well 
looked after ; but the continuous exposure and broken 
rest tell upon the human frame. This evening, 
Captain Lushington of the Albion, who is the senior 
officer of our detached squadron, sent for the Retri- 
bution to assist in towing him up to Gallipoli, 

M 3 



166 



DARDANELLES. 



intending to send it back, with his adjunct the 
Sampson, to do the same for us afterwards. 

October 28th. — Wind still high, and no progress 
in either squadron. Lord Edward has almost always 
four of his officers to dine, which gives a pleasant 
variety. 

October 29tk. — To-day the Dardanelles assumed 
a new aspect of animation ; it had become compara- 
tively calm. At sunrise the Albion approached and 
passed us with her two steamers; before noon our 
Admiral arrived and anchored close to us; various 
other ships of both squadrons were in motion. I 
grieve to say, that one of ours, the Arethusa, got 
aground ; so that instead of being, as in Virgil, 

" Ante alias Arethusa sorores," 

and as she is very apt to be with her brilliant Cap- 
tain, she will be the latest arrival. As it had been 
settled before that the Vengeance was not to set 
out till the morning, I walked once more to the 
town, and took my last leave of excellent Mr. 
Calvert. We dined on board the Britannia, and 
met our steam- captains, who had returned from 
depositing the Albion safe at Gallipoli. On this my 
last day in the Hellespont, I finished what I had 



SEA OF MARMORA. 



167 



begun on the first day of my visit to the Trojan 
waters, my re-perusal of the Iliad in the original. 
I should hope that under any circumstances my 
maturer judgment, since the days of my boyish ac- 
quaintance with it, would have led to a more vivid 
appreciation of its undying beauties; but I can as 
little doubt that the actual neighbourhood of almost 
every one of the scenes described, only known before 
in the music of their names, — the bodily presentment 
of the broad Hellespont, and sylvan Samothrace, 
and craggy Imbros, and many-fountained Ida, — 
gave fresh zest and charm even to that mighty and 
universal lay. 

October 30th. — At daybreak we started, the 
Sampson and Retribution towing us. We reached 
Gallipoli at twelve, when Captain Lushington 
signalled to us to take on the steam-boats for forty 
miles, and then take to our sails, and send the 
steamers back to him. We accordingly parted 
company with them at eleven at night, when we 
were clear of the island of Marmora, and hoisted 
sails. 

October 31 st. — It was not an unpleasant variety 
to have a day's sailing in beautiful weather, and with 
the turns of wind not wholly unpropitious. Before 
evening we came in sight of San Stefano, the 

M 4 



168 



SEA OF MAKMOKA 



appointed place of rendezvous, and of the two French 
men-of-war lying there, which have thus far won 
the race. We could not, however, get up to them 
before dark, and had to tack much about during the 
evening and night. I stayed for some time on deck 
listening to the seamen of the watch singing a suc- 
cession of songs under the still and starlight sky. I 
am bound to say, that in none that I heard here 
was there any impropriety ; in one or two a con- 
siderable degree of humour. 

November 1st — The morning found us still tacking 
in front of the imperial city. The Admiral, who had 
been suddenly summoned up, soon passed in the 
Tiger steamer.* He telegraphed to us that hostilities 
had commenced between the Russians and Turks. 
Then the Albion passed with her two steamers ; 
then the French vessels set out, and left us to our 
solitary tacks; so my visions of entering the Bos- 
phorus in processional array are quite baffled. We 
came to an anchor about half-way between the Seven 
Towers and Seraglio Point at two o'clock. The 
French ships had also anchored. Our two steamers 
returned for us, but too late for a daylight ascent of 
the Bosphorus. We hear that the Turks have already 



* Alas ! her destinies were not confined to peaceful seas. 



THERAPIA. 169 

had a successful skirmish on the north of the Danube. 
I had plenty of leisure for contemplating the southern 
range of the city, and its now familiar cupolas. No 
part of this landscape can ever pall upon any one. 
In the evening I went down to the midshipmen, who 
gave me good punch and good songs. They are a 
fine set of youths, generally speaking. Altogether it 
seems a highly vocal ship, and the crew at Christmas 
intend to act — what, does my reader guess? — 
Macbeth ! 

November 2nd. — We started at daylight, and I 
was ready on deck to miss no portion of the trans- 
cendent passage. The morning was squally and 
dingy, and we were four hours and a half accom- 
plishing the eleven or twelve miles to Beikos Bay. 
However, bright lights are more necessary for first 
impressions, than when one knows where to find each 
successive beauty. I landed in the afternoon, and 
was in some dismay at first to find that the hotel at 
Therapia was still quite full. I hardly liked to 
recur to my late quarters in the village, where I 
probably caught my small-pox ; but I finally got a 
room at the hotel, through a kind arrangement of 
the American minister's, I was happy in the evening 
to see Dr. Sandwith and the Skenes once again. 

November 3rd. — Called on Lord Stratford; found 



170 



THERAPIA. 



him most cordial and friendly, and not, apparently, 
at all the worse for the wear and tear of the long 
summer diplomacy. Rumours are very rife from 
the seat of war, for war there actually is both on 
the European and Asiatic frontiers, and the Turks 
appear to have been successful in skirmishes on both 
points. Our Admiral, and his daughter and son-in- 
law, Mr. and Mrs. Robartes, are staying at the hotel, 
and we lead the life of a pleasant country-house. 

November 4th. — We organised a ride with a party of 
twelve, comprising three ladies - — Mrs. Robartes, and 
two of the Miss Sarrells. Captain Borlase was our 
principal leader: as his business is to instruct the 
Turks in gunnery, their Sabbath, Friday, always 
gives him a holiday ; he is a very honest and single- 
hearted man. Our ride was very beautiful and suc- 
cessful; we reached the Black Sea at Kelos, scampered 
along the sands, stopped for our luncheon at the 
" valley of pigs," or, perhaps we may call it, " wild 
boars : " we were stretched for an hour on the grass, 
which speaks well for what a fine November day 
may be on the Bosphorus. Our way back led us 
through the steep slants and chesnut glades of the 
Forest of Belgrade, and we particularly noticed the 
house where Lady Mary Wortley had lived. I, with 
the Admiral's party, dined at the Embassy, 



THERAPIA. 



171 



November 5th. — I would not lose one of these 
unclouded days, and I also felt uncertain how many- 
more I should have for seeing anything I had yet 
omitted ; so I took again the excellent horse I got at 
M. Lapierre's hotel : the usual guide was not in the 
way, so I had to pick up another to convoy me to J us- 
tinian's Aqueduct, who was not perfectly competent 
for the office, as we lost our way twice in the outskirts 
of Belgrade; but we arrived in due time at the 
village of Pyrgo, from the brow of which there is a 
view of a valley, which looked as green as if it was 
in a cleft of Skiddaw or Helvellyn, and on either 
side were large aqueducts: that of Justinian is a 
noble span, but its look of antiquity has been ruth- 
lessly impaired by a thorough white-washing. As 
we rode through one of the villages from which the 
Turkish inhabitants have disappeared, my companion 
chimed in with the universal view of the rapid decay 
of their numbers. He gives them from twenty-five 
to forty years before, without the help of war or 
violence, they would entirely vanish from the land. 
He pourtrayed their demoralisation in very emphatic 
terms. The day was thoroughly lovely. After 
dinner I visited the Admiral, who has transferred 
himself to the Furious steamer, and Mrs. Sarrell. 
A new note of pacification has arrived from England. 



172 



THERAPIA. 



It is apprehended that it may be rather late in the 
day. 

November 6th. — I set off at half-past six in the 
steamer for Constantinople. I was anxious not to 
miss the first opportunity of taking the Sacrament 
since my recovery. The excellent chaplain, Mr. 
Blakiston, agreed to come with me to Jerusalem. 
The Bosphorus looked very radiant, both by sunrise 
and sunset. From some distance off the shores, 
there is almost a danger of admiring the palaces and 
kiosks of Sultans and Pashas too much ; they seem 
so light and glittering : but near the land they rather 
look as if built of cards. There is a very con- 
spicuous one of stone, with a garden and kiosk, which 
has been for some time building for Rescind Pasha, 
adjoining his present residence. This house and strip 
of land, I am toid, the Sultan has just bought from 
him for 200,000/. sterling, and immediately after- 
wards he bestowed it upon Reschid's son, who is 
about to marry one of the Sultanas. This, with us, 
would be reckoned a curious transaction between the 
sovereign and foreign secretary of state, and even 
here, at a time when money is so grievously wanted 
to supply the expenses of the campaign, excites very 
censorious comment. I dined with the Admiral on 
board the Furious ; there were the French Admiral, 



THERAPIA. 



173 



some of our Captains, and Mr. and Mrs. Robartes. 
Drank tea with the Skenes. 

November 7tk. — At ten I accompanied the Admiral 
on his visit to the Captain Pasha. We went rather in 
state with five barges, and I wore for the first time 
on this journey my Lord-Lieutenant's uniform. The 
Captain Pasha received us on board his immense flag- 
ship, the Mahmudieh. We had all the usual courte- 
sies of pipes, coffee, and sweetmeats ; but nothing in 
the world resembles another so much as a visit to 
Pashas. The other two Turkish Admirals joined us ; 
but we observed that though pipes were handed to 
them, they did not venture to smoke them, I suppose 
without being asked by the Captain Pasha. He is a 
large full-blown-looking man, as if very capable of 
being a sort of Blue-beard. The crew exhibited the 
working of the guns, and our naval men thought they 
went through it admirably, with so much activity 
and quiet. Captain Borlase says, he found it the 
most difficult point of all to enforce silence. I 
walked in the Sultan's garden with a large party of 
Sarrells ; the pines and cypresses are very beautiful. 
The place belonged formerly to one of the Soutzos. 
I hear that in the mosques last Friday a firman was 
read giving to the Sultan the title of Grazi, which is 
assigned to all those sultans who make war against 



174 



THERAPIA. 



the infidel. Abdul Medjid has announced his inten- 
tion of going to Adrianople to take the field himself — 
in the springs which sounds rather a long adjournment 
of his Gazi-hood. The remainder of the English and 
French squadrons are to come up immediately. 

November 8th. — I went to Constantinople by the 
morning steamer ; had a Turkish bath at Galata, 
luncheon with Dr. Sandwith. I met Mr. Berkeley 
there ; I think him a most intelligent and pleasing 
person : he gives a good account of the Black Sea 
coal mines he is working for the Turkish govern- 
ment ; but just now he is engaged upon a matter of 
still more public moment, though it is one of private 
speculation j that is, a project of connecting the 
Danube and the Black Sea over the narrowest neck 
of the intervening land, where the distance would 
only be about thirty- six miles, and would be accom- 
plished by a railway of about twelve miles, and a 
channel through some natural lakes for the re- 
mainder. A canal for the whole distance has been 
often projected, and has been falsely assumed to have 
been executed by Trajan. It is said that the making 
of the canal has hitherto been arrested by copious 
disbursements from Bussia; but I believe that the 
difference of level between the sea and river would 
interpose more permanent obstacles. It is impos- 



THERAPIA. 



175 



sible not to feel hearty good wishes for the success 
of this project: it would almost totally supersede 
the difficulty about the Sulina mouth of the Danube, 
which must always exist even if perfect fair play 
was observed ; and few matters can have more direct 
bearings upon the general interests of European 
commerce. It is an important point for our consi- 
deration at the present moment, that the largest 
portion of our direct importations into the Turkish 
dominions are consumed in the Principalities of 
Wallachia and Moldavia, I returned on a very 
crowded steam-boat; dined at the Embassy. I 
thought Lord Stratford seemed to contemplate the 
possibility of a pacific solution more hopefully than 
usual. The weather for the last day or two has 
become cold again ; calling to-day on Madame Bal- 
tazzi, I found her with the first fire I had seen since 
I left England. 

November 9th. — I paid another state visit with the 
Admiral to the other Turkish Admirals, Achmet and 
Mustapha Pashas, whom I had visited during my 
previous residence here. As the day was fine, the 
departure of our barges from the ships, under salutes 
loudly echoed from the craggy shores, with the bands 
on deck playing " God save the Queen/' makes a 
spectacle both pretty and suggestive. I walked to 



176 



THEKAPIA. 



the fine view of the Bosphorus from the Pera road ; 
Mr. and Mrs. Robartes and I dined on board the 
Albion. Two miles by water is a long way to go 
to dinner, but we had a smooth surface and moon- 
light. 

November 10th. — At nine I accompanied the Ad- 
miral and Mr. and Mrs. Robartes on board the 
Spitfire steamer, which is employed on the service of 
the nautical survey of these seas under Captain 
Spratt, a very intelligent officer. The wind had 
changed to the south, which was most propitious for 
the arrival of the fleets. We proceeded as far as the 
Seraglio Point, and met the Britannia and Bellero- 
phon in the Bosphorus, and had a distant view of 
the Trafalgar; they had a very majestic appearance, 
with their attendant steamers. We then turned and 
went as far as the entrance of the Black Sea. I 
see plainly that at the entrance of the Bosphorus 
from the north the country is far from being pretty ; 
so I do not wonder at the slight feeling of disappoint- 
ment upon my first arrival, The change of wind 
brought rain. I dined with the Admiral and a quiet 
party on board the Furious. 

November llth. — The weather has become very 
cold, and we are particularly susceptible to it in our 
loose-windowed hotel, without stoves or fire-places. 



THERAPIA. 



177 



We do as best we may with brasiers of charcoal. 
The afternoon was clear, and I walked to the kiosk 
in the Valley of Gulhane, or Valley of Roses, above 
Buyukdere ; it gave its name to the famous Hatti 
Scheriff. It is a rich alluvial strip between pic- 
turesque hills, with fine glimpses of the Bosphorus ; 
it contains the Chesnut Fountain, so called from its 
encircling trees. I dined again on board the Fu- 
rious. 

November 12th. — The French and English fleets 
continue to arrive by instalments. It was too gusty 
to walk ; still I went to dine on board the Britannia, 
two miles off in the Bosphorus: the Admiral has 
transferred himself thither and re-hoisted his flag. 
I was to have waited for the chance of one of his 
steamers calling at Athens; but, as they may be 
wanted for some Black Sea service, I shall go by 
the less precarious conveyance of the Austrian 
packet on Monday. The row back to shore in very 
smart rain helped to make me think it was time to 
get nearer to southern suns. 

November 12>th. — Once more on the Britannia for 
service, and probably I shall not be soon again in 
that ocean home of mine. What excessive kindness 
I have experienced within its stout old timbers 
Mr. Fox, the chaplain, gave for my closing im- 

N 



178 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



pression an excellent sermon. On my return I 
walked in the gardens of the Palace of France, 
which are very handsome, particularly a terrace 
under spreading pines, with a commanding view of 
the Bosphorus, now studded with the combined ships 
of four noble squadrons, the Turkish, Egyptian, 
French and English, about twenty-seven sail of the 
line, with numerous steamers. The English and 
French fleets have all arrived ; at present the French 
have nine, we only seven sail of the line; but we 
expect some powerful reinforcements. Some one 
proposed that, for the amusement of the inhabitants 
of Therapia, the two fleets should vary the long 
* period of suspense by an engagement with each 
other. The lengthened line of their peaceful array 
is very imposing. I dined at the hotel, after a long 
disuse, and went to take another last leave of the 
Skenes. 

November 14^. — Went down the Bosphorus in 
the Furious as far as Constantinople. After the 
chilly squalls of the last few days, I was glad that 
to my parting glance the gay shores glittered in 
sunshine. I called on Lord Stratford at his house 
in Pera, whither he has come for a few days. 
M. Lacour has just been recalled, to give place to 
General Baraguay d'Hilliers, who it is said is to be 



DARDANELLES. 



179 



accompanied by a train of twenty-seven officers. I 
saw some letters from Englishmen, eye-witnesses of 
the recent combat at Oltenitza. Both sides had 
fought very hard; the Turks had displayed great 
gallantry: they were about 3000 against 12,000 
Russians, whom they entirely drove off. It is true 
that the Turks were behind intrenchments ; they 
have, however, undoubtedly opened the campaign 
very successfully. Several very faithful friends ac- 
companied me to the steamer Imperatrice. We have 
very few passengers ; my acquaintance Mr. and Mrs. 
Epaminondas Baltazzi are among the number. 

November 1 5th. — At daylight off Gallipoli. The 
Dardanelles, the shores of the Chersonese and Troad, 
have become nearly as familiar to me as the avenues 
of Castle Howard. It seemed unnatural to see 
Besika Bay without a ship in its roads, or a booth 
upon its shores; all was gone but the tomb of 
(Esietes and the peak of Ida : — 

" All, save immortal dreams that could beguile 
The blind old man of Scio's rocky isle." 

Bride of Abydos. 

Neptune's old seat at Samothrace was covered with 
snow. We had a moonlight view of the little har- 
bour of Mitylene, which hardly let us distinguish its 
layers of olive groves. The weather was so changed 

N 2 



180 



SMYRNA. 



that I found it very agreeable to stand or sit on deck 
during our passage up the Gulf of Smyrna, till we 
cast anchor before the town at one in the morning. 

November 16th a — I feel that it is a sort of fatality 
which is constantly bringing me to Smyrna. I had 
become familiar enough with some of its hospitable 
residents to pay five visits, and eat two luncheons. 
I did not avail myself of an invitation from Black 
John, the Armenian dragoman, to visit Yani Katergi, 
who has been captured at last. Some of the Greeks 
are said to exhibit great sympathy with him : people 
seemed to be allowed to visit and converse with him, 
and there is no expectation of his meeting with 
the capital punishment which he so amply deserves. 
The weather was quite warm, but ice had been 
seen even here a few days ago. 

We set off at sunset ; and I am now, for a time at 
least, leaving the Turkish waters. I am tempted to 
throw back a momentary glance on the remarkable 
Empire which they bathe, at this portentous moment 
of its fortunes. Even independently of the direct 
alliance which now unites it with our own country 
and with the civilisation of Europe, and which makes 
their quarrel one, we must necessarily admire the 
high and even heroic spirit with which the Turkish 
rulers and people have now thrown themselves upon 



TURKEY. 



181 



the issue with that enormous Power, which, reckoned 
sufficiently colossal by the rest of Europe, must have 
tenfold threatening proportions for them. Moreover, 
in this fearful struggle which they have thus not 
shrunk from encountering, it is impossible not to 
admit that the justice of the cause is wholly on their 
side. In giving this opinion, I do not so much 
allude to the actual propositions of Prince Mentchi- 
koff, for which in the outset some plausible and even 
some substantial grounds might be alleged ; on the 
contrary, I do not think it well for any Christian 
state to leave its co-religionists to the uncovenanted 
forbearance of Mussulman rulers ; but the just con- 
demnation of Russia lies here, that in the course of 
the long subsequent negotiations and proceedings, 
both Turkey and Europe have given, and are still 
giving her abundant opportunities for preserving, 
with honour and advantage to herself, the peace of 
the world, but which in the obstinacy of her pride 
she has slighted and set at nought. At the same 
time, while our sympathy, our admiration, and our 
conscience are thus co-enlisted on the side of Turkey, 
I think that no calm observer should be misled either 
respecting her present condition or her probable 
prospects ; and this not with the view to what may 
be required of us in immediate action, but in order 

N 3 



182 



TURKEY. 



to make us cautious in calculating upon remote 
results, or in entering into new and inapplicable 
guarantees. 

Among the lower orders of the people, there is 
considerable simplicity and loyalty of character, and 
a fair disposition to be obliging and friendly. Among 
those who emerge from the mass, and have the op- 
portunities of helping themselves to the good things 
of the world, the exceptions from thorough-paced 
corruption and extortion are most rare ; and in the 
whole conduct of public business and routine of 
official life, under much apparent courtesy and un- 
do viating good breeding, a spirit of servility, de- 
traction, and vindictiveness appears constantly at 
work. The bulk of the people is incredibly un- 
informed and ignorant : I am told that now they 
fully believe that the French and English fleets have 
come in the pay of the Sultan ; and when the Aus- 
trian special mission of Count Leiningen arrived in 
the early part of this year, and led, by the way, to 
much of what has since occurred, they were per- 
suaded that its object was to obtain the permission of 
the Sultan for the young Emperor to wear his crown. 
Upon the state of morals I debar myself from enter- 
ing. Perhaps the most fatal, if not the most faulty 
bar to national progress, is the incurable indolence 



TUEKEY. 



183 



which pervades every class alike, from the Pasha, 
puffing his perfumed narghile in his latticed kiosk on 
the Bosphorus, to the man in the ragged turban who 
sits cross-legged with his unadorned tchibouque in 
front of a mouldy coffe e-shop in the meanest 
village. In fact, the conversation of every man 
whom I meet, who is well-informed on the state of 
the population, with very few exceptions, might be 
taken down as an illustration, often very uncon- 
sciously on their part, of the sense usually assigned 
to the prediction in the Apocalypse of the waters 
of the Euphrates being dried up. On the con- 
tinent, in the islands, it is the Greek peasant who 
works, and thrives; the Turk reclines, smokes his 
pipe, and decays. The Greek village increases 
its population, and teems with children ; in the 
Turkish village you find roofless walls and crum- 
bling mosques. Statesmen who do not see these 
matters with their own eyes, if told of the rotten 
state of the Ottoman Empire, are apt to say, 
they do not at all perceive that : — this Prussian 
General inspected their army the other day, and 
was highly pleased with its efficiency ; this English 
Captain went on board their fleet, and saw them 
work their guns, and said that it could not be 
better done in any English ship. Their military 

N 4 



184 



SYEA. 



hospitals are perfect models of arrangement and 
good order. I believe all this to be true, and I 
can well conceive that in one or two campaigns, 
on a first great outburst, the Turks might be 
victorious over their Russian opponents; but, when 
you leave the partial splendours of the capital 
and the great state establishments, what is it you 
find over the broad surface of a land which nature 
and climate have favoured beyond all others, once 
the home of all art and all civilisation ? Look your- 
self — ask those who live there — deserted villages, 
uncultivated plains, banditti-haunted mountains, 
torpid laws, a corrupt administration, a disap- 
pearing people. 

November 7tk. — We anchored early at Syra, in the 
dominions of Otho. Here we remained twelve hours 
in quarantine, which, with the subsequent night 
voyage, discharges us from any at Athens. It is 
always tantalising not to be allowed to land at a new 
place, though there may not be very much to invite 
it. Here is a well-shaped conical hill, capped with a 
church and a separate portion of the town belonging 
to the Roman Catholic Greeks ; between whom and 
those of the regular or orthodox Greek Church, 
forming of course by far the large majority, there is 
so much reciprocal aversion that they try to live as 



CYCLADES. 



185 



separately as possible. Two Austrian,, two English, 
one Turkish steamer, were in the small port. At 
the beginning of the Greek revolution, there were 
three houses here ; it is now a populous, clean, and 
busy-looking town, and possesses 1500 merchant 
brigs. All around are "the clustering Cyclacles." 
One of the most unpretending in appearance is Delos. 
In some respects the sight of these bare, insignificant, 
rocky patches, lowers the achievements of the old 
Grecian history to a series of paltry squabbles among 
jealous neighbours : but in others, it raises the idea 
of the race who have clothed their craggy surfaces 
and occasional shreds of verdure, with all the associ- 
ations of unsurpassed heroism, and immortal song. 

November 18th. — I came twice on the deck out of 
my berth to hail the point of Sunium, or Cape 
Colonna, like the Greek sailors of old. 

yevoifiav 
'Lv vXasv eirtGTi 7rovrov 
7rp6€\r)[x a\'uzkv<JTOV) aicpav 
V7r6 TrXdica Hovviov, 
rag tspdg oirug 7rpoera- 

'iroiii av 'AQavag. 

Aiaff, 1217.* 



* " O could I climb the woody steep, 

That hangs incumbent o'er the deep, 
From Sunium's cliff by waves for ever beat ! 



186 



PIRAEUS. 



However, the Dalmatian sailors do not observe 
the same ceremony, and I could neither make 
them understand me, nor point out the right head- 
land. Still, I saw the sun rise bright and clear 
upon the Piraeus; the water was blue and still, 
and the whole renowned panorama clear and vivid 
in the young warm ray: Salamis just beyond the 
azure stripe of sea, then Mount Parnes, then 
Pontelicus, then Hymettus, with the Acropolis 
just visible beneath. We were set free from our 
quarantine at ten, and I drove up to Athens, having 
contrived to have no one with me, which I always 
consider very essential for first approaches. I was 
first struck with the civilisation of the road : I had 
not seen such an one since England. There was a 
more complete disjunction between the port and 
capital than I had been prepared for ; the distance 
is about six miles, which I ought to have known ; I 
suppose that the ever-running parallel which is kept 
up between Athens and Edinburgh, and of which 
the main features are evident at a glance, had put 
Leith Road into my head. The general surface of 

Thence should my eye the lovely prospect greet, 
And smile on sacred Athens rising at my feet." 

Franklin. 

I do not know which is the worst, the geography or the 
poetry. 



ATHEXS. 



187 



the country has certainly a very arid aspect; but 
one passes through some olives and vines. The new 
town looks rather like a large village after Con- 
stantinople, but there are side pavements, and 
European-looking uniforms. I called on our 
minister, my old friend Mr. Wyse, who laid friendly 
force on me, and made me promise to come to take 
up my abode in his house to-morrow ; I thought one 
night was due to the expectation I must have excited 
at the Hotel d'Angleterre. I took a long walk with 
Mr. Wyse ; and even Athens could not require a 
more accomplished Cicerone, which is no mean 
panegyric. We first went over some of the modern 
town, which with its wide spaces for streets, and 
scattered white houses, put me much in mind of 
one of the new cities in the United States; much 
building is now going on, but the greater portion of 
the funds are sent from abroad; the Emperor of 
Russia makes considerable contributions to the 
churches, and there is a tendency among many of 
the Greek name to treat Athens as a sort of Mecca, 
and help to adorn it. This is a feeling one approves. 
The town of the Turkish times resembles other 
Turkish towns, with its narrow alleys and jutting 
angles ; and since the revolution, a number of Alba- 
nian settlers have been allowed to encumber in a 



188 



ATHENS. 



very unsightly manner tlie bases of the Acropolis, 
There seems to be a laudable affluence of academic 
institutions, and the new university has a very 
creditable appearance. The king's new palace is a 
most staring, ugly, browless-looking building. It is 
a blessed transition to the ruins of antiquity. We 
passed in succession Hadrian's arch, the temple of 
the Olympian Jupiter, the fountain of Callirhoe, 
the bed of the Ilyssus, the choragic monument of 
Lysicrates, the site of the theatre of Bacchus, the 
portico of the Furies, the theatre of Herodes 
Atticus, the Areopagus, the temple of Theseus ; — 
reserving the Parthenon for ampler leisure, and 
a brighter, though it could not easily be a softer 
sky. I have threaded all these pregnant names 
together, as the object of the day was rather to 
make a general survey, than a more special study of 
separate beauties and glories. "What is admirable 
and wonderful is the harmonious blending of every 
detached feature with each other, with the solemn 
mountains, the lucid atmosphere, the eternal sea, 
all wearing the same unchanged aspect as when 
the ships of Xerxes were shivered on that Colian 
cape beneath ; as when the slope of the Acropolis 
was covered with its Athenian audience to listen 
under this open sky to .ZEschylus and Sophocles, to 



ATHENS. 



189 



the Agamemnon, or the CEdipus ; as when St. Paul 
stood on the topmost stone of yon Hill of Mars, and, 
while summit above and plain below bristled with 
idols, proclaimed with the words of a power to which 
not even Pericles could ever have attained, the 
counsel of the true God. Let me just remark, that 
even the impressive declaration of the Apostle, that 
" God dwelleth not in temples made with hands, 55 
may seem to grow in effect when we remember that 
the buildings to which he must have almost inevitably 
pointed at that very moment were the most perfect 
that the hands of man have ever reared, and must have 
comprised the Theseum below, and the Parthenon 
above him. It seems to have been well that cc art 
and man's device" should be reduced to their proper 
level, on the very spot of their highest development 
and glory. 

November 19th. — I left the hotel, which is a well- 
built and well-placed house, and transferred myself 
to most comfortable quarters, with Mr. Wyse. His 
house is excellent, and has a very pretty marble 
staircase. Mr. Finlay called upon me ; the appro- 
priation of his garden was one of our long-pending 
Greek controversies ; he says, that the modern 
Greeks wholly ignore (I beg pardon for the use of 
the word) the whole period from Alexander the 



190 



ATHENS. 



Great to Lord Palnierston, which is an appropriate 
complaint from a historian of mediaeval Greece. I 
walked to-day with Mr. Wyse, first to inspect the 
collection of fragments of sculpture collected in the 
interior of the temple of Theseus; some have 
interest, and many of them beauty; among the 
former there is especially a very curious representa- 
tion of a w^arrior in rather flat relief, of the size of 
life, discovered not long ago near Marathon, which 
has the most striking resemblance to the Assyrian 
figures from Nineveh ; the cut of the beard is the 
same ; the features of the face have rather more of a 
Grecian cast. We then went to the site of the 
Pnyx, or at least its generally reputed site, for 
Stuart thought it was a theatre ; and Valckaer recently 
contends for its being a temple, and assigns the spot 
supposed to be the IBrjfia, or tribune, where the 
orator stood, for an altar. It seems, however, to 
answer all the conditions of the classical hustings, 
with the Agora, where it was known to have been 
placed, beneath it; a sufficient platform for the 
audience ; and a commanding station for the speaker, 
with the Propylaea of the Acropolis just opposite for 
Demosthenes to address.* It is said that the old 

* He twice couples the Propylaea with the Parthenon, as if 
pointing to them. UponvXcaa tclvtoi, 6 irapQtvuJv — " These 
Propylaea or vestibules, the Parthenon," &c. 



ATHENS. 



191 



place of assembly was on a still higher ridge, from 
which the sea and Salamis were visible, but was 
removed lower down in the time of the Thirty 
Tyrants, to prevent the appeals which were con- 
stantly made to the scenes of past glories. We then 
went to the height on which the monument to Philo- 
pappus stands, in which a more Romanising archi- 
tecture becomes visible, and returned under the rock 
of the Acropolis. We had still desisted from enter- 
ing it, as the day, though warm and soft, was dark 
and lowering. The thermometer was at 65°, which 
is pretty well for a cloudy November day. Mr. Hill 
dined with us, the English Chaplain here, and an 
American by birth, which cannot be a common com- 
bination. He and his wife have effected great good in 
the education of girls : his conversation is very plea- 
sant and intelligent. We had also a very well-condi- 
tioned attache to the legation, a son of Dr. Locock. 

November 20th. — I went to the English church ; it 
is of rather a bald Gothic ; I think it must have ine- 
vitably suggested itself to the accomplished architect, 
Mr. Cockerell, whether it would not have been more 
in keeping to have adopted a Grecian, or at least a 
Byzantine form : the interior is very pleasing, and 
the service was agreeably performed by Mr. Hill. 
My walk in the afternoon with Mr. Wyse comprised, 



192 



ATHENS. 



first, the new Greek cathedral, which is now in pro- 
gress of erection ; it will be a handsome and stately 
building, after good Byzantine models : the decora- 
tive portions and columns are either in Pentelic, 
Hymettian, or Parian marble. The old cathedral 
stands hard by, a very lowly and modest tenement 
of probably the tenth or eleventh century : several 
old Greek fragments and bas-reliefs are inserted in 
the walls. Great exertions are being made on every 
side in the erection or repair of churches. We went 
on to the Temple of the Winds ; the sculpture is but 
coarse ; then to the gate of the new Agora, of rather 
graceful Doric in the time of Augustus ; and to the 
portico of Hadrian, where there is another collection 
of ancient fragments. Nothing can exceed the 
neglected and squalid condition of these interesting 
buildings ; the Temple of the Winds was undergoing 
a systematic pelting from the ingenuous boyhood of 
Athens. It can hardly have been worse in Turkish 
times, and it certainly continues to afford the best 
justification to Lord Elgin. Here has been another 
day without seeing the Parthenon, but the sky has 
been very dingy. Two English officers from Corfu 
dined with us. 

November 2lst — I called on Mr. and Mrs. Hill, 
who showed me over their school. They have now 



ATHENS. 



193 



about 300 girls; the larger portion belong to the 
poorer classes, but there are some of the wealthier, 
who are taught French and English, as well as 
Greek. Almost all seemed intelligent and lively, 
and their eagerness for instruction is described as 
most remarkable. Formerly, the same number of 
boys were admitted, but after the opening of se- 
veral excellent schools by the Government, the Hills 
thought that they should act most usefully in con- 
fining themselves to girls. Mrs. Hill appeared to be 
a person of as much single and fresh-minded benevo- 
lence as I have ever met. They came to Athens in 
1830; at that period there were not 1000 inhabit- 
ants, and not a single dwelling which could be called 
a house : yet in a few days they had about ninety 
scholars, and have gone on ever since. The popula- 
tion is now about 28,000, and even the modern town 
is on the whole fair to view. I do not wish to form 
premature judgments, but there seems to be much in 
the body of the people themselves to encourage hope 
for the future, if they could have fair play and good 
government. Mr. Hill has a comparatively favour- 
able opinion of the Greek Church ; they give direct 
encouragement to the reading of the Scriptures, and 
he knows some of their bishops to be both excellent 
and highly learned men ; he especially mentioned 

o 



194 



ATHENS, 



the Archbishop of Patras, who is designated to be 
Archbishop of Athens and Metropolitan of Greece. 
They have never been molested in their proceedings 
but once, when the ultra-Russian party raised a cry 
against them for attempting to proselytise : a com- 
mission of Greek bishops was appointed, at Mr. Hill's 
own request, to inquire into the charge, which was 
completely disproved. I called on Mr. Finlay, who 
has a very good library: he gave an interesting 
account of Lord Byron, with whom he had lived 
much just before his last illness. It was an afternoon 
of confirmed rain, and I appropriately devoted it to 
the Clouds of Aristophanes, the TiapQkvoi dfjb/3po<fi6poi.* 
Mr. Finlay dined with us. He and Mr. Wyse flow 
congenially together, on topics of history and art. 

November 22nd. — I at last accomplished the Acro- 
polis. Mr. Wyse could not come with me, but con- 
signed me to the charge of M. Pittakys, the director 
of antiquities, who showed and explained the whole 
sacred site, in the most obliging and thoroughly 
competent manner. One sees, indeed, that it is a 
labour of love with him; he spends part of every 
day on the spot, and he has done very much in clear- 
ing the ground, and classifying the fragments. It 
does not rest with him that a great deal more is not 

* Shower-laden maids. 



ATHENS. 



195 



done, and he is very intent on having some unosten- 
tatious building erected for a museum on the spot. 
To him, among many other things, are due the open- 
ing of the way under the Propylaea, and the absolute 
discovery of the temple of Victory " without wings." 
A gateway immediately opposite to the centre of the 
Propylaea has recently been brought to light by the 
excavations made by a French gentleman, but this 
is confidently set down to 400 years after Christ. 
Concerning the general effect of the whole, with 
which I alone pretend to deal, everything is most 
imposing, everything most beautiful. The approach 
through the five-fold depth of the columns of the 
Propylsea is august in the highest degree ; the triple 
divisions of the Erectheum are full of the most 
delicate grace ; the temple of the unwinged Victory is 
exquisitely small ; but of course all emotion and glory 
are concentrated in the Parthenon. This is the build- 
ing in which no human being has yet been able to dis- 
cover a fault, but in which, on the contrary, every new 
year is discovering unsuspected wonders of skill and 
harmonies of combination. Into these, as I need not 
again intimate, I dare not enter : how the spans of the 
shaft and how the spaces of the intercolumniation differ 
in order to produce the effect of agreement; how 
the predominance of convex lines makes the whole 

o 2 



196 



ATHENS. 



building look larger than it really is, from distant 
points of view, while the non-observance of the same 
laws at the Bavarian Valhalla, make it, and all other 
copies of the original, look smaller than they really 
are : but here you have the temple of Pericles and his 
Phidias, shattered, defaced, stripped,— by Goth, by 
Venetian, by Turk, by earthquake, by time, by Lord 
Elgin, — still serene in its indestructible beauty; 
still giving the model and the law to every clime and 
every age. Then from the front of this faultless 
edifice comes in Lord Byron's sunset view, which, as 
I am sure I could not improve upon, I leave alone ; 
I think it, perhaps, the most glorious passage of his 
many-chorded lyre. I had not yet the advantage of 
seeing the spot under its appropriate and customary 
sky and sunshine ; it was a brown mild day of 
English autumn. Ever since I have looked at the 
Acropolis, I have wished for the removal of the high 
square tower, the mediaeval work of one of its Italian 
rulers : I found M. Pittakys quite concurred in this 
wish: Mr. Wyse does not, as he thinks the shape 
picturesque in itself, and that all monuments of pro- 
gressive history are interesting : I should subscribe 
to this last view as touching most sites, but not 
the sacred hill. Mr. "Wyse's sister-in-law and niece 
returned from a tour in the Ionian islands, with 



ATHENS. 



197 



another lady, Miss Murray. They add much to the 
attractions of his luxurious home. 

November 23rd. — I walked after breakfast to the 
top of Mount Anchesmus, as I mean to call it, with 
the sanction of M. Pittakys, and not Mount Lyca- 
betus; this is what in the parallel with Edinburgh 
answers to Arthur's Seat, but here the Scottish hill 
has the advantage. I descended to the Ilissus, 
walked some way in its bed, which even after some 
copious rains was a perfectly dry channel, and re- 
turned by Callirhoe. We attempted to ride after 
luncheon with the ladies, but the rain drove us back. 
General Church dined with us : he is a chivalrous 
old soldier, and mourns over the spoiled fortunes of 
Greece. He thinks well, on the whole, of the people 
themselves, if they had been allowed fair play. 
Mrs. Wyse amused me by telling how seriously she 
had affronted a gentleman of Cephalonia, by ima- 
gining that his island had belonged to Ulysses in 
common with Ithaca : no ; Ulysses had taken charge 
of the troops at Troy, but the island was entirely 
independent of his government. 

November 24^.- — We had a better sun to-day than 
I had yet seen. I walked in the morning to the 
hill of Philopappus ; we all rode in the afternoon to 
Daphne, six miles on the Sacred Way to Eleusis : it 



198 



ATHENS. 



was the site of temples to Apollo and Venus. There 
is now a curious church in which the Greek and 
Latin architecture are blended: there is a gigantic 
head of our Saviour in mosaic within the roof of the 
cupola ; and on one of the sides there are the tombs 
of some Dukes of Athens, of the family of Delaroehe. 
The views were very lovely, but we contrived to 
miss the sunset on the Acropolis. The Prussian, 
Austrian, and Turkish Ministers dined with us, and 
a few people came after dinner. I thought one or 
two of the Greek ladies pretty, and quite unaffected 
in manner. Those who wish to be well with the 
Court do not come to our Minister's house. 

November 25 th. — We had destined to-day for 
Eleusis, but it rained almost continually. I believe 
I have arrived for the one rainy week of the year 
at Athens. 

November 26th. — We accomplished Eleusis to-day; 
we set off soon after ten, and divided the distance of 
twelve miles between riding and driving. The de- 
scent on the Bay of Eleusis and the Thriasian plain 
is very striking. I was glad to find that the de- 
scription of the site I had given a long time ago in 
my Oxford prize poem was remarkably accurate. 
There are few actual remain^, except some large 
fragments of broken columns ; and it is a peculiarity 



ELEUSIS. 



199 



of those on the precise spot of the temple of Ceres 
that they belong to both the Doric and Ionic orders. 
There must be much interesting scope for excavation 
here; the rocky hill of the Acropolis immediately 
adjoining must probably have many subterranean 
facilities for the processes of initiation. Our luncheon 
was put out on the broad base of a marble pillar ; 
and during that unmystic ceremony we were sur- 
rounded by a large portion of the youth of Eleusis : 
they are mainly of Albanian descent. This cradle 
of agriculture did not seem more carefully cultivated 
than most other portions of the Greek territory. 
The day was not positively bad, but dingy and grey, 
and did not show off Mounts Cithseron and Gera- 
nion in their best lights. In the evening I went 
with the ladies and Mr. Wyse to the opera. The 
King and Queen, who go on most nights, were in 
the opposite box : he wears the Greek dress ; she is 
very well-looking, —has become rather large of late. 
The house was pretty full, with a good many officers 
in the stalls. The piece was the " Attila " of Yerdi ; 
the artists tolerable. 

November 27th. — Went to church, Mr. Blakiston, 
the chaplain at Constantinople, preached. In the 
afternoon there is a sort of parade, where a military 
band plays, and there is some gathering of people ; 

o 4 



200 



MARATHON. 



and the King and Queen come on horseback, and 
ride once or twice round the ring, which I thought 
they did very gracefully. She is famous for her 
hard riding, and has been known to kill her horses 
in some of her long expeditions. I walked with 
Mr. Wyse to Colonus, and we stood at twilight on 
its modest hill. The wild thyme smelt as sweet as 
any of the gaudier flowers which Sophocles describes 
as adorning the spot in the most engaging of his 
choruses * ; the vineyards and olive grounds imme- 
diately below formed 

" The olive grove of Academe, 
Plato's retirement." — Paradise Regained. 

November 28th. — We made an expedition to 
Marathon: Mr. and Miss Wyse, Miss Murray, 
Mr. Locock, and I. We started a little before 
seven ; drove to Kephisia, a village rather prettily 
placed among olive gardens near the source of the 
Cephisus, ten miles off. There we all mounted horses, 
and rode the twelve miles further to Marathon. The 
descent upon Tirana, the village which is generally 
thought to be the ancient Marathon, and not the 
modern Marathona, is most striking, both from actual 
beauty of scenery as well as from preciousness of 
recollections. There is a sudden turn among the 

* (Ed. Col. 668. 



MARATHON. 



201 



spurs of Pentelicus, which gives you the sea, the 
long and varied line of Euboea, some tributary isles 
beyond^ some well-formed pine-clad slopes in the 
foreground^ and at your feet the immortal plain. 
Topographers like Colonel Leake and Mr. Finlay 
have so well described the site, and Dr. J ohnson has 
so condensed the sentiment of the scene, that there 
is nothing left to be said by others. The ground 
completely explains and illustrates the battle. It is 
now thought that there was not the amazing disparity 
of force which some accounts have claimed ; probably 
about 22,000 Greeks to 46,000 Persians. The main 
cause which has made the victory such a turning 
point in the history of the world, was the previous 
awe attached to the Persian power and prowess. It 
w^as, on a larger scale, what Maid a was in the last 
French war. Before Marathon, the Persians had 
conquered the Greeks in Ionia : if it had not been for 
Marathon, there would have been probably no Ther- 
mopylae, Salamis, or Plataga. Persia was, in fact, the 
Russia of that day, looming so formidably in the 
distance, and found so brittle in the actual shock. 
The term of MapaOoovo/^d^aL in Aristophanes shows 
the peculiar emphasis which was subsequently at- 
tached to this battle : it seems to have been used 
much as we might now talk of Peninsular veterans, — 



202 



ATHENS. 



arnrTol yspovTsg, 7rplvivoi, 
'ArepctjioveC) MapaOwvofJidxa^ G^tvcdixvivoi* 

Achar. 181. 

We had our luncheon — for one must eat even at 
Marathon— under some old olives; then rode to the 
mound which was the tomb of the 192 Greeks, near 
the sea, in the centre of the fight, and returned by 
the Marathona road. Our horses did noble duty, 
for some of the ascents and descents both ways are 
most precipitous, and increase the admiration for the 
rapid march home of the Athenians after the battle. 
We reached Kephisia at six, after some quick gallop- 
ing in the dark, and Athens just before eight. 

November 29th. — A post came from England. I 
had some sorrowful family intelligence, and was glad 
to take a solitary walk about the Acropolis. The 
skies are still uninterruptedly grey, and thus far I 
cannot confirm the accounts of all the modern re- 
sidents of Athens, as well as Euripides, 

• . • aid Sid XafXTrpordrov 
flaivovreg dGpwg aiGkpoQ.^ 

Medea. 



* " Chips of the holm oak, or the sturdy maple, 

Fit subjects for a fight at Marathon." — Mitchell. 

■J* " The purest air delighted breathe, 

The clearest skies beneath."-— Potter. 



PHYLiE. 



203 



But no hues can come amiss to the Parthenon or 
Propylsea. 

November 30th. — We set off at eight on an expedi- 
tion to Phylse, going five miles in a carriage to the foot 
of the hills, and riding the other nine. We first halted 
at the convent under the most precipitous rocks 
of the pass, where Mr. and Miss Wyse sketched. 
We found here two or three friars, and a shaggy- 
looking man > whom our guide, the popular Yani, 
knew to be a brigand: he had come there to 
confess, and I believe to induce the friars to obtain 
his pardon from the Government. We then went 
on to the fortress of great renown, where Thra- 
sybulus and his seventy held out against all the 
power of the Thirty Tyrants. The masonry spring- 
ing out of the clefted rocks is still admirable; the 
position on its steep eyrie above the converging 
gorges most striking ; the distant view of the Acro- 
polis, the islands, and the sea, ought also to have 
looked beautiful, but the persevering moist grey at- 
mosphere is still as faithful a transcript of Scotland 
as the other features of the scenery. I am every 
day more impressed with this resemblance : you have 
only to substitute the olive for the birch, and the 
arbutus, oleander, and cystus for the heather ; but in 
these respects Scotland would hardly be the gainer 



204 



ATHENS. 



by the change with a view to picturesque effects. 
After taking our luncheon under the shelter of 
the fort, which was very necessary for us against 
the chilly breeze, we returned by a different road, 
still eminently picturesque, to our carriage, and 
reached Athens by five* 

December 1st — Violent rain all day. The Prus- 
sian and French legations, the Greek minister of war 
and his wife (Soutzos), and one or two more dined 
here, and more came in the evening ; there was a 
little music. Among the Greeks, M. Pericles Ar- 
gyropoulos and M. Dragoumi seem very intelligent 
and enlightened men. 

December 2nd. — The day nearly as bad. It 
makes me get on better with Aristophanes than I 
should have done otherwise. I am now reading 
the Acharnians. General Church came in the 
evening. 

December 3rd. — After luncheon it no longer 
rained, and I went with Mr. Wyse to the Acropolis. 
It was the first time that I had done so in his com- 
panionship, and no one can know or appreciate its 
beauties better. We dwelt particularly to-day on 
the figure 'of the winged Victory taking off her 
sandal, which is now placed in the temple of Victory 
" without wings ; " but this and many other precious 



ATHENS. 



205 



fragments ought to be under some cover. It is plain, 
from the small holes made in the marble, that there 
were formerly many gold decorations connected with 
the drapery of the statues, as there were also clearly 
gilt or bronze ornaments, and coloured patterns in 
each soffit or panel of the roof of the temples gene- 
rally. We heard in the evening of the arrival of 
the Wasp screw-ship, Captain Lord John Hay, from 
the Bosphorus, who will give me a lift as far as 
Alexandria. 

December 4th. — At ten I went with Miss Murray 
for an hour before our service to the Russian church, 
where M. and Madame Persiany admitted us to their 
tribune. It is a small edifice, neatly fitted up ; and 
the singing, for which we mainly went, is carefully 
and impressively executed. There is a more constant 
crossing of themselves by the priests than in the Latin 
ritual. The Emperor sends frequent assistance to the 
Greek churches. In the afternoon we went again to 
the parade, and afterwards walked in the Queen's 
garden, which is laid out with considerable care and 
taste, and must be very enjoyable. Few indeed 
must be the royal or imperial gardens which can 
boast of such a view : the columns of J upiter Olym- 
pius look as if they belonged to it; the rock of the 
Acropolis rises in front ; and the sea and Hymettus 



206 



ATHENS. 



bound the horizon. I do not wonder that Mr. Finlay 
thought that he ought to be properly paid for his por- 
tion of such a site ; or that the Queen is reported to 
have said, when the King was on the verge of abdica- 
tion in preference to signing the Constitution in 1843, 
that she could not give up such a palace and garden. 
Lord John Hay and General Church dined with us. 
Lord John represents the Turks as being in high 
spirits at the judicious manner in which Omer Pasha 
has conducted their short campaign, and very little 
disposed for any present accommodation. 

December 5th. — Prepared for departure. I have 
accomplished the Clouds and Acharnians of Aristo- 
phanes during my Athenian residence. Perhaps it 
is rather a wholesome corrective for the undue ad- 
miration that might be inspired by the Propylaea and 
Parthenon, to see the coarse buffoonery which such 
a people relished, and to which such a genius stooped. 
One is frequently reminded of Moliere. In the 
afternoon we took a home-ride by the three old 
harbours of Athens. The skies have not yet become 
clear, but there was a grand sunset effect of concen- 
trated light on the Acropolis, against a very dark 
background. Professor Felton, of Cambridge, Mas- 
sachusetts, came in during the evening ; he had been 
making a tour of some extent in the interior, but had 



ATHENS. 



207 



been very much impeded by the unusual rains. He 
had, however, been greatly delighted. We were in 
entire sympathy about the unparalleled associations 
clustered at Athens. The Athenian Senate has 
shown a rather unsuspected symptom of independ- 
ence in refusing to elect the Court candidates for the 
office of Vice-Presidents. 

December 6th. — This was my last day, during this 
present visit at least: I cannot resign the hope of 
renewing it for a short time in the more genial days 
of spring. We spent this last day not unworthily. 
Our ladies, Mr. Wyse, Lord John, and I, rode by 
Daphne, turned off the Eleusis road, and threaded the 
coast opposite Salamis back to the Piraeus: what 
names to gather into a morning ride ! we, of course, 
were on the whole track of the Persian battle. When 
we had selected a sheltered corner from the wind, we 
had a bright warm sun for our luncheon on the rock ; 
and I was glad to feel how pleasantly one could bask 
during an Athenian December. After dinner Lord 
John and I left the more than hospitable and social 
fireside of our excellent and accomplished Minister, 
and embarked on board the Wasp at midnight. 

I have barely adverted to the politics of modern 
Greece: during one fortnight, at least, ancient 
Hellas repels all other intrusion, and, truth to say, 



208 



ATHENS. 



there is but little attraction in the modern competitor 
for notice. I should also shrink from any direct 
references to those with whom I have conversed; 
I may, however, most truthfully sum up, from all 
that I have seen, or read, or heard among persons of 
different nations, stations, and principles, that the 
present Government of Greece seems to be about the 
most inefficient, corrupt, and, above all, contemptible, 
with which a nation was ever cursed. The Consti- 
tution is so worked as to be constantly and flagrantly 
evaded or violated ; the liberty of election is shame- 
fully infringed ; and where no overt bribery or inti- 
midation are employed, — charges from which we 
Englishmen can, I fear, by no means make out 
an exemption, — the absence of the voters, who 
regard the whole process as a mockery, is compen- 
sated by the electoral boxes being filled with voting- 
papers by the gens d'armerie, — a height of impudence 
to which we have not yet soared. Persons the most 
discredited by their characters and antecedents are 
forced on the reluctant constituencies, and even 
occasionally advanced to places of high trust and 
dignity. The absence of legislative checks is 
not atoned for by the vigour of the executive in pro- 
moting public improvements. Agriculture stagnates ; 
manufactures do not exist ; the communications, ex- 



G-REECE. 



209 



cept in the immediate neighbourhood of the capital, 
where they are good, are deplorable ; the provinces — 
and here I can hardly except the neighbourhood of 
the capital — teem with robbers. The navy, for which 
the aptitude of the people is remarkable, consists of 
one vessel : the public debt is not paid : an offer by a 
company of respectable individuals to institute a steam 
navigation, for which the seas and shores of Greece 
offer such innumerable facilities, was declined at the 
very period of my visit, because it was apprehended 
that it would be unpalatable to Austria. Bitter, in- 
deed, is the disappointment of those who formed bright 
auguries for the future career of regenerate Greece, 
and made generous sacrifices in her once august and 
honored cause. Yet the feeling so natural to them, 
so difficult to avoid for us all, should still stop far 
short of despair. When it is remembered that, about 
twenty-three years ago, the only building at the 
Piraeus was a small convent, and that at the same 
time there was not a single entire roof in Athens ; 
and that we now find, at the harbour, noble wharves 
and substantial streets, and at the base of the Acro- 
polis, not indeed a renewal of its elder glories, but 
what would be thought anywhere a fresh and comely 
city ; — it would be impossible to deny either the 
possibility, or presence of progress : it is of deeper 

p 



210 GREECE. 

importance, that, as I believe, there undoubtedly are 
solid materials for advance and improvement among 
the bulk of the Greek people themselves ; their high 
intelligence no detractor could think of denying ; they 
seem capable of patient and persevering industry ; 
the zeal for education pierces to the very lowest 
ranks ; many instances are known of young men and 
women coming to Athens, as I before had occasion 
to remark, and engaging in service for no other 
wages than the permission or opportunity to attend 
some place of instruction : and when an exception is 
made of the classes most exposed to contact with 
the abuses of government, and the frivolities of a 
society hurriedly forced into a premature and imper- 
fect refinement, there is much of homely simplicity, 
cheerful temperance, and hearty good-will amidst the 
main body of the country population. The most 
essential element in thus forecasting the destinies of 
a people, is their religion: it is notorious that the 
religion of the modern Greeks is encumbered with 
very much both of ignorance and superstition : I 
believe that, in instituting a fair comparison of the 
Greek Church with her Latin sister, she must be ac- 
knowledged to lag behind her, in the activity and 
zeal which constitute the missionary character of a 
church, and in the spirit of association for purposes 



RHODES. 



211 



of benevolence: but she possesses a superiority in 
two points, full of value and pregnant with promise ; 
she has more tolerance towards other religious com- 
munities, and she encourages the perusal of the Holy- 
Scriptures. 

December 7 th. — With day came something of a 
swell, which I felt more than anything since my 
landing at Calais. We passed Paros and Naxos 
under a gloomy sky, but with a fair wind, which is 
so far fortunate, as the captains of screws are under 
strict orders from the Admiralty not to use their 
coals unless in case of danger or emergency. Lord 
John's cabin is rather limited, but he makes me most 
comfortable. 

December 8 th. — We had to-day a bright soft sky, 
but scarcely any wind, so that we barely made two 
knots an hour. We came within sight of Asia, and 
of my old friend Rhodes, whither we are first bound 
to deliver a letter from the ambassador to Mr. 
Newton. 

December 9th. — We landed in the morning at 
Rhodes, but the sea-born island of the Sun-God had 
but a sorry appearance, as it rained in torrents. 
What I minded more, Mr. Newton was away, having 
gone into the interior upon one of his usual antiqua- 
rian forays. My popular young friend, Blunt, re- 

p 2 



212 



RHODES. 



ceived us very cordially, and I went with him and 
Lord John to pay a visit to the Pasha ; it was my 
third. He is certainly the most thoroughly pleasing 
and well-bred of all the Turks whom I have seen, 
and they are generally the reverse of deficient in 
these attributes. He was very full of the surprise 
of a portion of the Turkish fleet by a superior 
Russian naval force at Sinope, and he gave us an 
account of a Turkish steamer having forced her way 
through the Russian ships in order to carry the in- 
telligence to Constantinople; her captain had de- 
clined to make the attempt, upon which the crew 
bound him, and the second in command occupied 
his place. We started again before dark, and had 
an extremely rough night. I believe there was even 
some little anxiety about our weathering the coast of 
Rhodes, on one of our tacks. Lord John is very 
indefatigable on deck; he is in all respects one of 
the finest fellows imaginable. 

December 10th. — We were all day coasting the 
Lycian shore; it presents the usual front of grey 
precipice so universal in these seas, with occasionally 
a higher chain peering up behind. We must have 
passed the mouth of the Xanthus, and the sacred 
steep of Apollo at Patara (Patareus Apollo), but we 
were not near enough to distinguish minute features. 



ADALIA. 



213 



December Will. — Our progress was very slow 
during the night; wind contrary, and the working 
of the screw affected by the badness of the coal 
procured at Athens. Prayers were read by the 
purser, who had been in the habit of doing it before 
Lord John came to the ship. After sunset we 
anchored in front of Adalia, on the shore of Pam- 
phylia. Our vice-consul, Mr. Purdie, came off to 
us. The ship had been directed to put in here, as 
it is almost the only spot in the Turkish dominions 
(except some parts of Syria) where any disturbance 
has been heard of recently. Here it has arisen from 
the rise in the price of grain, and some attacks have 
been consequently made on the corn-merchants, of 
whom the Vice-consul is one; and he had at one 
time been laid hold of, and had found it necessary 
to leave the place for some little time. Another 
proof, this, how ill-assorted together are the con- 
sular and mercantile functions : however, unless the 
salaries of vice-consuls should be raised, it would be 
clearly impossible to find any competent and dis- 
interested person willing to spend his days at Adalia, 
without any society whatever, with milk only to be 
had occasionally, and with no flesh for the table but 
that of goats. This seemed to be the epitome of 
f € Life in Adalia, " Some two hundred Turkish 

P 3 



214 



ADALIA. 



troops had been landed two days before our arrival, 
who it was hoped would completely restore tran- 
quillity. 

December 12th. — I went twice on shore in the 
morning, the first time to take a walk before break- 
fast. The position of the place is very good ; the 
line of travertine marble mountain that comes down 
to the western brink of the gulf, with the snow top 
of Mount Climax rising behind, is extremely beau- 
tiful: the town itself is highly picturesque, with 
different layers of old walls, fragments of marbles 
and columns imbedded in them, Roman-looking 
arches surmounted by Turkish cyphers; tumble-down 
houses, streets excessively steep, and worse-paved 
even than the usual Turkish type; streams of the 
purest water running throiigh and over each of them ; 
and, what is the most pleasant feature, a multitude 
of gardens, singularly ill-kept indeed, but blending 
the ilex, and fig, and vine, and orange, and sweet- 
lemon, in the softest and richest verdure. Such is 
the soil for a large circuit round, up to the base of 
the marble amphitheatre of mountains which branch 
from the great Taurus chain : and large quantities of 
grain are, and of course much larger might be, pro- 
duced. There are remains of large substructions for 
an harbour, and one might easily be reconstituted, 



AD ALIA. 



215 



which would be of singular benefit to the commerce 
of the region. The town has about 14,000 inhabit- 
ants. In short, Adalia might be a paradise, worthy 
of changing one letter of its name with its opposite 
neighbour in Cyprus, and becoming an Idalia ; it is 
what has been already epitomised as "Life in Adalia." 
After we had given the Vice-consul breakfast on 
board, I accompanied him, Lord J ohn, and some of 
the officers, in a procession, on some very well-looking 
horses, up the precipitous and irriguous streets to 
the konak, or residence of the Governor : we found 
him with a Commissioner just arrived from Constan- 
tinople, to inquire into the recent disorders ; and 
Lord J ohn was able to intimate sufficient confidence 
in their energy and judgment to render it unneces- 
sary for his ship to stay any longer : the Commis- 
sioner seemed to have a great wish for a ship to go 
away in himself. We also paid a visit to two 
Judges ; one of whom, a very intelligent man, had 
been Turkish Commissioner to the Great Exhibition 
in London ; what seemed to have impressed him 
most was having dined with Lord Palmerston. We 
paid a third visit to the military commander. We 
left the Pamphylian shore in the afternoon; the 
climate appeared delicious. 

December 13th.- — To-day was cloudy, with a mo- 
p 4 



216 



ALEXANDKETTA. 



derate breeze in our favour. We had a very beauti- 
ful sunset, approaching more nearly to the richness 
and variety of the American sunsets than almost 
any I have yet seen in the East. Above were those 
thin streaks of cloud, too bright to be called rosy, 
too mellow to be called golden; below these was 
that clear space of green, so pale, so pure, so tender, 
as to make it, I think, the most peculiar tint of the 
whole heaven ; and below this again, that lustrous 
saffron haze, which is nearest to the chambers of the 
parting orb. I hope to be excused; I will not be 
prodigal in sunsets in future. All these glories 
were followed by an awfully rolling sea at night, 
without much provocation from wind. 

December 14th. — We went well along on a fine 
clear, breezy day, with Cyprus on our right and 
Cilicia on our left. It appears to me that the whole 
intermediate range of Pamphylian and Cilician coast, 
from the mouth of the Eurymedon, the scene of 
Cimon's victory, on to Tarsus, the " no mean city," is 
very deficient both in classical and historical associ- 
ations. We have now the brilliancy of the full moon 
during the early part of the evening, but clouds 
and rain are apt to come on later; they hindered 
us to-night from making out the anchorage of Scan- 
deroon, otherwise called Alexandretta* 



ALEXANDKETTA. 



217 



December loth — The morning continued so hazy, 
that they were unable to discover any town at 
all, and we first anchored opposite a fort about 
eight miles higher up in the gulf. We found after- 
wards that it was inhabited by a Turkish governor, 
who is himself at the head of the principal robbers 
by which the district is infested. The afternoon 
was extremely wet, and we did not land : our Vice- 
consul, Mr. Murphy, came to the ship ; he has not 
been above two months at his post, which he looks 
upon, not apparently without reason, as the worst 
in the world. It is surrounded on all sides by a very 
unwholesome marsh, and there is no human being he 
can consort with. The place has only 500 inha- 
bitants, but there is a very considerable amount of 
traffic, as it is the only real port on the whole coast 
of Syria ; and is on the direct line from Aleppo to 
Smyrna and the rest of the world. A large export 
of grain takes place, especially to France. The 
troops are now entirely withdrawn, and there seems 
no reason why the robbers should not have the entire 
command of the country. Much alarm seems to be 
felt at Aleppo, which is a day's journey in the 
interior. 

December 16th. — Mr. Murphy breakfasted with 
us, and we went on shore with him. There are four 



218 



SYRIA. 



or five stone houses, of which his is the best ; and the 
ruins of an extensive English factory, standing naked 
in the midst of an oozy marsh. There are picturesque 
hills round the gulf, but we saw them under low 
and dingy skies. The only compensation for such a 
residence is the regular arrival of the French and 
Austrian steamers. We paid a visit to the Captain 
of a Turkish brig in the bay : he had the straight- 
forward courtesy which is so common among Turkish 
authorities ; he gave us tea, which I had never seen 
done before, besides the usual coffee, pipe, and sweet- 
meat. We set off in the afternoon. 

December 17 th. — Bright, soft day, along the 
Syrian coast. I must make this a rhymed entry. 

Blow, gentle airs ! but on your balmy wing 

I ask no flowery tribute of the spring, 

No spicy buds in Antioch's vale that bloom, 

No silken stores from rich Aleppo's loom, 

Nor all the wealth that down Orontes' tide 

With Syrian softness hardier climes supplied.* 

Blow, gentle airs ! on this fair eastern eve 

With breath as holy as the land ye leave ; 

From Lebanon's peaks, from blue Gennesareth's shore, 

On the worn heart divine refreshment pour ; 

From Nazareth's slope, from high Capernaum's crest, 

Shed heavenly healing on the sinful breast ; 



* " Syrus in Tiberim defluxit Orontes." — Juv. in. 62. 



TRIPOLI. 



219 



And in the calm and brightness rnirror'd here. 
Waft the blest presage of a purer sphere. 

December 18 th. — At noon we anchored off Tripoli* 
It is well backed by one of the northern offshoots 
of the Lebanon range ; the summits are now covered 
with snow. There is a smaller town, or Marina, 
close to the beach, at which we landed : the place 
was formerly a kind of triple colony, as its name 
denotes, from Tyre, Sidon, and Aradus. It acquired 
its chief prominence in the time of the Crusaders, and 
there are around a number of scattered forts of their 
period, though I fear they signalised themselves here 
rather by a genius for destruction than construction, 
as they are said to have burned the largest and most 
valuable collection of manuscripts in the East. We 
walked up to the main town, about a mile and a half 
off, much to the astonishment of our Vice-consul, a 
native of the place, who scarcely seemed able to 
imagine that we could prefer it to riding. We 
found it built with very narrow, picturesque streets, 
and strong-built stone houses, projecting and crene- 
lated, and altogether of what we should consider a 
very mediaeval cast. There were perfect thickets of 
orange and lemon trees in the gardens and suburbs. 
We called at the Vice-consul's, who lives in a house 



220 



BEYROUT. 



which was once the palace of a Pasha ; and I thought 
his reception-room almost the prettiest I had seen 
in the East, with a floor of variegated marble, porce- 
lain walls, and a fountain in the centre. His wife 
only talked Arabic. They express great apprehen- 
sion of some outburst of the Mussulmans against the 
Greek or Maronite Christians, especially if there 
should be any serious reverse of the Ottoman arms. 
All the troops have here, as everywhere else, been 
sent out of the country. I am told that generally 
there has not been much sympathy between the 
Arabs and Turks, but recent events have produced 
it. The women here entirely cover their faces, 
which is certainly far from being the case in Turkey, 
and the fashion extends even to the Christian 
women. We walked up to an old Castle of the 
Count of Toulouse, well-placed above the Kadesha, 
a mountain stream from the Lebanon. We got 
under way again at sunset. 

December 19th. — At ten we arrived at Beyrout. 
I apprehended that I should find La Martine's 
description much over-colored, but I think the 
position very lovely. The weather, which they say 
had been very bad here of late, is now perfect. The 
high points of the Lebanon range look dazzlingly 
white under the clear blue sky, and all the length 



BEYROUT. 



221 



of base, which is singularly picturesque from its many 
indentations and crevices, has a positive golden hue. 
All this, with the long line of calm, bright, purple 
sea, and the green of the many villas and gardens 
with which the slopes above the town are profusely 
studded, is both beautiful and very gay. It has the 
further and higher recommendation of being the only 
place I have yet seen in the Ottoman dominions, 
which exhibits the genuine signs of positive progress. 
Nothing is so difficult to arrive at as trustworthy 
Eastern statistics ; the answers to any such inquiries 
show the widest flights of divergence ; but I was 
told, by persons of apparent competence, that five 
years ago there were not above 12,000 inhabitants, 
and that there are now little short of 50,000. Trade 
and steam-boats have of course mainly effected this 
rapid rise, although the roadstead is by no means 
an eligible one. There seem to be no antiquities of 
interest, though the ancient Berytus was the seat of 
a flourishing school of jurisprudence under the Roman 
Empire. In the absence of our Consul, I found a 
brother of my friend Mr. Calvert acting as a sub- 
stitute. He gave the information, which he had 
just received from Col. Rawlinson at Bagdad, that 
the Persians have declared war against the Turks at 
the urgent solicita ion of Russia. Here is another 



222 



THE LEBANON. 



complication of the Eastern question. I called on 
Dr. Suguet, a French physician of reputation, whom 
I wished to consult on a matter of health. He is 
one of four medical men whom the French keep at 
different stations, to report on the sanitary condition 
of the annexed districts, with a view to the regula- 
tion of their quarantine. Surely this is a wise and 
considerate provision. In his wife's room I found a 
print of my friend Lady Lilford. 

December 2Qth. — I landed early upon a lovely 
morning, and took a walk by myself. I found some 
delightful views, but missed the way to a pine grove 
described by La Martine. I always like to escape a 
guide if possible. I breakfasted at the hotel near 
the landing-place, which appeared to me a very 
pleasant one. We set off in the afternoon, and 
slowly receded under a very slight breeze from the 
beautiful shore. We here took in Abraham Pappi, 
a dragoman, much recommended to me for Eastern 
travel, and who has been waiting for me during 
nearly the whole period of my small-pox and conva- 
lescence. 

December 21 st. —The wind was favourable, but 
very light. I am afraid it was rather a disappoint- 
ment to me, upon going on deck in the morning, to 
find the peaks of Lebanon, and even Mount Carmel 



THE NILE. 



223 



further down to the south, still in view. Some of 
the officers clined with the Captain ; there are some 
agreeable men. As an indication of the warmer 
latitudes we are now in, the grate and chimney were 
removed from the cabin : the shortest day of the 
year seems a singular one for this proceeding. The 
sun set at a quarter before five. Both nights and 
days are very perfect, and we sit out late on deck 
without great-coat or cloak, listening to the very 
good fiddler, and the songs of the crew. I feel sure 
that the stars have a much brighter look. 

December 22nd. — This day seemed precisely like 
the last; and as we were now quite beyond the 
sight of any land, there is nothing to record. I find 
much time for reading ; and Lord John has a very 
well-chosen library. I have chiefly read in Rous- 
seau, Mosheim, and Chalmers, and hope that the last 
two have been at least good counterpoises. 

December 23rd. — -The wind grew still lighter, and 
we did not get in sight of the African shore before 
dark, as we had rather expected. We had the re- 
mainder of the officers at dinner. Many songs from 
the crew at night. 

December 2^th. — The morning found us near the 
shore, but presented the novelty of a thick mist. 
Such was not, I imagine, that robe of the Nile with 



224 



THE NILE. 



which Virgil so sublimely enwraps him (for, in de- 
fiance of many high opinions, I think Virgil often 
could be sublime., as well as almost always perfect), 
when he represents him summoning back the scat- 
tered fleet of Actium into the folds of all his azure 
streams, 

" tota veste vocantem 

Coeruleum in greniium, latebrosaque flumina victos." * 

Mn. vm. 

Can any reader translate latebrosa by a single word ? 
However, soon after we had taken up our Arab 
pilot, the mist gradually melted into a day of the 
most transparent sunshine, and we steamed gently 
through the narrow channels of the harbour. The 
defences which line it appear very complete, and 
there was a look of much activity, from the number 
of ships and the scale of the establishments on shore. 
We are here, under that most absurd and besotted of 
all systems, put into quarantine for five days. The 
Consul, Mr. Green, came off to the ship in his boat, 
and gave us hopes that, under a recent precedent 

* . . . . " Sad Nilus opens wide 
His arms and ample bosom to the tide, 
And spreads his mantle o'er the winding coast, 
In which he wraps his queen, and hides the flying host." 

Dryden. 



ALEXANDRIA. 



225 



with a French steamer, he could get us ftf pratique " 
very speedily ; the attempt however failed. I be- 
lieve we were thereby much wronged ; for, though 
the French ship had touched at Cyprus in the in- 
terval, yet her bill of health, like ours, was from 
Beyrout. It is tantalising to lose precious time; 
but I feel I scarcely ought to repine, with such a 
summer sky over me on Christmas Eve, and with 
the still greater blessing of having found very de- 
lightful accounts from home. 

Christmas Day. — Our service was held on the 
upper deck. At all events I might feel that I was 
celebrating this hallowed anniversary on Christian 
ground. I gave a turkey to each mess of twelve ; 
but I fear the size of Egyptian poultry did not make 
this go far. Not a single case of drunkenness was 
reported, which is, I believe, very rare, and, I am 
sure, very creditable. It was a symptom of our 
present latitude that the ship's company reverted to 
white trowsers to-day. 

December 26th. — Lord John and I met the Consul 
at the Parlatorio, or aperture at the Quarantine 
Station where conversation may be carried on. The 
English engineer of an Egyptian steamer, which has 
been captured and taken into Sebastopol, writes word 
that the Russians feed him very well. Another 

Q 



226 



ALEXANDRIA, 



Egyptian steamer was blown up by its crew at 
Sinope, to avoid capture ; so I suppose the aforesaid 
English engineer must think the less glorious destiny 
by far the pleasanter. There was some little rain in 
the evening/ to prove that there is such a thing in 
Egypt. 

December 27th. — Another day of quarantine, but 
Tiappily the last. We can only look at a beautiful 
yacht steamer just opposite to us, built in the Thames 
for the Pasha. It has been rather a dear purchase 
so far, as it cost about 100,000/., and he has not 
been aboard of her yet. Two steamers went off to- 
day, with still more troops for Constantinople. More 
officers dined with us. One of the sailors afterwards 
repeated a whole play : they say he is son of a scene- 
shifter at the Victoria Theatre. 

December 28th. — Our quarantine having happily 
come to an end, I left the Wasp with Lord John at ten. 
Kind and hospitable as my treatment has been on 
board of all her Majesty's ships, my experience 
would certainly incline me to advise any one who 
wished to travel with speed to rely upon the ordi- 
nary passage steamers. We found the Consul's car- 
riage at the landing-place, and drove through a long 
street in the Turkish or Arab native quarter, with a 
smoother level, however, than in any eastern town I 



ALEXANDRIA. 



227 



have yet seen, and then emerged in the large Frank 
Square, which is really very handsome, and might 
belong to one of the large country-towns of France 
or Germany. In size and shape it rather resembles 
the Hippodrome of Constantinople. We stopped at 
the Hotel de l'Europe, where they have given me 
the best apartment I have yet had during all my 
travels. We went on to the Consul, whose house 
is a very fine one, with a large marble staircase ; he 
pays 250/. a-year for this, and justifies the splendour 
of his abode by the necessity of finding ample space 
for the large staff which the great and increasing 
business of the Consulate requires, and the great 
dearness of even the smallest premises in that part 
of the town where business is transacted. Every- 
thing here has become extremely dear ; and this has 
been a marked consequence of the immense amount 
of exportation of every sort of article since the period 
of our free trade. The increase of trade, popula- 
tion, and building here is most rapid : they compute 
that the inhabitants must amount to 130^000, of 
whom from 25,000 to 30,000 may be Frank. This 
population is said to be double what it was ten years 
ago : at one time it is supposed to have fallen to 
6000. It appears to me that it is the greatest re- 
surrection of a place, once most conspicuous and 

q 2 



228 



ALEXANDRIA. 



afterwards completely obscured, of which I can at 
this moment recall an example. In this instance, it 
would seem to have been primarily due to the 
vigorous though self-engrossed energy of one ruler, 
Mahomed Ali, and to be now sustained by the 
more solid and enduring influences of steamboats and 
the overland route. Egypt generally has materially 
advanced since the abolition of monopoly, and the vir- 
tual establishment of free trade by Lord Ponsonby's 
convention with the Porte ; but of course this very 
advance contracts the Pasha's own power of com- 
peting advantageously with the merchants. Hence 
has probably arisen the recent prohibition to export 
grain ; for so far is it from there being any real 
scarcity here, that the Pasha is supposed to hold the 
consumption of two or three years in his own stores. 
We drove to the Mahmudieh Canal, the capital work 
of Mahomed Ali, the usefulness of which even the 
railway, which the present Viceroy Abbas Pasha 
has happily allowed to be constructed, will not su- 
persede. This railway ought to have been opened 
this month ; but the Russian war, and the rise of 
Lake Mareotis two feet higher than was ever re- 
membered, have delayed the completion. The 
sailors now sent to Constantinople were mainly 
employed on the railroad. The rules of labour seem 



ALEXANDRIA. 



229 



reversed here : the men knit, the women and children 
build the houses, and make the embankments. Our 
engineers brought out tools for their use, but found 
they got on much better by scraping with their 
hands. The dress of the women is singular : the 
hood or yashmak, over the lower half of the face, is 
connected with the part above by a long straight 
brass clasp, showing less of the whole face than at 
Constantinople, more than in Syria. The Frank 
or East end of Alexandria, which corresponds with 
the West end of London, looks almost offensively 
European. We met in our drive a great number of 
carriages and phaetons. There is a vast amount of 
speculation, especially among Greeks and Jews, and 
very expensive habits are indulged in. I believe 
the great proportion of the English merchants, who 
are not very numerous, go on at a steady jog-trot 
for the most part. We went into two gardens, 
which were well-cared for and pretty. One espe- 
cially, belonging to Mr. Larkin, has many of the 
East Indian shrubs and trees, and there was a well- 
grown banyan, palms and bananas in abundance, 
roses in full bloom. There is a very striking kind 
of euphorbea, with the extreme cluster of leaves on 
each branch of the brightest red, while the rest of 
the tree is a vivid green. Egypt more than supplies 

Q 3 



230 



ALEXANDRIA. 



itself with sugar: tlie princes of Mahomed Ali's 
family are the principal cultivators of it ; but the 
Pasha, who is supposed to view all the cognate 
branches with true Moslem jealousy , has this year sent 
away most of the laborers to join the Sultan's army. 
Truly, Prince Mentchikoff's note has much to answer 
for ; and commerce, like Pope's immortal spider, 

" Feels at each thread, and lives along the line." 

Lord John and I dined at the Consul's, and were most 
kindly and hospitably entertained. 

December 29th. — Before breakfast I walked to 
Cleopatra's Needles. The one that is still standing 
is very imposing ; the other, which is British pro- 
perty, I had great difficulty in even discovering, so 
imbedded is it in the sandy soil. In this plight it is 
impossible to discover how far it is unbroken, or how 
perfect the hieroglyphics may be ; but my impression 4 * 
is that it probably would be found nearly as perfect 
as the sister pillar, and that we clearly ought to have 
it. I was in hopes that the Directors of the Crystal 
Palace had decided upon its removal. At eleven I 
went with the Consul's family to a kind of regatta 
or picnic, which had been got up by some of the 
residents here on board the Ariadne, once one of 
her Majesty's frigates, but now used as a coal- 



ALEXANDRIA. 



231 



depot for the Peninsular and Oriental Company : it 
was made smart with flags and boughs, and the Arab 
boatmen had rowing and sailing matches, and we had 
eating and dancing, and even I thought that I might 
once again join in the latter with the Consul's wife, 
being a grandmother herself. Some of the Alex- 
andrine ladies seemed gay and pleasant ; at the same 
time our pleasure was a little long. It had two 
breaks, however. We first went off in a boat to see 
Mahomed Ali's palace, where he used to live much, 
and sit on the balcony which commands a noble 
view of the harbour, and converse with the Frank 
merchants, and see his cotton sailing out. The 
present Pasha seems to exhibit great indifference 
to all matters of civilisation and progress. However, 
he has allowed the railroad to be made, for which 
civilisation and progress are much indebted to him. 
He has a superstitious dread of Alexandria, from its 
having been foretold to him, as it is said, by some 
dervish, that he should die there ; and, accordingly, 
nothing would induce him to spend a night here. 
The palace has large rooms, with handsome French 
furniture ; the inlaid floors, or parquets, are ex- 
tremely pretty. A little later in the day we went 
on board the steam-packet built for the Pasha by 
the Peninsular and Oriental Company (I had better 

Q 4 



232 



ALEXANDRIA. 



henceforward adopt the convenient current abbre- 
viation, and call it the P. and O. Company) : she is 
a model of space and luxury, with a deck 320 feet 
long, and 850 horse-power. It is needless to say 
that, lying in these waters, she has never been seen 
by the Pasha. I never knew greater perfection of 
weather than during these Christmas days, so bright, 
so soft, so cloudless ; yet the Greens hold that the 
sky is incomparably more blue at Athens, w T here 
they had long lived. Such certainly was not my 
shorter experience. The officers of the Wasp came 
to dine w T ith me at the hotel, and I will not deny 
that the French cook gave us a very good repast, 
The Consul's cavass came to attend them beyond the 
walls : I rather fancy that the night before some of 
them had forced the patrol. 

December 30th. — Went with Lord John to Pom- 
pey's Pillar. It was, I believe, in fact erected in 
honour of Diocletian; however, it has a splendid 
shaft of the beautiful granite of the country, so well 
set off by the blue depths of sky above. In our way 
back, we looked at the large substructions of what 
is supposed must have been the famous library ; they 
are at present bared for new buildings, but it is a 
pity that the whole place is not regularly excavated. 
We found, on our return, a large arrival of pas- 



ALEXANDRIA. 



233 



sengers by the French steamer, and the marvellous 
news of Lord Palmerston's resignation. We dined 
at the table-d'hote, which was thickly filled by the 
new comers, English and American. We went 
afterwards to Mr. Peel's, who has a branch here of 
the family establishment at Leghorn ; there was a 
lively variety of whist, singing, charades, and dancing 
The Alexandrians appear extremely sociable; and, 
as far as my superficial survey enables me to judge, 
there is a more active and better moral tone of 
society than in most of the Levant. 

December 31s£. — I had just written the preceding 
entry, when, on proceeding to go down stairs to 
set off by the steamer to Cairo — my luggage having 
been already sent to the port of embarkation — I felt 
so unwell that I sent for Dr. Ogilvie, who took 
twenty ounces of blood from me, besides other dis- 
cipline. I was much relieved, and walked a little in 
the afternoon. 

January 1st. — I definitively resolved to give up 
my tour in Egypt and Syria. It is a considerable 
sacrifice ; but I must not give my family the risk of 
a second anxiety about my health. I will not enter 
into the daily medical details. I should hardly thus 
choose to open the new year ; but I trust that I may 
be enabled ever to feel— 



234 



ALEXANDRIA. 



" Thine are the times and ways, all-ruling Lord ! 
Thy will be done, acknowledged, and adored ! " 

I was well enough to go to the Consul's new-year 
family dinner, though I abstain from all meat and 
wine* 

January 2nd. — The Colombo steamer arrived, and 
I took places for Malta. I part with regret from 
Abraham Pappi, my purposed dragoman ; there 
certainly seems to have been a destiny against our 
being together, The crossing of the passengers to 
and from India, with heaps of children, black nurses, 
&c, gives much animation to this hotel ; and the 
donkey drivers make really fierce contentions in the 
street, so that it is almost perilous to get into the 
melee. I walked to Cleopatra's Needle, and drank 
tea with the Consul. 

January 3rd. — I drove with young Mr. Green to 
Csesar's Camp, where there are remains of a large 
entrenchment, with fragments of walls and towers ; 
this was the scene of a later struggle for the empire 
of the earth between the English and French. It is 
pleasant to think that, if we should be doomed again 
to the blighting curse of war, these two powerful 
flags are likely to wave, not in enmity, but most 
friendly unison. We passed between enclosures of 
fig-trees and sugar-canes, and it is truly a land worth 



THE COLOMBO. 235 

possessing. I have seen Mr. Robert Stephenson, 
who has arrived in his yacht, the graceful Titania, 
to superintend the progress of his railway. He is 
satisfied, on the whole, with the conduct of the Pasha 
throughout the transaction. In the afternoon, with 
strong regret, I turned my back upon the southern 
sun, and embarked on board the P. and O. Company's 
steamer, the Colombo, Captain Brook, for Malta. 

January 4:th — 6th. — I condense the entries of 
our voyage, which was most prosperous, but un- 
eventful. Owing to the immense quantity of cargo 
to be taken in, we did not start till daylight on the 
4th. We had about seventy adult passengers, seven- 
teen children, and two lions ; the children roared a 
great deal, but not the lions. We had a most com- 
petent captain, excellent fare, and a very pleasing 
and intelligent doctor, which was a great object for 
me. I made a point of walking about ten miles a 
day on the long deck, of some 300 feet ; I read for 
the first time, and was much pleased with, Hare's 
" Guesses at Truth," from the ship's library, and we 
had a whist party in the evening. Except one Moor, 
two or three travellers from the Nile, and the couple 
of lions (a present to the Queen), the whole of the 
passengers were from India, and I thought favourable 
specimens of that class of my fellow-subjects. The 



236 



MALTA. 



accounts I heard of the prevalence of dysentery and 
ophthalmia on the Nile this year rather tended to 
reconcile me to my abandonment of that venerable 
stream. On our second day the coast of Africa in 
the domain of Tripoli was for some time in sight. 
Our weather was most enjoyable : the accommoda- 
tions of the ship are very good \ she was rather given 
to pitching, but did her duty admirably, as, though 
the wind was for the most part directly against us, 
we averaged nearly twelve knots an hour, which 
certainly appeared a great contrast to the Wasp. 
The whole run was seventy-six hours. 

January 7th. — At noon we had anchored in the 
Quarantine Harbour of Malta. I was much pleased 
with the approach ; the town rises gay and light- 
some from the smooth blue sea ; the narrow entrance 
and the impending fortifications strongly recalled the 
Havana to me. I had before received the kindest 
invitation from the governor, Sir William Reid, to 
be his guest while here ; and I proceeded on landing 
to his residence, the old palace of the Grand Masters 
of the Knights of St. John. It is full of spacious 
airy chambers and broad high corridors, painted with 
arabesques and battle-pieces, and hung with pic- 
tures of the Grand Masters, beginning in armour, 
and ending in black robes and tie-wigs; I fear, 



MALTA. 



237 



however, that the garb of wisdom was reserved for 
the days of profligacy and degeneracy. I am very 
well lodged ; it is not precisely a good house for 
family accommodation, but must be admirably suited 
to the summer warmth of the climate. At present, I 
confess, I was very glad to find good coal fires, 
though there is a most brilliant sun and sky. In 
the afternoon I walked about the streets and bastions. 
It would not be easy to exhaust the merits of the 
town: it combines qualities not often found in 
unison; for it is eminently clean, and eminently 
picturesque ; eminently English, and eminently 
southern. You read the Saxon names of saddlers 
and shoemakers, and above you look up at the rich 
tracery of latticed oriels : you meet the familiar red 
uniform and the blue-jackets, and you catch occa- 
sional tufts of aloes, and orange-trees loaded with 
fruit. There is great beauty in the vista of each 
right-angled street, ending with the smooth blue 
water either of the full sea, or of one of the two 
many-creeked, long-winding harbours. The great 
feature is the prodigality of decorated stone-work, in 
the soft, warm, creamy stone of the island, lavished 
on house, and church, and barrack, and store-house, 
and gateway ; I traced much of the military archi- 
tecture of Rhodes, which, grave and severe there, 



238 



MALTA. 



has here both swelled into great amplitude and 
blossomed into copious efflorescence : it is much the 
same relation as Henry VII. 's Chapel bears to a bit of 
Durham Cathedral. Rhodes has now one superior 
point of interest; the arms of the Knights in this 
their earlier residence, captured and still possessed 
by their Mahometan conquerors, retain their fresh 
sharp appearance, as if they had been chiselled 
yesterday : at Valletta, the French, during their brief 
possession, made it their special business to erase all 
the armorial bearings of the Knights, and accordingly 
you only see defaced and gaping shields. I fear that, 
in this armilegious wantonness, they were at one time 
partially seconded by the English, but the consi- 
derate care of the present Governor is endeavouring 
gradually to restore these historic reminiscences. 
He justly thinks that it is the policy of our country 
to secure by all legitimate methods the confidence 
and good-will of the native population: it is so 
indeed, both in its lowest as well as its highest aims, 
for, in the case of future attack, the hearty co-opera- 
tion of the inhabitants might stand in the stead of 
several regiments; but he who wishes either to 
gratify or elevate a people, will never desire to sever 
any of its honourable associations with the past. At 
dinner I had the pleasure of again seeing Mr. Marsh, 



MALTA. 



239 



the late American minister at Constantinople, on his 
way thence. Sir William Reid was struck, as every 
one must be, with the fulness of his knowledge, and 
his easy and simple manner of communicating it. 

January 8th. — We went to the new church here, 
built by Queen Adelaide. I am told the estimate 
was for 8000/., which ought to have gone far where 
stone is so cheap and easily worked ; but, with the 
usual fate of architectural results all over the world, 
the actual cost was double, all of which she gene- 
rously defrayed. It is a spacious and handsome 
building, but to the Greek body rather an incon- 
gruous spire is appended. In the afternoon I made 
a circuit of the town and fortifications with the 
Governor, and had a very instructive lecture upon 
military defences. The lines are generally too far 
extended, but much is now doing to make them 
more efficient; to unlearned eyes they exhibit a 
most complete and noble presence. Many monu- 
ments are scattered about to worthies connected 
with the government of the island, and our two 
great services, who have been buried here ; Sir 
Alexander Ball, Lord Hastings, Sir Frederick Pon- 
sonby, Sir Robert Spencer. It is singular, that 
the only undecorated grave is that of Sir Thomas 
Maitland ; I had always thought " King Tom " had 



240 



MALTA. 



filled so large a space in the Mediterranean world. 
The profuse command of stone gives a grandiose air 
to almost everything that is erected. Among the 
older buildings the Hotel of Castile appears to me 
the handsomest. Sir William gives a good report 
both of the industry and general conduct of the 
Maltese ; they seem to behave better at home than 
abroad. The islands have about 120,000 inhabitants, 
of which nearly half are in the capital, and they in- 
crease rapidly. The popular Admiral, Houston 
Stewart, dined with us. Lady Reid is a great 
invalid ; my readers would not guess the only place 
where I have yet met her — on the roof of the house. 

January 9th. — I was taken to a very good club, 
where many newspapers are taken in. Strangers 
are introduced by any member gratuitously for the 
first week of their residence. It was a sirocco wind 
to-day, which makes the pavement very damp, but 
at this time of the year there is scarcely any other 
unpleasant effect. What people talk with horror of 
is the Gregale or north-east, which, when very violent, 
drives ships and batters walls. I went to the great 
church of St. John, which has imposing size and 
gorgeous emblazonment. The pavement is entirely 
composed of the grave-stones of the Knights, with 
inscriptions and devices in the most variegated 



MALTA. 241 

marbles; in the side chapels there is a profusion of 
gold arabesque work, and many costly monuments. 
I thought it rather a painful contrast between the 
splendour of their tombs and the tenuity of their fame. 
Among them there is a simpler and rather touching 
statue of the Count of Beaujolais, who died here in 
1808 j put up by his brother Louis Philippe, not long 
before his own deposition — a still greater fall than 
that of the Grand Masters of St. John. General 
Fergusson now in command here, the Maltese Crown 
Advocate, and one or two Sardinian gentlemen, dined 
with us. The Governor speaks in the highest terms 
of the General. The Crown Advocate seems highly 
intelligent; he confirms what I had heard from 
others, that the religious belief of the bulk of the 
inhabitants is very genuine. The Sardinians are 
anxious to establish intercourse and trade between 
the islands, which at present do not exist. Sardinia 
appears to me the portion of Europe least known or 
spoken about. It would be desirable to diminish the 
exclusiveness of the dependence of Malta upon Sicily. 

January 10th. — I rode with the General and 
his staff to attend the weekly parade or review 
of the garrison ; they have a good piece of ground, 
which has been lately put in order, and serves 
also for cricket, though it has no turf. The ap- 



242 



MALTA. 



pearance of our troops impresses one much after 
Eastern armies. It is satisfactory to hear how little 
complaint of drunkenness there is ; last year I believe 
was the first in which the practice of confining them 
to their barracks during the Carnival was discon- 
tinued, and the result was quite satisfactory. In the 
afternoon I drove with the Governor, first to San 
Antonio, where the Grand Masters had, and now 
consequently the Governors have, their principal 
villa; there is a fine garden, principally of orange- 
trees, very handsomely and pleasantly laid out. Sir 
William Reid, however, does not find this residence 
a sufficient relief during the heats of summer, and 
has restored for himself a roomy kind of tower on 
the heights above, to which we proceeded afterwards. 
It was chiefly built by Yerdala, Grand Master and 
Cardinal, whose history is painted on the walls. I 
thought it a very attractive spot, though the inscrip- 
tion on the outside would not appear so to English 
wants, " On Mount Verdala are dews and showers." 
There is a fine view of the island, capital, and sea ; 
a succession of terraces which expressly invite a 
garden, and a narrow cleft at their feet full of orange- 
trees three hundred years old. We also went to 
Citta Vecchia, or Notabile, the original capital of the 
island, occupying according to primitive custom its 
highest ground: here is the cathedral, which is a 



MALTA. 



243 



really stately building, highly decorated ; among 
other things, it has the crosier brought from Rhodes, 
a picture of St. Paul, after the Greek fashion, with 
the face painted, and the body in silver. What, 
however, I find most striking here is the sumptuous 
architecture of the villages ; it reminds me at every 
turn of my own Sir John Vanbrugh; the whole 
island consists of quarries of stone, churches, arcades, 
balustrades, and orange-trees. There is not such a 
thing as a poor-looking dwelling-house, and scarcely 
a sign of any actual distress, though the livelihood of 
many is extremely scanty : old women spin all day 
long, and the day's work only brings them a penny 
The roads, which are as smooth as those of Bedford- 
shire, present a forcible contrast to the Ottoman isles 
and continents. We are told that when LTsle 
Adam and his brave companions first landed on 
this shore, their spirits sank within them at the 
contrast its dry and barren surface presented to their 
delicious lost Rhodes ; I have qualified myself for 
adjudging that in most respects the tables are now 
turned between the two islands, and they certainly 
afford a very decisive criterion of the results of 
Turkish and Christian dominion. We had pleasant 
society at dinner, Mr. Marsh and his niece, Lord 
and Lady William Compton. 

R 2 



244 



MALTA. 



January Wth. — I went over the dockyard, stores, 
biscuit manufactory, all of which seem on a large 
and efficient scale, combining the architectural 
roominess of the old knights with the appliances of 
modern resource. Some military and naval officers 
dined with us. After they were gone, the Go- 
vernor gave me, most agreeably, some recollections 
of his old Peninsular campaigns ; among others a 
striking account of the evening in the theatre , at 
Bourdeaux, when the Duke of Wellington suddenly 
appeared, with a white cockade in his cocked hat, 
amidst immense plaudits, and the Mayor announced 
from the stage that peace had been concluded. The 
singular modesty of the narrator much enhanced the 
attraction of the narrations. He is one of the best 
and most unpretending of men. Lady Eeid's health 
confines her almost entirely to her own apartment ; 
which is the more to be lamented as, besides appearing 
thoroughly excellent, she has so much originality and 
shrewdness of understanding, as to render her society 
most agreeable. 

January 12th. — This morning was made memor- 
able by my parting with my beared the venerable 
growth of four months. This I reckon the formal 
act of return to Western civilisation. I walked with 
the Governor over the long lines of fortification on 
the other side of the Great Harbour. The works 



MALTA. 



245 



are in the course of being both strengthened and 
condensed. It may give some notion of the whole 
fortified extent to mention that there are fifty-three 
gates into the town. Our dinner included the Bishop 
of Gibraltar, the French Consul, and the Colonel of 
the Malta Regiment of Fencibies. 

January 13 tk. — The roof of the palace is a very 
agreeable place to carry one's book to, with the 
bright winter sun above, and the military band 
playing below. I drove with the Governor to 
St. Julian's College, which comprises an establish- 
ment for training missionaries for the Eastern 
countries, and a school for boys ; there are now about 
twenty-five of the first, and forty-five of the last. 
There is an interesting mixture of all races, Greek, 
Italian, Jewish, Turkish, Arabian. Some of the 
boys have not yet decidedly professed either Protes- 
tantism or Christianity ; all attend family prayers, 
and those that have other places of worship frequent 
them. The institution has now been founded seven 
years; its extrinsic support is mainly derived from 
the evangelical party in England; it naturally 
sustained some injury from its brief connection with 
Dr. Achilli : the post of principal is now vacant, and 
I apprehend that much of the future efficiency of the 
institution will depend upon the manner in which 

E 3 



246 MALTA. 

it is filled up. We dined at General Fergusson's ; 
there was dancing afterwards. The news arrived by 
the French packet of the fleets having definitively 
entered the Black Sea. 

January 14th. — An officer of distinction in the 
Indian cavalry came in at breakfast, in his way from 
Constantinople; he gave very interesting accounts 
of what he had seen there. I walked with the 
Governor, and went over the " Ospizio," or poor- 
house for old people ; it has above 700, who seem 
well-looked after ; they have a pleasant basking- 
place, with seats both for sun and shade. When 
another, now in progress, is completed, it is calcu- 
lated that mendicancy may be altogether prohibited. 
We went also over the civil hospital ; all the buildings 
here are singularly spacious and airy. The hospital 
is much less filled than formerly, owing mainly to the 
establishment of dispensaries in all the island districts, 
which was one of many enlightened improvements 
accomplished by my old friend More O'Ferrall. He 
is thought by some to have bestowed his fostering 
care on other objects not quite so innoxious. We 
also walked through some very pretty garden grounds 
upon the outer ramparts. The Admiral and the 
Captain of a French steamer dined with us. The 
latter is on his way to Constantinople ; he holds the 



MALTA. 



247 



language, which I understand is not confined to him, 
of extreme distaste for the expedition into the Black 
Sea ; it is considered extremely dangerous ; if it was 
to fight the Russians, well and good ; but now r , if 
they meet them, they are only to say " Good day ! 
how do you do?" In the evening we attended a 
meeting of the Malta Literary and Philosophical 
Society, which takes place once a fortnight to hear 
lectures and papers. On this occasion a paper was 
read w^hich had been sent by Mr. Finlay, the Athenian, 
on the origin of the Ottoman Empire. I shortly 
addressed the company afterwards, by request. As 
we returned, the bugle band of the 68th Regiment 
were playing in the full bright, soft, full-moon light 
in front of the palace. The moon is eminently 
becoming to this town, with its jutting balconies and 
traceries. One is more sensible to the charms of 
climate, upon reading the accounts of excessive cold 
which arrived this day from England. 

January 15th. — There was an ordination of one 
priest and two deacons at morning service. I had 
never happened to assist at this rite before, and I 
thought it impressive. The bishop preached a judi- 
cious sermon. Mrs. Greville and her pretty daughters 
dined with us. 

January 16th. — The bishop took me in his carriage 

K 4 



248 



MALTA. 



to Crendi, to see the curious ruins there : there are 
two sets of them, about a quarter of a mile from 
each other ; they are probably those of some Phoeni- 
cian place of worship, consisting of very large stones, 
of which the lower are upright, and what may be 
termed Druidical ; above these are four or five hori- 
zontal layers, a portion of them being as if it were 
tattooed with a small circular pattern ; there is no 
vestige of any roof ; the chambers are of different 
size, with low apertures, and large seats around the 
outer thresholds ; two or three altars seem to be in 
their places, and one of them has a very long flat slab 
of stone, which might have served for human sacrifice ; 
near another, an opening communicates with a second 
chamber, large enough to admit the body of a man, 
which again might have served for oracular responses. 
The bishop makes an excellent cicerone for these old 
monuments ; the Governor and his family joined us, 
and we had a gentle luncheon among the old stones. 
We were nearly on the brink of the southern coast ; 
which is bold and rocky, not unlike the south of the 
Isle of Wight. We also stopped to look at a re- 
markable circular sinking or land-slip, to the depth 
of some 150 feet of rock, the bottom of which has 
been converted into a rough kind of garden, with 
some fine carroba trees. The tradition is, that a 



MALTA 



249 



wicked village was engulphed there. I dined with 
Lord and Lady William Compton; they gave us 
some amusing charades in the evening. 

January 17 th. — Saw the armoury and public 
library j with both of which the palace communicates. 
They are of noble dimensions ; the library has about 
35,000 volumes, chiefly composed of the successive 
books of the Grand Masters ; and has only of late 
received modern accessions. There is a museum 
attached, with a small collection of island antiquities, 
Phoenician, Greek, and Roman. We dined with 
Admiral Stewart, where all is sure of being hospi- 
table and pleasant. We crossed the harbour in a 
closed boat, and there being an approach to a gale, 
some of the ladies found it rather trying. 

January 18 th. — Sirocco wind, and hard rain nearly 
all day. I made the circuit of the town : the waves 
quite dashed above some of the fortresses ; still it 
was not the redoubtable Gregale. The captain of 
another French war-steamer, the Cacique, the 
Military Secretary, and some engineer officers, dined 
with us. 

January 19th. — I drove with the intelligent 
private secretary, and son-in-law of the Governor, 
Lieutenant Hore *, to St. Paul's Bay. It is a pretty 

* Xow commander of the Conflict in the Baltic fleet. 



250 



MALTA. 



rocky little gulf, and the best geographical and 
nautical researches, which have been lately condensed 
in an able volume by Mr. Smith of Jordan Hill, 
near Glasgow, seem abundantly to make out, in 
addition to the unvarying local tradition, that it is 
the actual scene of the shipwreck ; and consequently 
to disprove the counter-claim of Meleda in the 
Adriatic. To such difficulties as have been sug- 
gested — the applications of the word " Adria " to the 
sea, of " barbarous people " to an island successively 
colonised by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, and 
Romans, and the alleged absence of snakes from 
Malta — the answers seem sufficient that it was in 
fact frequently termed the Adrian Sea, that it was 
natural for St. Paul to call barbarous all persons 
not understanding Greek, and that there are still 
serpents, though the more venomous sorts may have 
disappeared during the long inhabitancy of the island. 
We also stopped to see a church at Musta, which 
has been for years in progress, and is remarkable from 
its imposing dimensions, inclosing the old church, 
where service is still held till its successor is finished : 
and still more so from its being built by voluntary 
labour ; almost all the workmen take their turn, and, 
I believe, think themselves repaid by securing a 
certain period of indulgences. There are many 



MALTA. 



251 



promises of these, before images and stations, quite 
recently erected in many quarters ; and figures of 
persons in the flames of purgatory are very frequent. 
We dined at a large party at the Bishop's : I sat by 
the newly ordained priest, a German by birth, who 
had been for seven years a missionary among the 
Jews in Persia and Assyria; he thinks most is to 
be accomplished through the education of their 
children, to which he has not found them much 
averse. I went afterwards to the Opera for the first 
time ; it is rather a pretty little theatre, and the 
number of uniforms adds to its look of gaiety. 
Some officers acted a farce, for the benefit of one of 
the singers. 

January 20th. — I walked to the Corradino 
heights. I find in Malta monuments to two cousins 
in the military and naval services, Sir Frederick 
Ponsonby and Sir Robert Spencer. Quiet dinner at 
the palace. 

January 2\st — Wind and rain. Letters arrived 
from the Admirals at Sinope. I hear the quantity 
of wreck and human bodies still make a very fright- 
ful spectacle. Both the English and French officers 
who have been to Sebastopol, concur in thinking it 
impregnable to a naval attack. Dined with Admiral 
Elliot. 



252 



MALTA. 



January 22nd. — Attended service in the military 
chapel; the soldiers, however, were kept away by the 
weather. I find even these latitudes have their bad 
moments. Evening service at St. Paul's Church. Dr. 
and Mrs. Collins dined with us. He does not think 
the English language gains much in the island. The 
Refugee question is one of much delicacy here, 
though it does not present any difficulty at the 
present moment ; a quiet and prudent humanity is 
the proper temper for dealing with it. Some one 
said not long ago, before some Russian naval officers, 
that we had lately been strengthening Malta ; upon 
which one of them said, " Ah ! then we are just too 
late." They will scarcely be able to revive in 
earnest the Grand-Mastership of the Emperor Paul. 
I have been reading the history of the Order by 
Sutherland ; it produced some very considerable 
men, especially L'Isle Adam, and De la Valette, and 
among those who did much for this island, Vigna- 
court, and Cottonera. 

January 23rd. — Chose a pretty vase at one of 
the stone manufacturer's. Called on Lady Hamilton 
Chichester, who is in deep sorrow for her husband's 
recent loss. She kindly thought I should like to see 
the garden made by Mr. Frere during his island life ; 
it is full of taste and beauty, rising up a hill with a 



MALTA. 



253 



series of balustraded terraces, where he used- to bask 
in the bright sun, look at the blue waters, and 
meditate his translations. There was a small ball in 
the evening at the palace ; the noble ball-room 
looked well, though there were hardly enough to 
fill it. 

January 2\th. — Delicious southern day after the 
late gale. I attended part of a rehearsal of some 
amateur theatricals among the officers of the garrison, 
The Rivals, and The Tipperary Legacy ; tolerably 
promising. I then took a long walk on the Sliena 
road ; there was a fine variety of blue tint in the 
waters within and without the harbour. Some 
Maltese dignitaries dined with us. The Marseilles 
packet arrived, and the Banshee with engineers for 
Constantinople; she is also to carry out some sap- 
pers and miners : this looks as if serious work was 
expected. 

January 25 th. — Walked the circuit of the 
ramparts: listened to the excellent band of the 41st 
on the parade. In the evening went to the theatre 
for the amateur play, which went off w^ell. There 
was especially an excellent Mrs. Malaprop. 

January 2Qth. — I saw Captain Peel, who has just 
arrived in the Diamond ; he very kindly offers me a 
passage to Corfu. Drove with Mrs. Hore to San 



254 



MALTA. 



Antonio, and gathered oranges. Quiet dinner, 
which I always much appreciate. 

January 27th. — Went to the depot of the Bible 
Society, which is well stored with versions in all the 
Levantine languages. Went on board the Diamond ; 
then to Fort Manuel to visit Col. Straubenzie, He 
showed the barrack to me ; it is very pleasing to find 
schools going on both for children and adults. The 
Bishop, the officers of the Diamond, Col. and Mrs. 
Floyd dined with us. I found in her a daughter of 
the late Recorder of Dublin, Shaw, my old parlia- 
mentary opponent, whom I always very much 
respected and liked. 

January 28th. — Called on some officers at the old 
Auberge de Castile, now their quarters : it is a very 
noble building, both without and within. Walked 
to Birchicara. Passed the Archbishop (titular Arch- 
bishop of Rhodes and Bishop of Malta) in his 
carriage. He looks like one of most meek and 
humble spirit, and he is said to be full of piety and 
benevolence. Whether these, by far the most 
essential qualities of a Christian prelate, are accom- 
panied by a high degree of enlightenment, might be 
called into some question by those who have had the 
opportunity of reading an address or rescript, which 
he put forth on the occasion of transferring the chief 



MALTA. 



255 



patronage of Malta from St. Paul to the Virgin. 
Dined with Admiral Stewart, which is always 
agreeable. There were military and naval officers,, 
ladies, and a retired Admiral, Sir Lucius Curtis, 
who gave us some pleasant recollections of Lord 
Nelson. Captain Peel showed intimate acquaintance 
with all his proceedings. He always appeared on 
deck at six in the morning, with his star and white 
small clothes, and no officer came on deck in his ship 
after eight without a cocked hat, which is very 
different to modern habits. The day has felt almost 
piercingly cold, but, on enquiry, the glass was not 
lower than 53° in the shade. 

January 29th. — Military chapel in the morning, 
St, Paul's in the evening ; a very good sermon from 
Mr. Innes, a clergyman staying with the Bishop. 
The Vectis brought Galignanis to the 25th ; all looks 
very warlike. Day still cold. 

January 30th. — To-day restored us to blue and 
brilliant skies. Herbert of Muckruss called on me ; 
he is on his way to Constantinople ; left London 
very warlike. The steamer did not ply at Lyons, 
prevented by icy fog. I went with Mr. and Mrs. 
Hore to see the giant steamer (the Himalaya) enter 
the harbour ; we went on board of her ; superb deck 
and accommodations. She is of 3550 tons ; had bad 



256 



MALTA. 



weather at first, but came from Gibraltar in seventy- 
seven hours, which is 13*10 knots an hour. Dined 
at the Bishop's ; company composed of army, navy, 
and church. Went afterwards to take leave of the 
agreeable Elliots. 

January ?>\sL — After cordial farewells to the 
excellent Reids, I left the hospitable sojourn of the 
palace, and went on board the Diamond. This is 
her first commission; she has twenty-eight guns, 
and is a very comely ship. Great breadth of deck 
in comparison with the Wasp. Captain Peel has 
given me his spacious after-cabin, which I found 
full of comforts and elegancies, though all is in 
comparatively new condition on board. The wind 
would not allow us to leave the harbour ; we went to 
lunch with Admiral Stewart. Shortly before sunset 
Captain Peel resolved to attempt getting out. I 
always shrink from being technical in my naval 
entries, but I believe that beating out of Malta 
harbour against a wind almost directly contrary is 
reckoned something of a feat, especially with a very 
fresh crew : we accomplished it in two tacks ; they 
both looked enough of a shave to make it quite 
exciting, especially wdien our Captain, during the 
last off Fort Eicasoli, shouted three times to the 
Master, " Shall we weather it?" and the answer 



H. M. S. DIAMOND. 



257 



came three times, " No, sir." However, weather it 
we did, and all in the ship seemed relieved and 
proud. The ramparts of the town were lined with 
spectators. We found a considerable swell outside, 
and I must own to not having spent the evening 
pleasurably, notwithstanding the signal provision 
made for my comfort. 

February 1st, 2nd, 3rd. — Through these days 
our voyage has sped most smoothly on, with light 
breezes, smooth seas, summer skies. There is a very 
happy selection of officers, and the Captain appears 
to me full of eminent qualities, not unworthy of his 
name. I remark a disposition to praise the crew 
when they do anything well, which I am sure must 
have a happy effect. Our hours are earlier than I 
have found them elsewhere: we breakfast at eight, 
and dine at half-past three. I keep up my practice 
of listening to the songs of the men during the first 
night watch. 

February 4th. — The day was transcendent, but it 
was so much of a calm that we could only make 
slowly up the channel between Corfu and the 
Albanian coast; the outlines of the hills are very 
fine, with cloud-capped summits, but they have the 
usual grey ruggedness of Greece. The weather, the 
society, and the absence of any great cause of hurry, 

s 



258 



CORFU. 



have prevented any feeling of impatience. During 
this voyage I have read Arthur Stanley's excellent 
book on the Apostolical age, and a history of the 
last naval war, translated from Captain De La 
Graviere ; Captain Peel told me his father had been 
much struck with it, and it is full of high interest 
and of, on the whole, admirable impartiality, which 
is surely much from a French officer describing the 
career of Nelson. All the officers of the ship have 
dined in turn with the Captain during my stay on 
board. When the half-moon went down at the 
stillest midnight, we were within two miles of the 
light-house of Corfu^ but as I was told that it was 
quite uncertain whether we could get in during so 
calm a night, I went down to bed. 

February 5 th. — The morning found us anchored. 
It was a fair scene around ; there were the gay white 
town with the picturesque double-peaked citadel, the 
near green promontories of the island, the smooth 
gleaming channel, and the triple tier of the Albanian 
mountains beyond, the furthest entirely faced with 
snow. There is a smart little flotilla in the road- 
stead, the Wasp, the Modeste, and the Shere-water, 
which now all come under the command of the 
Diamond. I was very glad to see my old commander, 
Lord John Hay. After service on board, I went 



CORFU. 



259 



with Captain Peel to the palace, where I found my 
old friend and colleague Sir Henry Ward, by whom 
I am now most kindly and comfortably lodged. It is 
a most commodious mansion, without so much august 
space as that of Malta, but with more gaiety, mainly 
owing to its charming views, in which the other is 
quite deficient. We went to evening service in the 
garrison chapel, and then took a beautiful walk, 
first over the large esplanade, where a military band 
was playing, and a great number of people walking ; 
then by the shore to the casino of the Lord High 
Commissioner, where, besides the delicious view, 
you find the truly English novelties of a hay-stack 
and cow-sheds. The garden has v very fine orange 
trees, but is not now kept up in its full trim. Old 
olive trees are scattered every where : it has been a 
most abundant crop this year, but the Corfiotes are 
too indolent to pursue the proper methods of culture. 
The weather was very perfect, and the loveliness of 
the place has exceeded my expectation, much as I 
had heard of it ; the only island of those I have seen 
in the Archipelago which comes into any competition 
with it is Mitylene. There is a large and affectionate 
family party at the palace; and family affection is 
what always makes even the stranger feel most at 
home. 

S 2 



260 



CORFU. 



February 6th. — Read newspapers at the garrison 
library ; strangers here, as at Malta, are very liberally 
introduced. In the afternoon I rode with Sir Henry 
and one of his daughters ; it was rather a home-ride, 
to the One-gun battery, and round the fortifications ; 
but go where you will, the views are enchanting. 
We passed over the probable site of the old Phceacian 
city, from which they are continually digging up 
large stones, all worked, though rather roughly ; in 
another place there are a great number of well-made 
stone coffins. It seems that the island has passed 
successively through the names of Drepane, Scheria 
(in Homer), Corcyra (in history), and now Corfu, 
from its peaked fortress (Kopvcprj) ; it is certainly not 
difficult to believe that Alcinous might well have 
had his gardens on this rich soil, and in this delight- 
ful climate. I fear that till recently much of our 
fortification work has been very ill-devised. Captain 
Peel, and some officers of the garrison, dined with 
us. Some of the small flotilla here is to be dis- 
patched to Prevesa, where there is alarm about a 
Greek rising. There have been already some col- 
lisions in the interior, in which the Turks seem to 
have been worsted; a young Karaiskakis, son of a 
celebrated chief in the Revolutionary war, has left the 
Greek service, for appearance's sake at least, and joined 



CORFU. 



261 



some Albanian insurgents. If we have to fight with 
Turks against Greeks, it will be one of the most 
distressing, though perhaps now unavoidable incidents 
of this impending lamentable war. 

February 7th. — Went over the citadel, which 
comprises the two peaks from which the town is 
named ; the view is very fine ; but this, and almost 
every other view I ever saw in my life were eclipsed 
by those we saw in our afternoon ride on the Santa 
Decca road, which turns the mountain that opens 
the southern district of the island ; the snow-capped 
lines of the Acro-Ceraunian hills on the Albanian 
shore, the unruffled seas, which gleamed through four 
sets of ravines, the defined outline of the two-peaked 
citadel, the terraces of olive and vine that climb 
every hill, with scattered alleys of cypress, and tufts 
of orange, make the whole effect most transcendent. 
All this you see from excellent roads, admirably 
engineered. Any one who wishes to condense the 
attractions of southern scenery, and see it all in the 
utmost comfort and luxury, need only come to Corfu. 
Colonel Denny, an old Montreal acquaintance, and 
his wife, dined with us ; we went to a benefit night 
at the Opera. The theatre is about of the same 
calibre as that of Malta ; it was very full, and there 
were a great many soldiers and sailors of all ranks. 

s 3 



262 



CORFU. 



February 8 th. — Went over the fortifications in the 
island of Vido, which fronts Corfu, at about a mile's 
distance. There is a very well arranged military 
prison there ; the average number of prisoners about 
thirty from a garrison of about 3000 ; drunkenness 
the main offence. Great pains seem to be taken at 
the Horse Guards with all that concerns regimental 
prisons and schools; something remains to be done 
in making provision for lodging the wives of soldiers 
allowed to have them, who are six in every hundred ; 
at present for the most part they sleep in the large 
common barrack-rooms with the rest of the men. 
The Senator from Santa Maura, and the Secretary 
of the Senate, dined with us, both intelligent and 
agreeable men, speaking English very well. Greek 
is the official, parliamentary, forensic language of 
the islands, but most of the upper classes are more 
familiar with Italian. I should think the policy of 
having insisted on the adoption of the Greek some- 
what questionable, at least with the existing ten- 
dencies to Hellenism. 

February 9th. — I walked in the morning to the 
ruins of the Temple of Neptune with Mr. Creyke, 
Sir Henry Ward's chaplain, a most agreeable and 
attractive companion, which I am not the less willing 
to admit for his being an East Riding man. The 



CORFU. 



263 



sites explain the Odyssey almost as clearly as Bounar 
Bachi does the Iliad. The temple of the sea-god 
could not have been more fitly placed, upon a grassy 
platform of most elastic turf, on the brow of a 
crag commanding harbour, and channel, and ocean. 
Just in the entrance of the inner harbour, there is a 
picturesque rock, with a small convent perched upon 
it, which by one legend is the transformed pinnace 
of Ulysses. 

7} £e fxdXa ax^ov rjXvSs KOvroiropOQ vrjvg 
'Pififpa diuKOfievr)' rrjg di ffx^ov r]X0' 'EvoaixOcjv^ 
"Oq fiivXaav tOrjKe, kcli ippiZwazv ivepOs* N. 16 L 

Almost the only river in the island is just at the 
proper distance from the probable site of the city 
and palace of the King to justify the Princess jNTau- 
sicaa having had resort to her chariot, and to luncheon, 
when she went with the maidens of the court to wash 
their garments : — 

MrjTtjp d' Iv k'kjty) irids. fievositcs idu)dr)v 

UavTOtrjV, iv c otya W£ef, iv 5' olvov tx €VBV 

'Acrtccp iv aiyd<p m Kovprj 5' i7re£rjcreT aTrr\vr)Q^ Z. 76. 



* " Swift, as a swallow sweeps the liquid way, 
The winged pinnace shot along the sea. 
The God arrests her with a sudden stroke, 
And rests her down an everlasting rock." — Pope. 

j- 44 The Queen, assiduous to her train assigns 

The sumptuous viands, and the flavorous wines, 
s 4 



264 



CORFU. 



In the afternoon I walked to the village of Potamo, 
and some heights above it; it is pleasant during 
rather a long stretch 

" To pluck the pendent orange as it grows." 

Lord John Hay gave dinner to Mr. Creyke and me 
at his lodging in the town, and I thought the evening 
very pleasant indeed. 

February 10th. — Gale and rain, to prove that no 
climate is unalloyed. The garrison library and read- 
ing-room are a great resource. Towards evening Sir 
Henry and I got some turns on the esplanade. 

February Ylth. — Looked over Colonel Denny's 
drawings. Rode with Sir Henry and his daughters 
to Pelica, a picturesque village with a noble pano- 
ramic view. Most scenery, however beautiful, has 
some slight drawback on more familiar acquaintance. 
Here it is the too general predominance of the olive. 
In summer this must be corrected by a greater inter- 
mixture of other tints, and even now is partially so 
by the cypress and orange. We had several officers 
at dinner. I did not accompany the Lord High, as 



Now mounting the gay seat, the silken reins 
Shine in her hand ; along the sounding plains 
Swift fly the mules." — Pope. 



CORFU. 



265 



he is more familiarly termed here, to the theatre to 
witness the representation of an opera by a Zantiot 
amateur, who was covered with nosegays and sweet- 
meats, and carried home afterwards by torch-light on 
the shoulders of the people. We got the Queen's 
speech: Parliament seems to have opened very 
smoothly. 

February \2th. — Went to the garrison chapel in 
the morning and afternoon. Mr. Brine, a Fellow of 
King's College, Cambridge, preached most impres- 
sively. It is pleasant to see the soldiers looking 
attentive and interested. Their mustering and march- 
ing off afterwards with their full band under the 
high rock of the citadel is very picturesque. It ap- 
peared very cold to day, with the glass at 49°. 

February 13th. — There was real, visible, palpable 
snow this morning falling in the streets of Corfu. 
The afternoon was fine, though conscious of the 
recent chill. I walked with the Lord High to the 
One-gun battery: there are few such walks within 
the command of any town. Dined with the mess of 
the 71st; the last time I had done so was at Mon- 
treal. We were most hospitably entertained, the 
Lord High, the General, in all twenty-six. The 
news brought by the eastern and southern steamers 
during dinner were rather exciting : the allied fleet 



266 



coEru. 



is in the Bosphorus, the Russian in Sebastopol, four 
allied steamers cruising outside of it; Epirus has 
risen, Arta capitulated ; the Pasha of Yanina, cha- 
racteristically of the Turkish empire, has got the 
paralysis* 

February l^th. — Captain Peel went off in the 
Diamond to Prevesa, with the intent of holding it 
against all attack, till the pleasure of our government 
should be known concerning this somewhat new 
complication of affairs. I rode with Lord John Hay 
and Mr. Creyke to the pass of Pantaleone, which 
commands a very striking view of the northern dis- 
tricts and coasts of the island. It must have been a 
ride altogether of about thirty-four miles. Our only 
drawback was, that it was a day without colour ; but 
fine scenery, excellent roads, good horses, and most 
genial companions made it a very pleasant expedition. 
I dined with the mess of the 57th regiment, which is 
celebrated for the goodness of their cook. Their fine 
commanding officer, Colonel Goldie, has just returned 
from an interesting excursion across the country to 
Constantinople and Schumla. He is disposed to 
think well of Omer Pasha, admires the Turkish 
barracks, hospitals, and the materiel of the soldiers ; 
but thinks their officers, arms, and discipline very 
indifferent. In Rumelia and Albania the Mussulmen 



COEFU. 



267 



and Christians appeared in mutual apprehension of 
each other. I played two rubbers of whist. 

February 1 5th. — More snow on the sides of Mount 
Salvador. I had a long and interesting visit from 
Mr. Brine, the chaplain. He has been in the Arabian 
desert, and his accounts have great freshness and 
originality. It transpired at luncheon, that at a large 
official dinner to be given by Sir Henry Ward this 
evenings my health would be proposed in Italian ; so 
I tried to string a few sentences together in the same 
language, and got Miss Ward to revise the grammar. 
We were above thirty — President, Archbishop, Se- 
nators, Judges, and other office bearers. It was a 
very handsome entertainment in the large suite of 
rooms here. Sir Henry opened the proceedings by 
a very fluent Italian speech in giving the Queen's 
health, and there were several others with a good 
deal of loyalty, and some Hellenism. My little reply, 
which I am inclined to think was about the most 
hardy feat of my public life, seemed to take very 
well. 

February 16 th. — Went to see Mr. Wodehouse's 
collection of antiquities and gems. It is a very 
copious one, especially in all that pertains to the 
Ionian Islands. Many pretty glass vases, gold orna- 
ments, and one beautiful cameo, have been found in 



268 



CORFU. 



the tombs here. The coins are most numerous. He 
told me one thing which illustrates the indolence 
that is said especially to characterise the Corfiotes : 
when he bought a place in the country here, he found 
a garden in very good order., and wished to keep on 
the gardener. He asked what his wages were — four 
dollars a month ; he thought that really not enough, 
and said he would give him eight. Very soon after- 
wards the man said he must leave him : he thought 
he did not perhaps like to serve a heretic master, and 
let him go. Subsequently he used to observe that 
he came as a day labourer, and one day he asked him 
why he had not stayed with him. It turned out that 
he thought, if his pay was doubled, his work might 
be doubled too ; and he said his former wages were 
enough to buy him olives, bread, and tobacco, which 
was enough for him if he could lie under a tree when 
he liked. I find that the inhabitants of the other 
islands, who have a more sterile soil to deal with, are 
reckoned far more industrious. In the afternoon I 
went over the barracks and fortifications at Fort 
Neuf with Colonel Goldie ; I thought the regimental 
schools very satisfactory. This fortification is, I 
believe, very strong in itself ; but it is sadly bearded 
by the dismantled fort Abraham, which has been 
neither removed nor repaired. Dined with General 



CORFU. 



269 



Conyers,— a large party ; he lives, as Commander of 
the Forces, in the old Venetian house of the ancient 
Proveditore in the citadel. 

February 17 th. — Breakfasted on board Captain 
Stuart's ship, the Modeste ; it is in the most thorough 
spick and span order of any I have seen in our 
service, and looks as if it had been turned out of 
Gillow's yesterday. The men went through their gun 
exercise very well. The day was once more one of 
the fine transparent ones I found on my first arrival, 
and I rode with the Lord High to the Garuna Pass ; 
there is one transcendent point where you command 
the eastern and western shores and seas at once. 
After dinner we went to a ball at the President of 
the Senate's, Count Romar ; he has a tolerably good 
house. After staying about half an hour, I went 
with Lord John Hay on board the Wasp, having 
accepted his kind offer of a day's trip to Prevesa, 
where he was to communicate with Captain Peel. 
We screwed off by a fine half-moon. It felt strange 
to find myself again in the old quarters. 

February 18 th. — At ten in the morning we ar- 
rived off Santa Maura; the outline is good: the 
hills seemed more covered with snow than at Corfu ; 
we rowed across to Prevesa, over the waters which 
had borne the fleets of Actium. We found Captain 



270 



NICOPOLIS. 



Peel with the Consul, Mr. Saunders, who has for 
eighteen years most efficiently exercised his functions 
over Albania, and is extremely respected both by 
Christian and Moslem. His ladies I fear must find 
it very unbroken solitude ; it appeared to me only a 
few degrees better than Alexandretta. The Consul 
mounted me and Mr. Gilpin, the gentlemanlike 
Purser of the Wasp, and we rode through some 
very wet olive groves to the ruins of Nicopolis, the 
city built by Augustus to commemorate the victory 
which gave him the undisputed mastery of the 
world. They are extensive, and have an imposing 
appearance on a most solitary plain ; the walls make 
a large circuit; there are two theatres, and baths 
very distinctly marked ; brick is the general material. 
On Grecian soil I always find it impossible to feel 
any deep interest about Roman remains ; they seem 
merely to belong to an upstart race; however, it 
would be hard to question their right to the soil 
within the shaft-shot of the Actian Apollo. The 
snowy chains around are very fine, but I think at 
any season they must have a far sterner look than 
the mountain lines of Asia Minor and Caramania. 
The Consul's daughters were sketching here not 
very long ago, and they ascertained since that there 
were at the time some robbers in a ruined vault 



PEEVES A. 



271 



beneath^ engaged in actual consultation whether they 
should carry them off or not. At this moment all 
such gentry have probably joined some of the 
insurgent bands which are said to be mustering fast 
in Epirus. The Turks have retained possession of 
Arta, which was closely menaced a few days ago, 
and the neighbourhood of English ships will probably 
quite secure Prevesa. However warmly one may be 
bound to sympathise with the general quarrel of one's 
country, yet it would be a heavy demand upon one 
to wish in favour of Turks and against Greeks 
within sight of the cliffs of Parga, and the summit of 
Suli. We set off again at sunset, and had a smooth 
passage back to Corfu. 

February 19 th. — We anchored soon after four, 
but we were not allowed to land till nine by that 
most ridiculous of all systems, the quarantine. 
I attended the services at the garrison chapel, and 
again had pleasure in hearing Mr. Brine. At dinner 
we had the French Consul, M. Limperani, who has 
an agreeable flow of talk, and Captain Lefevre of 
the French war-steamer Promethee, who is on 
his way to Prevesa, much on the same sort of quest 
as the Diamond. He is last from Athens, and gives 
an account of the excitement there as being very 
intense, and somewhat absurd ; the students, quite 



272 



COEFU. 



boys many of them, are almost all gone from the Uni- 
versity, with the most medley and hap-hazard kinds 
of arms ; the King's aide-de-camp, General Tzavellas, 
and of all functionaries, in a strictly neutral govern- 
ment, the Attorney-General (Procureur du Koi), 
have joined the insurgents. On the anniversary of 
the King's birthday, the air of " Trema, Byzantio " 
from Belisario was sung from the stage. 

February 20th. — A strong gale all day with great 
rain, which one repined at less, as there was a great 
affluence of papers from East and West. The 
growing excitement among the islands imposes both 
trouble and anxiety upon the Lord High. It would 
be quite out of my track to enter upon the Septinsular 
politics, but I feel bound to state that Sir Henry 
appears to me to exercise his functions with much 
general ability and conscientiousness in circumstances 
not a little difficult, for he found bequeathed to him 
a constitution that cannot be got to work, and at this 
moment the policy of England, and indeed of Europe, 
is at direct variance with the inevitable sympathies 
of the whole Greek race. The legislature is to meet 
on the 1st of March, and it seems very doubtful 
whether, in the prevailing Hellenism of the moment, 
it will be found possible to continue their sittings. 
The population of Corfu itself, which is the least 



CORFU. 



273 



industrious, is thought also to be the least impression- 
able of the islanders, not to mention the immediate 
control of a larger garrison. At dinner we had Sir 
James Reid, one of the four Judges of the Highest 
Court of Law, of whom two are English and two 
Greek, and some other naval and military officers, 
The prospect of employment in the probable war 
naturally excites much interest. 

February 2\sL — Walked with the Lord High to 
the One-gun battery — the ground quite white with a 
recent hail-storm. Quiet family dinner, 

February 22nd. — Rode with them. Looked at 
the masks which have begun to assemble in the es- 
planade for the Carnival : very flat. Dined again at 
the excellent mess of the 57th, and went to a theatre 
afterwards, built and kept up by the common sol- 
diers of the regiment. They acted a farce called the 
" Swiss Swains " by themselves, the women's parts 
mostly from the band, and the continuation of " Box 
and Cox," with the assistance of two of their officers; 
and both were very creditably done, and most 
amusing. There is a large gallery for the soldiers, 
a sort of balcon for the officers, ladies, and guests, 
and a pit for sailors and others. They tell me that 
they have nearly paid off the original expenditure, 
and that the dramatis personce are strictly confined to 

T 



274 



CORFU. 



soldiers of good conduct. Surely this is all pleasing, 
and must be admitted by every one to be better than 
spirit-shops and other haunts. 

February 23rd. — Walked with Mr. Creyke to Sir 
John Fraser's, and then we wandered further about 
that delicious promontory which divides the outer 
and inner waters of Corfu. The weather had com- 
pletely recovered itself, and poured its full glories on 
the blue seas, and sparkling bays, and soft acclivities, 
and the sward at our feet, all freshened and daisied by 
the recent rains. We found ourselves agreeing, that 
in these Greek landscapes the same exquisite scale 
of harmony and proportion, which gave such com- 
pleteness to the literary composition, the architecture, 
and the art of the ancient race, seems still to mould 
and modulate every shape and hue of their natural 
scenery. In the afternoon I rode with Sir Henry to 
the country place of his Attorney-General, Signor 
Circumelli : he is one of the very few who reside 
upon, and take pains with, their property : it is very 
prettily situated; and its modest precincts comprise, 
besides corn and orchard, the manufacture of oil, 
wine and silk. He complains much of the number 
of holidays which the Greek workmen insist on ob- 
serving. The interior of the house has a very 
civilised look ; and both he and his wife appear re- 



CHAONIA. 



275 



fined and distinguished persons. Some officers at 
dinner. 

February 24:th. — At half-past six I went with the 
Lord High; his two aides-de-camp, and three other 
officers, on board the Ionia steamer; they were all 
bound for a day's shooting in Epirus or Chaonia. 
I had made the unsportsmanlike condition, that I was 
not to be compelled to shoot, and went to look about 
me. The day was extremely fine, though the air 
came down a little freshly from the snowy hills as 
we sat at our breakfast on deck. We landed at La 
Quaranta, to the northward of the Bay of Butrinto. 
Virgil has given our course, — 

" Protenus aerias Phgeacurn abscondimus arces, 
Littoraque Epiri legimus, portuque subimus 
Chaonio, et celsam Buthroti ascendimus urbem." 

JEn. m. 290 * 

and then comes the passage, distinguished by even 
more than the usual Virgilian grace and delicacy, of 
the interview between ^Eneas and Andromache. 
We began by climbing a very steep hill, from the 



* " The sight of high Pheeacia soon we lost, 
And skimm'd along Epirus' rocky coast. 
Then to Chaonia' s port our course we bend, 
And, landed, to Buthrotus' heights ascend." 

Dryden, 

T 2 



276 



CIIAOXXA. 



top of which there was as lovely a view as one might 
wish to see of channel, and coast, and islands, all in 
full gleam and sparkle. We descended inland into a 
well-watered basin of land, the other side of which 
was bounded by snow-covered ridges: one of the 
first objects we saw was a large eagle on full-stretched 
wings, cleaving the liquid blue just under the Ki~ 
mara, or old Acro-Ceraunian summits. The ren- 
dezvous with the horses and dogs had gone wrong, 
as I have invariably found all appointments do upon 
Turkish territory : so we had to walk some eight 
miles into the interior, fording two or three rivers in 
the way : I was at first chary of my Rhodian goat- 
skin boots, and betook myself to the shoulders of 
Giorgio, the master of the Lord High's yacht — a 
very stout, pleasant Italian, — but we stuck in some 
soft place, and I went on afterwards with the reckless- 
ness which belongs to the once-wetted. The shooting-- 
escort met us in the middle of the day ; and while the 
rest went into the coverts, I mounted on the Aga's 
horse, and with him, Giorgio, and four or five Alba- 
nian attendants, rode on to the town of Delvino : it 
is excessively picturesque, with a craggy citadel, and 
a torrent, and an old Venetian bridge, and streets 
which are, in fact, a series of precipices and ravines, 
and the snow-line on the mountains immediately 



CORFU. 



277 



above, and orange and cypress trees on their spurs. 
We called on the Bey or Governor, and I felt myself 
at home again on the broad couch in the tumble-down 
room, with the accustomed sherbet, coffee, and pipes. 
They had heard of no disturbances nearer than Arta. 
It grew dark enough before we got back to the 
shore, and I had occasion to wonder at my horse's 
sureness of tread on a road very like a staircase, 
composed of large stones put in edgeways. I found 
the sportsmen had got back to the steamer nearly 
an hour before me, after finding a sufficient number 
of woodcocks and snipes, but no wild boar. We 
dressed, had another excellent meal (but this time in 
the cabin), and landed again at Corfu soon after ten. 
Nevertheless, I did yet accompany Sir Henry to a 
ball given by the gay 57th Regiment, and which was 
a very well-managed one : and having thus nearly 
filled up twenty hours, I thought the day a very fair 
specimen of " Life in Corfu." 

February 25th. — It w T as cold again, and we ap- 
plauded ourselves that we were not under the Aero- 
Ceraunian snows. Walked w x ith Lord John Hay 
and Creyke. 

February 26th. — Attended the garrison services. 
Mr. Brine preached at both with the greatest effect 
and impressiveness. He has the rare quality of 

T 3 



278 



CORFU. 



suggesting more than he says. In the afternoon 
some of the Carnival folk, in Albanian dresses, per- 
formed a Romaic dance in front of the palace : there 
was an ingenious twisting and untwisting of coloured 
threads in a pattern effected by the movements of the 
dance. The sea-captains dined. There was a great 
arrival of packets, papers, and letters. The war spirit 
seems very much up in England. Much anxiety of 
course among the garrison here for active service, 

" Tendebantque maims ripse ulterioris amore." * 

The accounts from Prevesa detail great oppression 
and outrage on the part of the Turks and Arnaouts 
upon the Christian population. 

February 21th. — I took leave of my friends, after 
having thoroughly enjoyed my residence at Corfu, in 
a luxurious house, amidst delicious scenery, and with 
some of the most agreeable companionship I have 
known for a very long time. I cannot resist taking 
another run down to Athens, and I find myself again 
in old quarters on board the Austrian Lloyd's steamer 
Imperatrice. We set off about two : beautiful Corfu 
slowly receded from sight. The evening was cold 
and dark, and a little rough. I went on deck before 



* " They pray'd and panted for th' opposing shore." 



I. E. P. IMPEPvATRICE. 



279 



going to bed, and saw we were close under some 
high ground I asked what it was : w Ithaca." 

February 28th. — Bright day, but not warm. In 
the morning, the outlines of Cephalonia and the 
H woody Zacynthus " were still visible, all the more 
for their snows. I did not find the Austrian captain 
or his subordinates able to throw much light on the 
classical geography. When I asked the name of any 
mountain or headland on the coast of Elis, or Mes- 
senia, I got one uniform answer : 66 Morea, tutto e 
Morea." However, they were able to point out the 
narrow entrance of the bay of 2s avarino. We have 
on board a Wallachian general, proscribed by the 
Russians in 1848, and now returning with a son, and 
aide-de-camp, and doctor, to offer his services against 
them : he looks gentlemanlike, and is rather sea-sick. 
There is a Greek priest who ought to be so, as he 
eats without cessation. The regular solid breakfast is 
not till ten ; some of us have little coffee-pots brought 
to us when we first appear, which hold about a cup* 
ful ; after I had finished my cup, the Greek father 
emptied the dregs of my pot, and carried off the 
fragments of my dry toast. Daylight left us with 
Cape Matapan ; we touched afterwards at Cerigo — 
soft Cythera's isle, — I believe about the bleakest spot 

T 4 



280 



ATHENS. 



in Europe, and a sort of Botany Bay to the Ionian 
Islands. 

March 1st. — I have seldom felt more piercing cold 
than the Tramontana, or north-wind, which we met 
this morning; and the priest was at last sick. It 
appeared, moreover, that his fraternity had paid his 
passage-money without including his meals, which he 
clearly had not spared ; and it ended in our having 
to make up a subscription for these. Even Egina's 
rock and Idra's isle could hardly keep one on deck. 
However, the sun gleamed brightly over Athens ; 
Hymettus, Parnes, and Pentelicus were all topped 
with snow. We landed at the Pirasus between three 
and four: we found two French and one English 
small war-steamers there. I drove up to my delightful 
quarters at Mr. Wyse's, w T here I was welcomed with 
already well-proved warmth and kindness. I collect 
that the effervescence lately exhibited here has consi- 
derably cooled down, partly from the unusual severity 
of the weather which the boy-students and volunteers 
encountered, partly from the increasing conviction 
how little real help Greece can get from Russia, and 
how entirely she is in the hands of the maritime 
powers. Probably I shall find Athens the best place 
to dis-Hellenise me. I hear that all the soberer 
portion of the inhabitants, especially the commercial 



ATHENS. 



281 



interest, with its three hundred vessels in the 
Turkish trade, are most anxious that there should 
be no misunderstanding with Turkey, at least for 
the present. General Church came in the evening ; 
he has been most properly restored to all his military 
honours and precedence since my last visit. Though 
this was most justly due to his Hellenic services, it 
is also probably a symptom of the increased need 
which is felt of a good understanding with England. 

March 2nd. — Weather cold and boisterous. What 
say you, Euripides and Lord Byron ? I called on 
Mr. Hill ; found with him Mr. Marshall, a lawyer of 
note, whom I had known at New York. I see the 
American sympathies run with the insurgent Greeks. 
Mr. Hill tells me that the best-educated Greeks come 
from Thessaly and Epirus. Walked to the fountain 
of Callirhoe, which has now a real gush of water. 
The French Minister dined with us, and the Aus- 
trian and his wife came in the evening ; she is a 
very pleasing Englishwoman. There is intense di- 
plomatic harmony at present, which is rather a new 
feature in Greece. 

March 3rd. — Went to Mr. Hill's church for Lent 
sendee. Called on General Church; found Turks 
and Greeks with him smoking. There is much that is 
chivalrous, and, what is still better, straightforward, 



282 



ATHENS. 



in his whole character and career. Saw Mr. Suter, 
our Vice-Consul at Missolonghi, who has just been 
to the frontier ; he has not a high opinion of the re- 
sources or constancy of the insurgents, Saw also 
Admiral Canaris with Mr. Wyse : he was the com- 
mander who, in the revolutionary war, in one of his 
brulots, or fire-boats, blew up the ship where the 
Turkish admiral and all his captains were assembled 
for a council of war. He is a sturdy simple-looking 
old man ; oXcos aypd/jL/jLaros, " utterly unlettered," as 
he described himself to Mr. Wyse when he found him 
as Prime Minister on his first arrival here. Walked 
with Mr. Wyse to the site of the theatre of Bacchus. 
It is rather perverse that, in the affluence of waste 
ground all over the East, small crops of wheat should 
be gradually obliterating the traces of the spectators' 
seats in what was once the foremost theatre of the 
world. There were fine lights about the immortal 
hill, but the sky was still dim and very chill. Gene- 
ral Church in the evening. 

March 4th. — Set for a drawing to M. Rietschel, a 
German artist, who has had great success here in 
that line. I feel almost sorry not to have been at 
the Opera last night : it was professedly for the 
benefit of the poor; but I believe there is little 
doubt that the proceeds will go to the insurgents on 



ATHENS. 



283 



the frontier. They gave the Lombardi ; and when 
the banners of the crusaders appeared, they were all 
inscribed with the Russian cross of St. Andrew, which 
drew down immense plaudits. In the course of the 
piece, some Turks or Saracens appear, and they 
were so much hissed that they walked off the stage ; 
but, subsequently, one actor threw down his turban 
and trampled upon it, which was of course vocife- 
rously cheered. What made all this more significant 
was, that the King and Queen sat through it, and 
remained to the end ; though, after a similar demon- 
stration not long ago, upon the remonstrance of the 
French and English Ministers, the Government had 
protested entire ignorance, and had affected to dismiss 
M. Tisamenos, the head of the police, who thereupon 
went off to the frontier. All this is neither prudent 
nor decent. I walked with Mr. Wyse : w r e threaded 
the Ilyssus for some time, and really occasionally had 
some difficulty in stepping over it, which will surprise 
those who are acquainted with Athenian geography. 
We stopped at the stadium of Herodes Atticus, which, 
like his theatre, was a splendid work for the expen- 
diture of an individual : it must formerly have looked 
very imposing with its rows of seats made of Pen- 
telic marble, of which the fragments now He all 
about. We came back over the site of the Lyceum, 



284 



ATHENS. 



now partly occupied by the Queen's kitchen-garden, 
and the villa of the Duchess of Placentia. At half- 
past six Mr. "Wyse took me to be presented at the 
Palace ; we w^re both in uniform : the reception 
takes place just before the Royal dinner. Their 
Hellenic Majesties were extremely gracious. The 
King wears the Greek dress ; the Queen is very well 
dressed, but like the rest of Europe. She has much 
graciousness and intelligence of manner. She seemed 
to know all the places to which we had made ex- 
cursions when I was last here. She took occasion 
to remark that she had never seen Constantinople. 
Some English military officers dined with Mr. Wyse, 
among others Captain Austen, of the Indian Horse 
Artillery, who has spent some time with the Turkish 
army on the Danube, and gives an infinitely more 
favourable account of it than the Indian officers I 
had met at Malta. He considers the Turkish 
soldier, in respect of sobriety, absence of crime, 
bravery, and unparalleled docility, as supplying better 
material for the formation of an army than any other 
men in the world. The cavalry is very bad, the 
irregular troops worse than useless, the officers not 
good ; still he would not recommend the employment 
of English or French officers at present : they would 
be intent on minutiae of discipline and appearance 



ATHENS. 



285 



about which they could not be satisfied, and mutual 
discontent would be the consequence. 

March 5 th. — Services at Mr. Hill's church. 
Captain Heath of the Niger, and Prince Leiningen, 
who is w^ith him on a short cruise, came up to 
Mr. Wyse's. The Prince was introduced to their 
Hellenic Majesties. The naval officers dined with 
us ; the representatives of all the four powers came 
in the evening ; all are much shocked with the 
proceedings of the Court, and a sympathy exists 
between them wholly new in the diplomatic records 
of Athens. The King and Queen have been ex- 
tremely civil to General Church, which is another 
very novel and a redeeming point. He hopes that 
he has been of some use by his representations to 
them. 

March 6th. — To-day was a kind of feast-day 
here, though it is, in fact, the first of the fast-days of 
the Greek Lent ; the whole population make a prac- 
tice of going out to the columns of Jupiter Olym- 
pius, and there eating their first vegetable meal. It 
happened also to be the first day of real Athenian 
sky, a sort of birth of spring, and the scene was very 
pretty and remarkable ; the rich tawny glow of the 
pillars, the brilliant blue of the sky above and 
between them, the fresh green of the young corn, 



286 



ATHENS. 



the gleaming white of the snow still retained on 
the mountains, and the variety of costume and 
uniform below, supplied all that could be desired 
in richness and variety of tint. Many groups had 
their meals on tables on the sward itself ; some were 
dancing the Romaic dance, which has some grace- 
fulness, though not much variety. The King and 
Queen came with their usual cavalcade on horse- 
back ; I believe there had been an expectation of 
some special demonstration of Hellenic greeting, 
but this was certainly not very marked: at the 
same time they were received with considerable 
acclamation and eagerness ; they repeatedly threaded 
the crowd, the Queen always leading, and evidently 
in a state of much excitement, as if she only wanted 
a touch-and-go to be off to the frontier. Captain 
Heath and Prince Leiningen were with us, and 
set "off afterwards on their return to the Bos- 
phorus; they are two excellent specimens of an 
English captain and a midshipman Prince. In my 
way back I stopped at the cemetery for foreigners, 
and for all not of the Greek Church. There is gene- 
rally something very touching in these tombs, 
erected principally for young men on their travels 
far away from home and friends, who have died of 
fever, from about the ages of eighteen to twenty- 



ATHENS. 



287 



four : they came here to collect all the inspirations 
of the old world, and have passed on to that which 
will supersede all things old and new. 

March 7 th. — Relapse to cloud and chill. I drove 
with the ladies to Mr. Bracebridge's villa on the 
spurs of Hymettus, and I walked back. Nothing 
can make the outline of the Acropolis look amiss. 
Mr. "Wyse well compares the stern beauty and utter 
want of superfluity in the scenery of Athens to the 
character of their old tragedy. Passing from Corfu 
to Athens is like a transition from " Comus " to 
" Samson Agonistes," or from " Romeo and J uliet " 
to the " Antigone." Mr. Maxwell, Mr. Hill, and 
General Church dined with us. I perceived still 
stronger symptoms of the American inclination to 
Greece, which is not unnatural, and even to Russia, 
which surely is so, and yet does not entirely sur- 
prise me. 

March 8 th. — Bitter cold. Service at Mr. Hill's. 
Went with Mr. Wyse to the University. The 
building does decided credit to modern Athens. 
The marble Ionic pillars, with the blue colouring 
and gilding about their capitals, all from undoubted 
authority, have a very gay effect. There is a library 
of about 60,000 volumes, not well-arranged or cata- 
logued yet, but which affords an excellent nucleus 



288 



ATHENS, 



for a fine collection : it must already be the largest 
east of Vienna and west of New York. About 600 
students attend the lectures. The building and 
library have all been produced by private contri- 
bution. We walked to the junction of the Ilyssus 
with its tributary the Eridanus ; to the monument 
of Lysicrates, which is supposed to be nearly the 
earliest specimen of the Corinthian order ; and to the 
temple of Theseus. 

March 9th. — Rode with the Wyses', and one or 
two more, by some old aqueducts built by Hadrian, 
who seems to have exceeded all Roman Emperors 
in travelling and building. It was a real Athenian 
day, and after our ride I ran up to see one of the 
first clear sunsets from the Acropolis. It is a 
splendid thing to stand on the highest step of the 
Propylaea, and look at Lord Byron's view. Mr. 
Wyse dined out, at a dinner given to the new 
Austrian Minister, Baron Leikam ; and his pleasing 
English wife dined with us. 

March 10th. — In my way to Mr. Hill's service, I 
looked in at a new Russian church, of which the roof 
is well painted by a German artist, with Hebrew 
kings and prophets on a gold ground. I drove with 
the ladies to the Queen's farm, which has become 
of great extent, and is laid out and cultivated with 



ATHENS. 



289 



much cost and care : there is a large good cow-house, 
poultry-yard, dairy, vineyard, orchard, olives, and 
corn-land ; a central building with a tower, and a 
room prettily painted, and fitted up medievally. 
The heads of the departments are German ; it must 
employ a good many people. Altogether the whole 
establishment does the Queen great credit, and is of 
excellent example in the direction most needed for 
the country. I walked back and deviated to a more 
storied spot, the village of Colonus, the actual bowers 
of the Academy, the very spot where* the fair- 
clustered narcissus and the golden-rayed crocus 
blossom over the unslumbering rills that feed the 
currents of the Cephisus. Guarded as this site is by 
unparalleled recollections, I am not sure that the im- 
mediate sense of pleasure is not awakened there by 
finding on the dry and thirsty soil of Attica, a faint 
reproduction of the nursery-grounds at Fulham. 
General Church came in the evening ; he had held a 
levee this morning of all the officers of the Greek 
army now at Athens, on the occasion of his being 
raised to the highest grade in it. 

March Wth. — Walked again to Colonus, and the 
two hills, one of which has a chapel, the other a 
monument to Mtiller, the historian of the Dorians ; 

* (Ed. Col. 668. 
U 



290 



ATHENS. 



back under the Acropolis. There is a real burst of 
golden summer, which, as I have been told, comes 
here with a sudden leap. In the afternoon, I rode 
with Mr. and Miss Wyse, and the pleasant attaches, 
Messrs. Manly and Locock, to a certain marble old 
lion, in the middle of a plain about nine miles off, 
between Pentelicus and Hymettus : it is said here to 
commemorate some victory about the time of Pisis- 
tratus; it is rather a plaintive-looking beast. The 
mountains of Euboea looked fine in their snow-garb, 
under the blue sky. The whole neighbourhood of 
Athens makes excellent riding ground, and our party 
does not spare the speed of their horses. At half- 
past seven, I went to dine at the Palace : we were 
about thirty ; General Church, General Kalergi, (I 
believe with both it was the first time for many 
years,) three ladies of the household, and the 
remainder for the most part were Greek deputies. I 
sat between the Queen and the Grand Mistress. The 
Queen's conversation is full of liveliness and intelli- 
gence, and it requires some self-control not to become 
one of her partisans. There is a circle both before 
and after dinner. My Lord Lieutenant's uniform led 
to many enquiries from the King about our militia. 
He decidedly gives the impression of a well-meaning 
man. His silver Greek dress is, I think, on the whole, 



ATHENS. 



291 



the most comely costume I know. The rooms and 
meal were handsome. Their civil list (of 40,000/. a 
year, I believe) is large considering the general 
revenue of the country. 

March \2th. — Went to morning church. The 
muster at the band, with the royal cavalcade, looked 
exceedingly well in the brilliant weather. The 
Russians wear a pin, with the cross above the 
crescent ; it would hardly do for us to reverse the 
position. I went up for my sunset to the Parthenon. 
The French and Bavarian ministers and General 
Kalergi dined here. The last was mainly instru- 
mental in the establishment of the Constitution in 
1843. He has now just returned from Paris, and, in 
common with Admiral Canaris, takes an unfavour- 
able view of the present insurgent movement against 
Turkey. 

March 13th. — We made an expedition to the top 
of Mount Pentelicus. Mr. Wyse, Mr. Locock, and 
I, set out on horseback soon after eight ; we changed 
our horses at a convent near the base of the mountain. 
The road up is picturesque ; at first on a carpet of 
anemone and crocus, among thickets of arbutus and 
laurestinus ; soon there is little but the bare marble 
fragments, of which the hill is one large store-house ; 
the more especial quarries make a very striking spot, 

u 2 



292 



ATHENS. 



with pine-trees and ivy relieving the jagged gleaming 
masses : there is a large grotto with a dripping roof, 
a fit dwelling for any number of Nymphs. We 
found occasional drifts of snow in the crevices on 
our path. The day was very enjoyable, but not 
eminently clear for the view from the summit ; how- 
ever we made out distinctly enough the whole series 
of ridges, channels, and islands, from the end of the 
gulf of Corinth to the centre of Euboea. It must 
have been a proud view for an old Athenian, as its 
more immediate limits are Salamis on one side, and 
Marathon on the other. In front of the convent on 
our descent we found the ladies, the Austrian 
Minister and his wife, and, what was certainly not 
least pleasing to us at that moment, a table spread 
out under the trees on a daisied bit of sward with an 
excellent luncheon.* Our meal was copious and 
merry : we walked afterwards to the villas of the 
Duchess of Placentia ; there are three of them, very 
near together, and all unfinished, with a large upper 
story in each fitted up for her dogs. She is, as may 
be inferred, a very eccentric woman, daughter of 
M. Lebrun, one of the Three Consuls of France. 
On one occasion she was being carried off from one of 

* I imagine that this must have been nearly the spot where the 
English troops have been encamped during the present summer. 



ATHENS 



293 



these villas by a band of brigands, but was rescued 
by the inhabitants of the neighbouring village of 
Calandria : to show her gratitude she has built a 
public washhouse there, and inscribed it " Tals Ka- 
\avhpLvais, — Aux femmes de Calandre." We rode 
back and got home soon after dusk. 

March lAtL — Finished the "Knights" of Aristo- 
phanes: what a remarkable play it is, and how it ex- 
hibits the comic Muse as at once the lowest of buf- 
foons and the most exalted of teachers ! In such a 
community it must have subserved great purposes. 

" O sacred weapon, left for Truth's defence, 
Sole dread of folly, vice, and insolence." — Pope. 

The weather has relapsed into cloud and gust : we 
only rode about the town ; there are two extremely 
pretty candelabra of modern work in front of the 
new Observatory, and from nearly the same spot 
almost the best view of the Acropolis. 

March 15th. — Quite cold weather again. Went 
to see a sick English traveller and Mr. Hill. 

March 16th. — Snow fell in the streets. Walked 
round the Acropolis. Dined with M. Rouen, the 
French Minister ; a small party : General Kalergi, 
M. Conduriotti, the French Consul at Syra, Mr. 
Wyse, Mr. Manly. He has a pleasant apartment, 
and it was comfortable. I reverted to a tehibouque 

u 3 



294 



ATHENS. 



after dinner. All agree that matters grow more 
critical every moment for the Court here, who have 
nearly thrown off all disguise, and are said to sign 
commissions for the army of Thessaly, the army of 
Epirus. The worst feature is, that when all this is 
contrasted with the representations made by their 
ministers at Constantinople and the Western Courts, 
I fear very gross duplicity has been exhibited. The 
Greeks at our dinner said, that the Islands which are 
entirely unconcerned will suffer for the acts of the 
Continent, as they did in the war of independence. 

March Yltli. — Commander Popplewell, of the In- 
flexible, arrived from some of the Greek islands : all 
tolerably quiet there. This being an Irish household, 
we did not forget our common Irish sympathies on 
St. Patrick's Day. There were some people in the 
evening, and we had " small games." 

March 18 th. — After four or five days of chill and 
cloud, and during an actual drizzle, I set out before 
five in the morning on an expedition to the Argolid. 
I put myself on board the Austrian steamer, the 
Arciduca Giovanni. As we passed over the Saronic 
Gulf, the sun came out and lit up successively— 
Egina, with the temple of the Panhellenian Jupiter 
well placed on one of its hills,— the mountains above 
Epidaurus, — Troczene,— 



SAKONIC GULF. 



295 



TpoiZrjvy 'Wiovag te, icai afXirtXaevr * ETridavpov* 

B. 561. 

Eacine calls it "Paimable Troezenc" — (this epithet 
surely sounds very French, not that I would ever in 
the least depreciate that refined and tender Muse : 
men of cultivated taste differ so much about the 
merits of authors and artists, that it is obvious that, 
apart from the universal pre-eminence which almost 
every one will now allow to Homer, Shakespeare, or 
Raphael, there is one class of minds which will, and 
one which will not, be especially attracted to that 
order of polished, pure, perspicuous excellence, which 
I should describe as mainly represented by Virgil, 
Eacine, Pope, Gray, and Guido), — then Poros, with 
its modest arsenal half concealed, — then not classical, 
but heroic, Hydra; its rocky ledges were crowded with 
files of persons, waiting, I suppose, to hear the latest 
tidings of the Greek insurrection, — Hermione on the 
mainland, described with the usual Homeric truths— 

'EpfAiovrjV) 'Avivrjv re, paOvv Kara koXttov s%o*;(7a£. "j* 

B. 560. 



* " From high Trcezene, and Maseta's plain, 

And fair Egina circled by the main ; 

Whom strong Tyrinthe's lofty walls surround, 

And Epidaur with viny harvests crown'd." — Pope. 
•j* " And where fair Asinen and Hermion show 

Their cliffs above, and ample bay below."— Pope, 
u 4 



296 THE AKGOLID. 

— the island of Spezzia, till we anchored in the long 
bay under the high rock of Nauplia. I made ac- 
quaintance on board with Mr. Gilpin, a lawyer of 
great distinction at Philadelphia, whom I found full 
of classical taste and zest, and we joined our fortunes 
for the rest of the expedition. I had intended to 
sleep both nights on board the steamboat ; but finding 
that he was provided with a good courier, Strati, I 
went on with them to pass the first at Argos, about 
seven miles further. We got there at twilight, found 
shelter hospitable, though certainly somewhat rude, 
in the private house of an Argive dame, Kvpca Xra- 
fidTiKTjy and enjoyed the tea we had brought in the 
glass tumbler which she supplied. We got rather 
better beds than we could have expected. 

March 19th. — We were mounted on horseback by 
six, saw the sun rise clear and cloudless on the 
Argive Gulf, forded the Charadrus and Inachus, and 
arrived at Mycenae. This has great interest and 
beauty : in its site it singularly resembles Troy ; it 
has not so good a river as the Simois, but the view 
before us was the rich plain of Argos, " famed for 
generous steeds," now brightly green with the young 
corn; the encircling chains of the Laconian, the 
Argive, and Nemean Mountains, still vividly white 
with snow; — the high-peaked citadel of Argos itself 



THE AEG OLID. 



297 



opposite to us; — lower down the sharp-edged rock 
and sea-washed promontory of Nauplia; — the blue bay 
below; — the wall of Tiryns; — the marsh of Lerna. 
Apart even from all associations, the massive con- 
struction of the subterranean chambers, called the 
Treasury of Atreus and Tomb of Agamemnon., of the 
walls of the Acropolis, and the Gate of Lions, is 
most striking. I thought the lions themselves (for- 
give me, ye Atridse !) a little like the one in 
front of Buckingham Palace. But, with becoming 
hesitation be it said, we do not think that the murder 
of Agamemnon took place here, but at Argos. I 
admit that it cost something not to place the form 
of Cassandra, heaving with the last ecstasies of pro- 
phecy and song, before the still-existing Gate of 
Lions. Moreover, Mycenre seems to have been un- 
doubtedly the capital and royal residence of Aga- 
memnon, while Argos was under Diomed ; but it is 
to be observed, on the other side, that in the me- 
morable description of the successive beacons which 
announced the capture of Troy in the " Agamemnon" 
of .ZEschylus (that great tragedy, which seems to me 
to hold the same place in the Greek theatre that 
"Macbeth" does in ours), if of the two last summits 
which intervene between Cithosron and the Palace of 
Clyteinnaestra, iEgiplanctus be Mount Geranion, and 



298 



THE ARGOLXD. 



the Arachnaean Peak be the highest mountain above 
Epidaurus, now called, it would seem, Mount Kehli, 
and supposed, from the interlacing of it s rocky crevices, 
to suggest the idea of a spider ; — this, the last sum- 
mit of all, is visible from Argos, and not from My- 
cenae: then, as to the internal evidence from the 
play, if I remember right, Argos is the word used 
throughout, though, as it was probably the place of 
disembarkation, which Mycenae could not be, this 
may not be in itself a conclusive point. 

After descending from Mycenae, we looked for 
what our guide knew nothing about, and Professor 
Felton had inquired for the other day in vain ; but 
we succeeded, by the aid of Col. Mure's " Tour in 
Greece," and " Murray's Handbook," in finding the 
Heraeum, or great Temple of Juno. The list of 
its Priestesses used to be preserved, like those of 
Kings and Archons. It is about three miles from 
Mycenae, on the left of the road to Nauplia: there 
are four distinct terraces, with very large substruc- 
tions ; the position near the base of the hills, when 
its white frontal gleamed over the rest of the plain, 
must have been very imposing, and explains the 
fitness, and almost the necessity, in such sites and 
under such skies, of the long processions, winding 
over the level ground below, and ascending the sue- 



THE AEG OLID. 



299 



cessive flights of steps to the porticoes above, As it 
was thought that the straightest road back over the 
plain would be too wet from the melting of snows, we 
returned to Argos (not now deserving its Homeric 
epithet of ttoXv^I^lov^ thirsty), saw the remains of its 
theatre, of a temple of Venus, and of a Roman bath ; 
stopped on our way to look at Tiryns, and its famed 
Cyclopean walls, for which, however, I did not parti- 
cularly care ; nor did the stones appear more gigantic 
than those of Mycense, the Herseum, or the Pnyx at 
Athens. There is a very pretty vista of landscape 
through one of the old galleries built in the wall. I 
need not repeat that I do not affect to enter into 
architectural detail ; but both in this gallery, and the 
Treasury of Atreus at Mycense, you have clearly the 
pointed arch to all virtual effect in the earliest known 
architecture of Greece. When we got back to 
Nauplia, I went up what seemed the interminable 
series of stairs to the summit of the upper citadel, 
called the Palamede. They showed me over the 
barracks and military prison ; these I imagine to be 
very inferior to those ordinarily found in Turkey. 
The view of gulf, plain, and mountain is very fine. 
I also saw the church, at the door of which Capo 
dTstria was at the same moment shot and stabbed by 
two of the Mavro-michali family. I was told that 



300 



ATHENS. 



a hundred recruits were to set off for the frontier 
next day, and that there is considerable enthusiasm 
among the population. At sunset we returned in the 
Austrian steamer ; we had a very energetic Greek 
on board, who denounced both Turks and Russians 
as two sets of barbarians, who were fighting for Con- 
stantinople, which belonged rightfully to them, the 
Greeks. The night was rather rough. 

March 20th. — We anchored in the Piraeus 
before dawn. I walked most of the way up, and 
Athens looked very beautiful in the clear fresh 
morning, especially when I took my stand on the 
Areopagus. Is it wholly fanciful to think that in 
the presence of St. Paul on this spot of the Areo- 
pagus, something of allowance as well as of re- 
buke was conveyed to the surrounding associations 
of the scene? The direct and immediate object of 
his appearance and address here, was undoubtedly to 
annul the false sanctities of the place, to extinguish 
every altar, strip every shrine, dethrone every idol. 
This object has been achieved with entire success: 
whatever may have been substituted in the interval, 
we may feel a reasonable confidence that on the rock 
of the Acropolis Paganism can never be reseated ; 
the words of the man, " weak and contemptible in 
bodily presence," spoken on that rocky brow, amidst 



ATHENS, 



301 



the mocking circle, still live and reign, while 
tongues, and races, and empires have been swept 
away. But the pre-eminence of the true faith being 
thus secured, it surely need not be with the aban- 
doned shrines of Hellas, as with the uncouth orgies 
of barbarous tribes, or the bloody rites of human 
sacrifice : it could not have been without providential 
agency, that within the narrow and rugged circuit, 
hemmed in by the slopes of Parnes, Pentelicus, and 
Hymettus, were concentrated the master efforts of 
human excellence, in arts and arms, in intellect and 
imagination, in eloquence and song. The lessons of 
the Apostle have taught mankind, that all other 
beauties and glories fade into nothing by the side of 
the Cross ; but while we look to that Cross as the 
law of our life, while we look to that Apostle on the 
Hill of Mars at Athens as the teacher whose words 
of truth and soberness have superseded the wisdom 
of all her sages and the dreams of all her bards, then, 
if then only, it will be lawful for us to enjoy the 
whole range of subordinate attractions; it will be 
felt not to be without its import that St. Paul him- 
self did not refuse to illustrate Gospel truth by 
reference to human literature; nor without its im- 
port too that those who did most to revive the express 
teaching, and exhibit the actual spirit of St. Paul, 



302 



ATHENS. 



Luther, Melancthon, and their brother Reformers, 
would have been conspicuous as the revivers of classi- 
cal literature, even if they had not been the restorers 
of scriptural faith : and so for us too the long line 
of the Panathenaic procession may seem to wind 
through the portals of the Propyleea, and ascend the 
steps of the Parthenon ; for us the delicate columns 
of the unwinged Victory may recall the lineage of 
Miltiades and the shame of Persia ; for us the me- 
lodious nightingale may still pour her plaint in the 
green coverts of the sparkling Colonus; and hill, 
and plain, and grove, and temple, may feed us 
unrebuked with their thronging images of the past 
glory and the living beauty. 

Events move; in the course of the day the 
French Admiral Barbiere de Tinan arrived in the 
Gomer steamer, and Captain Moore in the High- 
flyer screw: the Four Powers met, and sent 
in their first collective note to the Greek Govern- 
ment, backing the demand of the Turkish Charge 
d' Affaires for satisfaction and redress for their acts 
of connivance with the insurgents, and intimating 
that a refusal might be attended with disastrous 
consequences for Greece. In the afternoon I 
drove with the ladies to the bay of Phalerum, 
and the Colian cape, where the Persian fleet was 



ATHENS. 



303 



driven on shore, where Demosthenes is said to 
have practised with his pebbles, and where the 
Queen of Greece has now a bathing-house. I 
walked back ; the view of the Acropolis all the way 
was magnificent, but the sunset from the Parthenon 
failed. 

March 2\st— Eain all day. The Greek Minis- 
ters referred their proposed answer for the Turks 
to the chambers ; it was thoroughly evasive and 
nugatory. An amendment was moved in the Se- 
nate, to the effect that they had not the requisite 
information before them, and that they must leave 
the Ministers to their responsibility ; the original 
answer of the Government was carried by a majority 
of twenty-two to sixteen, which is reckoned a very 
slight one for them; the King had sent for several 
Senators in the morning to talk them over : in the 
Deputies, as he has in fact appointed every member 
among them, there was naturally no opposition. 
After these constitutional operations, their Majesties 
went to Daphne, where a number of recruits were 
assembled for starting to the frontiers. I hear that 
these men had assisted at a Te Deum for the Emperor 
of Russia in the old convent. Under all these cir- 
cumstances, it is not surprising that Nechat Bey, the 
Turkish Charge d' Affaires, intends to leave Athens 



304 



SUNIUM. 



to-morrow morning. I paid some visits. Captain 
Moore dined with us. 

March 22nd. — My instinct hit upon a beautiful 
day for an expedition to Sunium, or Cape Colonna. 
I set out at four with Yani, before mentioned, in 
a light carriage, which in five hours took us to 
Keratea, a small village about twenty-two miles off; 
here we had sent on saddle-horses the day before, 
and twelve miles further took us to Sunium. The 
descent upon it has not so much magnificence, but 
more softness than that upon Marathon ; the thymy 
hills were quite inlaid with many-coloured flowers. 
When you come to the extreme point of the sacred 
soil, where the twelve columns still remaining of the 
temple of Minerva crown the beetling cliff, the view 
is very lovely ; on the left, in four successive ridges, 
lie the islands of Macro-nisi, or island of Helen, the 
old Cranae, where the first night after the elopement 
from Sparta was spent ; then Zea, where Aristasus 
had six hundred steers, and Simonides was born, 
and the weaving of silk invented, and persons above 
sixty years old were expected to poison themselves ; 
then Thermia, famous for its baths ; then " small 
Seripho ; " directly opposite is the picturesque form 
of St. George d'Arbora ; immediately below, the 
little island of Patroclus, not the friend of Achilles, 



SUNIUM. 305 

but the Admiral of Ptolemy, who was sent to assist 
the Athenians against the Macedonians, and part of 
whose fortifications still remain ; across the gulf, the 
long line of the Morea ends with the knoll of 
Hydra; and the sparkling circlet of isles is closed 
by the soft outline of Egina. Almost more beautiful 
than all was the smooth transparence of the sea 
below over its rocky caves and ledges — such couches 
for the Nereids ! The pillars of the temple, unlike 
those of the Parthenon and the rest at Athens, are 
of quite dazzling whiteness ; is this owing to the 
dash of the spray from the sea below ? For the sug- 
gestions of the spot, I must allow myself to refer to 
a short inscription which I once wrote for some frag- 
ments which had been conveyed from their own hill 
by Admiral Sir Augustus Clifford, and put up in the 
garden of Chatsworth. 

These fragments stood on Sunium's airy steep. 

They reared on high Minerva's guardian shrine, 
Beneath them rolled the blue iEgean deep, 

And the Greek pilot hailed them as divine. 

Haply e'en such their look of calm repose, 

As wafted round them came the sounds of fight, 

When the glad shout of conqu'ring Athens rose 
O'er the long track of Persia's broken flight. 

Embraced by prostrate worshippers no more, 
They yet shall breathe a thrilling lesson here ; 

Tho' distant from their own immortal shore, 
The spot they grace is still to Freedom dear. 



306 



ATHENS. 



In our way back we made a small diversion to 
look at Thoricus, the site of an old Athenian deme, 
or small town, which has the remains of a theatre, 
tower, and temple, and a remarkably pretty plain. 
We passed also still subsisting heaps of cinders, which 
belonged to the old workings of the silver mines at 
Laurium. Many English tourists can depose to the 
spirit and intelligence of my guide. Our return 
ride and drive brought us back to Athens between 
eight and nine, and we were reckoned to have made 
very good work of it. Nechat Bey had taken his 
departure. 

March 23rd. — Went with the Wyses to the 
Pirseus ; we went on board the Highflyer, in which 
I purpose to make a cruise to-morrow. We called 
on the Consul, and on Mrs. Black. Who is she ? 
She was Lord Byron's Maid of Athens, and I 
thought her eyes still extremely fine, rather like 
what I remember of Mrs. DodwelFs, whom I always 
have thought the most beautiful woman I ever saw. 
The maid was only about thirteen when Lord 
Byron wrote his verses ; her life has been most re- 
spectable: she has some handsome children. The 
French Admiral Barbiere de Tinan, who has come 
here in the Gomer, and some other officers from the 



H. M. S. HIGHFLYER. 



307 



French and English ships, dined with Mr. Wyse. 
People and music in the evening. 

March 21th. — Took leave of General Church 
and Mr. Hill. In the afternoon went with Cap- 
tain Moore on board the Highflyer. We are to ac- 
company the Gomer to the Macedonian and Thracian 
coast, to show the flag, encourage the Turks, and 
prevent any improper communications from Greece. 
Just before embarking, the French Admiral heard 
that one of their steamers was aground at Mitylene, 
so he goes to help it, and gives us rendezvous in the 
Gulf of Volo. We left the Pirseus at sunset, but it 
was not a worthy one. 

March 25th. — As there was no cause for haste, 
we did not use the screw, and the wind being con- 
trary, we made but slow progress through the Doro 
passage between Euboea and Andros, which how- 
ever we accomplished during the night, without risk 
from the avenger rock, Caphareus *, which finished 
the younger Ajax. 

March 26th. — Captain Moore read service. I 
like his ship, and himself, most particularly. It was 
nearly a complete calm all day ; in the evening we 

* " The vengeful Capharaean coast, 
The Eubcean rocks." — Dryden, JEn. 

x2 



308 



GULF OF YOLO. 



put on the screw. We dined in the gun-room with 
the officers. 

March 27th. — The sun rose very finely, and at 
the same moment we saw Parnassus on one side and 
Athos on the other, which seems an amazing stretch 
of vision. As we glided on over the smooth water, 
we passed between the islands of Scyros — famous for 
the birth of Neoptolemus, goats, and streaked marble 
— Peparethos, Scopelos, Sciathos, on one side ; the 
wooded headlands which form the north of Euboca, 
and Cape Artemisium, on the other: Mounts (Eta, 
Othrys, Pelion, Ossa, and Olympus, in their long 
snowy series, rose before us. Here, if anywhere, one 
might admit the truth of Lady Mary Wortley s 
lines — 

" Warmed with poetic transport, I survey 
Th' immortal islands, and the well-known sea, 
For here so oft the muse her harp has strung, 
That not a mountain rears its head unsung." 

In addition to all these islands and mountains, we 
descried the Gomer on her course from Mitylene ; 
we got up to her, and then respectfully followed her 
into the Gulf of Volo, and anchored before the town. 
This seems to have been the ancient Iolcos at the 
foot of Pelion. This old mountain of the Centaurs 



VOLO. 



309 



looks nearly the most populous region which I have 
seen in the East ; it is thickly dotted with villages, 
and there is one that literally starts from the sea- 
beach, and stretches up to the present snow-line, 
which seems to begin between three and four thou- 
sand feet above the sea : they are mainly Greek vil- 
lages, though we are now some little distance within 
the Turkish frontier. Our mission here indeed is to 
give countenance to the invaded Turks, and the 
reverse to the insurgent Greeks ; such, probably, is 
loyally our duty ; still the thought recurs, where are 
we now doing this ? — opposite the pass of Ther- 
mopylae. 

What with the French Admiral, and the Turkish 
flag, and an Austrian corvette we found here, there 
began an endless number of salutes, and a sufficient 
expenditure of powder to keep a Thessalian war 
alive for a year at least. A message was sent to 
the Kaimacan or Governor, to announce a visit to 
him from the French Admiral and English Captain 
to-morrow morning. I landed with Captain Moore 
for a walk. On the pier we met many reports ; 
the insurgents under Captain Papa-costa, of the 
Greek army, were two hours off ; they were in pos- 
session of Armyro, a town a little way down the 
gulf; they were 14,000 men; they had killed 16,000 



310 



YOLO. 



Turks ; the more immediate apprehension, however, 
seemed from the irregular Albanians who had been 
sent to defend the place, and received no pay. We 
had looked at the town, which has a tolerable wall 
and ditch ; within, it has the usual thriftless, crazy- 
appearance : I should like to walk with one of our 
fervid Ottomaniacs at home, one of the last thirty 
years' progress-men, through any real Turkish town. 
We strolled on over the plain of Yolo, and came 
to a romantic dell with an old bridge or aqueduct, 
over what may have been the Anaurus, in fording 
which Jason, as we are told, in perhaps the most 
picturesque passage in all Pindar * (which is saying 
much), lost his sandal, and then went into the 
market place of lolcos, and the people surrounded 
him, and doubted whether he was Apollo, or Mars 
of the brazen car. They will not now take Ad- 
miral Barbiere de Tinan or Captain Moore for 
either Divinity, but they could stand them in 
better stead. Some of the ship's officers dined 
with us. 

March 28th. — I accompanied the Admiral and 
Captain on their visit to the Kaimacan in the 
Turkish town ; pipes and coffee as usual. I thought 



* Pyth. 4. 



MOUNT PELION. 



311 



the French Admiral conducted the interview with 
judicious dignity, proffering assistance in conveying 
troops or ammunition for them, but remonstrating 
against the outrages committed on the inhabitants 
by the Albanians. The Kaimacan, a very fine- 
looking man, appeared very helpless, without money 
enough to pay, or regular troops enough to control 
them. The Austrian Captain, upon whom we all 
called afterwards, confirmed the accounts of the 
Albanian misdeeds ; they robbed one of his mid- 
shipmen, and he could get no redress, and we hear 
of their setting houses on fire, cutting oflf people's 
hands, &c. We find that the fleets have gone into 
the Black Sea. I walked with Captain Moore to a 
lofty, but not the loftiest village on Mount Pelion ; 
they are large communities, with about 500 houses : 
we had some copious conversation with some of 
the inhabitants, rendered less instructive by our not 
being able to understand each other, but we col- 
lected that they have been perfectly quiet ; they are 
surrounded by vine, olive, and fig, with scattered 
corn-fields at the base of the hills, and many a rill 
and fountain on their grey slopes. We took, for 
defence against any stray Albanians, not the Pelian 
spear, but two pocket-pistols and a revolver. 

x 4 



312 



GULF OF VOLO. 



JlrjXiaSa fueXirjv^ rr\v iraTpi (piky ttojO£ Xelpiov 
HrjXLov sk: Kopvfprjg, (povo'v tfifievai rfpwtcrcnv* 

March 29th. — The Gomer and Highflyer took a 
cruise round the Gulf of Volo. We stopped first 
off a Greek village, just beyond the frontier, and 
sent two boats on shore to give some warning counsel ; 
they protested their innocence of all insurrectionary 
intentions, and said they well knew what services 
had been rendered to them by France and England 
at the battle of Navarino. It was a new-looking, 
well-built place, evincing its modern origin by its 
name of Amaliopolis, from the Queen Amalia, and it 
certainly contrasted favourably with purely Turkish 
villages. We then anchored off Armyro, where a 
Turkish brig had been landing ammunition for the 
defence of the town. This is on the banks of the 
old Amphrysus, where Apollo fed the flocks of Ad- 
metus : — 

" et te, memorande, canemus, 
Pastor ab Amphryso." — Georg. in. l.f 



* " From Pelion's cloudy top an ash entire, 

Old Chiron felled, and shaped it for his sire, 
A spear which stern Achilles only wields, 
The death of heroes and the dread of fields." 

Fope. 

j* " I sing thy pastures in no vulgar verse, 
Amphrysian shepherd !" — Dryden. 



GULF OF VOLO. 



313 



On our return we passed a very pretty island with a 
Greek monastery, opposite Cape Trikheri. Here was 
Mount Tisoeus, sacred to the sister goddess Diana. 

March 30th. — Walked with Captain Moore ; we 
explored the site of Pagasas, which formerly gave 
the name to the whole gulf. There are extensive 
foundations of walls and other buildings. We came 
to a beautiful spring welling out of a rock ; it cannot, 
however, be the fountain of Hypereia. which has been 
the subject of much dispute, and of a false quantity 
by Pope, 

" or bring 

The weight of waters from Hyperias spring." — II. vi. 583. 

We dined with the French Admiral on board the 
Gomer; met the Austrian Captain, the Abbe, and 
other officers of the French ships. We had an 
excellent dinner, and it seemed singular to be eating 
pate de foie gras in the port of the ancient Iolcos. 

March 3\st. — This morning four large Turkish 
frigates entered the gulf with troops. Upon this the 
French Admiral determined to return to Athens. I 
think he accomplished his short function here with 
much judgment; he has induced the Governor to 
make some payment to the Albanians, and send most 
of them off; he has shown the two flags in union on 



314 



THE PIEiEUS. 



the scene of active strife at the frontier, and now 
leaves it for a short time, after the arrival of a 
sufficient reinforcement of men, arms, and provisions, 
from the lawful government of the country. We set 
off at one, leaving, I grieve to say, an officer of 
marines and a clerk on the top of Mount Pelion, 
whither they had gone early in the morning without 
leave. A Borra or north wind sprung up at night. 

April 1st — It was quite a rough night, breaking 
a tobacco jar, and spilling the inkstand in our cabin. 
As the wind was favourable, we took to our sails, 
skimmed rapidly through the Doro passage, and 
under the columns of Sunium, which glittered beauti- 
fully from their cliff. We screwed again into the 
Pirseus, and arrived before sunset : we found the 
French Gomer and Heron, and our Triton ; the news 
of the Russians having crossed the Danube, and, what 
concerned us most, orders to go up to Constantinople : 
so I shall gladly still avail myself of the friendly 
Highflyer, to repair for a moment to the centre of 
action. We have to stay twenty-four hours on 
board here, for the foolish quarantine. It would be 
one motive for getting rid of the present government 
of Greece, to do away with this folly, which Turkey 
has, I believe, now discontinued from every quarter, 
except Odessa, for which one cannot reproach her. 



ATHENS. 



315 



April 2nd. — In quarantine till four. Captain 
Moore read the service, and we had a batch of Galig- 
nanis. We drove up to Athens, and dined with the 
Wyses; there were Generals Church and Kalergi, 
and M. Rouen, the French minister. The news 
of the Russians having passed the Danube had 
excited much sensation here ; not the least so at the 
Palace, where we are told that libations of champagne 
were immediately supplied. New departures con- 
tinually take place for the frontiers ; and among them 
are several in high favour at Court, as well as in 
much vogue among the general society of the capital. 

April 3rd. — The wind continued so high, that 
Captain Moore settled not to set off till to-morrow 
morning. We called on the Hills together; went to 
Jupiter Olympius, and as we were sitting at a very 
favourite point of view in the theatre of Herodes 
Atticus, we were joined by Mr. and Miss Wyse, and 
all went up to the Acropolis ; the wind had fallen, 
the approaching sunset was unclouded, all were very 
full of zest, and it was an afternoon to be well re- 
membered. M. Pittakys was there, very intent on 
an inscription lately found, which showed that the 
Propylsea were built when Hymenaeus was Archon, 
as indeed was already known from some Greek 
author. Austria and France at tea ; some music. 



316 



II . M. S. HIGHFLYER. 



April 4th. — We drove by a bright sunrise to the 
Piraeus. Screwed out at eight; perfect day. The 
temple at Sunium gleamed resplendently over the 
noontide sea. We passed Cape Doro under an un- 
clouded sunset. 

April 5th. — The wind got up in the night right in 
our teeth; we went rather to the south of our course 
as we economise our force of coal. We came up the 
west side of Mitylene ; saw Ida and Athos (the 
latter eighty-seven miles off) at sunset. 

April 6th. — Went on deck at sunrise ; I think we 
were precisely passing my long berth in the Ven- 
geance in the mid Hellespont. At Gallipoli we found 
1000 English troops with Sir George Brown, and 
1000 French j with General Canrobert. Among the 
firsts I found a nephew * and cousin. They had only 
preceded us by a few hours, and the English General 
and his staff looked rather helpless on the narrow 
plank in front of the rotten quarantine shed of the 
obscure town of Gallipoli, surrounded by some very 
impassive looking Turks. There we left them, and 
for the time I thought the naval profession had on 
the whole the best of it. 

April 7 th. — By this sunrise we were passing over 
the unrippled Propontis in front of the Seven 
Towers. The graceful minarets of Sultan Achmed 
* Alas! Oct. 1854. 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



317 



and the massive cupola of St. Sophia rose beautifully 
as ever ; there was, however, still much mist on the 
Golden Horn. I took a last breakfast on board the 
Highflyer, and felt unusual regret at leaving that 
pleasant ship, and its admirable Captain. We called 
on Lord Stratford ; I thought him looking all the 
better for his laborious winter. I do not collect 
that the Russian advance has created much appre- 
hension among the Turkish population. Saw my 
excellent Dr. Sandwith. I walked to the Hippo- 
drome ; besides being almost the sole clear bit of 
space in this vast capital, it is the only spot, with its 
neighbouring St. Sophia, that I feel to be in the 
least redolent of antiquity ; who, however, would 
care for Byzantine after Athenian antiquities ? I 
was struck with the solitude and stillness of the 
greater number of the streets in Stamboul in com- 
parison with the humming and dinning lanes of Pera 
and Galata. Dined at the Embassy — Captain Moore 
and the staff, among whom it was pleasant to meet 
again persons of such very uncommon intelligence 
and ability as Messrs. Alison and Smythe. 

April 8th. — Settled to resort yet once more to the 
Highflyer, and pay a visit to my old friends of the 
fleet in the Black Sea. We set off at noon, carrying 
with us a chamberlain of the Sultan's, a Turkish 



318 



THE BLACK SEA. 



colonel, and some attendants, in charge of money 
for their army. The Chamberlain and Colonel dined 
with us, but as they could only speak Turkish, the 
communication between us was but scant ; this in 
my view made them all the better company. The 
Bosphorus looked very sparkling in bright sunshine ; 
we landed for ten minutes at Therapia, and saw 
Lady Emily Dundas, who is there at the head of a 
little colony of captain's wives. We found the Black 
Sea in perfect calm, but a considerable squall came 
on quite suddenly at night, which made our Turks 
very squeamish. 

April 9th. — They remained recumbent all the 
morning, but not even sea-sickness prevents a Turk 
from smoking. We landed them and their money 
bags at Varna, at three, and came on about four- 
teen miles further north to Kavarna Bay, where the 
allied fleets have been anchored for a fortnight. We 
had been preceded an hour or two by the Niger, 
which brought to our Admiral the declaration of 
war ; the signal had been received by our fleet with 
great cheering. The French despatch had not yet 
come. Upon our arrival we went on board the 
Britannia, where the kind Admiral's peremptory hos- 
pitality insisted on my coming to my old quarters at 
once. We found with him Sir Edmund Lyons and 



KAVARNA BAY. 



319 



the French flag captain, all intent on the coming 
operations. 

April \0tli. — Our Admiral wished to have pro- 
ceeded to Odessa to-day, but the French Admiral 
has not yet received his intimation of the war. 
There was much occupation with the arrival of 
steamers from different quarters. Captain Parker 
brought in the Firebrand our Consul from the 
Sulina mouth of the Danube, where he had lived 
ten years; it is difficult to conceive that the war 
must not be a deliverance to him. It is very difficult 
to ascertain the actual progress of the Russians on 
this side of the Danube, near at hand as they must 
be. The Greeks give astonishing accounts of their 
progress, but authentic intelligence is not one of the 
natural products of Eastern regions. Sir Edmund 
and some captains dined with us. It is pleasant to 
see the entire friendly accord and confidence between 
our two Admirals. The Black Sea swells much 
towards evening. "We are off an uninteresting 
sandy hillocky shore. I have seen a frightful account 
from Captain Peel of Turkish atrocities in Albania. 
Captain Parker, of the Firebrand, has picked up two 
little Bulgarian children on the shore here, one of 
three years, the other eight months old; the last 
was lying wounded on its dead mother's breast: 



320 



KAVAENA BAY. 



they had been fired upon by the Turkish irregular 
troops ; I hear the crew make much of the children. 

April Wtlu — The Retribution and Niger are sent 
to Odessa; the Firebrand to the Sulina mouth of 
the Danube. English captains and a French 
captain dined. In the evening Captain Excelmans, 
a naval aide-de-camp of the Emperor Napoleon, came 
in; he had just returned from a visit to Omer Pasha, 
at Shumla ; he has 40,000 men there, and is in good 
heart ; the Russians do not seem to have made any 
further advance since they crossed the Danube. The 
Captain formed a high opinion of Omer Pasha's 
intelligence. 

April 12 th. — Went with the Admiral on board 
the Agamemnon, Sir Edmund Lyons's flag-ship ; it 
is a screw steamer of 91 guns, and is in every 
respect a most magnificent vessel. The Admiral 
also inspected the Terrible, a most powerful paddle 
steamer. Sir Edmund, Captain Excelmans, Captain 
Twopenny, of the army, and some naval captains 
dined : we had just remarked the splendour of the 
sunset, when a violent squall set in from the land, 
mixing up sand, mist, and wave ; beds were put up 
for all the dinner company ; in the midst of all this 
we went to the main deck, to see the crew act 
" J ohn Dobbs," and " Did you ever send your Wife to 



KAVAKNA BAY. 



321 



Camberwell ? " which they did most entertainingly. 
The drama and the storm were concluded with supper 
and punch. Such is " Life in the Black Sea/' after 
a declaration of w T ar 5 and during a gale.* 

* In painful, but not in dishonourable contrast to such an 
entry, I must allow myself to insert an extract from a letter 
which I have lately received from the good and popular doctor 
of the Britannia, Mr. Rees, after the violent outbreak of cholera 
on board. I feel sure that he will excuse this liberty. " A 
scene now commenced impossible to describe, and without a 
parallel I believe in the history of our service. Besides the 
cases of diarrhoea, previously healthy and strong men began to 
fall down in various parts of the ship. They were brought into 
me, frequently, two or three at a time. About two hours after 
the commencement of the outbreak, the deaths began, and fifty 
men died in twenty hours. The experiment of putting to sea 
having thus failed, every effort was made to get back to Baldjik. 
There was a strong contrary wind and current, the disease in 
the meantime continuing with almost the same uninterrupted 
violence. We found the harbour full of empty transports, and 
we removed at once all our sick and healthy into them, leaving 
only the officers and two boats' crews. This complete measure 
at once arrested the progress of the scourge. All the healthy 
men have been brought back to the ship ; they are in excellent 
spirits, and are again in a condition to beat the best Russian 
three-decker in the Black Sea. This strange invasion termi- 
nated as suddenly and miraculously as it began. I hope never 
to go through such a scene again. In the cases of sudden 
collapse, I did not find medical treatment of the least use. The 
admiral bore himself very manfully throughout ; you can 
imagine how much a man like him must have felt. I was well 
supported by the officers throughout this very trying scene. 
Discipline was fully maintained. The devotion of the men to 

Y 



322 



KAVAENA BAY. 



April 13th. — Captain Excelmans stayed for break- 
fast ; he is very intelligent and well conditioned. I 
do not think his anticipations of the decisiveness of 
this year's campaigns are very sanguine. If the 
Russians remain where they are, he seems to think 
that the allies can do very little against them, which 
does not sound a brilliant prospect. Very cold 
all day ; the water poured out to wash the decks 
became ice immediately. I dined with the Admiral 
in the ward room, where I continue to think them 
a very fine set. 

April 14th. — Good Friday. Captain Tatham of 
the Fury returned from Sebastopol with the first 
Russian flag taken in the Black Sea. It is from a 
merchant schooner, which he picked up close to 
Sebastopol ; two Russian frigates, two brigs of war, 
and a steamer, came out after him^ and as they were 
gaining on him, he was obliged to let the schooner 
g-o, but brought off the crew; the Russian ships 
gained on him so much at one time, that he was 
obliged to start (i. e. let out) some of the water on 
board ; several shots were interchanged : all seemed to 
think the affair very handily done. The captain or 

their sick and dying messmates was truly wonderful ; nothing 
could surpass it. Many of them lost their lives through sheer 
fatigue in the discharge of such duties.'* 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



323 



master of the ship was questioned before our two 
Admirals ; he is a Dalmatian, and a fine-looking 
fellow. He confirms the account that the Russians 
have not more than twelve available line-of-battle 
ships in Sebastopol. My courier was of much use 
as an interpreter. The Russian sailors seemed 
much to relish the cocoa that was given them. I 
fear it may sound almost like an incongruous transi- 
tion to the sacred service of the day : it was properly 
and pleasingly performed. I avail myself of the 
return of the Fury to the Golden Horn this evening ; 
so I took leave of my friends in the Britannia above 
and below, with very hearty wishes for their welfare, 
safety, and, if the necessity comes, their glory. The 
Fury started about nine in the evening. Captain 
Tatham is a fine manly fellow ; I have certainly 
been most fortunate in my naval commanders. My 
many and varied visits among the ships of the 
Eastern fleet have not only given me a heartier 
sympathy with their coming fortunes, but have 
greatly increased my respect, which previously was 
not slight, for the whole naval service. 

April 15tk. — We had averaged about nine knots 
an hour during the night : it has been passably rough, 
and was intensely cold in the morning. We entered 
the Bosphorus about noon amidst frequent snow 

Y 2 



324 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



squalls, stopped for a short time at the colony of 
wives in Therapia — which includes Mrs. Tatham 
— and left the captured flag with Lady Emily 
Dundas, then proceeded to the Golden Horn. The 
Himalaya was in the act of landing the 33rd and 
4 1st regiments at Scutari. Messiri's hotel had quite 
changed its appearance : we were forty at dinner, in 
the large room above stairs, and had amongst us the 
red and green coats of English officers and engineers. 
I called on Lord Stratford afterwards; found with 
him Mr, Yeames, our Consul from Odessa, where 
he had lived for forty years, and Mr. Cooke, in- 
ventor of the Electric Telegraph. 

April 16th. — Easter Sunday. I walked to church 
through the snow ! Mr. Blakiston's congregation 
was very crowded in the small room at the Embassy ; 
a church or chapel is indeed much required here. 
Nearly all present remained for the Sacrament. 
Called on Dr. Sandwith and Mme, Baltazzi. There 
is some fear that at least one ship laden with the 
expelled Greeks has gone down. I think this act 
of wholesale rigour might have been spared; the 
wealthy and the intriguing, probably the only really 
mischievous persons, will be able to evade it, while it 
descends with crushing weight on the poor and the 
industrious. Dined at the Embassy : only the staff. 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



325 



April 17 th. — Took a Turkish bath. Went with 
Dr. Sandwith in a caique to Scutari, where four of 
our regiments are now put up in the splendid barracks 
there. They will hold altogether 8000 men, and 
there are some other large barracks not far off to be 
allotted for our use. We called on that fine soldier, 
General Adams. The scene in the large barrack- 
yard was curious : here were some of our men mildly 
smiling as a Turkish sentry went by ; there was a fat 
Turkish officer looking curiously at the unpacking 
of a case of Minie rifles, of which, however, there is 
a quantity in their army ; here one of our bands was 
practising a stunning march, before crowds of lookers 
on. We saw all this under the real restored Eastern 
sky, gilding all the gleaming shores and glittering 
cities. I hear that in Persia the Russian Ambassador, 
Prince Dolgorouki, has given the Grand Vizier a 
violent blow over the shin with his cane. They tell 
me that the resistance of Persia to the views of 
Russia is mainly owing to the adroit management of 
Achmed EfFendi, whom I have before heard reputed 
the most able of Turkish statesmen, and, rarer 
attribute, the most honest. 

April 18th. — My birthday ! How little it has been 
in my thoughts, far away from those who pay heed 

Y 3 



326 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



to it — how much less than it ought to have been, 
with a view to all the accumulating responsibilities 
of life ! This strolling year must clearly be an ex- 
ceptional one. I went with Dr. Sandwith to the 
bazaars. I made a few purchases in Ludovico's shop ; 
he is an Armenian, talking French extremely well, 
within a sort of old curiosity store, which is much fre- 
quented. It rather protracts the process of shopping 
to begin by drinking coffee with your shopkeeper. 
We went on to a genuine Turkish kibaub shop. I 
know not whether my reader needs to be informed 
that kibaubs are small pieces of mutton grilled on a 
set of skewers, which are served on pieces of thick 
baked bread, with a little salad. I was about to sit 
down on a low stool, when Dr. Sandwith remonstrated, 
" Do not sit on the table." He then took me to the 
corner of an old khan, or general lodging-house, 
where an old schoolmaster was giving instruction to 
four or five boys. He belonged to the class of Softas, 
which seems rather to answer to the idea of the old 
Jewish schools of the Prophets. They are generally 
the most inveterate Mussulmen of the empire ; and 
this man, who had formerly given Dr. Sandwith some 
lessons in Turkish, would not rise when we Christians 
entered, or give us the slightest salute. He seemed, 
however, glad to see my friend and talk to him. 



THERAPIA. 



327 



I was not quite fortunate in suggesting, as a sort 
of touch-stone, that he should be asked how he liked 
the new Sheikh-ul-Islam (the highest functionary 
of their faith), the former one having been lately 
displaced for his too close sympathy with the old 
Mussulman party. This evidently rather ruffled 
him : " Why do you ask me that ? You must have 
some reason. I cannot tell you: I do not know 
him. All I can tell you of him is, that, before he 
was appointed, the lightning of God fell upon his 
house." We naturally got upon the war, of which 
his view is as follows. " Nimrod was formerly a 
great conqueror ; but God defeated him by the hands 
of Abraham, to whom be blessing for ever! He was 
devoured by worms, and perished miserably: so it 
will be with the Emperor Nicholas." 

I came for a couple of nights to Therapia, but alas ! 
we have got chill mists again from our friend the Black 
Sea. I dined at M, Pettler's excellent table-d'hote, 
and drank tea with Lady Emily Dundas, with some 
English and French captains 5 wives. The lady of 
the Descartes steamer makes piteous complaints that 
it never gets out of order, and, consequently, is never 
sent dow T n for any repair : she is nourishing a hope 
that it may be soon sent for coals., and that there will 
probably be none to be had in Constantinople, I 



328 



THERAPIA, 



am again put up at a small lodging-house near the 
hotels neat and clean, but to-night very cold. I trust 
that I am safe from another small-pox. 

April 19th. — Brilliant but keen day. I went over 
the hospital for our fleet established here in a house 
put at our disposal by the Sultan. A good deal of 
repair was necessary ; but the rooms are spacious and 
airy, in full possession of all the breezes of the Bos- 
phorus, which, as the summer advances, will be very 
salutary. There are now about forty men there; 
they will soon have a hundred and fifty beds, against 
the contingencies of the war. The arrangements 
seemed very good and careful. I thought I knew 
all the walks of the place ; but I found a very pretty 
one which was new to me on a wooded hill, imme- 
diately behind Buyukdere, full of broad grassy glades 
under cypresses and pines : it must have been •for- 
merly some great garden, as there are fragments of 
fountains and flights of stone steps. From the 
summit the Black Sea and Bosphorus had put on 
once more all their blue sparkles. After the hotel 
dinner, drank tea with the Skenes. 

April 20th. — Walked in the garden of the French 
Palace : it is perfectly inlaid with violets and prim- 
roses, but generally the vegetation is far behind that 
of England at this period. Steamed to Constanti- 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



329 



nople; the dear old Bosphorus was very brilliant, 
and I suppose I shall now really not see it again. 
Count Ladislas Zamoyski called on me. He is in 
hopes of organising a Polish Legion ; but finds, like 
others, that matters move slowly in Turkey. I walked 
through the old quarter of the Fanar, and then on 
the breezy hills beyond Pera. Dined at the Em- 
bassy ; there were some Turks, Greeks, and foreign 
consuls, but no great notability. I had a good deal 
of talk afterwards with Percy Smythe, who is always 
full of knowledge and genius. 

April 21st — Crossed over to Scutari with some 
officers of the engineers * to see a brigade drill of the 
six English regiments which have already arrived 
there ; General Adams was the officer in command. 
The day was very brilliant ; and, consequently, the 
effect of the gleaming uniforms and bayonets on the 
fine plain, commanding, perhaps, the best view of 
Constantinople, was very striking : there was a con- 
siderable number of Turkish and Frank spectators, 
some few Bachi-bazouks, or irregular cavalry, who 
cut a miserable figure with their tawdry accoutre- 
ments and lank horses, and certainly Asia was very 
disadvantageously confronted with Europe on this 

* One of these was the brave, frank-hearted, lamented Burke, 
who found so gory a grave on the left bank of the Danube. 



330 



CONSTANTINOPLE, 



occasion. It was a new and suggestive sight to see 
the English columns march by, with their bands 
playing opposite old Stamboul, and just under the 
green fringe of the cypresses in the burial-ground 
at Scutari. Our soldiers are said to obtain much 
credit for their orderly behaviour in the town. An 
officer was asked how he was going to cross over 
to Constantinople. "In a tchibouque," he an- 
swered ; mistaking the only Turkish word he knew 
for a caique. Dr. Sandwith dined with me, and 
we went together to drink tea with Count Ladislas 
Zamoyski and his young wife, whose cheerfulness 
bore the hard test of confined lodgings in a narrow 
lane of Pera most triumphantly. 

April 22nd. — I went with Dr. S. to the bazaars; 
we then went for our luncheon to a Turkish, not 
kibaub, but cook-shop, where different ragouts of 
meat and vegetables are always ready in large pans. 
I think the nation has a decided turn for cookery : 
Ave took our narghiles at the coffee-house, mainly 
frequented by Arabians and pilgrims from Mecca. 
My companion piques himself on knowing all the 
eastern races at the first glance ; I put him to the 
test with a beggar from Bokhara, and he turned out 
to be quite right. If any one wants to know what 
an old Arab is like, let him look at the head of 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



331 



Caiaphas, in the Duke of Sutherland's excellent 
picture by Honthorst : the young and well-looking 
are like Sir Frederick Thesiger. While sitting 
among these swarthy and turbaned heads, one is 
struck at seeing English officers passing up the street 
in their red shell-jackets. Some of the old Turks are 
supposed not at all to fancy the allied occupation : one 
asked the other day why the English flag was not 
displayed on the barrack we occupy at Scutari: 
cs Because it is not our property, but the Sultan's." 
" Oh ! it is very kind in you to say so." They were 
much surprised to see the arrival of the soldiers' 
wives, of whom a limited number is allowed to each 
regiment. " We thought the English had come here 
to fight, but they have brought their hareems." 
Others were heard to say of the troops, " Why 
these are all boys and girls — they have no beards ! " 
Dined at the hotel ; read the last batch of papers. 

April 23rd, — Some had to leave church from 
want of place in the small room ; this cries out in- 
creasingly for remedy. Lunched with the Baltazzis. 
Walked with Dr. Sandwith to the great Frank 
burial-ground, which is the oddly-selected place for 
the Greeks and Armenians to hold high holiday in, 
this being their Easter Sunday. There were booths, 
jugglers, stilt-walkers, and other appurtenances of 



332 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



our old Bartholomew or Brook Green fairs. An oc- 
casional guard of Turkish soldiers filed about in the 
midst, as in the market-scene in u Massaniello ; " but 
I cannot say that the Christians looked at all like an 
oppressed race : some were dancing the Romaica, 
but, as at Athens, without any women. We had 
our narghiles in front of a very frequented coffee- 
house overhanging the Bosphorus, and the whole 
scene was gay and picturesque. The weather, 
which has become very fine for the last three days, 
was to-day quite sultry. It is the first Easter at 
which the Greeks have forborne from a continuous 
discharge of guns and pistols, and also from the sport 
of baiting the Jews. Lord Stratford most laudably 
exerted his influence with the Greek Patriarch to 
this end. Dined at the Embassy ; Captain Hardinge 
was there — a fine young fellow. There is mingled 
news from Greece : Grivas has been defeated in the 
mountain-pass between Thessaly and Epirus ; but 
3000 insurgents have landed within sixteen miles of 
Salonica. 

April 24:th. — I took my last Turkish bath before 
leaving Constantinople. I am now really off in 
earnest on my way home ; and if it was not for all 
that word includes, I should be very reluctant to 
leave these bright shores, especially when every 



CONSTANTINOPLE. 



333 



moment adds to their immediate interest and anima- 
tion : if the packets had even allowed of my being 
here one day longer, I might have gone to-night to 
the great state ball, given by the Austrian Ambas- 
sador in honour of the Emperor's marriage, and to- 
morrow morning to a fuller review of the English 
troops before the Seraskier. "What odd places our 
guardsmen turn up from ! To-day one arrived from 
the Seventh Cataract in time to join his regiment here. 
The studs of Lord Raglan and the Duke of Cam- 
bridge have arrived, but not the Generals. In Dr. 
Sandwith I take leave of a real friend, for whom my 
respect and regard have gone on culminating since 
the first moment of acquaintance. I set off a little 
before sunset in the Austrian steam-packet, Impera- 
tore, gaily rigged with flags for its august name- 
sake's marriage to-day. 

April 25tL — I do not purpose to dwell on my 
oft-repeated iEgean passage ; but when we were off 
Gallipoli, with its now encamped hills, this morning, 
I was delighted to see our excellent Consul, Calvert, 
come on board : I imagine he has rendered the most 
indefatigable and efficient service to our troops, and 
promoted their harmonious co-operation with the 
French, which has hitherto been very complete. I 
hear that English and French, Highlander and 



334 



SMYRNA, 



Zouave, are frequently seen, not only hand in hand, 
but arm round neck; though, I fear, this must ge- 
nerally be in more convivial hours. We dropped 
Mr. C. at the town of the Dardanelles. 

April 26th. — During our morning halt at Smyrna 
I paid ten visits, which prove how my Levantine 
acquaintance has gathered. I was delighted to 
meet young Blunt, of Rhodian memory. They an- 
ticipate here considerable distress from scarcity of 
grain. The country is pretty well cleared of robbers ; 
Yani Katergi still in prison ; but a shepherd lad in 
the service of M. Van Lennep was seen lately enter- 
ing the town with a bag ; he was asked what was in 
it ; 66 A present for the Pasha." This turned out to 
be the heads of two robbers, successors of Yani, 
which he had very gallantly secured and brought off 
by himself. The weather, as I have always found it 
here, was delightful. We brought away the Greek 
consul, and other Greeks of the present dispersion. 

April 27th. — Repeated the day of quarantine at 
Syra. The Consul sent me newspapers. He told 
me from his boat that 3000 sailors are out of em- 
ployment there. 

April 28th. — Arrived in the Piraeus. The sun had 
risen in full brightness over Hymettus. We were 
released from quarantine at eleven, and I drove up 



ATHENS. 



335 



to my constant quarters with Mr. TTyse. I am very 
glad at last to find Athens basking in its own clear 
skies : the Acropolis looked like a vast altar, bearing 
on its rocky tablet the choicest gems of the earth 
under the bine vault of heaven. I walked with Mr. 
Wyse to Colonus : the plain is in its best looks, with 
the dark belt of olive, then a bright fringe of fruit 
trees in leaf and blossom, and then an expanse of 
the most vivid green in the young corn. General 
Church came in the evening. 

April 29th. — Made up lee-way in newspapers. 
Walked to the Pnyx for sunset, in accordance with 
a recommendation from Sir Edmund Lyons: it is 
very fine, and perhaps better to have the Acropolis 
to look at than to look from. Mr. Hill dined with 
us; Mrs. Hill and Elizabeth of Crete came to tea. 
Their serenity of temper and conscience contrasts 
well with the stormy state of affairs. The Cretan 
young lady, long a pupil and friend of the Hills, 
would both in disposition and attainments afford the 
best reply to a theory which I have heard maintained 
elsewhere, that the Greeks may, by their intelligence 
and commercial enterprise, form a thriving commu- 
nity, just as Jews or Parsees might ; but that by their 
intense vanity, their want of the principle of cohesion, 
their dearth of the imaginative and artistic faculties, 



336 



ATHENS. 



they are unfitted to constitute a nation. The Servians 
are said to have shown much more of this aptitude. 
There are sad accounts now, on all sides, of the Greek 
proceedings on the frontier, — jealousies, insubordina- 
tion, pillage, defeat, and flight. Some who have re- 
turned here have been put into prison ; but others are 
still going out. On the evening before, the Hills 
had unwittingly taken a drive to Daphne, and there 
they found themselves in the midst of 150 men, as- 
sembled round a gorgeous new banner. The Russian 
minister arrived later to speed their departure. 

April 30th. — Went to church. In the afternoon 
with the ladies to the band. The Queen rode by, 
but did not stop. It may be surmised that she is 
not pleased with the reports from the provinces. 
Admiral Barbiere de Tinan and the French minister 
dined with us. 

May 1st — The day has been worthy of an 
Athenian May-day. I walked in the morning 
among the orchards of Colonus, and threaded the 
Cephisus for some way ; in the afternoon rode with 
Mr. "Wyse and the two attaches, to the convent 
of Cesarenyi, probably so called from being an 
imperial foundation, on the spurs of Hymettus; 
there is a pleasant fountain, and a glorious view over 
Athens, and all its beautiful setting. How true is 



CORINTH. 



337 



The thought I have already mentioned, that the 
whole landscape of Athens is like one of its own 
old tragedies, the Antigone, or CEdipus Coloneusf 
there is no superfluity of decoration, no wild 
luxuriance of vegetation ; all is exact proportion, and 
austere beauty ; the chiselled outline of hill and shore 
answers to the symmetrical structure of the plot ; the 
pale drapery of olive images the general sobriety of 
language ; the gleaming temple and towering pillar 
represent the solemn fervour and lofty aspiration of 
the choral ode. Now my reader will feel that it is 
high time for me to leave Athens. I only had to 
interpose a dinner with the Austrian minister, and 
his amiable English wife. 

May 2nd. — Started at six from the Pirasus in the 
Austrian steamer, arrived at ten at Calimaki, at the 
head of the Saronic Gulf. I rode with an agreeable 
English fellow-passenger across the Isthmus to 
Corinth, now a very homely village, with a few signs 
of improvement; there are some striking pillars of 
an old temple, of far ruder structure than the 
Parthenon, and probably one of the oldest remains 
of Greek worship extant. We rode to the top of 
the celebrated Acropolis, the Acro-Corinthus, from 
which the view of both gulfs is very noble ; on the 
western side snowy Helicon, and snowier Parnassus 

z 



338 



PAT R AS. 



succeeded each other. We rejoined another Aus- 
trian steamer at Lutraki, at the head of the Gulf of 
Corinth or Lepanto, and set off again soon after 
sunset. I found I was in an old acquaintance, the 
Persia, in which I came last year from Galatz to 
Constantinople. 

May 3rd. — It was provoking to pass all the fine 
scenery of the gulf in the dark. Morning found us 
off Patras, where the steamer stops eight hours. 1 
landed early, and got to a height : the scenery is 
fine ; the gulf widens, after passing the narrow 
strait between two castles, the old Rhium and 
Anti-Rhium, scene of many an old naval conflict, 
before the Christian glories of Lepanto ; all the near 
ground is one vast growth of currants, unhappily a 
failing crop for the last two years, which has been 
the cause of very wide distress, and it is feared that 
there are symptoms of disease again beginning to be 
apparent. This seems to be one of the analogies 
with the mysterious potato blight. I called on the 
Consul, Mr. Wood, who gave me breakfast, walked 
about with me, and was most obliging. It is a well- 
built place, and rather put me in mind of a young 
American town ; almost the whole has been built 
since the war of independence. Many of the insur- 
gents had returned since their defeat at Peta ; they 



CORFU. 



339 



were very ill received by their countrymen on shore, 
with reproaches, and even blows, to all which they 
very naturally replied, " Go and see how you like it 
yourselves, with nothing whatever to be got to eat." 
The allies are in extremely bad odour here : there 
was a French brig of war, the Mercure, to prevent 
volunteers from passing over from the Morea; and 
while I was there, our Modeste came in. We 
stopped off Missolonghi, which, however, can only be 
approached at a distance of five miles, to put down 
General Spiro Milios, ex-Minister of War at 
Athens, who is sent on a mission by the King, 
probably to revive the drooping insurrection. I 
thought it tantalising only to be at Zante, the Jior di 
Levante, in the dark. 

May 4th. — We had a fine afternoon, though 
rather a rougher sea for our arrival at Corfu. It 
will be remembered how much I had appreciated 
this island in its wintry garb, with no leaves out but 
the pale olive; but as I found it now, under the 
balmy breath of its spring, one mass of roses, 
geraniums, and orange-blossoms, I need not say that 
all its charms were incredibly heightened. I found 
again the kindest possible welcome at the Palace. 

May 5 th. — Walked to the Casino, where the 
garden is in full luxuriance. Rode in the afternoon 

Z 2 



340 



CORFU. 



with my friend Creyke and Captain Butler, among 
the olive groves and summit ranges, which make 
delightful scampering ground. The young green of 
the chestnuts is very lovely, the figs look already 
bursting into ripeness,, and every group of peasants 
under their vine treillage is like a decoration in a 
ballet. 

May 6th. — Walked before breakfast to the Temple 
of Neptune. While still on that peerless green 
promontory, I heard the salutes which announced 
the arrival of the Duke of Cambridge, on his way 
from Trieste to Constantinople. He came to the 
palace for breakfast ; his account of his recent visits 
to Paris and Vienna were very interesting and very 
satisfactory. There was a levee afterwards, very 
well attended both by the islanders and the garrison. 
The Duke resided here for above two years in 
command of the garrison under Lord Seaton, and 
was justly much of a favourite. There was a large 
dinner at the palace ; the Lord High Commissioner 
gave the Duke's health, the Duke the Emperor 
Napoleon's, I the Emperor of Austria's, which two 
last were acknowledged by the respective Consuls. 
There was an assembly afterwards ; the house and, 
indeed, the whole island admirably lent themselves 
to any festal purpose ; and nothing can be better 



THE ADRIATIC. 



341 



organised than Sir Henry's establishment. I accom- 
panied him in his barge to put the Duke on board 
the Caradoc shortly before midnight. 

May 7 th. — Walked to the One-gun battery, that I 
might take away the last impression of beauty from 
this favoured island. After church I embarked on 
board the Austrian steamer Calcutta, which belongs 
to their Trieste and Alexandria line. It is a very 
quick vessel. There are some passengers from India 
on board, including young Lord Henry Scott, in whom 
I found a very pleasing fellow-Borderer. 

May 8 th. — Rather a rough sea during the night ; 
but we seemed to average about eleven miles an hour 
against a contrary wind. Opposite Eagusa in the 
morning ; in the evening we passed some well-shaped 
islands ; among them Lissa, the scene of a naval 
conflict between the English under Captain Hoste, 
and the French and Italians. The Austrian officers 
wonder how long we and the French shall keep 
friends. We are much pleased with our ship, and 
its whole service. I had not felt aware how long a 
line of sea-shore belonged to Austria; it is very 
much her interest to work her Dalmatian elements ; 
the Lloyd's Company have lately established a line of 
steamers on the Po. On this last day of the passage, 
we had, besides the champagne usually given on that 



842 



VENICE. 



occasion, some of the Maraschino of Zara, the 
capital of Dalmatia, the great place of its production, 
opposite which we were at the moment passing. 

May 9th. — We got to Trieste at noon, after an 
excellent passage. The shore and port have a look 
of much animation, and the streets and houses near 
the shore are very handsome ; all has an awfully 
civilised look ; the Hotel de la Ville is an excellent 
house. I walked with Lord Henry and Mr. 
Stobart, a most pleasant clergyman who accompanies 
him, up some steep streets to the old Cathedral of 
St. J ustus, which has some curious ancient frescoes. 
There is a fine view from the terrace in front em- 
bracing the amphitheatre of hills round Trieste and 
the head of the Adriatic. 

May lOih. — Embarked at six for Venice; this is ' 
still part of the active service of the Austrian Lloyd's 
Company. There were several Austrian officers on 
board, with some rather pretty ladies. The passage 
lasts six hours. On first approaching Venice, I 
thought it looked like Oxford put down in the 
middle of the sea. We then threaded our intricate 
course between a quantity of ugly sandy banks, and 
at last emerged into the superb channel in front of the 
Doge's Palace, and all the objects so familiar to my 
whole life, from my dining-room of Canalettis, but 



VENICE. 



343 



which I now looked upon for the first time in their 
real presence. I mean, however, to bear steadfastly 
in mind, that I am now on thoroughly beaten ground, 
and to observe all proportionate brevity. I found 
very agreeable quarters in the Hotel cle la Ville, on 
the Grand Canal, formerly the Grassi Palace. I 
walked on the Piazza of St. Mark. I am struck 
with the beauty, the grandeur, and, above all, the 
originality of Venice. Coming from Athens so 
recently, I feel as if it had been built — almost 
purposely — to exhibit a contrast to the Par- 
thenon and the old architecture of Greece. I 
ventured to compare that to one of the old Greek 
tragedies ; if so, Venice must stand for one of the 
most brilliant modern operas, full of stage-effect, 
combination, grace, efflorescence, and splendour — all 
things but simplicity. I went into the Cathedral, 
which considerably recalled St. Sophia to me, though 
very inferior to it in majesty and effect. When by 
myself, I always find that I can pray more easily in 
Roman Catholic churches than our own; this is 
probably due to the absence of the expectant verger. 
After dinner at the table d'hote, I made a circuit in 
an open gondola, I cannot abide the close coffin in 
the middle ; whereas, if they are open, they are as 
pleasant as caiques, without the risk of being upset 

Z 4 



344 



VENICE. 



whenever your body moves. As I sat afterwards 
at my tea, there was a concert of music and singing 
from two gondolas under the windows of the hotel; 
and other gondolas came to listen and applaud, and 
the moon j nearly full, shone on the sharp angles of 
the Foscari Palace, and all looked very Italian, and 
most unlike Turkey. 

May Wth. — I took a lacquais de place, and went 
first over the Doge's Palace. I think it rather salutary 
to have the impressions one should be apt to derive 
from the gorgeous blazonry of their stirring history by 
such hands as Tintorett, Paul Veronese, and Palma, 
corrected by the view of the republican dungeons 
and torture-rooms. We then went to the Cathe- 
dral of St. Mark, and made a more leisurely survey 
of its wealth of alabaster, jasper, porphyry, and 
agate. Then we mounted the Campanile, and I did 
my best to master the geography of the town. I 
am surprised to find it so very good a place for 
walking ; indeed, though it may seem rather para- 
doxical, I am inclined to think that its water is its 
weakest point : both in colour and odour how unlike 
to the blue, clear, sparkling Bosphorus! almost as 
much as its broad even flag-stones are to the angular 
crevices of Pera. We then looked at the statues, 
Hector and Ajax, by Canova, smooth and fleshy. 



VENICE. 



345 



There was surely more of Venice than the Parthenon, 
more of the Italian opera than the Attic buskin, 
in his school. We ended our morning walk with 
the Rialto, and looked at the house of the first 
Doges, the church of the first fugitives, with the 
mark of the fish, to show that all under its size were 
to be thrown into the sea, 

Incunabula gentis. 

I am pleased to find my excellent picture of the 
Rialto still so like. My lacquais de place, Luigi 
Campioni, is a very good one : I have no deduction 
to make, but that he will call every female Roman 
bust and statue Cleopatra. I went after dinner to 
the Piazza; it is pleasant to sit in that noblest of 
precincts, eat ices, and listen to the fine Austrian 
band. I had not quite done with music, as I went 
on to the opera at the Teatro Gallo; it looked, 
to my somewhat unused eyes, a brilliant little 
theatre, and the company gave Verdi's Traviata 
very well, and at all events were enthusiastically 
applauded. 

May 12 tk. — I am not destined to find fine wea- 
ther in its most legitimate haunts ; it rained almost 
all day, and though this is the full-moon tide, it 
has never yet been brilliant. This, however, sig- 



346 



VENICE. 



nified less to-day, as it was nearly wholly devoted 
to interiors. I went to six churches ; — the Frari, 
with its monuments of Titian and Canova opposite 
each other — a high honour, indeed, for the latter: 
St. Roch, with its adjoining school, brimming with 
marble and Tintoretts: San Pantaleone, with a 
noble painted ceiling, by Fumiani : Santa Maria del 
Carmine, of imposing length : St. Sebastian, where 
one appreciates Paul Veronese as one never did 
before : the Gesuiti, rich in jasper and lapis-lazuli ; 
and then to the Academy, where there is indeed 
much to be long looked at — most and longest, of 
course, Titian's Assumption of the Virgin. Though 
mine cannot be considered to have been an artistic 
tour, yet it has been something, to begin it with 
Raphael's Madonna di San Sisto, and to close it 
with Titian's Assumption. In brilliancy of colour 
and general animation, the Titian is perhaps unsur- 
passed ; but he never reaches the divinity of Raphael. 
I admired subordinately, but very warmly, the great 
Tintorett, with the miracle of St. Mark, a large 
Pordenone, and one or two Bonifacios. It was a 
damp, rainy evening, and I was driven to have the 
stove in my sitting-room lighted. 

May 13th. — -Went to the Pisani Palace, which 
has a fine Paolo of the family, as Alexander, Darius, 



VENICE. 



347 



&c. : the church of San Salvatore, with some of 
Titian's latest pictures : the Manfrini Gallery, where 
the Ariosto of Titian and two Giorgiones are indeed 
admirable: the church of the Scalzi, the richest 
of all in marble of which it is a perfect blaze : St. 
Nicholas dei Tolentini, with a fine portico: the 
Academy again : the Palazzo Correr, with a collec- 
tion chiefly of curiosities, about which I did not 
much care : the Botanical Garden, which also might 
have been spared : the church of the Gesuiti, where 
the affluence of marble is made as tawdry and taste- 
less as the beautiful material admits; the verde- 
antique columns at the high altar are, nevertheless, 
beautiful. The luxury of the open gondola made 
all this sight-seeing much less laborious. After dinner 
went to the Piazza, and then to the Traviata with 
Lord Henry. 

May 14:th. — Service in a room of our hotel; two 
English clergymen officiating. Went again to the 
Jesuit church to see by a better light Titian's Mar- 
tyrdom of St. Lawrence : it has become very black, 
but it appears to me admirably painted. Then to the 
Palace Vendramin, now inhabited by the Duchesse 
de Berri ; it is a pleasant house, chiefly filled with 
pictures of Bourbon dynasties. How little I like 
their expression, even including Louis XIV. ! there 



348 



VENICE. 



is generally a look either of arrogance or fatuity, 
except in the Duke of Burgundy. I went on to 
the Papadopolo Garden. My countrymen may spare 
themselves the sight of gardens at Venice. I went 
on to Palladio's two churches, the Del Redentore 
and San Giorgio, which, in comparison with most of 
the other Venetian churches, have a noble, if some- 
what bald, simplicity; then to the Maria della 
Salute, which has more picturesque effect, and is 
more abundant in paintings ; and then to St. John 
and St. Paul, rich with the tombs of twenty-two 
Doges, richer in its Titian of St. Peter Martyr. This 
is a very splendid picture. The band played in the 
Piazza in the evening : this is very pleasant, but I 
have had no bright Venetian weather. 

May 15th. — It appeared to come this morning to 
illumine my departure. I took my last row in a 
gondola to the railway station, where, after some 
processes that appear like examination and imprison- 
ment, I set off at eleven: it is a fine bridge or cause- 
way over the Lagoon. After the uncultivated wastes 
of Turkey, and the rocky slopes of Greece, the 
Venetian plain, with its continuous stripes of culti- 
vation, and its vine-trellised mulberries, looked a 
perfect garden. I was reluctantly shot past Padua 
and Vicenza ; arrived at Verona at four, and walked 



VERONA. 



349 



till dark about that fair city, which has been de- 
scribed with such happy precision in one of the 
novels of Lady Georgiana Fullerton, that I feel she 
has said enough for the family. I was taken to the 
Cathedral, the churches of San Zeno, San Fermo, 
and Santa Anastasia, which have all a kind of grand 
gloom with their Lombard towers, Byzantine portals, 
and high roofs ; to the old bridge, the house of the 
Capulets (I was glad not to be shown the doubtful 
tomb), and the noble amphitheatre, which I think 
struck me more than the Coliseum had done a long 
w^hile ago ; they both have the massive and practical 
grandeur of Roman architecture, without any of the 
delicate outline and ethereal beauty which mark that 
of Greece. An Italian play was going on in the 
area below, at which one could assist gratuitously 
from the upper benches. I went also to the Giusti 
Gardens, which command a good view of the town and 
country, and have some fine cypress alleys. I went 
to the Piazza after dinner, and had an ice there ; but 
this is far from being St. Mark's. I find the Due Torri 
a good hotel. 

May \Qth. — I observed both last night and this 
morning how many of the Austrian soldiers go to pray 
in the churches, chiefly, it seemed to me, among the 
Tyrolese. I left gentle Verona by the railroad, which 



350 



MILAN. 



has a beautiful coasting bit by the Lago di Garda. 
There is an unpleasant interval of diligence or postings 
which occupies four hours, and it was not improved 
by hard rain. We got some rough fare in the kitchen 
of a station-house at Treviglio, and arrived at Milan 
about eight. I put up at the fine Hotel de la Ville. 

May 11 th. — It is, alas! thirty-one years since I 
was at Milan. I found that I remembered well its 
handsome and capital-like appearance, and especially 
its imposing Cathedral. I am aware that this has 
many anomalies and incongruities ; but I hardly 
know a more poetical building — so sparkling with- 
out — so solemn within: there surely is no church 
which so unites the rich material and gorgeous glow 
of the South with the dim shadows and awful gloom 
of the North. The exterior, however, does not show 
well at a distance. Went to the Brera, and renewed 
my recollections of the Sposalizio and the Ballo degli 
Amori : I agree with " Murray's Handbook," and not 
with Lord Byron, in not caring for Guercino's 
" Hagar." There is a much finer head of the Saviour 
by him. Luini shines very much. I walked to 
the great triumphal arch, which Austria has finished 
since my visit. While I was there, a long thunder- 
storm came on, and the officer on guard at the gate 
gave me most courteous shelter in the guard-roomc 



COMO. 



351 



The great Scala is not open. I went for a short time 
to an Opera Buffa. 

May ISth. — Railed to Como ; then began a journey 
in a light carriage I had taken at Milan to cany me 
over the St. Gothard Pass. This was the only bit of 
the pure old aristocratic travelling I have had in all 
my journey ings, and it is, certainly, far from un- 
comfortable. We began, however, with a fractious 
horse ; and the delay enabled me, by a small devia- 
tion from the road, to get to a garden on a hill ; and 
if I had been months instead of minutes at Como, I 
do not think I could have got a more transcendant 
view of its enchanting lake. I decidedly put it at 
the head of all lakes. Killarney, I believe, stood 
highest with me before : hesitatingly, 1 preferred it 
to the Lago Maggiore; but at Como, besides the 
silver sheet and encircling mountains, and all that 
nature does for other places, you have that fringe of 
villa, portico, and garden — the sheltered port, with 
its sculptured piers and swelling dome, — in short, all 
Italy itself poured out upon every promontory, and 
decorating every slope. The whole journey to Bel- 
linzona, the rise from Lake Lugano, the descent upon 
Maggiore, make it a matchless day. 

May 19 th. — Started at six. The whole upper 
valley of the Ticino is varied, rich, and cheerful. 



352 



ST. GOTHAKD. 



The great difference between the Alpine mountain 
scenery and that of Greece is the soft drapery of 
verdure and vegetation which stretches in Italy up 
to the snow line. From Airolo — -perhaps not very 
wisely — I made the ascent up to the summit on foot. 
This did very well as long as I walked in sunlight ; 
but on the higher levels I found cloud and mist 
above, and snow under foot, and I arrived at the 
Hospice, wet, shivering, done up ; I was revived by 
the attention of two maids of the dwelling — no 
longer monks — who placed me, not by or near, but 
upon, a stove, and gave me brandy and Gruyere 
cheese : and my restoration was still more completely 
effected at a very good clean inn at the next station 
on the descent — Hopenthal. 

May 20th. — The scenery of this pass, unlike that 
of the Simplon, is much grander upon the Swiss 
side. The Devil's Bridge, and the whole descent of 
the Reuss, are surpassingly fine. The easy road, 
down which one goes full trot, bridging chasm and 
shaving precipice, and, still more, the electric tele- 
graph, following the wildest leaps of the Ticino and 
the Reuss, bear signal witness to the aggressions of 
civilisation. After a short halt at Altorf, and a due 
pilgrimage to the house of Tell, I embarked at Fluelen 
on the steamboat to Lucerne ; and, as unpoetical 



SWITZERLAND. 



353 



diligences and railways will carry me on thence, if all 
be well, through Basle and Paris to England, I will 
close these entries in sight of those Alpine barriers that 
separate the lordly North and sunny South. Around 
me, too, are the monuments of a valour and patri- 
otism as devoted and blameless as even those which 
give lustre to the plains of Marathon or Cannae. I 
do not pretend to account for it, why, with the forms 
of nature perhaps yet more grand, with the claims of 
human worth and prowess fully as illustrious, not 
unadorned by poetry and song — by the most heroic 
strains of Schiller — by the most perfect melody of 
Rossini, — still I cannot feel that either Alpine 
summits or Swiss lakes have the same charm or grace 
that float over the Alban hill, or among the gleam- 
ing Cyclades. They may pretend, however, to a 
nobler praise : the loveliness of Italy and Greece 
only serves to embalm the memory of departed 
glories ; while the courage of Tell, and the virtue of 
the Fathers of the Swiss Republic, are prolonged in 
living instances of bravery, simplicity, wisdom, and 
piety. 



THE END. 



London : 



A. and G. A. Spottiswoode, 
New-street- Square. 



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THE LIFE of NICHOLAS L, EMPEROR of RUSSIA : with 
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GLEANINGS from PICCADILLY to PERA. By John W. 

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The BALTIC ; its GATES, SHORES, and CITIES. With a 

Notice of the WHITE SEA. By the Rev. T. Milner, M.A., F.R.G.S. Post 
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RUSSIA and TURKEY. By J. R. M'Culloch, Esq. Reprinted, 

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SCHAMYL, the SULTAN, WARRIOR, and PROPHET of the 

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The RUSSIANS of the SOUTH. By Shirley Brooks. 16mo., 

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BELL'S HISTORY of RUSSIA, from the earliest Period to the 

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TRAVELS in SIBERIA. By S. S. Hill, Esq. With a large 

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GERMANY from 1760 to 1814 ; or Sketches of German Life from 

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JERRMANN'S PICTURES from ST. PETERSBURG. Trans- 
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TURKEY and CHRISTENDOM : An Historical Sketch of the 

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Boohs on Russia, fyc. 



A MONTH in the CAMP before SEBASTOPOL. By a Non- 

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MEMOIRS of a MAITRE-D'ARMES ; or, Eighteen Months at 

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A CATALOGUE 

OF 

NEW WORKS 

IN GENERAL LITERATURE, 

PUBLISHED BY 

LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, and LONGMANS, 
39, PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON. 



CLASSIFIED INDEX. 



Agriculture and Rural Affairs. 

Bayldon on Valuing Rents, etc. - - 6 
Caird's Letters on Agriculture - - 7 
Cecil's Stud Farm - - ' " " 7 
Loudon's Encyclopaedia of Agriculture - 14 
Self-Instruction for Farmers, etc. 14 
, (Mrs.) Lady's Country Companion 14 
Low's Elements of Agriculture - -15 
„ Domesticated Animals - - - '* 

Arts, Manufactures, and 
Architecture. 

Bourne's Catechism of the Steam Engine 6 
,, On the Screw Propeller - - 6 
Brande's Dictionary of Science, etc. - b 
Chevreul on Colour " ° 

Cresy's Eucvclo. of Civil Engineering - 8 
Eastlake on Oil Painting - - - 
Gwilt's Encyclopaedia of Architecture - 
Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art - 

Commonplace Book 
Loudon's Rural Architecture - 
Moseley's Engineering and Architecture 
Richardson's Art of Horsemanship - 
Steam Engine, by the Artisan Club 
Tate on Strength of Materials 
Ure's Dictionary of Arts, etc. 

Biography. 

Bodenstedt and "Wagner's Schamyl 
Brightwell's Memorials of Opie 
Bunsen's Hippolytus - 
Chesterton's Autobiography - 
Clinton's (Fynes) Autobiography - 
Cockayne's Marshal Turenne - 
Freeman's Life of Kirby - - - 
Haydon's Autobiography, by Taylor 
Holcroft's Memoirs - 
Holland's (Lord) Memoirs 
Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia 
Maunder's Biographical Treasury - 
Memoir of the Duke of Wellington 
Memoirs of James Montgomery 
Merivale's Memoirs of Cicero 
Russell's Memoirs of Moore - 



Pages 

Russell's Life of Lord William Russell - 19 
Southey's Life of Wesley - 

,, Life and Correspondence 
Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 
Taylor's Loyola - - 

,, Wesley - 
Townsend's Eminent Judges - 
Waterton's Autobiography and Essays - 



Books of General Utility. 

Acton's Modern Cookery Book 
Black's Treatise on Brewing - 
Cabinet Gazetteer - 
,, Lawyer - - - - 
Cust's Invalid's Own Book 
Hints on Etiquette - ~ 
Hudson's Executor's Guide 
„ On Making Wills 
Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia - 
Loudon's Self Instruction 
,, Lady's Companion 
,, (Mrs.) Amateur Gardener 
Maunder's Treasury of Knowledge 

Biographical Treasury 

Scientific Treasury 

Treasury of History 

Natural History 
Pocket and the Stud - 
Pycroft's English Reading 
Reece's Medical Guide - 
Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary 
Riddle's Latin Dictionaries 
Richardson's Art of Horsemanship 
Roget's English Thesaurus • 
Rowton's Debater - - - - 
Short Whist - - - - - 
Thomson's Interest Tables 
Traveller's Library - 
Webster's Domestic Economy 
VVillich's Popular Tables 
Wilmot's Abridgment of Blackstone 
Commentaries - - - - 



Botany and Gardening. 

Conversations on Botany - 
Hooker's British Flora - 

Guide to Kew Gardens 



10 
10 



London: Printed by M. Mason, Ivy Lane, Paternoster Row., 



2 



CLASSIFIED INDEX. 



Pages 

Lindley's Introduction to Botany - - 14 

Theory of Horticulture - - 12 

Loudon's Hortus Britannicus - - 14 

(Mrs.) Amateur Gardener - 14 

Self-Instruction for Gardeners 14 

,, Encyclopaedia of Trees & Shrubs 14 

Gardening - 14 

„ ,, Plants - • 14 

Rivers's Rose Amateur's Guide - - 19 



Chronology. 

Blair's Chronological Tables - 
Bunsen's Ancient Egypt - 
Haydn's Beatson's Index - 
Nicolas's Chronology of History 



Commerce and Mercantile 
Affairs. 

Atkinson's Shipping Laws 5 

Francis On Life Assurance - - - 9 
Loch's Sailor's Guide "-'"}? 
Lorimer's Letters to aYoungMaster Mariner 14 

M'Culloch's Commerce and Navigation - 15 

Thomson's Interest Tables - - - 22 

Criticism, History, and 
Memoirs. 

Austin's Germany 5 

Balfour's Sketches of Literature 5 

Blair's Chron. and Historical Tables - 6 

Bunsen's Ancient Egypt » 7 

„ Hippolytus 7 

Burton's History of Scotland - " 7 

Chalybaeus's Speculative Philosophy - 8 

Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul 8 

Eastlake's History of Oil Painting - 8 

Erskine's History of India 9 

Francis's Annals of Life Assurance - 9 
Gleig's Leipsic Campaign - 
Gurney's Historical Sketches - 
Hamilton's Discussions in Philosophy, etc. 
Hay don's Autobiography, by Taylor 



tlolland's (Lord) Foreign Reminiscences 

,, „ Whig Party - 

Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions 
Kemble's Anglo-Saxons in England 
Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia 
Macaulay's Crit. and Hist. Essays - • 

„ History of England 

,, Speeches - 
Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works 

History of England 
M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary 
Martineau's Church History - 
Maunder's Treasury of History 
Memoir of the Duke of Wellington 
Merivale's History of Rome - 
Roman Republic - 
Milner's Church History - 
Moore's (Thomas) Memoirs, etc. - 
M ure's Greek Literature - 
Ranke's Ferdinand and Maximilian - 
Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary - 
Riddle's Latin Dictionaries 
Rogers's Essays from Edinburgh Review 
Roget's English Thesaurus ... 
Russell's (I. ady Rachel) Letters 

Life of Lord William Russell - 
St. John's Indiau Archipelago 
Schmitz's History of Greece - 



Page 

Smith's Sacred Annals - 
Southey'sThe Doctor etc. - 
Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 

,, Lectures on French History - 
Sydney Smith's Works *" 
Select Works 
Lectures on Moral Philosophy 
Taylor's Loyola - 

,, Wesley - 
Thirhvall's History of Greece - 
Townsend's State Trials - 
Turkey and Christendom - 
Turner's Anglo-Saxons - 

Middle Ages - - - - 

,, Sacred History of the World - 
Zumpt's Latin Grammar - 



Geography and Atlases. 

Butler's Geography and Atlases 7 
Cabinet Gazetteer - - 7 

^ •— - 23 

9 
2o 
12 
12 
15 
'23 
16 
18 



Durrieu's Morocco 
Hall's Large Library Atlas 
Hughes's Australian Colonies - 
Jesse's Russia and the War - 
Johnston's General Gazetteer 
M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary 

Russia and Turkey 
Milner's Baltic Sea 
Murray's Encyclopaedia of Geography 
Sharp's British Gazetteer 
Wheeler's Geography of Herodotus 

Juvenile Books. 

Amy Herbert 20 

Corner's Children's Sunday Book 8 

Earl'* Daughter (The) - 20 

Experience of Life ----- 20 

Gertrude ------ 20 

Howitt's Boy's Country Book - - - 11 

,, (Marv) Children's Year - - 11 

Katharine Astiton ----- 20 

Lady Una and her Queendom - - - 12 

Laneton Parsonage - - - - 20 

Mrs. Marcet's Conversations - - 15 & 16 

Margaret Percival - - - - - 20 

Pycroft's English Reading - - 19 

Medicine and Surgery, 

Bull's Hints to Mothers 

Management of Children 
Copland's Dictionary of Medicine - 
Cust's Invalid's Own Book 
Holland's Mental Physiology - - - 10 
Latham On Diseases of the Heart - - 12 
Little on Treatment of Deformities - 14 
Moore On Health, Disease, and Remedy - 17 
Pereira On Food and Diet - - - 18 
Psychological Inquiries - - - - 18 
Reece's Medical Guide - - - - 19 



Miscellaneous and General 
Literature. 

Atkinson's Sheriff Law 5 
Austin's Sketches of German Life - 5 
Carlisle's Lectures and Addresses - 
Chalybaeus's Speculative Philosophy 
Defence of Eclipse of Faith - 
Eclipse of Faith - 
Greg's Essays on Political and Social 
Science - 



to Messrs. LONGMAN and Co.'s CATALOGUE. 



S 



Pages 

Haydn's Book of Dignities - - - 10 

Hole's Essav on Mechanics' Institutions 10 

Holland's Mental Physiology - 10 

Hooker's Kew Guide - - - - 10 

Howitt's Rural Life of England - - 11 

Visits to Remarkable Places - 11 

Jameson's Commonplace Book - - 12 

Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions - - 12 

Last of the Old Squires - - - - 18 

Loudon's Lady's Country Companion - 14 

Macaulay's Critical and Historical Essays 15 

Speeches - - 15 
Mackintosh's (Sir J.) Miscellaneous Works 15 

Memoirs of a Maitre d'Armes • - 23 

Maitland's Church in the Catacombs » 16 

Pascal's Works, bv Pearce - - 18 

Pycroft's English Reading - - 19 

Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary - 19 

Riddle's Latin Dictionaries - - - 19 

Rowton's Debater ----- l9 

Seaward 's Narrative of his Shipwreck - 20 

Sir Roger De Coverlev - - 21 

Smith's (Rev. Sydney) Works - - 21 

Southey's Common-Place Books - - 21 

The Doctor etc. - 23 

Souvestre's Attic Philosopher - - 23 

Confessions of a Working Man 23 

Stephen's Essays - 21 

Stow's Training System - - - 21 

Thomson's Outline of the Laws of Thought 22 

Townsend's State Trials - - - - 22 

Willich 's Popular Tales - - - 24 

Yonge's English Greek Lexicon - - 24 

,, Latin Gradus - - - 24 

Zumpt's Latin Grammar - - 24 

Natural History in General. 

Catlow's Popular Conchology - 
Ephemera and Young on the Salmon 
Gosse's Natural History of Jamaica 

Kemp's Natural History of Creation - 23 

Kirby and Spence's Entomology - - 12 
Lee's Elements of Natural History 
Maunder's Treasury of Natural History 
Turton's Shells of the Britishlslands 

sVaterton's Essays on Natural History - 24 

Youatt's The Dog ----- 24 

The Horse - -24 

1-Volume Encyclopaedias and 
Dictionaries. 

Blaine's Rural Sports - 
3rande's Science, Literature, and Art 
Copland's Dictionary of Medicine - 
Cresy's Civil Engineering 
Gwilt's Architecture - 

Johnston's Geographical Dictionary - 12 

Loudon's Agriculture - - - - 14 

Rural Architecture 

Gardening - 

Plants - 

Trees and Shrubs - 14 

M'Culloeh's Geographical Dictionary - 15 

Dictionary of Commerce - 15 

Murray's Encyclopzedia of Geography - 17 

Sharp's British Gazetteer - . - 20 

Ure's Dictionary of Arts, etc.- - - 24 

Webster'sDomestic Economy - - 24 



I Pages 

j Calvert's Wife's Manual 7 

I Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul 8 

Corner's Sunday Book 8 

Dale's Domestic Liturgy 8 

Defence of Eclipse of Faith - 9 

Discipline ...... g 

Earl's Daughter (The) - 20 
Eclipse of Faith 

Englishman's Greek Concordance - 9 

,, Heb. and Chald. Concord. 9 

Experience of Life (The) - - - 20 

Gertrude - ----- 20 

Harrison's Light of the Forge - - ]0 

Hook's (Dr.) Lectures on Passion Week [q 

Home's Introduction to Scriptures - u 

Abridgment of ditto - - H 

Hulbert on Job - * - " 11 

Jameson's Sacred Legends - - - 11 

Monastic Legends - - • 11 

Legends of the Madonna - n 

Jeremy Taylor's Works - - - - 12 

Katharine Ashton - - - - - 20 

Kippis's Hymns ----- 12 

Lady Una and her Queendom - - 12 

Laneton Parsonage ----- 20 

Letters to My Unknown Friends - - 12 

on Happiness - - - - 12 

Litton's Church of Christ - 14 

Maitland's Church in the Catacombs - 15 

Margaret Percival - - - - 20 

Martineau's Church History - - - 16 

Milner's Church of Christ - - - 16 

Montgomery's Original Hymns - - 16 

Moore On the Use of the Body - - 17 

f, Soul and Body - - 17 

„ 's Man and his Motives - - 17 

Mormonism - - - - - 23 

Neale's Closing Scene - - - - 18 

Resting Places of the Just - - 17 

„ Riches that bring no Sorrow - 17 

Risen from the Ranks - - - 17 

Newman's (J. H.) Discourses - . - 18 

Ranke's Ferdinand and Maximilian - 23 

Readings for Lent - - - - 20 

Confirmation - . - 20 
Robinson's Lexicon to the Greek Testa- 
ment ------ 19 

Saints our Example - - - - 20 

Self- Denial ------ 20 

Sermon on the Mount - - - - 20 

»> illuminated - - 20 

Sinclair's Journey of Life - - 21 

Smith's (Sydney) Moral Philosophy - 21 

(G.) Sacred Annals - - - 21 

Southey's Life of Wesley - - - 21 

Stephen's (Sir J.) Ecclesiastical Biography 21 

Taylor's Loyola _ 22 

Wesley - - - - - 22 

Theologia Germanica - - - 22 

Thumb Bible (The) - 22 

Turner's Sacred History - - - 22 



Religious and Moral Works. 

Amy Herbert ------ 20 

Atkinson on the Church 5 

Bloomfield's Greek Testaments 6 

Annotations on ditto - - 6 



Poetry and the Drama. 



Arnold's Poems - - - 

Aikin's (Dr.) BritishPoets 

Baillie's (Joanna) Poetical Works - 

Barter's Iliad of Homer - 

Bode's Ballads from Herodotus 

Calvert's Wife's Manual 

Flowers and their Kindred Thoughts 

Goldsmith's Poems, illustrated 

Kent's Aletheia .... 

Kippis's Hymns - 

L. E. L.'s Poetical Works 



CLASSIFIED INDEX. 



Pages 



Linwood's Anthologia Oxoniensis - - 14 

Macaulay's Lays of Ancient Rome • - 15 

Montgomery's Poetical Works - - 16 

Original Hymns - - 16 

Moore's Poetical Works - - - - 17 

LallaRookh - ... 17 

Irish Melodies - - • 17 

Songs and Ballads - - - 17 

Shakspeare, by Bowdler - - - - 20 

,, 's Sentiments and Similes - 11 
Southey's Poetical Works -» -21 

,, British Poets - - - - 21 

Thomson's Seasons, illustrated - - 22 

Thornton's Zohrab ----- 22 

Watts's Lyrics of the Heart » - 24 

Political Economy & Statistics. 

Banfield's Statistical Companion 6 

Caird's Letters on Agriculture - «• 7 

Francis on Life Assurance 9 
Greg's Essays on Political and Social 

Science ----- _ 9 
Laing's Notes of a Traveller - - 12 & 23 

M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary - 15 

Dictionary of Commerce - 15 

London - - 23 

Statistics of the British Empire 15 

Marcet's Political Economy - ? - 16 

Willich's Popular Tables - 24 

The Sciences in General and 
Mathematics, 

Bourne's Catechism of the Steam Engine 6 

„ on the Screw Propeller - - 6 

Brande's Dictionary of Science, etc. - 6 
Lectures on Organic Chemistry 6 

Cresy's Civil Engineering 8 

DelaBeche's Geology of Cornwall, etc. 8 

,, 's Geological Observer - - 8 

De la Rive's Electricity 8 

Faraday's Non-Metallic Elements - - 9 

Fullom's Marvels of Science 9 

Herschel's Outlines of Astronomy - - 10 

Holland's Mental Physiology - - 10 

Humboldt's Aspects of Nature - - 11 

,, Cosmos - - H 

Hunt's Researches on Light - - - 11 

Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopajdia - - 13 
Marcet's (Mrs.) Conversations - 15 & 16 

Moseley's Engineering and Architecture 17 

Owen's Lectures on Comparative Anatomy 18 

Our Coal Fields and our Coal Pits - - 23 

Peschel's Elements of Physics - - 18 

Phillips's Fossils of Cornwall, etc. - 18 

Mineralogy - - - - IS 

„ Guide to Geology - - - 18 

Portlock's Geology of Londonderry - 18 

Smee's Electro-Metallurgy - - - 2! 

Steam Engine, by the Artisan Club - 6 

Tate on Strength of Materials - - 22 
Todd's Tables of Circles " - - .22 
Wilson's Electricity and the Electric 

Telegraph ----- 23 

Rural Sports/ 

Baker's Rifle and Hound in Ceylon » 5 

Berkeley's Reminiscences - - 6 

Blaine's Dictionary ot Sports 6 

Cecil's Stable Practice - - - 8 

Records of the Chase « - .7 



Cecil's Stud Farm - - - - - 7 

The Cricket Field ----- 8 

Ephemera on Angling 9 

„ 's Book of the Salmon - - 9 

The Hunting Field - - - - 10 

Loudon's Lady's Country Companion - 14 

Pocket and the Stud - - - - 10 

Practical Horsemanship - « - - 10 

Pulman's Fly-Fishing - - - - 19 

Richardson's Horsemanship - ■ - 19 

St John's Sporting Rambles - - 19 

Stable Talk and Table Talk - 10 

Stonehenge on the Greyhound - - 22 

The Stud, for Practical Purposes - - 10 



Veterinary Medicine, etc. 

Cecil's Stable Practice 8 

„ Stud Farm ----- 7 

The Hunting Field ----- 10 
Morton's Veterinary Pharmacy - "17 

Pocket and the Stud - 10 

Practical Horsemanship - - - - 10 

Richardson's Horsemanship - - - 19 

Stable Talk and Table Talk - - 10 

The Stud for Practical Purposes - - 10 

Youatt's The Dog - - - - 24 

„ The Horse - 24 



Voyages and Travels- 
Baker's Rifle and Hound in Ceylon - 5 
Barrow's Continental Tour - - 23 
Carlisle's Turkey and Greece 7 
De Custine's Russia - - - 23 

Eothen - 23 

Ferguson's Swiss Men and Mountains - 23 

Forester and Biddulph's Norway 9 

Gironiere's Philippines - - - • 23 

Hill's Travels in Siberia * 10 

Hope's Brittany and the Bible - - • 23 

„ Chase in Brittany - - - 23 

Howitt's Art Student in Munich . - 11 

Hue's Tartary, Thibet, and China - - 23 

Hughes's Australian Colonies - - - 23 

Humbley's Indian Journal - ' - - 11 

Humboldt's Aspects of Nature - - 11 

Jameson's Canada -j - 23 

Jerrmann's Pictures from St. Petersburg 23 

Laing's Norway - - - - - 23 

Notes of a Traveller - - 12 & 23 

Macintosh's Turkey and Black Sea - - 15 

Oldmixon's Piccadilly to Peru - » - 18 

Osborn's Arctic Journal - 18 

Peel's Nubian Desert - - - - 18 

Pfeiffer's Voyage round the World - - 23 

Power's New Zealand Sketches - - 18 

Richardson's Arctic Boat Voyage - - 19 

Seaward's Narrative of his Shipwreck - 20 

St. John's (H.) Indian Archipelago - 19 

„ (J.A.)Isis . 19 

>t There and Back again 20 

„ (Hon. F.) Rambles - 19 

Sutherland's Arctic Voyage - - 22 

Traveller's Library - . - - 23 

Werne's African Wanderings - - - 23 



Works of Tiction. 

Arnold's Oakfield - .... 5 

Lady Willoughby's Diary - - 24 

Macdonald's Villa Verocchio - - 15 

Sir Roger De Coverley - - - - 21 

Southey's The Doctor etc. - - - 21 



' ALPHABETICAL CATALOGUE 

OF 

NEW WORKS AND NEW EDITIONS 

PUBLISHED BY 

Messrs. LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, and LONGMANS, 

PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON, 



Miss Acton's Modern Cookery- 

Book.— Modern Cookery in all its Branches, 
reduced to a System of Easy Practice. _ For 
the use of Private Families. In a Series of 
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tested, and are given with the most minute 
exactness. By Eliza Acton. New Edition; 
with various Additions, Plates and Wood- 
cuts. Fcp. 8vo. price 7«» 6rf. 



Ai£in. — Select Works of the 

British Poets, from Ben Jonson to Beattie. 
With Biographical and Critical Prefaces by 
Dr. Aikin. NewEditiou, with Supplement 
by Lucy Aikin ; consisting of additional 
Selections, from more recent Poets. 8vo. 
p.rice= 18«. 

Arnold.— Poems, By Matthew 

Arnold. Second Edition. Fcp. 8vo. price 
6s. 6d. 



Arnold. — Oakfield 5 or, Fellow- 
ship in the East. By W. D. Arnold, 
Lieutenant 58th Regiment, Bengal Native 
Infantry. The Second Edition, revised. 
2 vols, post 8vo. price 21a. 

Atkinson, «J.)— Sheriffs Law; or, 

a Practical Treatise on the Office of Sheriff, 
Undersheriff, Bailiffs, etc.: Their Duties at 
the Election of Members of Parliament and 
Coroners, Assizes, and Sessions of the 
Peace: Writs of Trial; Writs of Inquiry; 
Compensation Notices ; Interpleader ; 
Writs; Warrants; Returns; Bills of Sale; 
Bonds of Indemnity, etc. By George 
Atkinson. Third Edition, revised. 8vo. 
price 10s. 6<f. 

Atkinson, (G.) — The Shipping 

Laws of the British Empire : Consisting of 
Park or Marine Assurance, and Abbott on 
Shipping. Edited by George Atkinson, 
Serjeaut-at-Law. 8vo. price 10a. 6rf. 



Atkinson, (W.) — The Church: 

An Explanation of the Meaning contained 
in the Bible; shewing the Ancient, Con 
tinued, and Prevailing Error of Man, the 
Substitution of Worship for Religion : and 
shewing that the Principles of all Right 
Individual Action and of General Govern- 
ment or the Government of all Nations are 
comprised in Revealed Religion. By Wil- 
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Austin.— Germany from 1760 to 

1814; Or, Sketches of German Life from 
the Decay of the Empire to the Expulsion 
of the French. By Mrs. Austin. PostSvo. 
price 12*. 



Joanna Baillie's Dramatic and 

Poetical Works, complete in One Volume: 
Comprising the Plays of the Passions, 
Miscellaneous Dramas, Metrical Legends, 
Fugitive Pieces, (several now first pub- 
lished) , and Ahalya Baee. Second Edition, 
including a new Life of Joanna Baillie ; with 
a Portrait, and a View of Bothwell Manse. 
Square crown 8vo.21s. cloth, or 42s. bound 
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Baker.— The Rifle and the Hound 

in Ceylon. By S. W.Baker, Esq. With 
several Illustrations printed in Colours, 
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Balfour.— Sketches of English 

Literature from the Fourteenth to the 
Present Century. By Clara Lucas Bal- 
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Barter- — Homer's Iliad, trans- 
lated almost literally into the Spenserian 
Stanza ; with Notes. By W.G.T. Barter. 
8vo. price 18s. 



6 NEW WORKS and NEW EDITIONS 



Banfield.— The Statistical Com- 
panion for 1854: Exhibiting the most In- 
teresting Facts in Moral and Intellectual, 
Vital, Economical, and Political Statistics, 
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Present Time: and including the Census 
of the British Population taken in 1851. 
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Sources, by T. C. Banfield, Esq. Fcp. 
8vo. price 6s. 



Bayl&on's Art of Valuing Rents 

and Tillages, and Tenant's Right of Enter 
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several Specimens of Valuations; with 
Remarks on the Cultivation pursued on 
Soils in different Situations. Adapted to 
the Use of Landlords, Land Agents, Ap- 
praisers, Farmers, and Tenants. New 
Edition ; corrected and revised by John 
Donaldson. 8vo. 10s. 6rf. 



Berkeley.— Reminiscences of a 

Huntsman. By the Honourable Grantley 
F. Berkeley. With four Etchings by 
John Leech (one coloured). 8vo. price 14s. 



Black's Practical Treatise on 

Brewing, based on Chemical and Econo- 
mical Principles: With Formuhe for Public 
Brewers, and Instructions for Private Fami 
lies. New Edition, with Additions. 8vo. 
price 10s. 6d. 



Blaine's Encyclopaedia of Rural 

Sports; or, a complete Account, Historical, 
Practical, and Descriptive, of Hunting, 
Shooting, Fishing, Racing, and other Field 
Sports and Athletic Amusements of the 
present clay. With upwards of 600 Wood- 
cuts. A New Edition, thoroughly revised 
by Hakry Hieover, Ephemera, and Mr. 
A. Graham ; with numerous additional 
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Blair's Chronological and His- 
torical Tables, from the Creation to the 
present Time: with Additions and Cor- 
rections from the most authentic Writers ; 
including the Computation of St. Paul, as 
connecting the Period from the Exode to 
the Temple. Under the revision of Sir 
Henry Ellis, K.H. New Edition, with 
corrections. Imperial 8vo. price 31s. 6d. 



Bloomneld— The Greek Testa- 

ment : With copious English Notes, Critical, 
Philological, and Explanatory. Especially 
formed for the use of advanced Students and 
Candidates for Holy Orders. By the Rev. 
S. T. Bloomfield, D.D. F.S.A. New 
Edition. 2 vols. 8vo. with Map, price i£2. 



Dr. Bloomfield's Additional 

Annotations on the above. 8vo. price 15s. 



Dr. Bloomfield's College & School 

Greek Testament: With brief English 
Notes, chiefly Philological and Explana- 
tory. Seventh and cheaper Edition, with 
Map and Index. Fcp. 8vo. price 7s. orf. 

Dr. Bloomfield's College and 

School Lexicon to the Greek Testament. 
Fcp. 8vo. price 10s. 6d. 

Bode.— Ballads from Herodotus : 

With an Introductory Poem. By the Rev. 
J. E. Bode, M A., late Student of Christ 
Church. I6mo. price 5s. 

A Treatise on the Steam Engine, 

in its Application to Mines, Mills, Steam 
Navigation, and Railways. By the Artisan 
Club. Edited by John Bourne, C.E. 
New Edition ; with 30 Steel Plates, and 
349 Wood Engravings. 4to. price 27s. 

Bourne. — A Treatise on the 

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With £0 large Plates and numerous Wood- 
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Bourne.— A Catechism of the 

Steam Engine, illustrative of the Scientific 
Principles upon which its Operation depends, 
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Navigation, and Railways; with various 
Suggestions of Improvement. By John 
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Brande.— A Dictionary Of Sci- 
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History, Description and Scientific Prin- 
ciples of every Branch of Human Know- 
ledge ; with the Derivation and Definition 
of all the Terms in general use. Edited 
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vised ; with Woodcuts. 8vo. price 60s. 

Professor Brande's Lectures on 

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Calico-Printing, Sugar Manufacture, the 
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vered before the Members of the Royal 
Institution in the Session of 1852. Arranged 
by permission from the Lecturer's Notes by 
J. Scoffern, M.B. Fcp.8vo. [Just ready. 

Bull.— The Maternal Manage- 
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By T. Bull, M.D. New Edition, Fcap. 
8vo. price 5s. 

Dr. Bull's Hints to Mothers for 

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Fcp. price 5s. 



published by LONGMAN, BROWN, and Co. 



7 



Bunsen.— Christianity & Man- 
kind ; Their Beginnings and Prospects. 
By C.C.J. Buxsex, D.D., D.C.L., D.Ph. 
Being aNewEdition, corrected, remodelled, 
and extended, of Hippolytus and his Age. 
7 vols. 8vo. price 5/. 5s. 

*»* This Second Edition of the Hippoly- 
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Historical Section. 

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I. Hippolytus and the Teachers of the 

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Philosophical Section. 

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I. Reliquiae Literarias ; 

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III. Reliquiae Liturgicae : Cum Appen- 
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Bunsen.— Egypt's Place in Uni- 
versal History: An Historical Investigation, 
in Five Books. By C. C. J. Bunsen, D.O., 
D.C.L., D.Ph. Translated from the Ger- 
man, by C. H. Cottrell, Esq. M.A. — Vol. 
I., with many Illustrations. 8vo. price 23s. 

%* The second Volume is preparing for 
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Burton.— The History of Scot- 
land, from the Revolution to the Extinction 
of the last Jacobite Insurrection (1639— 
1748.) By John Hill Btjrton. 2vols.8vo. 
price 26s. 

Bishop Butler's General Atlas 

of Modern aud Ancient Geography ; com- 
prising Fifty-two full-coloured Maps ; with 
complete Indexes. New Edition, uearly all 
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new. Royal 4to. price 24s. half-bound. 

f The Modern Atlas, 28 full- 
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Bishop Butler's Sketch of Mo- 
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The Cabinet Gazetteer: A Popu- 
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ing the Public Acts of the Session 1353. 
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Caird.— English Agriculture in 

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By James Caird, Esq., of Baldoon, Agri- j 
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Calvert.— The Wife's Manual 5 

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Carlisle (Lord). — A Diary in 

Turkish and Greek Waters. By the Right 
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[Nearly ready. 

Catlow.— Popular Conchology$ j 

or, the Shell Cabinet arranged according i 
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Cecil. — The Stud Farm 5 or, 

Hints on Breeding Horses for the Turf- 
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Cecil.— Becords of the Chase, 

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8 NEW WOUKS and NEW EDITIONS 



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Chalybaeus's Historical Survey 

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Peace, War, and Adventure 5 

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Chevreul's Principles of Har- 
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Conybeare and Howson.— The 

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The Children's Own Sunday- 
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The Rev. T. Dale's Domestic 

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Delabeche.— Report on the Geo- 
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De la Rive.— A Treatise on Elec- 
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Discipline. By the Author of 

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Eastlake.— Materials for a His- 
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The Eclipse of Faith; or, a 

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published by LONGMAN, BROWN, and Co. 



9 



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The Englishman's Greek Con- 
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